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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The car: 1992 Volvo 960. Why??? We've had the car for about 7 years and it's sentimental. The wife bought it back when we were only dating and it's a Seattle car. That means no rust and the car has never seen very much sunlight so the paint and plastics still look showroom fresh. The transmission started acting up and we got her a VW CC, so now the car is mine to play with. Buying a new transmission lead to 50 other things to take care of while you're in there, and here I am now with almost a full restoration inside and out.

I like good sound quality and a stock appearance. The supplies:
Head unit: Nakamichi CD-45z or CD-400 (not yet purchased, if anyone has one...)
DSP: RF 3sixty.3 (not yet purchased either)
Front door speakers: CDT ES-06
Tweeter/mid hybrid: CDT ES-02
Rear deck
Sub: ???
Amps: One for the speakers up front, another for the sub and possibly rear fill later if needed
Wires: ???

Sound deadening...
Underneath the car, above transmission and driveshaft/into the firewall - Heat Wave Pro on top of Spectrum. Elsewhere the factory applied thick undercoating that does a really good job.
Inside the car and around the trunk i am following the instructions and materials used on Welcome to Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown closely.

Hopefully I got all of the newbie questions out of my system by asking around in General but I can't promise there won't be more.

At this point the interior is out except for the side pillars and headliner and I'm waiting on a sound deadening stuff to come in so I can start installing it. I need to think about cables and things pretty soon though. Here are a few pictures of what everything looks like...

Interior


Doors... new speakers will be installed on the actual door.






I bought a set of these from a '95 940 to use on top of the soundproofing layers that will be added.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
It's like Christmas over here today, the new compressor and door speakers came in the mail. Minor cutting will be needed in the door to accommodate a larger magnet and I need to make spacers to attach the speakers to. Also I removed everything that needs to go in order for the ceiling panel to come down. I'm going to leave that alone until it's time to put in deadening up there because it's too big to be removed from the car.
 

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I am looking forward to following this build seeing as I used to live in Charleston also. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am looking forward to following this build seeing as I used to live in Charleston also. :)
I'm moving faster now that the worst of the summer is finally over. I removed the transmission, drivetrain, intake and engine accessories in late spring before it got hot, then used the summer to go over the entire car to find anything that needed attention and sourced parts while it was nasty out. The only thing I don't have a lead on is a new driver's seat.

Any ideas on how to enlarge the speaker hole in the door and do a neat job of it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Updated materials list to reflect reality:

Head unit: Nakamichi CD-45z
DSP: Helix DSP
Front door (midbass): CDT ES-06
Tweeter/mid hybrid: CDT ES-02
Sub: JBL MS12SD4
Amps: Harmon Kardon CD470 (front stage), ??? (sub)

The amp, sub and DSP all came from the classifieds here, head unit from ebay and speakers new from CDT. I have so many tracking numbers floating around for all of this I had to make a list to keep it all straight. It's probably not normal but it looks like sound deadening will come out to about half the cost of the system because I was able to shop around some and score a few deals. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Most of the goodies are in now and I'm still soundproofing and fitting up the new front door speakers. Volvo door trim, at least up through early 960s and the 940 have pockets that fit into spaces in the inner door panel. MLV doesn't like to contour quite that much so test fitting has needed a lot of cutting and adjusting. Three doors down, one to go though so I might wrap that up this evening.

The whole project is still moving forward at least, even though it's slow.
 

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Cool, do you have sound at least? How do you like it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I wish... the battery is unplugged because all of the electronics for the airbag are under where the driver's seat would be and soundproofing the floor is still on the to do list. All of that needs to get unbolted so I can put material underneath it.

I can tell it should sound a lot better once everything is complete just from holding the new speakers against the old. The new ones are only about 0.5" larger diameter but they weigh easily twice as much, and the old magnets are tiny and shallow compared to the new ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Working 60 hours/week is really slowing things down, but I've been able to make a little progress. Filler/spacers to fit a round speaker into an oval shaped hole are fitted up and new door speakers are in.

The deep contours with the front door trim has really been slowing things down. The front doors have two big areas where the trim fits into recessed areas in the inner door skin and adding MLV + CCF really throws it all off because it's too thick. If I can finish up the driver's door today I'll consider myself lucky. Doors will hopefully be the only really ugly areas because nothing else seems to be a precision fit like this is.

Yesterday I set up the old head unit just so I could test my work on the door speakers and so far, so good at least. No rattles or any other bad noises coming from anywhere and I can feel the difference in power from the old speakers to the new ones. Sound wasn't that great because it is entirely untuned but I was testing for resonance and rattles, not sound quality.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I'm still plodding along. At this point the sound deadening is basically done everywhere except for a front corner of the trunk because I'm holding off there until the wires come in the mail. The roof and pillars were extra "fun" because of how tight everything goes together.

Underneath the car and above the transmission and driveshaft I put in four coats of Spectrum. The next thing to go in today will be some Heat Wave Pro above the transmission and exhaust, then I can finally put the transmission in the car. I have to give people who do this sort of thing full time credit, sound deadening is a lot harder than I thought it would be!

FWIW Spectrum looks the same as the factory black paint used at the bottom of the sills, and they could use a little deadening anyway since they sound pretty hollow.







 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Things have been moving forward pretty quickly - keep in mind basically the whole car is getting restored so it's not a pure audio build.

Random things...
New power antenna mast
Heat Shield Pro is in (still need to seal the edges). The high temp spray adhesive they sell works great!
Transmission, starter, ignition and various sensor wiring, intake manifold, exhaust heat shielding, new A/C compressor, overhauled injectors, fuel rail, and new throttle cable/kickdown switch are in.

I transferred all of the stuff from my old middle section of the console to a new one that doesn't have all of the tabs that mount it broken. Still need to find a way to secure the head unit before that goes in. Rebuilt some of the switches in the dash that were starting to get a little flaky and have a list of all the little lights that are burned out. A local place is making new seat covers for the driver's seat identical to the original one. I'm sending off a small piece of the leather to Leatherique so they can make some matching dye that I'll use on the rest of the seats and the center armrest.

Also, f*ck Monoprice. I ordered RCA and speaker wiring from them early this month and the speaker wire finally arrived last night, and a couple of days ago they cancelled the RCA cables. Every day their site said the order had shipped out. Lesson learned, order what you need from Amazon Prime. It's good to find this out now because this winter I'm redoing our media closet and will need tons of cable and other stuff.

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It's been more than 2 months since the last post but as of a couple of days ago the car is back together, back on the ground and driveable. There was a lot of non-audio stuff going on for a while to restore the interior and taking care of a lot of mechanical and electrical things that needed attention or maintenance while the car was most of the way apart. "While you're in there..." really took over.

So the good...
- Sound deadening worked great! We've owned this car since 2008 so I have a pretty good idea of how loud it was before the madness began. Now that I can drive it around again it's like this isn't the same car. The engine and road noise are just a low hum and I don't even hear it shift anymore.
- DSP tuning videos linked from this site were awesome. My first try with the Helix was so far off I had to reset the thing to wipe whatever crap I had going on in there. I have decent crossovers figured out.

The not so good...
- The added thickness from the MLV made putting interior panels back on an absolute nightmare. The frustration doesn't end at the doors.
- There's a bad connection at the head unit for the rear/right line out that causes it to cut out sometimes.
- The midbass coming from the front doors is very bad. It's like something is sucking out the sound. Scroll back up to the first post and see the white plastic and brown paper areas on about 1/3 of the total door area? Those are all holes in the metal. I was hoping the door card would seal them up since it fits into them just a little bit but I guess not. Maybe metal flashing with MLV bonded to it that I can attach to the door with aluminum backed tape will seal it up and improve sound quality?

Something like this I'm thinking?


Once I get the front doors sorted out and tuned maybe I can look into rear fill. I really miss it and this is a huge car.
 

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Nice to see some work on an old Volvo! As a Swede, I approve!

Looks like you have put in a lot of nice work! Too bad about the midbass problem... I have build a few systems in Volvo 740's, and I agree. The doors are terrible! In my last -92 740 I did exactly like in your last picture. Sealed the large cutouts with some hard plastic and covered all sheetmetal with damping to seal it up. Still the midbass output was very poor... I think the problem is that it's difficult, it not impossible, to seal the doors because of the gap along the door window. There is no sealing strip on the inside. If you want speakers in the doors, they must seal around the interior doorcard. Like the stock speakers. But the doorcards will still be flopping around by the air movement...
 

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This was the door of my old -92 Volvo 740

Notice the gap by the window:

It leaked and canceled the soundwaves...
The door handles got some rattling going on too... :mad:
 
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