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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just a quick question to see what people recommend.

Sub:
Brahma 12” dvc @ 2 ohms each coil
Rated conservatively at 1000 w rms

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Gladen spl1800c1 monoblock
Rated at 1000 w at 4 ohms
Or
at 1875 w at 1 ohm

I figure you’d want to have some headroom since it can definitely take it, and the gladen provides an extra 875 w headroom at 1 ohm. Is that too much?

Which ohm load is more stressful for the amp - maxed at 4 ohm or half full at 1 ohm?

Which ohm load would you go with?
 

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I know people talk about headroom, but we are talking about 1000 watts. I dont know if I would be in a situation where I would be full tilt and need the full 1000 watts but that is just how I listen. I would vote for the 4 ohm load. Easier and comfortable for the amp and electrical
 

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Try both ways and see what you prefer? For my system on stock electrical I have swapped my 2ohm dvc sub between 4 ohms and 1 ohm, and found that 1 ohm was overworking my alternator and I didn't even need the extra headroom of running the amp at that impedance.
 

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Ya I figure that’s the safest way, but I also am convincing myself I can show restraint at 1875 haha.
If you plan on showing restraint, then you won't really use the whole 1,875 watts, right? It's less than a 3dB difference between 1,000 and 1,875 watts, so I'd stick with 4 ohms. Plus, like Jroo said, I can't imagine wanting more than 1,000 watts for music. I've got 500 watts on a single 10" and have it throttled down. Even for bass heavy music, if I used all 500 watts, the response would be way too unbalanced and bass heavy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok you guys are right. The Brahma isn’t exactly very efficient, but the strain on the alternator is definitely going to not make it worth it - especially when I’ve got two component sets being powered by other amps.

I was just looking for an excuse to run one ohm for the first time, but now I see it’s pretty much a ridiculous proposition without upgrading all the electrical.

Thanks guys for the input.
 

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I got my 600 watt rms sub up to about 700 watts today just before it bottomed out (12mm xmax one way) and my whole car was vibrating apart and thats in a sealed box! I have a 1200 watt amp but I dont normally use more than a few hundred watts except when im really cranking it with the bass knob to 100%
 

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I got my 600 watt rms sub up to about 700 watts today just before it bottomed out (12mm xmax one way) and my whole car was vibrating apart and thats in a sealed box! I have a 1200 watt amp but I dont normally use more than a few hundred watts except when im really cranking it with the bass knob to 100%
How do you know you were at 700 watts?
 

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How do you know you were at 700 watts?

I don't I could have just been at the mechanical limits of my 600 watt rms sub. But Ive had a 600 watt amp on the same sub just below the clip point before and it would not bottom out the sub. So I figure If I'm bottoming it out with my new 1200 watt amp it has to be at least 600 watts plus.


Its just a cheap NVX VSW122v2 - $100 in a 1.5 cube pre fab but surprisingly takes quite a bit of power...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I’m beginning to wonder about my zapco amp really putting out 1100. Besides getting hot, it also drains my whole system within one song. I bet there’s something wrong with it and once I get my gladen installed I will have something to compare it to. I just remember when I had my pdx m12 the sub sounded perfect.
 

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I’m beginning to wonder about my zapco amp really putting out 1100. Besides getting hot, it also drains my whole system within one song. I bet there’s something wrong with it and once I get my gladen installed I will have something to compare it to. I just remember when I had my pdx m12 the sub sounded perfect.

Thats why I'm ruinning Rockford Fosgate amps. I dont really like their speakers but their newer amps are super efficient :) Newer Kickers Also... I saw a video on Williston Audio labs of a Kicker Q class Amplifier and it was like 90% efficient, efficiency is getting really good!!
 
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