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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is the truck. I bought it in June of 21 with about 10,000 miles on it. It's a duramax 3500hd LT and I love it. The rims were on it when I bought it. Don't love them but don't hate them enough to buy new ones. Since I bought it I put new maxxis AT tires and a 3" lift on it. It has the 8" screen non bose factory radio. It's horrible but atleast I don't have to deal with the bose issues.
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I finally decided to install my LMI 2" seat lift and take a look at the back wall to see what I'd need to move in order to place my amp rack on there. Go figure I had one of everything on there, minus a Bose amp. I want all the space I can possibly get on that wall so I've moved everything including the sliding window motor. I never use it anyhow. The cable assembly can stay and it tucks away behind the corner trim peice. I'll make sure to wrap it and secure it when I'm soundproofing. That leaves the inverter and two other things wich I don't even know what they are. Then the window motor. Easy enough to move everything. I just used the floor shelf behind the seat. One thing you will learn about me is sometimes I do dumb sh!t. Rather than source some hpde or expanded pvc wich I did attempt. I found it but rather than drive to pick it up I used some .375" thick sierre alcan 6065 aluminum that I had laying around. I was telling myself I was an idiot the entire time but then by the time I was done with the mounting setup I decided I liked it and I was using it for my amp rack. It doesn't cut like plastic but once it's cut its pretty nice. With nice bits drilling it isn't bad at all. I mean I probably won't overuse any cable ties on my amp rack or anything. In any case I found a solution to mount that stuff and it's pretty damn sturdy. I've polished alot of aluminum and there's a point after you hit it with 220 grit sanding disc's the finish looks pretty nice. So that's where I left it. I used the rear seat bolts to secure them. I trimmed my carpet and left a couple strips that I tucked under my mounts to hold the carpet in place. Also the lmi kit was the gm1920 and it pretty slick. I'm going to finish up my amp rack and bolt it into place today and I'll post up some pics. That's all I've got for about a week or so. I'll post more when I start sound deadening and get some stuff to mount on the amp rack. Hopefully by the 10th or so.
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2021 GMC Sierra AT4
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Great, great start to the build.

I wouldn't bother putting the extension plates on the bottom mounts of the cushion. To be honest I don't have any of the extension plates on the bottom of my seat cushion because I don't bolt it in. The rear seat bottom gets wedged in there so firmly once you lock it into the pins above that it's not worth putting those bottom bolts back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A skillsaw with an aluminum cutting blade will burn through the 3/8" stuff pretty easy. It cuts clean and straight. The detailed stuff I st drilled out the corners and then used a jig saw. Then I ran over the edges with a file and used an orbital sander with 180 then 220. @RickWilson's build is the entire reason im doing a build log honestly. I feel like i owe it to the site just from the info i got from his build alone. Thanks for the info on the seat back, I was planning to cut the two brackets off like you did as well. Im finishing up my amp rack right now then ill post some pics.
 

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2021 GMC Sierra AT4
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@RickWilson's build is the entire reason im doing a build log honestly. I feel like i owe it to the site just from the info i got from his build alone.
This makes the hours spend sharing my build log all worth it.

Excited to see the amp rack.

anxious to see the equipment list.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Finished up the amp rack. Just need to shim it out about 1/4" to clear the vents. I've got a drawing that I'll try to remember to post that has every dimension needed for someone with the same truck. Ill try to post up a list of everything I'm using later for those that asked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was a little surprised that I got my order today. I was just notified last night that I had received customs clearance in Cincinnati and it showed up in Salt Lake City first thing this morning and DHL delivered by about 11am. I'm about an hour and a half North of SLC. That was quick. I'm excited. I'll post some pics later when I get a chance to get things unpacked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This showed up today, I started deadening today as well. Just finished finished the outer door skins. I'm using Vibrofiltr 4.0 on the outer skins and back wall with a Steg 15mil acoustic wave foam on top of that at basically 100% coverage minus cutting my sheets a little shy of edges and the crash bars. Just starting on my block off plates now then I'll do a full coverage of the inner door skins and spot treat the door cards with Vibrofiltr 3.0. Then I'll use Steg F7 sound absorber between the inner skin and the door card. Hoping to maybe start wiring tomorrow but damn I have alot of sound treating left to get through.
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'll post up some pics of the process once I wrap it up later tonight and then I'll type up a list of the entire system and my plans. I posted pics of mostly everything but I'll get a little more detailed. I know I like how alot of you guys detail every last detail and include the details on some of your build threads🤣 so I'll step it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Finally got a little progress to post up as far as sound treatment. I had stated before I used vibrofiltr 4.0 on my outer door skins but it was actually 3.0 it measured over 3mm but it's actually the 3.0. They have a 4.0 wich I'm assuming is a little over 4mm. That's what I wanted but they were currently out. So the 2 types I used are the green logo wich is the thicker at 3mm and the gold logo wich is the 2.3mm. There's a fairly significant difference that you can feel when installing the two. I'm using the thicker on the larger panels and the thinner on the more contoured areas but sticking to full coverage either way. I start off making some templates of my openings for speaker holes and access holes with just paper and some lead. It's old school but leaves me with a perfect template.
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