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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All,

I'd been reading through another "Help Me Pick Raw Drivers" thread, but opted to start my own so as not to hijack his, given his was for a 3-way setup.

Anyway, I'm looking to upgrade my current speakers (basic Pioneer tweeters and Infinity 6.5 coaxial as woofer only) and go to an active 2-way setup (plan on using MiniDSP.) Originally I was going to get a set of HAT Imagines used off ebay, but was outbid at 3:00AM by about $2. :rolleyes: (Bastard walked away with them for $102...)

Anyway, I'd like to go the raw driver route, and I'd like to stick to <$200.

I'd prefer to stick to a 6.5" woofer. I might be able to swing a 7", but I'm not sure at the moment.

Sound I'm After
Tweeters
I like a bit of sparkle on my high end. "Laid back" would not describe what I'm after. Nor would "harsh."
Woofer
I like clear, articulate, but confident bass guitar in my music. Something that does that works for me. But, I also don't need "holy **** so much bass," especially if it means sacrificing clarity or detail, as those things are important to me too. So a nice middle ground, then.

This is all going in my 2011 Legacy.
 

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Everyone looking for raw drivers and active should start out with Dayton RS series.

If you don't now, you will eventually, may as well get that out of the way.
 

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I do not have direct experience with these, but have heard good things about them and pricing seems reasonable. I am going to try a set for my next upgrade (after I get my new HU & amp installed).

Watch for sales or call and make them an offer - Sonic is pretty good about haggling.

NVX XSP6ACT 6.5" X-Series Active Component Car Speakers System

You can also buy the equivalent drivers from parts express or madisound - search the forum, somebody identified the source.
 

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All,

I'd been reading through another "Help Me Pick Raw Drivers" thread, but opted to start my own so as not to hijack his, given his was for a 3-way setup.

Anyway, I'm looking to upgrade my current speakers (basic Pioneer tweeters and Infinity 6.5 coaxial as woofer only) and go to an active 2-way setup (plan on using MiniDSP.) Originally I was going to get a set of HAT Imagines used off ebay, but was outbid at 3:00AM by about $2. :rolleyes: (Bastard walked away with them for $102...)

Anyway, I'd like to go the raw driver route, and I'd like to stick to <$200.

I'd prefer to stick to a 6.5" woofer. I might be able to swing a 7", but I'm not sure at the moment.

Sound I'm After
Tweeters
I like a bit of sparkle on my high end. "Laid back" would not describe what I'm after. Nor would "harsh."
Woofer
I like clear, articulate, but confident bass guitar in my music. Something that does that works for me. But, I also don't need "holy **** so much bass," especially if it means sacrificing clarity or detail, as those things are important to me too. So a nice middle ground, then.

This is all going in my 2011 Legacy.
Nice, Another Soob. I have heard really good things about these:
<http://soundstream.com/store/car-audio/speakers-tweeters/tweeters/twt-6.html> & these <http://precisionpower.com/store/products/speakers/tweeters/t-2-83.html> Allegedly the PPI's are the smoother of the two. Makes sense as their market is us sonic accuracy guys as opposed to the SS which are aimed at the "Loud and Proud" crowd. Like I say though both are apparently really good for their price points. As far as mids go I like the woven glass that infinity uses (Kappa Series). They are really tight sounding but where they fall down is that they don't reproduce the lower end too well in conjunction with the mids. I am running a Kappa sub though and true to form is tight sounding although it isn't excessively loud. Loud enough for me and I sometimes like to listen at just under 100 db (from the listening position). Haven't actually burnt one up yet and I purposely overpowered my sub by a factor of 2 (well close to that anyway).
As a mid only device you might not like the sound of a coax with the tweeter disabled over a completely separate device. The tweeter and subsequent housing are roadblocks to some of the frequencies emitted by the driver. Coax's are typically tuned around that deficiency as best as they can be. Where they make up for that is with the fact that they are more "(single) Point Source" accurate. (all of the sound is coming from one specific location). Time alignment addresses part of the problem associated with the waveforms combining from separate locations but that is not a perfect fix. You might want something that isn't quite so rigid as the glass (which doesn't flex much at all) but still on the rigid side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
At one point I was looking at the Dayton RS woofers, since they have a good reputation, but for some reason I didn't think their FR went that high. A quick look at PE says otherwise, however, so they go back on my list. My only worry is not being able to fit the 7" driver. WinISD shows that the 6" still has pretty formidable midbass response (at least comparable, if not better than, the HAT Imagine).

Do any of you have first-hand experience with both of them, and can comment on their differences?

The SB Acoustics woofer is even more impressive-looking than the Dayton 7. How does their sound compare? Is one more "detailed" than the other?

Obviously looking at WinISD can only tell me so much.
 

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Hmm,

If I "had" to design a system for a "complete" sound, I would like select the 8" Peerless driver, which can achieve decent low-end bass and perform respectable mids up to 1,000Hz or so:

http://www.parts-express.com/peerless-830667-8-paper-cone-sls-subwoofer--264-1102

If you go this route, check your mounting options. You could possibly buy or make your own adapter to fit this to your door depending on the design of your door speaker mount:
Baffle Cutout Diameter - 6.97"
Depth - 4.39"

Then get something like Tang-Band's 2" or 3" bamboo wideband driver and modify the dash to fire them at the windshield:

http://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w3-1364sa-3-bamboo-cone-driver--264-844

Amplify the Tangband's decently and crossover at 1Khz @ like 6db/Octave. I imagine that you might not even need a DSP to make this sound great. Just a powerful 4-channel amplifier. You could even use basic passive filters/resistors for this setup and get a great result with even a 2-channel amplifier and using basic EQ found on most headunits.
 

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I'm not a fan of tweeter-less setups. There are a lot of people here who like them, but I don't. I prefer the tried and true 2-way with a good woofer and tweeter that can play low.

Those Daytons are going to be something to consider. The 4 ohm paper version is something that I may end up buying, despite the fact that I have a couple of pairs of good 6.5"s already. I put them in a friends truck and have since wanted a pair to play with.

Dayton Audio RS150P-4 6" Reference Paper Woofer 4 Ohm

The paper version will play a bit higher, but you still have to worry about beaming. This woofer will start beaming at around 2,300Hz, so find a tweeter that will play cleanly to 2kHz if you can, but 2.5kHz should work just fine too. With about $60 left of your budget for each tweeter, you shouldn't have a problem doing this.
 

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for 120 you could buy a component set of JBL Power series, and just closet the passives.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The factory tweeter tweeter locations are on the dash, firing at the windshield. I like this location for the stealth factor, and IMO it sounds pretty decent there.

Alias essSQuee, I've heard of that type of setup before, but it really wouldn't work for me. I like my tweeter sparkle. The widebander would be too big for the tweeter pod, and I'd have to do some pretty extensive inner door skin/ door card cutting and glassing to fit those big 8's.

As a rule, I try not to modify anything that would cost more than $60 to replace when I decide to eventually sell the car. Those that I do aren't visible without taking the whole car apart.

Plus, I like to tinker, so despite it maybe sounding really good without DSP, I wouldn't be happy unless I could actually tune it. The tuning, installing, DIYing is at least half the fun for me. :)

gijoe, thank you for commenting on another of my threads. I'm thinking they might be a good choice, along with those SB Acoustics. The reputation of the Daytons might push me into their corner, but on paper the SB Acoustics look really fantastic. They also should both fit onto the angled spacer rings I'm halfway through making.

Compared to other 6"-7" woofers, how is the midbass (both authority and clarity) on the Dayton RS?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
cajunner, Until about a month ago, I had never given much thought to JBL. I guess I tried shying away from any of the big names figuring they were all overpriced, "just ok," "best buy" brands. That is, until I went to a local high-end movie theater (ArcLight), was floored by the sound quality, and noticed their name on the speaker grills as I was walking out. Since then I bought a pair of GTO subs to replace my old Sonys, and have loved them since the very first note, proving my ignorant ass wrong.

tl;dr I am open to JBLs.

How would they compare to the Daytons or SB Acoustics? More or less clear? Better or worse midbass? How about the tweeters?
 

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cajunner, Until about a month ago, I had never given much thought to JBL. I guess I tried shying away from any of the big names figuring they were all overpriced, "just ok," "best buy" brands. That is, until I went to a local high-end movie theater (ArcLight), was floored by the sound quality, and noticed their name on the speaker grills as I was walking out. Since then I bought a pair of GTO subs to replace my old Sonys, and have loved them since the very first note, proving my ignorant ass wrong.

tl;dr I am open to JBLs.

How would they compare to the Daytons or SB Acoustics? More or less clear? Better or worse midbass? How about the tweeters?
I suggest the comp sets, MS-series included, since they are being sold under the normal retail margins on ebay right now.


the consensus has been pretty consistent, I myself have not owned SB Acoustics, so a comparison from experience I don't have, but the budget constraint of <200 for a set, even in raw driver form is a narrow window.

the regular price of these sets would put them out of range, but they were available recently for your budget.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You're talking about the JBL Power series? I know Sonic has them for $120. I've gotta be honest, the "Power" name worries me a bit, since I'm definitely not interested in SPL speakers. But given this is DIYMA, and not, say caraudio.com, I guess I can safely assume that's not the case?

Have you listened to any of the Daytons mentioned earlier in this thread? I'd be curious to know how they compared to the JBLs.
 

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You're talking about the JBL Power series? I know Sonic has them for $120. I've gotta be honest, the "Power" name worries me a bit, since I'm definitely not interested in SPL speakers. But given this is DIYMA, and not, say caraudio.com, I guess I can safely assume that's not the case?

Have you listened to any of the Daytons mentioned earlier in this thread? I'd be curious to know how they compared to the JBLs.
I haven't listened to the latest version of the Power Series, and can't compare them.

I am only going on field reports that make the case that right now, you can get component sets of reasonably well matched, high quality brand names, that won't cost their normal price.

the reason many people choose raw drivers for their active systems is because they can, but also because it can be cheaper than paying for the crossovers in a decent component set.

my suggestion is that a well regarded component set is coming in at a price point equal to the raw driver mix and match crowd, which won't be for much longer.

JBL has steadily moved their feature sets in the components downward as a trend and the odds are good the Power Series, and the MS-series that is being disco'ed, are higher grade than what is coming next.

I figure you're stuck with the Flutes and Vifa XT or similar, as a compromise and although you're getting some good speakers the total might not work together as well as the JBL, and then you don't have a set of matched, purpose built crossovers for when you want to downgrade or sell off with a vehicle, either.
 

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Got some SEAS Neo Alums and Vifa car tweets I'm not using. Should test to verify and sell em. Both worked well for a 2-way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You've made a pretty good case for the JBLs, and unless anyone else can argue otherwise, that might be the route I'll take.

The real question is: What's the difference between the MS and the Power lines?
 

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Also will probably have an extra pair of Tang Band W6-789E mids as well. I love em. Have a pair in car now.
 
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