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Hey everyone! I've been slowly collecting equipment for my next installation and have gotten to the point where I can start showing off!

The car is a run-of-the-mil 2000 Honda Accord, but with only 45k original miles. I bought it off a friend who had garaged it (with a car cover) for a couple years and only drove it in the summer. When I got it it only had 25k miles on it! :eek:

The equipment is a collection of stuff new and old. The amps I've had for a little while (with the exception of the GT-24 which I bought off this forum), the HU I've had in several cars and will use it until it completely goes TU. :laugh: Sound dampening, of course, is new, and more is planned/on the way.

Here's my current layout:

HU: Eclipse CD8443
Front Stage: H-Audio Trinity & Ebony and maybe a tweeter.
Rears: H-Audio Trinity & Ebony
Sub: AE IB15 ** if it ever shows up :confused:
Amps: 3x Boston GT-22's (need one more), 1x Boston GT-24

GT-22 --> bridged --> left front Ebony
GT-22 --> bridged --> right front Ebony
GT-22 --> stereo --> left/right front Trinity
GT-22 (need) --> stereo --> left/right rear Trinity/Ebony pair w/ passive xover (also still need)
GT-24 --> bridged --> AE IB15

Signals will be handled by my Eclipse CD player, perhaps an Alpine EX-10 iPod aux-in adapter too. RCA's to the JBL MS-8, and then off to the amps.

My goal for the install is to have it be close to stock looking. I doesn't need to be flashy, but I do want to incorporate just a enough to be fun. :)

Stay tuned!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I had to track down a stupid security hex screw wrench to take off the covers of the amps :rolleyes: It seemed to work ok...

The amp boards seem to be nicely laid out and the red will look nice in the install I think. The heatsinking is a little different (the top piece of the sink was the top of the amp - the rest of the fins were hidden). I thinking about cutting off the top fin to make it flush with the other fins but keep the bottom sticking out like it is. I can use the bottom plate as a mounting device. The front of the amp will lose its 'feet' and probably be mounted with a piece of metal across the whole front. Its a little difficult to describe but you'll see what I mean :)

Boston was also nice enough make the leads on the fan (which was tucked inside next to the heatsinks) long enough that I can put the fans almost anywhere I need.
 

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It is a great car over all! Is it a V6/2 door? Weather 2 or 4 doors you will need to do some stiffning work to get the most from the door speakers. I had to plate my doors with 3/16" thick aluminium to stop the flexing of the panel. That was the only way I was able to get the speakers to perform.





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Holy cow, nice door panels!! :surprised: :)

It's a 4 door, 4 banger. How do you like the mids in the door? I'm thinking A-pillars for the widebanders and tweeters...
 

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It's pretty good in the door for me. I dont like the drivers to be pointing at me. I actually prefer them in the kicks! This pic was the very 1st install I did in the car when I got it new. I later replaced the JL's to Dynaudio 3 way, which was a major step forward. Then craved more full frontal bass & made the move to the Morel 9.








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I'm gonna have to follow along on this one. From one Accord owner to another, I'm curious to see what you end up with!
 

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Well, I've run into what I think is a snag (but maybe not??)I was planning on using a GT22 bridged on each of the front midbasses. I knew that I could mono the amp, but then realized that it wouldn't be a left or right signal, just mono (as in summed, right?).

How would I bridge the amp to create a true left amp and true right amp?
Or am I just having a brain fart?
 

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if you are sending the signal split up like right side to a amp and the left signal to anther amp what would the amp care if its left or right ? how would it know that ? i truthfully dont know the answer i dont think the amp cares as long it gets a signal.
 

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if you are sending the signal split up like right side to a amp and the left signal to anther amp what would the amp care if its left or right ? how would it know that ? i truthfully dont know the answer i dont think the amp cares as long it gets a signal.
Maybe I'm overthinking this... the Left Front from the MS8 goes to the Left amp -- if its bridged, it would need both Left and Right inputs, or just one? The amp has "Mono - L" as an input possibility -- does that mean I'm simply using the L input and sliding the switch to Mono on top?

And that'll give me a true 'left' or 'right' amp?

The owners manual is not too helpful. I 'supose I could call Boston :rolleyes:

So maybe its:

MS8 Front Midbass output signal --> RCA --> Left amp 'mono' input -->spkr wire-->spkr

MS8 Front Midbass output signal --> RCA --> Right amp 'mono' input --> spkr wire-->spkr
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Some more pics as promised:

This is from my first 'real' system back in 2000. It was a 1997 Civic HB with Boston Pro's in front, Xtant 603 and an Xtant 12" fiberglassed into the spare tire well. The back lit up in red neon to match the car when you opened the hatch.

I also had a "custom" install on the HU where it sat in front of the stick shift down below (I think where the factory tape player went) and an XM radio module installed in the radio location with a custom "pleather" wrapped plate.

Note the Nokia hands-free kit installed where that useless little pocket used to be :laugh:
 

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you will need two Y splitters. for the right side mid bass, split the right side signal into two and feed the amp's left and right channel with it. same goes for the left side amp. the amp doesnt really care or know whether its two different signals or one signal split into two.
 

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I also have an Accord, but '04 4door, Eclipse 8443 HU, and also awaiting AESBP15 subs :laugh: Running HAT L8SE in the doors, and HAT L4SE in the kicks. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I also have an Accord, but '04 4door, Eclipse 8443 HU, and also awaiting AESBP15 subs :laugh: Running HAT L8SE in the doors, and HAT L4SE in the kicks. :D
I see you and I are in the same boat.... John @ AE Speakers seems to have issue after issue. If he didn't have so many people praising his speakers, I would have tried to cancel my order awhile ago.

I put in my order for a IB15-4 in the middle of October :eek: The last update I had to search around for was that he was waiting on top plates (that post was from October 31st: Acoustic Elegance • View topic - ** Weekly info for the week beginning 10/31/11 ** ). This link shows that he *might* be closer to shipping a sub: Acoustic Elegance • View topic - Update Dec 1, 2011

I've never orderd from AE before -- hopefully its worth the wait.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
you will need two Y splitters. for the right side mid bass, split the right side signal into two and feed the amp's left and right channel with it. same goes for the left side amp. the amp doesnt really care or know whether its two different signals or one signal split into two.
Indeed... I called Boston and confirmed that the Y-splitters are needed. It turns out that you can use the L 'mono' input, but it engages the LP filter, with noway of defeating it. It wouldn't be all that bad but I need the Ebony's to reach up to the Trinity xover point - which is the very upper limit of the amps lowpass (Mark advises 315 for the HP to the Trinity's vs 350 LP on the amp. I think I'll stick with the MS8 xovers to cut it up).
 

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Ordered mine back on Aug 2, waiting on the end of year! From all I've read, it's well worth the wait! :thumbsup:
 

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A few more pics...

Under the hood. I like to keep it pretty clean :)

I'm using a Kinetik battery as my main starting battery. I'll be running 1/0 Stinger HPM wire to the back from here, into a fuse block. I've thought about adding a 'standard' battery in front and moving the Kinetik to the trunk. If I leave the Kinetik under the hood, I need to come up with some way of attaching the 1/0 to the battery terminal without adding height to the battery (which is pretty darn close to the hood).

ONe thing I did find was the Kinetik side post adapters - which I believe will add a side post option to my battery(??): WoofersEtc.com - KHC-SPA - Kinetik Side Post Adapters
 

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