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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I have been toiling over which direction to go with this car.
It has the factory DSP system in it, which is utter crap. The only way to do anything aside from adding a sub amp is to basically gut the car - Remove DSP amp, install new 4-channel and sub amps, replace all speakers.

The front has 3-ways from the factory. The rear has component 5.25."
I would like to go with a 2-way comp sent in the front and rear. 6.5" components can be fitted in both locations with a little work, which I'm going to have advantage audio in Norman OK perform for me.

Now, I'm just not sure what direction to go. I have heard amazing things about the Hybrid Audio stuff, but I'd only be able to do fronts at that price. I do want the rear fill, as my son will be in the rear quite often. I plan on eventually integrating some sort of dvd-entertainment, so I need the sound to be great in the rear as well. Here's my dilemma. My budget for the front AND rear doors is around $500. That will either buy me:
1. two sets of decent 6.5" components. In the car I just sold, I had the Morel Tempo set, and I felt the bang for the buck was just amazing. They sounded great. I could get two sets of these, or something similar, and stuff them in each door.
2. Get the 6.5" Hybrid Audio in the front, and lose sound in the rear until I can afford to put something back there, too. I'm not sure I like this solution...

For people who have heard the Hybrids in comparison to the Morel (or something in the same price range), can you comment? I'd love to know if the Hybrids really sound THAT much better to justify 2x the price over the tempos.

Also, to the topic of a sub. I'm going to probably just go with a single sub in the trunk aimed through the ski-pass. I'm much more interested in SQ at all volumes than I am loud, booming bass. What would be a good sub for me for under $250? I do listen to hip-hop on occasion, but I mostly listen to rock/reggae/alt stuff.

Thanks in advance for any input.

OH! Almost forgot amplification. I can't afford super-high-end amps. I'd like something 4-channel middle-of-the-road to power the two component sets, and a good sub amp. Any thoughts?

Mark
 

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No matter what you're planning to do as far a rear seat entertainment, I'd say its a waste to spend big money on rears. What I would do is to spend the majority of the money on the front components and the amplifier and then use whatever is left over to buy rear fill. I would probably just go with mids for rear fill but if you really want full sound back there you could go with some higher end coax.

As far as Hybrid vs Morel Tempo, I don't think that's a fair comparison. You're comparing the entry level Morels with the upper end Hybrids. If you compared the Morel Hybrid Ovations or Elates to the HATs it would probably be a better comparison. Then it would just come down to what kind of sound you prefer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No matter what you're planning to do as far a rear seat entertainment, I'd say its a waste to spend big money on rears. What I would do is to spend the majority of the money on the front components and the amplifier and then use whatever is left over to buy rear fill. I would probably just go with mids for rear fill but if you really want full sound back there you could go with some higher end coax.

As far as Hybrid vs Morel Tempo, I don't think that's a fair comparison. You're comparing the entry level Morels with the upper end Hybrids. If you compared the Morel Hybrid Ovations or Elates to the HATs it would probably be a better comparison. Then it would just come down to what kind of sound you prefer.
thanks for the post. That gives me a few things to think on.
As for amplification, is Alpine a safe bet?
I was thinking this for front comps/rear coax (or comps, whichever I choose):
MRP-F600 - Alpine V-Power Series 4-channel 600 Watt Amplifier

and something like this to power a sub:
MRP-M500 - Alpine Mono 500W subwoofer amplifier

Seems like a great price for the power ratings advertised...
 

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Not sure if you are open to the used market. Some people just like the security of purchasing new gear. The Kenwood Exelon X4R and X1R would be a good pair of amps to look at too. Similar in price to the Alpines you listed but more options in terms of DSP.
 

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What is the total budget, out the door, complete?

I ask because you need to wire, deaden, process, amplify, and of course have money for speakers and sub(s). With hard budget, I (and others) can get it figured out for you w/ options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What is the total budget, out the door, complete?

I ask because you need to wire, deaden, process, amplify, and of course have money for speakers and sub(s). With hard budget, I (and others) can get it figured out for you w/ options.
For amps, sub, box, wire, processing, and speakers I'm hoping to stay under $2k. I already have two bulk boxes of dynamat, and a roll of rammat... so no worries there.

I'd love to hear some input! BTW. that 2k figure does not take in to account any install charges, because I'll do a large majority of it myself.
 

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2 G's? That's quite a bit especially if you already have all the deadening you'll need. I do recommend you do the Ensolite or rattle-pad as well (you may already have it, but not be mentioned yet.)

Now then, here's my system suggestion (under budget):

Processor-wise, because almost nobody makes a processor that runs enough channels to control a system of this size, I'm going to recommend a pair of RF3sixty.2's strapped together (yes, they do that!) You can get each 3sixty.2 for around ~$300 total $600. This will allow control of 10 main channels, and 2 sub channels. Slightly overkill, but neat.

With this, you can keep a 3 way set of components in the front, and run a coaxial, biaxial, or component set in the rear as well. For the purposes of maintaining a decent budget, I'm going to stick with 2-way in the front. You can run the entire system actively, so you'll have excellent control over all aspects from a laptop.

**This is the option for 3 way if you have another amp, and 200 more for a set of mids**
Front 3-way, set as best you can in the factory condition, a set of Pioneer TS-C720PRS components (with the crossover tossed out), with an order placed for the matching 4" midrange TS-S101PRS, which is about $200 a pair shipped overseas to the U.S. So, that's about 425 altogether.**

Front TS-C720PRS components, $225 shipped

Rear deck 2-way (though I feel it is unnecesary!), do a set of Pioneer Premier 520's, ~$200 shipped.

Subs, well npdang is toying with the idea of putting a deal together on DIYMA subs again, $175 shipped for the pair. THAT's the sub set to go with, my man.

Amps, Phoenix Gold Xenon amps. A pair of 100.4's, $225 each. A 600.1, runs $237. BTW with a pair of 100.4's, you can go 3-way in the front OR bridge for more juice for the mids.

Wire? Easy. Welding wire 1/0 gauge from the battery to the trunk, then run a fused distro box, 4 gauge welding wire to the amps. Amazon has Kicker RCA's on sale, so you can get those cheaply. This distro box looks good enough, and cheap Phoenix Gold TXBBKF4 Power Distribution Blocks Distribution Blocks Amplifier Installation Car Accessories and Installation Car Audio and Video - Sonic Electronix . Let's assume that you could get all this for around $100 or so.


There ya go! Under 2 g's, killer processing, amps, subs, and components.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
2 G's? That's quite a bit especially if you already have all the deadening you'll need. I do recommend you do the Ensolite or rattle-pad as well (you may already have it, but not be mentioned yet.)

Now then, here's my system suggestion (under budget):

Processor-wise, because almost nobody makes a processor that runs enough channels to control a system of this size, I'm going to recommend a pair of RF3sixty.2's strapped together (yes, they do that!) You can get each 3sixty.2 for around ~$300 total $600. This will allow control of 10 main channels, and 2 sub channels. Slightly overkill, but neat.

With this, you can keep a 3 way set of components in the front, and run a coaxial, biaxial, or component set in the rear as well. For the purposes of maintaining a decent budget, I'm going to stick with 2-way in the front. You can run the entire system actively, so you'll have excellent control over all aspects from a laptop.

**This is the option for 3 way if you have another amp, and 200 more for a set of mids**
Front 3-way, set as best you can in the factory condition, a set of Pioneer TS-C720PRS components (with the crossover tossed out), with an order placed for the matching 4" midrange TS-S101PRS, which is about $200 a pair shipped overseas to the U.S. So, that's about 425 altogether.**

Front TS-C720PRS components, $225 shipped

Rear deck 2-way (though I feel it is unnecesary!), do a set of Pioneer Premier 520's, ~$200 shipped.

Subs, well npdang is toying with the idea of putting a deal together on DIYMA subs again, $175 shipped for the pair. THAT's the sub set to go with, my man.

Amps, Phoenix Gold Xenon amps. A pair of 100.4's, $225 each. A 600.1, runs $237. BTW with a pair of 100.4's, you can go 3-way in the front OR bridge for more juice for the mids.

Wire? Easy. Welding wire 1/0 gauge from the battery to the trunk, then run a fused distro box, 4 gauge welding wire to the amps. Amazon has Kicker RCA's on sale, so you can get those cheaply. This distro box looks good enough, and cheap Phoenix Gold TXBBKF4 Power Distribution Blocks Distribution Blocks Amplifier Installation Car Accessories and Installation Car Audio and Video - Sonic Electronix . Let's assume that you could get all this for around $100 or so.


There ya go! Under 2 g's, killer processing, amps, subs, and components.

holy smokes, that's a pretty killer setup. For some reason I thought Phoenix Gold had gone to crap? I can't remember where I heard that. Also, about the Pioneer speakers...are they better than the Morel Tempos? They are at about the same price point, and I've never really listened to any recent Pioneer sets.
 

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I am going to counterpoint Fourthmeals idea.

While it is very good, let me hit a couple things...

1st, I have a 01 5 series with DSP as well.

1. How in depth have you looked at removing the DSP? It is not really all that hard, however you have to remember that you are looking at a good 5v balanced output from the head unit. You will need to figure out how to bypass the factory amp setup that works for you, and use some processor that accepts balanced inputs via RCA (or whatever you choose to modify to work with the output of the system.

2. Do you actually care about running your system active? If not, a single 360.2 will give you 6 channels, or front R/L, rear R/L, and sub

3. I like the speaker recomendations. Knock out the extra RF 360 and you have a few more dollars. Along the same line...
4. If you run passive you also do not need the second amplifier, and you can get a single amp for all 4 channels. Something in the 100-150 per channel (Alpine PDX 4.150 seems great for you here) and you are set up.
 

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If I were you i would do this setup.....

Gut the factory system.

Run this in the front 370$
Focal 6.5" + 4" Access 3-Way Component Speakers

Run this in the Rear 360$
160V2 - Focal 6" 2 Way Component System

Amp For these 470$
450/4 - JL Audio 4 Ch. Amplifier

Run this for SubWoofer 150$
Diyma Subwoofer 12"

Amp for this 420$
500/1 - JL Audio 1 Ch 500 Watt Amplifier

1770$$ I would get of those subs , but thats me. Plus a Headunit of your choice and wiring and it should come close to 2k, I would just skip going active for now
 

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Which radio is in the car right now, is it the 4:3 screen or the 16:9?



Wow, this is why I love this site....so many great suggestions!! I have an E39 as well and can feel for you. Based on my experience. I would not bother with the rear fill, since your son will hear the front end pretty well. Second, do not use the factory tweeter location in the rear doors (if you decide on rears afterall). Lastly, with proper power application, you do not need to necessarily have it go through the ski boot. Ever thought about IB? they work great in that chassis.
As far as equipment, that's is a personal matter for you to decide.
 

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If I were you i would do this setup.....

Gut the factory system.

Run this in the front 370$
Focal 6.5" + 4" Access 3-Way Component Speakers

Run this in the Rear 360$
160V2 - Focal 6" 2 Way Component System

Amp For these 470$
450/4 - JL Audio 4 Ch. Amplifier

Run this for SubWoofer 150$
Diyma Subwoofer 12"

Amp for this 420$
500/1 - JL Audio 1 Ch 500 Watt Amplifier

1770$$ I would get of those subs , but thats me. Plus a Headunit of your choice and wiring and it should come close to 2k, I would just skip going active for now

Dont get teh Focal 3 way he is suggesting. Without serious modification it will not work. The mid for these cars is a 1.5-1.75" dome, above the trim. Not able to get much bigger without some serious work.

do a search for "e39" for some install threads.

also, unless you are a JL fanboy, dont worry about spending way too much for their stuff new. Get it used, or get a better deal.

Matt
 

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I have done the DSP-removal in the E39 and in the X5. The HU OP is not balanced, it's speaker, actually, but it works great.

If you need rears, use OEM rears.

For 2k you can get some good stuff. The E39 door enclosures make the install tricky - you either need to fab up some backs on the DP, or you need to EQ the snot out of the 5.25 to keep them from getting honky.

Last two I did I used DLS UP5 because the stamped-frame driver dropped in. I think the new ones are cast. Hertz 130 would drop in too.

Most 5.25 that can drop into the door enclosures are meant for infinite baffle mounting - the small enclosures give you more power handling, but make the upper midbass honky and cause rolloff in the lower midbass. You need some clean power and a good EQ.

I used Zapco DC, but on your budget, maybe not - too costly. The 360.2 would work. you can even use a good 1/2 DIN EQ in the bracket in back for the Nav DVD drive. I have put PG parametric EQs there.

You could also use those new Kenwoods with DSP IF they take speaker level in.

If I had your car to do, I would ace the rears, use the F and R HU outputs to use the fader as a subbass level control, and use a 360.2 on some nice amps.
 

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damn, beat me to it!!!! :))
 
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