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Listener of Music
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Discussion Starter #1
I have been looking for one of these cars for a while. I would have preferred the 6spd but only seen a couple over the last few years. Never seen the 6spd for a reasonable price. So 5 gears it is. The car has 168k looks and drives like it has 30k. I buy a couple cars a year for fun and this is the first time I actually had service records from day one. I've had a few people offer over the years but never took them up on it. Well I got them with this car and I read through them all. It was pretty cool to have a timeline. Almost nothing has needed to be done. All the matinence and wear and tear stuff. The biggie is all the clutch parts, struts and springs, and engine gaskets have been replaced within the last 32k. I paid less then 4000 for it. I bought it last Friday and have put over 1000 miles on it already. Love the car.





Ignore the work trucks in the background. They pay for my fun!
 

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excellent choice! hoping for some gems of audio in this.
 

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Listener of Music
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3,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
We drove the car back from NYC. It has the factory Bose system. It is horrible. I forgot how bad these low end Bose systems sound. The sound is just muddy and cluttered. My wife loves the boomy bass and couldn't stand how bass heavy this thing was. I could go on but why? So first thing Saturday the Bose came out. I already had a dash kit and amazingly the local shop had the Metra integration harness with the RCA inputs. Just sent the HU outputs directly in to the factory harness. I will still get to use the DSP features, somewhat. This Bose has the amplifiers on the speakers so the HU does all the downgrading of the signal (I assume).I had to modify the factory mounting brackets a bit. I Drilled over sized holes so I could easily adjust the double din setup in to the dash kit flush. I terminated the harness's with 3M heat shrink and adhesive connectors (my fav).



The Sound Monitor looks like it was designed for this car.


The lights match near perfect as well. Even though the knob lights are brighter the go with the dash lights. It's way closer to a match in person than pic.
 

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Listener of Music
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Discussion Starter #4
I will be using the SM hu, obviously. I will also be using the Sound Monitor PAX-3 amp setup. It's a separate power with two separate signal amplifiers connected via XLR. I have all the manuals and original packaging. I even have factory trim rings for both SM HU's. Most people that own them now haven't ever seen the trim pieces (not really "rings"). I had the manual professionally translated and put in to book form exactly as the original but it is currently misplaced.





 

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Listener of Music
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Discussion Starter #5
Everything else is up in the air. I always wanted to try some Phass speakers. I like Mosconi amps. I'm not sure on a sub (or two) either. Been eyeballing AF subs. I also need to figure out what cabling, batteries, etc. I do want this to be a little exotic, however I am not against what is just going to sound good.

There is a couple things that is decided. Factory locations only. I have conceded to the fact I may have to build out the tweeter locations to get the sound I am looking for. The factory 6.5 locations will allow for some baffles and aiming. I am not going to take up my trunk space either. I have about 2.8 cu available for box(total) and will just set the amps nicely on either side of the trunk. I am also going to utilize the rear speakers. On a DSP of their own. This car will have great listening at every seat. All the Eclipse systems I have had for my normal driving cars have had surround and I am going to continue that trend as best as I can. I assume I'll end up getting a DSP with center channel and run the center up front. The front may end up 3 way if I can figure a way to do it without changing the factory look. The rear will be 2-way. I will also be throwing a screen in here somewhere for navi duties and entertainment. I'm think some small tablet that can come out of the dash discretely above the center heater vents. It's just dead space. It will have to hide away like it belongs there. I am open to any ideas and/or suggestions. I will not be getting crazy with this for a few months. I just wanted to get some suggestions going as I start the process.

I will be doing a full sound deadening with SDS products. So please Second Skin don't chime in on my thread to tell me how your stuff fits the bill. Don is the man and I'm loyal to a fault.

I will be doing some minor mechanical and cosmetic upgrades as well. I have already purchased all new seats, door handles, head lamps, etc. I will be doing some timing adjustments and air intake stuff. Don't know to much about it. I have a mentor. So don't jump in with a bunch of technical stuff unless your trying to teach me(which I will appreciate). Still keep that to a min as this an audio site. I am really looking forward to help and suggestions.
 

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I wish you weren't so far away, this sounds like a great system in the making, and I've never seen sound monitor gear and am dead curious.
 

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Listener of Music
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Discussion Starter #7
Distance is realative. Far away for me is time. 2400 miles is close. It's only 3 days. As in not far away. 10 months however is far away. Which is my estimated mostly completed target. I travel out to LA for Laker games ( I in Cleveland for the game last night)I plan on driving the heck out of this car. Sunny California and a sunroof. Makes sense.
 

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well pm me when your out this way and we'll make an occasion of it.
 

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Listener of Music
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Discussion Starter #9
I will be in LA in the middle of April but I am sure my car won't be in any shape to drive out there then. I will definitely hit you up when I do drive out there. I love road trips. I still act like I'm 18 when people suggest going places "Hell yeah I'm in. When? Right now? No problem, let me grab a back pack" I just did it to my foreman when I bought this car. Called him at 10 pm to let him know I was in NYC. He angrily said "what kind of guy takes a unplanned trip when he has a company to run?" Me. So in others words I'm sure you'll get a chance to take a look and listen. Don't be afraid to remind me as this gets closer to done.
 
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Human (not a robot)
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This is my favorite body style of Maxima.
I really want one but the newest version of this style is 13 years old. :(

I like the Sound Monitor stuff. I'm ready to see the speaker install!
 

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Listener of Music
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3,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
13 years old just means the parts are cheaper! I switched out the analog input and ran a aptx Bluetooth adapter via coaxial. I can honestly say I am amazed at how decent this stereo sounds. It is no longer horrible. The factory sub is still just pure garbage but the rest is now listenable. I really complimenting the Bluetooth adapter! But really I need to figure out the front stage and get some speakers in. Here's the adapter. After two days I'm really pleased.

http://www.parts-express.com/bluetooth-40-receiver-with-aptx-decoding-and-nfc-pairing--320-340
 

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Listener of Music
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Discussion Starter #12
So I'm pretty sure I want to gowith a 12" IB. Anyone done this in one of these Maxima's with insight? I have never done a infinite baffle setup and I don't even know what to consider.
 

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Listener of Music
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Well add-ons, speaker selection and install location decisions are done.

Multimedia - Small tablet out of dash flip screen style.

3 TC Sounds 10" subs IB rear deck. Test fit, will work without removing rear glass. I still will if it ends upbeing easier to prepare the rear deck.

Stereo Integrity TM65's - Factory Door location. I may jump up to 8" mids later if these don't have enough umph (there is 4.5" of mounting depth and the inside of door panel will allow it)

Fountek 88EX mids - Doors. Close to dash just below window. There just happens to be a pocket with a near flat spot on the panel and about 4" of mounting depth behind it.

Scan Speak d3004 - Sail panels mostly off axis. Not sure how much I'll be able to aim them in the factory location but that was a big reason I chose these. I've been told they play well off axis.

Sub amp and second amp have not been decided. I want to use another Sound Monitor set but finding another will take an extreme stroke of luck. I am considering trying to get a Soundstream HRU.2 for sub duties as I'll need about 1200w to push those 3 subs.

I already own all the speakers but I am open to suggestions on a small tablet and a sub amp.
 

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Listener of Music
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Discussion Starter #14
Well something came up and I was not able to make it to the Syracuse show but I was able to utilize that time otherwise accordingly. Went to tear apart the rear deck and discovered that I had the basically rip out a the rear trim and seats. So I did the logical thing and put down some sound deadening. First and foremost I want to say sometimes the obvious eludes me. I have several cordless impact guns as I do lost of metal roofs and until a couple weeks ago I never thought of crossing them over to the automotive world. They work great. Break bolts free and make short work of any threaded fastener. You know, just like a pneumatic impact gun!





Here's what I started with







You can see all the factory CLD. I'm not touching it. The car is pretty quiet to begin with so something is doing its job. I'm just adding some SDS tiles where needed, then CCF, and MLV.

CCF done on floor



MLV...


I hit the trunk a bit. Was able to get some CLD in between the wheel well and inner trunk wall. Pretty tight.



Only MLV'd the spare tire so far. Getting the hard part out of the way



Controlling noise on the support brackets




Had to cut some MLB back so I can get seat belt brackets back in. Made sure I didn't take out the CCF. Don't want those vibrations transferring.



Left a flap for the gas tank access


Flap covering the pass through. It is going to stay but it is not secured just in case I do need to pass through.

 

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I've been considering do MLV in my build. What did you use for bonding?

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
 

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Listener of Music
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Discussion Starter #17
To me it's not a consideration anymore. It's as important as power cable. I always rattle/vibration proofed my vehicles. But did really understand the importance of the mlv.The first time I properly installed MLV it made such an significant difference there was no going back. I will lower my budget for all other aspects to make sure I have enough for all the steps of sound deadening. Just do it.

I used all Sound Deadener Showdown products with some ensolite PNS thrown in. You can see the the can of adhesive in one of the pictures. It's the best adhesive I have used. It also works on the CCF from SDS.
 

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acronyms for a novist are confusing lol, but would a residential MLV be equivilent? i mean seems cheaper. also i have some nice deadner with some thick tin, but im thinking of picking up this residential construction MLV and yes i feel the same way about it. its also a brand new car, i wanna do it right! if i'm going to keep this car till its paid off! at the very least so.

does this adhesive adhear to other surfaces like the aluminum\metal of the car? or say the tin of the deadner say on the door panels, should i only be worried about it as an insolation such as in a wall, where as its covered it covered surface tension has no affect on its efficiency?
 

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Listener of Music
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Discussion Starter #19
The adhesive I used only sticks to stuff with vinyl content. But it is the best stuff for what it does. The residential standards for smell are higher than what is tolerable in a car. What I am saying is the MLV can be an effective sound barrier but it may make you car stink. I did use the Home Depot MLV in my Blazer and it did work and did not smell much. However, it was extremely difficult to work with. It is a bit thhicker and a little less mass than SDS( Sound Deadener Showdown). It is not flexible and it is hard to shape to the contours of a vehicle. I only used it o the floor pan. Secondly a lot of residential MLV has a powder/dust on it that has to be cleaned off it before it is adhered. That being said, I would say if it's mass compares (1lb per sq ft) than it would be fine to save some money on floor pans, cargo area's, and maybe a firewall or tailgate. Never on doors. Use industrial strength Velcro to hold the MLV to vertical surfaces. Check out this link. It will teach you all you need to know. https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
 

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Listener of Music
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Discussion Starter #20
I may have mentioned that I am seeing what each upgrade's effect is to the factory system before I remove each factory component completely. That's why I am changing stuff piece by piece. So I deadend up the rear deck with some CLD tiles and closed up all the holes. There was two reasons. I wanted to see what improvement I could get from the Bose sub and I want to chase down any rattles before I put 3 10's in. Well there was a huge improvement in the subs output. It's still not good. But at least twice as good as it was. I found a rattle that may present a big challenge as well. The seat belt retainer housing. It rattles aggressively, like it it's only reason for existence is to upset me. The problem is that well, I need seat belts. I will be attacking that later. A couple picks of the rear deck.



The hinged looking thing is the truck lid arm. It's a big hole in the rear deck and needs to get sealed. Obviously I can't just stick CLD to it as it needs to move so I took a bit of the closed cell foam and put it in the center of a larger piece of CLD. Now the arm with rub against the CCF instead of sticking to the CLD.



The mids and tweets that are going in. The tweets are some Vifa's. They are temporary. Unless I love them.Just want to hear the difference myself. I will be putting in the afformentioned Scanspeaks.



And the most recent and important pic. The car back in the garage after a trip to North Carolina for a little GTG :).

 
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