DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,600 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
hey there. putting up a bit of a build log (most of the work is already done). this is Jachin's (Jachin99's) corvette. he helped out and lives local to me. i want a big shout out to my best friend paul (rokusek) for doing a lot of the wiring with me.

goals -

utilize two amplifiers that he had already purchased
maintain the use of the eclipse headunit and maximum functionality of ipod\pad integration
maintain ability to install\remove his hard top to the trunk stowage locations
have the ability to remove the amps\subs in the event he wants to bring the car to the race track
not cut\remove anything permanently
utilize OEM speaker locations
maximize sound quality and have it loud enough that can be heard with the top off




mountain of gear



vifa subwoofers - im excited to hear these



huge breakfast burrito (stellas diner in syracuse ny)



time to remove some stuff (the corvette box for dual 10's is empty)







the doors house a stock bose 10 and a 3~4 inch wideband midrange. there is no oem tweeter that i can find.





yes. that is a condom. to protect him from jizz in his pants after we are done. delightful things you find when tearing other peoples cars apart ;)





engine make noise...



this was a heavy box. i want to say it is fatmat. the butyl layer is so sticky, it was not easy getting the wax paper off. worked well in the sun though.



aluminum sub frame\floor with composite body panels. kind of cool to see in person.



more than 50% coverage on the floor.



and in the trunk



oh god oh god oh god... the car wont start and the top was off and the windows are down... lightning at this point was intense...



putting the door panel back on in the rain under a car cover used as a tent... this was a hail storm by the way - grapes were falling on us and the lightning was insane. i have some videos that can do something with if i get bored enough.



0awg through the main wiring grommet - he did not want to drill.



owch. this is what you get when you use knukonceptz kompression fittings and low strand\large gauge wire. i had about 10 slices through the same spot on the crease of my finger... owch.



OEM hands free mic removed, and aftermarket ECLIPSE mic installed in its place.







knu battery terminals... i dont know if i ever want to use these again... it was a pain in the ass.



my little bench - tearing apart the horrible wire mess behind the dash, removing stuff that wasnt needed, and putting it all back together.



just for reference - if anyone has to work on a onstar equipped vehicle - the car will NOT start with the onstar computer unplugged. apparently if you jump a pin and close a circuit then the system can be bypassed - but i am not certain if this actual works yet. this is located under the trim panel in the aft starboard side compartment in the hatch behind the PS tail light.



to start the amplifier rack. to get this to be removable, i had to make it simple. so quick disconnects and press fit were the key. the subwoofers will be installed in the pocket storage locations in the corners of the hatch and will push inward on the amp rack locking it place. the amp rack weighs just under 60lbs fully loaded with wires and everything. the space that it is in has negative rake angles on the front\aft portions due to the shape of the interior + carpet and fits very snug. in the event of a car accident the screws would most likely rip out versus the rack come loose.

and yes. at this point it does look like an upside down JL logo. with the subs installed it will not look like this. :mad:





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,600 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
some holes, some carpet and some equipment later





then ShawnK came over



quick! plug a shot of my wifes car and my car! :rolleyes:



then i watched a movie! (in my house)



yes, my underwear was orange.





two 6 pin molex connectors for left\right speaker connections. a 0awg power\ground quick disconnect, a quick disconnect for the remote wire, and a RCA disconnect - the whole deal comes out real nice-like.





i did not install the speaker wire for the subwoofers yet. i have not built the boxes yet. i will do that soon.











thats the ground. lol - i dont know where this picture came from! :p



fostek fr88ex midrange speakers. a template i made from the oem boston speakers out of ABS plastic plus some DUCT SEAL to act as a gasket and give a little mass to the panel.







Dayton Audio RS225 eight inch midbass. solder is our friend. pigtails with quick disconnects to make it easy if one should need to access inside the door for the regulator or window. i had to trim the baffle a bit on the bottom\door jamb areas to get the door panel to fit - and i think at high volumes the cone can touch - i will be taking these back out to rabbet the baffle, or change it to 1\2 inch.





used some 1\4 inch closed cell foam to make a rain guard





some deadening getting done, and a liberal amount of duct seal between the baffle and the door for mass loading.



same progress with the driver side



midrange mount and pigtails.



same for the other side, notice the sound deadener on the door skin



fill panels made of 6mm PVC sheet bought at my local plastic warehouse (leftovers from the projector screen i made - yeah, its 60"x122" muahahha) they are attached with aluminum rivets to prevent corrosion and the possibility of them coming loose from the door. this works optimally because the panels are made of composite - not metal. when plugging holes in sheet metal - i do NOT recommend putting screws (or drilling holes) because they WILL rust. if you do drill holes, vacuum all the metal shavings from inside the door, then paint the holes, then use rivets to attached your fill panels. corrosion inside doors is NOT good :(







it looks like that was the last picture i took. so deal with it ;)

so ill leave you with a picture of a box turtle i found in my back yard. :cool:





more to come when more gets done. it will be a few weeks from now until i have time to do more. between a trip to new york city this weekend and going back to syracuse for a few days sometime in the future, weekends get busy pretty quick! :worried:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,065 Posts
Very nice attention to detail, as usual. Curious what your plans are with sub enclosures...all fiberglass or 1/2 fg and 1/2 wood...or yet something else that I havnt thought of.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,600 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
thanks chithead :)

that was one of the main concerns. in the future, we plan to make a beauty panel to go on top of the amps so that he can still use the cargo area for putting travel bags or whatever too.

yeah dave, going to have a base of the same height that the amp rack is, and the rear end of the enclosure will sit down in the cubbies. the subs are almost going to be facing straight up to facillitate the use of the hard top. so with the whole thing installed - the hard top will still drop in without issues.

:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,065 Posts
That's going to sound great. Without the hard top in place the subs will reflect off the hatch glass and it will get loud. I'm curious how it will sound with the top in place, loud still I'm sure. I don't think you will need much gain on the sub amp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,600 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
yeah, fountek fr88ex midranges.

we have a cool idea(or two) for the tweeters - but i dont want to give it away yet. because if i do not go the route that i had planned, i dont want to get people upset hehe. ill still make the part that i am speaking about - but i may not use it in this install because of the weirdness of the car and the place that i want to utilize it.

basically, only a few people know about it - so dont spoil it for me if you are one of the few who know what im talking about ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,600 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Usually when I find condoms in customer's cars, they're Magnums. Pretty sure the people just stash them in weird places trying to impress people, lol.

Jay
LOL :cool:

i dont know WHAT you are talking about! :blush:

looking good so far really like the amp rack
thanks dude! i cant wait to build the sub boxes and finish the trunk off!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,600 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
thanks shawn!

i will take better\more pictures of the door panel.

we covered all the PVC with deadenrer and did a 50% deadener coverage for the door. then we put about 1lb of DUCT SEAL around the midbass, using it as a sealing gasket as well. then we covered the whole door panel with peel and stick 1\4" closed cell foam.

i just got back from new york city for the weekend wich was real fun. and i am going to be in syracuse from this wednesday to the following monday, then the last weekend in september is H20 International - and i have a cabin on the campgrounds reserved for the whole weekend. so i wont be doing anything more with the car until october (kind of a bummer, but this months is full).

stay tuned for the fiberglass sub enclosures though! :D

a few pictures from new york city while we all wait :)

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SC9sqWicPuE/Ui1OKyd3zgI/AAAAAAAAIfc/bWgW7YoKNR4/w551-h734-no/IMG_20130908_142658.jpg



blue man group was awesome.



i went to the Stereo Exchange and listened to some rad electrostats that cost more than my car and the stereo, not including the amp\preamp\wire lol.









i had a great weekend. i met up with turbo5supra (brian) for his birthday. was a great time!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,600 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
we did a little fixin' after we got the car together. decided to put the tweeters in FRONT of the midranges on-axis with the driver because there is like 2" of clearance between the cone of the midrange and the grill. i was able to angle the tweeters right at his ears.

also the midbass' were a TINY bit too close to the door card, so i had to use my trusty router to flush them into the baffles i made. the baffles were also a little too close to the edges of the door panels making them not fit as snug as we liked - so again the router was able to chamfer all the way around and now they fit great.

also i moved the rain guards i made to between the baffle and the door. they are a bit more like an umbrella that extends further this way, and if the speaker has to ever be removed for any reason, they will not fall out.











a few random pictures for you all :)




my projector after some steam from the popcorn machine was in front of the lens.


my car after i put some lowering springs on it. the hood is getting re-sprayed with clear. getting ready for H20i tomorrow !!!


H2OI.COM

thanks for watching! keep watching for fiberglass sub enclosures!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,600 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
yeah jay, mostly vw - but people with mercedes, bmw, and any other VAG car show up as well as the other people who have vw friends or used to own vw and now they have something else. h20 is a really chill enviornment and there isnt a bunch of scorn for people who dont drive vw - my expierence is that people only look down on others that act stupid :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,014 Posts
I've had 2 bugs (a '70 sunroof, and a '67 project car) and my dad had an '80 Rabbit (Bright yellow 4 door w/ rear seat deleted) that I drove on the off-weeks my '70 wasn't in the shop (which usually meant the Rabbit *was* in the shop. lol)

I see a lot of H20i coverage on Stanceworks and Stancenation too.

A girl in the Kia owners group on FB just got a Genesis Coupe and was trying to get it done before heading down there, which is what made me ask.

Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,702 Posts
Can you fit the 10" dayton in the doors instead of the 8"? How much room is there behind the 8" right now?

What about a 4.5" midrange in the doors? You said there is a lot of room in front of the midrange, which means with a bit of work you can move it forward and then fit a deeper mid in there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,600 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Can you fit the 10" dayton in the doors instead of the 8"? How much room is there behind the 8" right now?

What about a 4.5" midrange in the doors? You said there is a lot of room in front of the midrange, which means with a bit of work you can move it forward and then fit a deeper mid in there.
i actually had to recess the dayton mid about 1\4 inch back inward to prevent the cone from tapping the door card.

after i did that, i had to grind the corner of the window retaining bolts off with the dremel because they tapped the motor of the speaker as the window went up\down. and a larger speaker will not fit behind the stock speaker grill. i had to chamfer the speaker baffle with the router because i needed the extra 1\4 inch of clearance around the perimeter. so no, i daresay you could fit the 10" in there. maybe if you got a slim 10 like the OEM speaker is - maybe something from illusion audio would do the trick.

the space for the mid is actually pretty big and i didnt have a single problem fitting the fr88ex's in there. they just dropped right in with a 1\8" ABS baffle. i think fitting a 4" mid would be a sinch assuming its not incredibly deep. i actually was able to put the tweeter in front of the midrange between the grill and the mid - there is that much room.


the customer had to go on deployment with the marines - so he wont be back for a while. it got too cold to fiberglass (we tried anyway) and so we agreed to finish the subwoofer enclosure after he came back.

:)
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top