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So has the a/c suffered at all since you blocked off the vents? Seem like i could fit so much more back there if I just ripped all of mine out
He is talking about the vents that are on the back wall of the cab
theyre just flaps of plastic
I dont see why the a/c would suffer from that
Unless you thought he meant the a/c vents were blocked off
 

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Discussion Starter #22
A/C seems fine without the vents in. I guess if you were worried about it you could pull the vents and glue a board to the back and air would still be able to pass through the back wall due to the uneven plane.
Anyway I glued down some ensolite to both panels and crewed down some mdf rings. I made the rings from 3/4 inch MDF using my verticle bandsaw. Not the most fun but it is what I have until the bits for my new router get here.

And got the door panel on.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
So in moving my midrange and tweeter around in different spaces it seems to me that off axis up in the a-pillar sounds the best. I do not have time alignment so maybe this is why. But firing at eachother seems to be the best. So I cut some baffles for the midrange and tweeter. The tweeter mounts flush into it and I'm not sure how best to mount the midrange. I could mount it above (sinking the body of the midrange into the mdf) or below the 3/4" mdf. If I mount it from below I think I need to round off the edges from above. Let me know what you think.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Tackled the rear doors this morning. Covered the last large hole and put down a layer of BXT and Ensolite and installed the speakers and put the panel back on.


If I had it to do over again I would have covered the holes and not put speakers in it as they were a total PITA! Oh well....done now.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
So I took it for a little test drive as this is the first time with all the doors "done" and the interior panels on. First impression is that it is so much more quiet! I wish I had a decible reader to give some quanitification to how much more quiet it is. Mind you I have done nothing to the firewall or the wheel wells where no doubt most of the road noise comes from. I've spent probably just over 500 bones on "deadening material" and it has been worth it. If you have a Chevy truck like I do I highly recommend you spend some time getting rid of the noise and rattles. It is becoming a joy to drive and I can't wait for the stereo system to be finished as well.
 

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I like the install so far (I had an 06 crew). Why did you put mdf baffles on the doors then attach the drivers to pods? I want to see where this goes. These trucks yield amazing results.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
It forms a sound tube into the sealed door. I put a dense foam ring on the sheet metal baffle that the pods sit up against. Hope that makes sense. Hard to get a picture of. I'm told it would yield better bass if the speaker shot into the sealed door rather than just firing into the space between the sheet metal door and the interior trim panel. In other words if you just install the pods there is about a 1 1/2" space between it and the sheet metal on the door. So I put a baffle ring on the pod and baffle ring on the door with a foam ring between them to give a seal between the two panels. I would have liked to use clay to join the baffles but as you may know the door slides on rather than bolts on.
 

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Very nice so far! I'm following this one closely - I'm going to start on my '07 new body crew cab pretty soon. I've got the dampener, waiting on the noise barrier. Mine will have to go through several iterations - I've picked up a LOT from this forum and much of what I've got will "need" to be replaced. Anyway, checking out a good quality beginning like this is really helpful. Thanks for all the details, especially in how you dealt with the doors.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks for looking. If I were to give any advice on the doors or if I had it to do over again. I would still put down the butyl BXT, maybe 2 layers like I did just to stiffen the large flat panel up. I would order some of the luxury liner pro as the CCF is 1/4 inch thick and has the MLV glued to it. I would put this on the outer door panel. I don't think it would work in the inner door panel and still be able to get the interior trim panel back on. I used 1 layer of the BXT and one layer of ensolite on top of that and it was a pain to get the panel back on. Hopefully with the new body style your rear doors won't be like my doors. It is nearly impossible or at the very least a LOT of work to properly mount a driver to the sheet metal on the door with the regulator motor where it is. This is the main reason I opted to mount them off pods. Don't skimp on the deadener as it is not only nice for the midbass and stereo in general but will make your truck a lot nicer to drive/ride in.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Since I am waiting on the ampliers I figured I'd build a rack for them to mount to. Material is 3/4" square .065 wall tubing and the tabs are 3/16" cold rolled plate. I place the 3 front side tabs to bolt directly off the factory seat mounts. The rear tabs are far enough apart to mount outside the frame rails so it doesn't interfere with the driver's side fuel tank.

Dimensions are 49 inches long by 10 inches wide.

Front side tabs are a little odd shaped because I wanted them to recess into the factory seat tabs.

The rack compresses down on the trans. tunnel but still gives plenty of breathing room under and over the top once the amps. are mounted.
Overall I think it will be really clean and simple. My seats still fold down as well. It was nice to get back to tig welding since I've taken a bit of a vacation from fabrication for a while. And I bought some plastic end caps to finish the ends off since I didn't 45 degree cut the corners.
The JL amps are 19.75 inches long and 9.25 inches wide so the rack will give me plenty of room to mount them both as well as the crossovers for easier tuning.
 

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That looks real clean! That's pretty much exactly like I want mine to look like. What power/ground wire are you using?
 

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Looks great! My buddy has a 2001 Silverado with the 6.0 and has that same set of Hertz 3-way components up front with IDQv2 12s under the seat, all powered by Zapco Ref amps and it sounds damn good. You'll love the Hertz!
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I started my first attempt at fiberglassing. I decided to place my midrange and tweet in the a-pillar. I scuffed up the a-pillar plastic with 36 grit paper on my DA. Then I drilled 1/4" holes in the plastic for the resin to soak through and provide some anchorage. I made a baffle and glued it where I thought it sounded the best. I bought some Ponte cloth and super glued it to the wood baffle. I then pulled it over the a-pillar back edge and hot glued it in place. I put down a coat of resin and let them dry. Then I put two layers of 1.5 oz mat down and sanded them smooth. I sanded out the wrinkles on the one pillar that had them and put 5 layers of glass over the sanded area to give it some strength. They seems solid as a rock now.





I am waiting for the Rage Extreme to come so I can put down a layer of milkshake and sand it smooth.
I'll probably end up painting them.
 

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First install?? Are you serious!?!


This looks WAY too good and solid for a first attempt. I admire your work and attention to fabrication detail. You should be VERY proud of yourself. I commend you.
 
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