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^ x2! The a-pillars are just beautiful. Great ideas I'm going to keep in mind as my build moves along. I have the truck apart right now, Dynamat and MLV down, building my sub box. I don't think I'll be able to match your workmanship but it gives me something to shoot for. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Well...it being my first time I think it is going well. It isn't rocket science. I do recommend you get a good resin as it can make or break your building experience. I used some junk from Home Depot and the stuff hardened up on me waaaay too quickly. I ended up getting some b-220 from us composites. It is very nice and easy to work with and pretty inexpensive. Before you start, order the right products. They will make your fabrication a lot nicer. I used the 1.5 oz matt from them too. For the A-pillars just tear the matt with your fingers into 2-3 inch squares. Tearing it allows the edges to fade into the other patches easier and makes it easier to sand. When spreading the resin you want to dab with short swipes to get the resin to soak into the mat, rather than painting it on. I went very liberal with the resin. Drilling the holes in the a-pillar allowed the resin to soak through the matt and into the holes and leak onto the backside of the pillar so as to provide little "anchors". None of this is my idea, I took it all from people willing to share. Make sure you have everything out that you are going to need when you start the resin process. You need to work fast as it will start to harden up with doing one a-pillar. It took about 6-7 oz of resin to do a layer of 1.5 oz matt. I have 3 layers of the 1.5 oz matt on it and it seems solid as a rock. If I had it to do over again or if I was using a larger diameter driver I would think it beneficial to put wood screws through the plastic a-pillar and into the dowls and crews into the baffle and into the dowls so there is more than just hot glue securing it. The Ponte clothe is nice and can be bought at any fabric store. I much prefer it over fleece. There may be something thinner out there that stretches more but it is a good start. For this application I think what I have will be fine. The strength comes from the fiberglass not the covering. The covering just gives you a foundation to layer the glass upon. I'd like to try pantyhose at some point. Thanks for looking and if you have any questions at all let me know. I'm no expert but I can sure tell you all about my experience.
 

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As others have stated..... Hard to believe this is your first install. Very nice!

I've got a couple of questions for you if you don't mind.

You mentioned you bought your door pods from Custom Speaker Pods. I went to there site and didn't see any pods for the chevy crew cabs. Am I overlooking something? What modifications did you have to do to the original door panel to install the pods?

Also do your plans include a sub? I have a 03' crew cab I am planning an install in. And I am looking for ideas for sub placement. I want to keep everything as stock as possible. So the only place I can think of right now is behind the rear seat. Which doesn't leave much room. Any thoughts?

Keep up the good work and keep the pic.s coming!
 

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Discussion Starter #45
If you go to Custom Speaker Pods and go the gm section on the right hand side you will after clicking on that link see they have them for fullsize trucks as well. You don't have to do any mods really. I did on mine, but other than drilling a few holes they fit pretty good. Honestly though I'd recommend attaching the driver to the door rather than the panel. You are going to get better sound that way. I modified my pods a lot to get them as rigid as possible. While they mount to the panel, they also mount to the door.

I am building a sub box to go behind the rear seats. I am running the Stereo Integrity Mag V4 12 inch subs. in a sealed box. Space is tight and these seems to be about the best for small spaces. The mounting depth is 5.5 so they just barely fit. I'll get some pics but the box will be very simple, made from 3/4" MDF. Hard to justify making anything fancy for something that is always hidden. I know the box is 56 inches long, 13 inches tall, 7 inches deep at the bottom and 5.5 inches deep at the top.
 

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If you go to Custom Speaker Pods and go the gm section on the right hand side you will after clicking on that link see they have them for fullsize trucks as well. You don't have to do any mods really. I did on mine, but other than drilling a few holes they fit pretty good. Honestly though I'd recommend attaching the driver to the door rather than the panel. You are going to get better sound that way. I modified my pods a lot to get them as rigid as possible. While they mount to the panel, they also mount to the door.

I am building a sub box to go behind the rear seats. I am running the Stereo Integrity Mag V4 12 inch subs. in a sealed box. Space is tight and these seems to be about the best for small spaces. The mounting depth is 5.5 so they just barely fit. I'll get some pics but the box will be very simple, made from 3/4" MDF. Hard to justify making anything fancy for something that is always hidden. I know the box is 56 inches long, 13 inches tall, 7 inches deep at the bottom and 5.5 inches deep at the top.
Thanks for the reply Teeny

I look forward to seeing the sub box. Do you think there will be a problem with the sub hitting the back of the seat?
 

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...man you have just convinced me to deaden my entire truck ('04 GMC extended cab)...not sure if I should go with the Raamat or Edead? Do you plan to put subs and amps in the cab? I want to put two SPX 17 pro's in my each of my front doors and mount the tweets in the A-pillars...I think it will sound sweet!! YOur truck is awesome, keep up the good work and post pics as you modify
 

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Great looking build so far, any updates? I have an 06' Sierra CC that I'm planning to start working on this summer as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Well I got busy over the winter with skiing and snowboarding and a few other projects and forgot to finish the system on the truck. So I will try to update as I have time. Sorry for the long and drawn out project. I never figured it would take me this long but you all know how life gets in the way sometimes.
So anyway I needed to mount the hertz boxes somewhere and I wanted to do it close to where the speakers would all be so I didn't have to run long lengths of wire for no reason. The only place I could find that was out of the way was where the kick panels were so I went to work and got them mounted. I'm pretty happy with how hidden they are as I don't like things showing that don't need to be shown.
Without the kick panel...

With the kick panel...
 

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It forms a sound tube into the sealed door. I put a dense foam ring on the sheet metal baffle that the pods sit up against. Hope that makes sense. Hard to get a picture of. I'm told it would yield better bass if the speaker shot into the sealed door rather than just firing into the space between the sheet metal door and the interior trim panel. In other words if you just install the pods there is about a 1 1/2" space between it and the sheet metal on the door. So I put a baffle ring on the pod and baffle ring on the door with a foam ring between them to give a seal between the two panels. I would have liked to use clay to join the baffles but as you may know the door slides on rather than bolts on.

what did you use to install the foam ring to one side or the other??

nice install too.
 
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