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2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Dear DIYMA

Here is my 2007 Tundra Regular Cab Stereo Install. It is a more simple install, but it sound pretty dam fantastic!

I am going to make better pods that are not aimed right at the glass in the future, but I just wanted to get this install done and get the truck driving again! Its a work in progress but there is a good start here!

Listening Impressions.

I put the RTA on this truck right away. I dialed in my Crossover Settings on the H700 and did some phase tests to make sure everything was wired correctly. It checked out and we were on to tuning the truck for a flat response curve to see how it stacked up. After working with the Amp Gains, To my surprise, I had no more than a 3 db bump on any particular band. This was a great first start to see. A little tweaking and I had an almost perfectly flat RTA! How cool... But would that translate into a wonderful listening experience? Well as well all know it helps, but it for sure is just the start.

From 350 HZ and up the car is super crisp and clean. almost to crisp. It has a hint of lifelessness to the sound. I attribute this to the direct reflection off of the front window, that can be corrected with some different dash pods. The mid bass responds well, images very well and puts male vocals and bass guitar right in the center of the sound stage. I love that there is very little smear between highs/mids and Lows.

The Sub is the problem child. I wanted it to play up and around 70 HZ, but the Sub became very localized in the back center when I did that. I currently have it crossed at 50 hz but you can hear frequency transfers between the doors and the sub. It really pisses me off. Also the sub sounds down right wimpy, until you crack a window and the thing becomes a beast. I don't know how to fix this? Any ideas?

So im still working on the subwoofer portion, I am going to try a SI sub in there in a few weeks to see if the sub is part of the issue. BUt ill keep updates coming to this thread. Enjoy the Build!

Component List!
Morel Elate 3 way components, 1-3-6
Phoenix Gold Ti15 Dual 3ohm sub
Alpine W505
Alpine H700 (original model with face plate)
Alpine PDX 4.150 and 1000.1
Sanyo back up camera on license plate frame.
0awg wire split to 4awg wire for power wire
all speaker wire is 14awg
signal cables are all alpine ai-net cables



So here we go….

First thing we did is Strip down the interior and the doors and apply Hush Mat.




I also Pulled down the headliner and applied Hush Mat to the roof, floors , doors, and back wall.









Next I made door pods out of MDF and then coated them with Truck bed liner to seal them from moisture.





Next I installed LED Lights on the doors to shine at night when the door is open. I wired this into the stock door light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Next I made the Mounts for the Crossovers in the glove box. Each Crossover had 3 sets of wires attached to it, that is why there are 3 sets of holes on each side. I also took the stock glove box light and converted it to LED using the stock switch. After it was crimped into place, I put epoxy on the leads so they won’t come loose at all.






Here is the modification to the lower center dash to mount the control unit for the PXAH-700




Here is the power wire and distro blocks





Here are the amplifiers mounted under the seats.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here is the construction of the subwoofer Enclosure. Used MDF, Bondo and a power sander. There is 1.5 CuFt and the driver displaces .25 so is is perfect for the 1.25 cuft sealed requirement on the sub. I might redo the enclosure in Vinyl some point later on as it would match better and look better too!









 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here are the finished pictures of the install from today, I still have the nice fresh smell of fiberglass resin in the cabin!








 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I also Busted out some strip lights from V leds.com as well as door bulbs, maplights and licence plate lights.










 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Here are some pics of the rest of the install of the K40 System. It is really easy. The K40 Bluetooth Model is sweet!!

For the front Radar I made a mount and put it right behind the front grill. Also the LED Indicators on the interior are front and center!







The Laser Portion i mounted right on the front bumper.



The Rear Radar is mounted in the rear bumper cap, they work through plastic just fine so it does not show at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

Here is a Mod that I have found necessary on the last 4 toyota's that I have purchased. although not stereo related,, major comfort related.

I am a taller guy, but by no means huge. at 6'3" and 245 the tundra fits me great, but I always felt like my legs were never supported at the end of the seat, I also felt like the seat was tilted to far forward and I was going to slide off. I wanted something more comfortable, something to hold me, not so that I had to hold on! So here is what I came up with and it works perfectly!

THE NET RESULT, DROPS REAR OF SEAT 2", GIVES IT A MORE RECLINED AND SUPPORTIVE FEEL.

Time Needed: 2-4 hours including dry time. (depending on paint choice)




Here are the brackets that I am going to modify. These as you can see I have tried other ways to modify. you will only have one hole in your seat rail foot.[/COLOR]




First thing to do is cut off the excess steel from the foot of the chair using a recip saw and grind down the excess and sharp edges. Notice that I have ground it down to where it is flat with the rest of the foot that is left intact. This is the new base, so make sure it is somewhat flat, IT does not have to be perfect.





The next step is to drill out the Holes on the seat rail. and remove the rivets that are there currently. The rivets are marked in blue here. Do not worry, these rivets do not hold the seat bracket on, they are glued or welded in other ways too.



Cut out your brackets and match them up with the back of the seat rail foot. Drill holes matching up with the ones your drilled out the rivets with. and then bolt them on for test fitting. Once you have it fit properly, bolt them on tight and then grind off the excess threads sticking out from the nut. on the bottom of the new seat rail foot.





Notice the clearance issues that you can run into with this set up, you will need to use your angle grinder to make sure that the steel clears your seat when the slider moves up and down its motion.

Then Take the seat back inside the truck and mark the holes for where the bolts will go into the truck to lock it down. Drill them out and use a file to clean up the burrs.


 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Now you are almost done! Mask or cover the seats accordingly to paint them what ever color you would like.





Here is the finished product. None will ever no, they will just be nice and comfortable!

Passengers side.


Note that this bracket does not cover the carpet completely, that is my fault and I cut the bracket too short. Don't make this mistake, cut them 4.5 inches in length to account for this





Drivers Side



Well for all you tall guys out there! I hope this helped. It takes a few hours at best, I got it done on a saturday morning with 2 trips to the hardware store, so Enjoy it!!
 

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Wow, this really turned out nice! I like this truck and setup a lot!
 

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Out of curiousity, why have the controller for the 701 when the W505 will control it. I've never had any issues with my W505 controlling my 701.

Shane
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Out of curiousity, why have the controller for the 701 when the W505 will control it. I've never had any issues with my W505 controlling my 701.

Shane
Shane... It is because I don't have a 701... I have an older 700 and the interface with the 505 has a very slow time talking to the 700 version.

Also, I like having the separate interface. I can bounce between songs and have full deck control and also have full EQ control at the same time.

Also.. The PXAH700 has an Auto Time Correction feature with a mic that the 701 does not have.

Joe
 

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Very nice install. I am about to work on my 08 reg cab F-150. Almost finished buying stuff. It has been a major budget build but I hope it comes out half as nice as yours.
 

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Very nice install. Did the deadening help a lot? I drive the same truck with the v6 at work road noise is very bad in that truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Very nice install. Did the deadening help a lot? I drive the same truck with the v6 at work road noise is very bad in that truck.

Ya know.. It really did not help that much. I might go back and really get into it and do 2 layers all the way up to the rear window and the side panels behind the doors. I just did enough to keep the sub from causing a ruckus back there.
 
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