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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Im having some real issues with my Subwoofer in this install.

First is set up. I have no subsonic filter on it, it is crossed over at 50hz at a 18db cross on the top end and playing in phase with my door 6.5" Morels

1: There is a major frequency Transfer between my doors and my sub during song play, if a bass line goes from 60 hz to 40 hz, you can tell it is moving from the doors to the sub.
2: The bass clearly sounds like it is coming from the back of the truck.
3: The low frequency out put is much to be desired, unless I open the windows, then it slams!

Things I have tried. I have a H700 Processor
Phase correction: It seems to work for some songs and the others it gets worse..
Time Correction: Because it is the closest speaker to the driver I have messed with this, again, some frequency's it works,, others it make it worse..
X-Over, I have lowered the cross frequency down to 30hz and it kinda disseminates and just plays the lows, but then there is no real kick or bass when you play some of the other music. The doors just cant keep up with a real 35hz kick drum.

any suggestions.....? Is this an equipment issue? I know this is a 15", should I go and put a Si 12 in there or is there something im missing?
 
Nice work, as for your sub issue.

Try some other things,
1. higher LP frequency (60 to 80HZ)
2. change the slope to something not so steep, (ie 12 or 6db)
3. The HP on the mids, dont cut so steep, have it roll off more. so again use a shalower cut off curver (6 or 12dB)
4. Lower gainon sub & increase gain on the mid if possible, (this may mean attenuation on the tweet to balance out the sound)
Hope that helps.
Also how much tactile feel (ie your body) feels the sub? as thats kind of relevant seen as you hear less than you feel subbass freqs.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I figured out some stuff playing last night! I had my Input voltage on the wrong selection on the PDX sub amplifier. I changed that setting from .1-1v to 4-8v setting. Altered the Gain on the midbass drivers and subwoofer.

Crossovers are now at.
Midbass, 400 to 40 sloped at 6db
Subwoofer 70 to 0 slopped at 12 db

This was a huge help! The biggest change was that input setting on the sub though!

I played some more with what pods will sound like in the dash! I gota get that project started!!
 
Discussion starter · #25 · (Edited)
Nice work, as for your sub issue.

Also how much tactile feel (ie your body) feels the sub? as thats kind of relevant seen as you hear less than you feel subbass freqs.
This Still changes drastically when the windows are open vs closed. The sub seems to just open up when the windows are opened! The low end just comes pounding through and the seat backs start shaking at Higher volumes. But is very muted down, clean but not extended with the windows up.

Something I realized when doing this install, there is no cab vents like on other cars. I might have to make some and see if that helps.
 
This Still changes drastically when the windows are open vs closed. The sub seems to just open up when the windows are opened! The low end just comes pounding through and the seat backs start shaking at Higher volumes. But is very muted down, clean but not extended with the windows up.

Something I realized when doing this install, there is no cab vents like on other cars. I might have to make some and see if that helps.
I had an '02 Tundra Access Cab and I had the same issue whereby just cracking the windows open it sounded great and then closing them the low end rolled off. I was running a JL Stealthbox sealed enclosure. I always wondered if I was to go with a ported enclosure whether the window issue would go away. I never had a chance to find out since I don't have the truck anymore. I worked around the issue by bumping it ~+6db at around 40Hz when the windows were closed and pulling it back to 0 when they were open.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I had an '02 Tundra Access Cab and I had the same issue whereby just cracking the windows open it sounded great and then closing them the low end rolled off. I was running a JL Stealthbox sealed enclosure. I always wondered if I was to go with a ported enclosure whether the window issue would go away. I never had a chance to find out since I don't have the truck anymore. I worked around the issue by bumping it ~+6db at around 40Hz when the windows were closed and pulling it back to 0 when they were open.
Thank you for sharing this. This makes it even more evident that there needs to be a cab vent! Im going to try and dig something up and create a vent behind one of my panels. I also get lots of pressure when i close the doors. So Ill see what I come up with! Maybe harvest something off of another car at a junk yard.

The cab must be acting like another enclosure because it is so well sealed up.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Great ideas and functional. Have you considered getting the mids and tweets deep in the dash?
As in lower than there current position to hide them? Lots of cutting would have to be done to lower them from their current position, but it is doable. What would I gain from that?
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Well many if not all of my Tuning woes were solved tonight.... I had an auto setting on my H700 Processor that was choosing to turn on the MX processor controls depending on the source that was being used! :eek: I found that little bugger and turned it all off.. Now it sound lifeless and soo soo pure. No more background hiss, the Noise floor has been raised and things are really cleaned up!. Now I gota re RTA the truck and begin again,, but now my bass/mid-bass /mid/tweet all sound nice and blended with no boosting of signal in any one area!

Thank the good lord I figured it out!! For anyone else using the H700! Make sure you turned the MX off in both spots! In set up and on the MX button. Yikes!
 
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