Hi, I'm new here but after some reading I'm liking the wealth of information here so I wanted to ask for input from you guys on my stereo plan. I had originally posted this thread in The Hull Truth and had several of my questions answered there, but I the more people I can get inoput from the better!
Back story:
I bought a "new" boat last September, a 2008 Formula 350 SunSport and I love everything about it... except the stereo! It has a full Kenwood system that at 10 years old is just worn out, the boat was previously used in salt water so all the deck and transom speakers have corrosion on them and sound bad when turned up much (plus they trip the amplifiers breaker). I've decided it's all getting replaced, and I like to do things right the first time so I'm very carefully planning this out.
I have all the components bought and so far I have installed the HU and the transom speakers (both are working perfectly)
The boat layout:
All deck and transom speakers have component tweeters that are installed a few inches away from the woofer.
The plan (already started):
Thanks!
Dan
Back story:
I bought a "new" boat last September, a 2008 Formula 350 SunSport and I love everything about it... except the stereo! It has a full Kenwood system that at 10 years old is just worn out, the boat was previously used in salt water so all the deck and transom speakers have corrosion on them and sound bad when turned up much (plus they trip the amplifiers breaker). I've decided it's all getting replaced, and I like to do things right the first time so I'm very carefully planning this out.
I have all the components bought and so far I have installed the HU and the transom speakers (both are working perfectly)
The boat layout:
- 2x cabin speakers (I don't plan to change these)
- 4x 6.5" deck speakers (little room to increase size)
- 1x 10" deck subwoofer (little room to increase size)
- 2x 6.5" transom speakers (fiberglass is shaped for the cut out, so I can't increase the size easily)
All deck and transom speakers have component tweeters that are installed a few inches away from the woofer.
The plan (already started):
- Head unit: Fusion MS-AV755 - Bought a couple of months ago, so unfortunately I'm stuck with it and can't easily switch to one of the new Apollo units.
- Cabin Speakers: Leave alone alone and use the HU internal amp to power.
- Deck speakers: 4x Polk DB 6502 powered by a Polk PA D4000.4 amplifier. Amp only has 25% overhead, but this should be okay since I don't plan to run these at full power pretty much ever.
- Transom speakers: 2x Polk MM 6502 powered by another Polk PA D4000.4 in bridge config. Amp will have 60% overhead in this configuration - Speakers done and they sound surprisingly good off the factory Kenwood amp.
- Subwoofer: Polk MM1040UM powered by a Polk PA D1000.1. Amp will have 42.9% overhead (lower than the desired goal of 50%) - This was the original plan but it looks like I will have to change. This sub isn't designed for Infinite Baffle/Free Air and therefore will probably fail. I know its Qts is 0.50 but I'm still waiting on Polk to get back to me about its xmax (they don't publish hardly any specs), but I don't have high expectations for its ability to work in IB/FA. The spot for the sub is molded into fiberglass and there are literally no other places to put the sub. I should be able to get a 12" sub in the spot without much of a challenge, but all the good 12" IB subs seem to be more than 12", like the JL that's actually a massive 14"!!! The second best IB sub I've found is the Wet Sounds REVO 12FA at 12.68", this would require me to fill in a tiny spot behind the sub bezel on the right but I don't think it will affect the mounting strength. Once I'm able to post images here I'll post a diagram explaining what I need to do to make it fit.
Thanks!
Dan