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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a new car but I'm installing a mix of new parts and stuff I took out of my old car when I sold it.

The plan is a similar 2-way active front stage plus single subwoofer, since I liked it so much in my old ride. I will be sticking with 2-way as I don't want to get into mounting drivers on the dash or doing kickpanels. There isn't room for this in a manual, and as a noob I like how much easier a 2-way is to install, set-up and tune. It doesn't need to get very loud but I do like headroom and I like to listen to old DnB once in a while. I'll be doing a false floor at a lower height than stock. Yeah. My WRX-S is EDM and they decided to put in a full-width spare. That is going to be replaced with a ported enclosure modeled after the one Chad has in his Civic Si. 0.7ft3, external port at 30hz. After that's in there the floor should be about 100mm lower than stock.
I like to have everything looking as factory as possible to deter theft, so the sub and 4ch amp will be hidden under a totally stock-looking false floor. The Pioneer looks pretty low-key as is, and the tweets down there on the factory kick panels will not attract much attention.
Maybe I will install a SWI-JACK later to keep the steering wheel controls. The Pioneer doesn't look so easy to control from the faceplate while on the move.

The equipment list:

In hand right now:

Zed Gladius. Love this little 2ch amp.
Phaze Audio MW-64 mids. I had them in my old GF body Impreza due to severe limits on door depth and liked them in that car. Now I have more space, I may swap these to something with more midbass authority. We will see.
LP 26NA tweets. Love them.
Dayton Reference 265HO sub.
Lots of wire.

Awaiting delivery:

Pioneer DEH-P800PRS. Nervous about the pico fuse issues but what else is out there these days?
Scosche dash kit. Damn Subaru and their stupid non-standard OE HU.

Still searching:

A Zed-made 4ch amp. Trying to buy a Q120.4 at the moment.

Progress to date:

I plan to install the Gladius under the passenger seat to run the tweets and the Q120.4 in the trunk. I will bridge two channels to the sub for 360W and use the other two to run the mids in the doors.
So far I have the power wires all pulled in place, 4ga for the 4ch in the trunk and a separate 8ga for the Gladius. I was going to do a big-three but found the stock wire from alternator to battery is already about 4ga. I'm going to leave it be unless I have bad headlamp dimming. The battery to ground was a wimpy 10ga however so I ran an 8ga wire in parallel with it, and that should equal 6ga in total.
16ga speaker wire is run from the trunk into the doors, and more 16ga wire from under the passenger seat to the tweeter locations in the kicks. RCA cables are all in place, a pair to the Gladius and two pairs to the trunk. Yes I think 3 channels would do fine but who knows what the future will bring.
I like to have switches for the amp remotes so I can control them independently of the HU and shut down an amp as I like. I think it makes tuning easier. Subaru thoughtfully left two blank spots for switches on the center console and I installed some very OEM-looking auxiliary foglamp switches there.

So far I'm really impressed with the build quality of the new gen Impreza vs. the original. Everything fits together much more tightly, there is much more insulation fitted as original, especially on the bulkhead.


Next week I should be able to get the woodworking guy onto making my box, amp racks and speaker baffles. Once I have the baffles I will mount the mids and the Gladius for testing with tones to see what rattles in the doors before sealing and damping them. One thing I learned last time is that it's hard to find rattles inside a door that has all the access holes sealed up. :rolleyes:
I have some modeling clay left over from my last install, hopefully it's enough.

I still need to add an 8ga ground from engine to chassis, mount the fuseholders, fab and fit some ground wires for the amps, crimp terminals as necessary for other stuff, mount the tweets, install the new HU, RTFM...
 

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if u chasis ground the radio like pioneer wants you to and dont unplug the rca's while the radio is on u wont have any issues with the pico fuse ive run the premier 860, 880 and now im with the 800 with no problems and i stuck by those 2 rules. Good luck with ur build
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys!

I did read the loooong thread about the pico fuses and the warnings about hot-swapping the RCA leads. I've always believed in a separate ground for the HU, even if there is one in the harness. It is going to be a PITA to unhook the battery for every change in connections, but that's the price to play I guess.
I almost got the 9887 but the reviews of poor SQ and imprint performance put me off. Shame on Alpine for screwing that up.

The Scosche kit is on it's way already. I will see how it looks in the dash and get the OEM parts if unimpressed. I did see that item on someone's build and of course it looks perfect. We will see how good a job Scosche have done on this one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So good news and bad news. First the good.

My P800PRS arrived safe and sound, along with the dash kit and wiring harness.

It didn't take long to get the harnesses spliced together and ready for install, since I don't intend to use the internal amp.

I got lucky and found some cable trunking that's a perfect match for the OEM stuff in the car.

You can just about spot some red wire and the fuseholders next to the fusebox.

Head unit installed into Scosche dash kit very nicely. Seems like a quality item.

Getting it into the dash was similarly easy. I opted for the safe way of partially removing the silver swoop trim to get at the radio trim. 5 minute job.


The deck fired up and worked flawlessly, but...

The bad news, part 1.

My Gladius died. I followed install procedure to the letter and she just died. Made scratchy musical output for a few minutes and then... died. Output mosfets are all toast and so are the driver transistors. :(

I am going shopping to see if I can track down replacement silicon. I think the amp being in storage for 2.5 years might have left some condensation on the board and shorted it out.
Steven Mantz himself helped me diagnose the thing within an hour by email. The man is a god I tell ya. :bowdown:

The bad news, part 2.

The guy who was going to build my box died. Literally. Guy just fell down dead from liver cancer. Apparently the guys in his shop are going to form some sort of cooperative and continue. We'll see when that happens.
 

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The bad news, part 1.

My Gladius died. I followed install procedure to the letter and she just died. Made scratchy musical output for a few minutes and then... died. Output mosfets are all toast and so are the driver transistors. :(

The bad news, part 2.

The guy who was going to build my box died. Literally. Guy just fell down dead from liver cancer. Apparently the guys in his shop are going to form some sort of cooperative and continue. We'll see when that happens.
Damn that's some ****ty luck... join the club...hope the rest goes well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Damn that's some ****ty luck... join the club...hope the rest goes well.
Well, luckily I was able to score all the components on the replace list in one trip to my local electronics market. We will see if we can resurrect the Gladius tomorrow. I don't think we can do anything for the box guy however.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Gladius 1, forces of silence 0.

With the help of my buddy and advice from The Man, we have the Gladius back in action. Yay!
 

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Actually it would be Gladius - 1. Forces of Silence - 1.

Sorry to hear about that crap luck bro. But lets get these pics on a roll :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Actually it would be Gladius - 1. Forces of Silence - 1.
Well yes, if I was being fair. But where did being fair ever get me? ;)

Now I have a small issue to take care of. The factory deck has a remote wire for the radio antenna. As I understand it, it has a little signal booster amplifier or something. I connected the 800PRS via the wiring kit with a 0.5A fuse then a Y to feed both the antenna via the pin on the OEM plug and my amps via some switches in the center console.
The funny thing is that even with no amps connected, there is only 1V between my blue wire and ground, which is not enough to switch on my Gladius. I'm either going to install a relay to take the load off the deck or just cut the antenna loose. I never listen to the radio anyway.
 

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Ok, so let me get this straight. You have your fact power antenna and your amps on the same lead. This is only giving you 1v of power? Correct?

I dont remember the pinouts for the harness of the 880/800. But if there is a Blue wire and a Blue/White wire. Then it needs to separated. Blue to Antenna and Blue/White to the Amps.

If not, Im wondering if maybe you pulled too much current throught the Remote lead. I know Alpines are very touchy about that but I dont rememeber Pioneers being that way.

Remove everything from the Blue/White and see if it still is giving you 1v. If it is, it sounds like you may have pulled too much power and need to run a relay off the Acc wire. If it goes back to 12v then try one device at a time until you find the issue. And then use a relay off the remote for Remote.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok, so let me get this straight. You have your fact power antenna and your amps on the same lead. This is only giving you 1v of power? Correct?
At the moment only the antenna is connected and I still have only 1V on the remote wire.
I dont remember the pinouts for the harness of the 880/800. But if there is a Blue wire and a Blue/White wire. Then it needs to separated. Blue to Antenna and Blue/White to the Amps.
The P800 only has the one remote lead, blue/white.
If not, Im wondering if maybe you pulled too much current throught the Remote lead. I know Alpines are very touchy about that but I dont rememeber Pioneers being that way.
That's why I put the 0.5A fuse in there. Being aware of all the issues with the pico fuses on the RCAs, I am extra careful not to overwhelm the remote lead driver transistor.
Remove everything from the Blue/White and see if it still is giving you 1v. If it is, it sounds like you may have pulled too much power and need to run a relay off the Acc wire. If it goes back to 12v then try one device at a time until you find the issue. And then use a relay off the remote for Remote.
Yes, this is what I am thinking. I am curious if others have had this kind of issue with this type of active antenna but searches on the Subaru forums hasn't turned up anything useful.
 

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if you did actually pull too much current through your remote line and if I remember correctly you might have actually damaged the remote output transistor in the deck... if this is the case a run back to your electronics depot will be in order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
if you did actually pull too much current through your remote line and if I remember correctly you might have actually damaged the remote output transistor in the deck... if this is the case a run back to your electronics depot will be in order.
Yes, thanks for the reminder. I always install a small fuse in the blue wire, right behind the deck, just in case.
I disconnected the antenna and get battery voltage on the blue wire, so my fuse did it's job. I am going to install a small relay in the line now.
 

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Working on this box for my 07 impreza...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Working on this box for my 07 impreza...
That's sweet, but as you probably know, the '08 has a completely new multilink rear suspension layout. No more big intrusion into the cargo area from the strut tower, and no big area behind the strut tower to tuck an enclosure into.

In other news, I fitted a relay into the remote system and now have 12V at all ends. Yay. I bought one of those cigarette lighter USB power adapters and opened it up. Fed it 12V from the accessories wire and dragged a wire over to the lighting controls panel at the left of the steering column. I drilled a tiny hole on the low side so you can't see it from the driver's seat, glued a 2.5 DC socket to the back and made a short cable DC to mini-USB. Now I can power my phone in the cradle there without having to drape a wire over the top of the steering column. Looks very clean. Phone uses it's battery up pretty fast when using the built-in GPS.

Tomorrow I will go get my sub enclosure made. Now I have the Dayton driver on hand I see I will be using up about 6.5" of depth in the trunk. I kinda wish I'd gotten something slimmer like an SI BM. I will end up with 0.84ft3 of volume, a 17" long square port and plenty of room on a rack at the side of that to mount the Q120.4 when it arrives.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So, we have a typhoon sitting on our head here, just dumping huge amounts of rain on us. We've had about 1200mm of rain in the last 24hrs and other areas got as much 2200mm. Flooding everywhere. My box-builder is shut down until tomorrow. Instead, I got into the doors to mat them.

Here's a shot of the door panel. My old GF body wagon had absolutely zero deadening, damping or decoupling material on the panels. Subaru are stepping up their game.


Inside the door. Lots of hole for access to the outer door skin, but lots to close up.


The factory 'premium sound system' drivers. Ewww. Nastiness from China. I can only imagine what the base level stuff looks like.


Interestingly, the door braces are now used to support and dampen the outer skin by way of these soft caulking pads. Now I know where the improved door closing feel comes from. I only had to add some damping mat between the braces there to get a nice solid thunk from the panel.


My freshly-repaired Gladius hooked up for a quick rattle test. Of course things will be different with my MW-64s installed, the more powerful Q120.4 driving it, and a proper baffle in place. I thought it was useful to see if I could get anything to buzz now while I still have plenty of time to work on it. No buzzing yet, which is a marked improvement over the older Impreza. Door / window mech on that car was a nightmare to silence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So, on we plod. Passenger doors today.

I bought some 10mm thick closed-cell foam and 5mm nitrile rubber. MLV is not available here, so I took the next best thing. This stuff is heavy.

A few days ago I fitted the sheet of rubber into the hatch. Small panel only. All the trim parts there are loose and I bet are going to rattle like hell once the sub is in. I will go back in there and deal with that when I know what buzzes.

First, a layer of the foam on the door to decouple the rubber sheet from the inner door skin. I am not running rear fill, so I junked the OEM drivers and just pasted the foam over the holes.


Then I cut my rubber sheet to the shape of the door panel, but upon trying to fit the panel back on I found I had to cut a few places away where there just wasn't the space in there. At least the places where I had to cut the rubber are not where there are big holes in the inner skin, so hopefully I will still get the drop in noise I'm looking for.

Here you can see the sandwich created through the hole for the armrest.
Inner door skin > damping mat patches > CCF > rubber sheet > factory carpet padding > door panel.



No idea yet how effective it all is as a sound barrier but the doors close with a very satisfying sound now.

Next Tuesday I should be able to get my subwoofer enclosure made and my mdf baffles. Then I can finish the front doors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Good news

I have my subwoofer box built and installed.



My baffles went in the same night, along with more CCF and rubber sheet, and my MW-64 woofers. Of course it was about 1am before I had everything zipped up and ready for test.
First test was okay. Very basic level matching only. Went to bed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Bad news

I installed the Q120.4 in a 3-way set-up. Channels 1&2 bridged to the sub, and 3&4 running the mids. The mids sound great. The sub was barely moving. :confused: After a lot of messing around, I wired the sub just to channel 3 and got much better output. First time I've seen an amp make more power from one channel than two bridged. Maybe I need to read the manual some more...

Next morning I was packed and ready for a road trip, with tunes. Bear in mind I've had the car for two months and only listened to the stock system for less than one minute. I was up until 1am installing the last of the system and got up at 5am to pack. I was ready for tunes. Really ready.

Firing the car up I noticed I had some alternator whine in the mids. Not too loud, and I figured I'd just have to move the RCA cables around a little until it goes away. Then I stopped for gas. As I braked for the station entrance the disc in the HU skipped and then started making a whirring noise. I ejected the disc, put it back in. Noise still there. Tried another disc, noise still there. Tried another, noise still there, and now no sound from my amps. Disc out, tuner selected, still the noise is there. :mad: Two day road trip with no sounds and now a defective HU.
To add insult to injury I have no warranty on this brand new deck in this country and Pioneer service here have never even heard of this model. :worried:

Forces of silence 2 : Sigma6 1

Remind me why it is that I can't just drive with headphones on?
 
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