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put damping plates onto the enslosure walls...it will prevent Fibreglass enclosure ringing!

also enclosure walls are looking pretty thin to me.....
 

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I've also been doing more investigating on the trunk liner. Joanne's has some stuff that is an exact color match that they call "felt", but it's about half the thickness as trunk liner. It's looking like I will have to dye it what I have, but does anybody else know of a matching material?



Ali-323i, for reference, where did you get your trunk liner that you used for the enclosure under the trunk floor? What was the color called?


First of all, the progress is looking good!! I commend you on a job well done!

The carpets I used in my sealed enclosure, and the back of my IB baffle, were done by a couple of different audio shops. Guessing typical carpet they would normally stock.
It’s not a match to the oem liner but it’s close enough. IMG_2615.JPG photo 2016-05-25, 3 51 18 pm.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #23
LBaudio thanks for the feedback. I've given the thickness some thought throughout the build, testing flex and such. The curved surfaces are super strong due to a good bit of overlap when laying in the mat (and also due to the obvious nature of fiberglass), and I've added extra material on the flatter surfaces. I'd say that it's probably about 7 layers. Given that, do you still think it might be too thin, or is that good?

I do have some damping material that I will be applying, too. I didn't realize how much of a ring these enclosures had!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I spent a considerable amount of time trying to figure out where to put the amps and DSP. There have been a couple family trips where the trunk was literally full, so raising the full floor wasn't something I wanted to do. The rear seat doesn't fold down, but giving up 3-4" on the back wall was a bit too much.

In the end, I settled on putting the DSP and 600.4 under the floor in the space where some BMW processors would normally go, and the 1200.6 where the stock amp is (underneath the subwoofer).

There's not much in the way of bolts/studs/etc. for an amp baffle to grab on to underneath the floor, so I had to get a bit creative. First, I cut and trimmed two plates to lay flat. Then I made some aluminum tabs that bolt to the plates via t-nuts on the outside edges underneath. These fit into the slots on the sides of the "tray".

I then made a T-shaped holder that bolts to the two studs in the middle of the trays and presses down on the inside edge of each baffle. On each side there's a locating pin that corresponds to a hole in each baffle so everything is properly lined up.

The pieces were then painted black, hardware attached, and bolted in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Yes!! I found the trunk liner I was looking for - Rontex TL 1040 GM Light Heather. It's an exact match for what I have. Big shout out to Joe at J&J Auto Fabrics for sending the samples
 

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Discussion Starter #28
This week I finally had some time to work more on the sub grille. I've never pressed a grill before so I really didn't know how it was going to turn out, but to my surprise it was exactly as I envisioned. Super, super happy with how it came out.

I made a jig from just 1/2" MDF and glued it together, then used the circle jig and the router (absolutely loving these new toys) and made the male/female pieces. 5/16" bolts were more than sufficient for the force required to form the aluminum. If I do another grille like this, I'd say that without a press, 3/4" MDF would probably be better, especially if the press height is anything over 1/4". Putting a 1/8" round on the inside (male) disc ended up working out well, and I think you'd definitely need to do that for press heights over 1/4".

Both pieces are now primered with high-build and sanded, and are awaiting a final primer coat and sand. That should be finished tomorrow, but I'll have to wait until Monday to get the right paint. I thought I had something that would work but it's not quite right. More pics to follow soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Tuesday I was able to get the right paint for the sub grille, but due to the weather and the holiday I had to wait until today to get it painted and assembled.

I also finished making signal cables. For the actual wire I used Canare L-4E6S, and the ends are Switchcraft 3502ABAU. Markertek had great prices on both with the added bonus of free shipping, so I was able to get custom cables for about $90.

The next step is to get power wire measurements and order up all that stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I am stoked to see rest of this !! Your cables came out awesome!
Thanks! I think I have about 4 1/2 hours into the cables - it's good stuff but stripping a jacket and 4 wires on each end is tedious work.

The cable itself isn't as flexible as some signal cable, but it's more than sufficient to get around really any tight bend. I like the look and quality of the ends (I used the right-angle versions on my previous build) and the price is right if you look enough, but I wish that the ground had a slot in it so the wire could be left the same length, bent through and soldered on the bottom. It would also leave more room to solder the drain. A small tradeoff of a shorter body is that things are a bit tight, but they fit in the car easier and it's workable.

I'll have more pics of the trunk floor pretty soon. Just need to upholster it and add a grille to the amp DSP cover.
 

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Thanks! I think I have about 4 1/2 hours into the cables - it's good stuff but stripping a jacket and 4 wires on each end is tedious work.



The cable itself isn't as flexible as some signal cable, but it's more than sufficient to get around really any tight bend. I like the look and quality of the ends (I used the right-angle versions on my previous build) and the price is right if you look enough, but I wish that the ground had a slot in it so the wire could be left the same length, bent through and soldered on the bottom. It would also leave more room to solder the drain. A small tradeoff of a shorter body is that things are a bit tight, but they fit in the car easier and it's workable.



I'll have more pics of the trunk floor pretty soon. Just need to upholster it and add a grille to the amp DSP cover.


More pics please !!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Not too much progress as of late with the holiday and the atrocious (well, for CA, at least) weather. I found that the metal part of the sub grille would rattle the slightest amount when tapped on, so remounted it with some very thin foam which fixed the issue. It's fastened with small nails instead of the preferred staples because the lip is only 1/4" thick, and I didn't want to chance a staple going through or cracking the top.

I was also able to finalize my cable routing plan and measurements today so I ordered up all the power wire and hope to do some wiring work next weekend.

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Discussion Starter #39
Came home to a package full of wire and accessories Crutchfield yesterday! And a nice bonus was that I got 4ft. of 1/0ga cable instead of the 1ft. I ordered, so that will save some money on a future install. The Crutchfield power cable looks to be really good quality and it's reasonably priced. While the T-Spec (Metra) distribution block isn't terribly sexy, it also seems to be good quality and it is going to be hidden anyway.

I did immediately find that crimping a ring terminal is a massive pain without the proper tool, but thankfully I was able to make it solid with an old allen wrench, a vice, and a ton of brute force.

I made a bracket for the fused distribution block out of some scrap aluminum. First, I made a rough template out of some cereal box cardboard, then made some adjustments and transferred to another template. This was transferred to the aluminum, cut out, and bent to shape and holes drilled. Things take longer when you don't have a metal shop at your disposal, but that's how it goes.

I also painted it satin black but the picture didn't turn out too well. I'll likely have it mounted in the car tonight which means I can run more wiring.

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Discussion Starter #40
Got a lot of wiring done. Most of the work of running the power cable is finished and the signal cable is laid in to where it will go. Still need to run turn-on and power/ground for the DSP, but that should go pretty quickly. The zip ties that don't have the end clipped yet are a bit loose to allow for some adjustment when I wrap everything up. I had to do a lot of thinking about how I wanted to route the power and signal cable to the amp in the side panel to minimize noise, but I think this should be good.

And yes, that is duct tape which I'm not a fan of, but I wanted the ground cable to be recessed in that channel and cable tie mounts would have pushed it up too far. I got the tape from a friend that works in HVAC and it has held really well in my attic so I'm not worried about it.

I had made a mount for the 1200.6 amp a while back out of 1/2" MDF that is mounted to the factory amp bracket. I had to trim the factory bracket a bit to get it to fit, but it doesn't affect the factory amp so I can very easily go back to stock.

I'm to the point in the install now where I'm probably going to have to go without sound for a while. I need to run the wire for the front speakers so those can be put in, and I need to finish the new floor trim so I can permanently mount the amps and DSP. All that involves having more than the trunk apart. Thankfully starting Saturday I'll be on vacation for two weeks (traveling for 8 days) so hopefully the timing will work out well if the weather holds.

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