DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

41 - 56 of 56 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
Had to make some changes to the power/ground wire paths to accommodate fitment, but made more progress on getting everything connected and tied down. DSP is fully wired and the 600.4 only needs speaker wire which I'll run when I install the front speakers.

259145



259146
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Since I'm trying to keep the floor height as low as possible, I made trim panels out of 1/4" MDF. The lower one in the first pics has spacer blocks which support it at the front and locate it with the same dowel/hole arrangement I used for the amp and DSP baffles. It's covered in 3M 1080 vinyl in brushed aluminum finish to match the interior trim. It's hard to bend the vinyl around sharp corners like that without it tearing, so if I were to do it again I'd probably put a 1/8" round on the top (which would probably look better, anyway) and use a hair dryer instead of a heat gun for better and more even heat control.

The upper piece was pretty straightforward, with the flip-up in the back attached with glue and filler. The front curve was formed with stacked MDF and smoothed with more filler. This panel also locates with the same dowel/hole arrangement.

The flat floor panel just mimics the factory one. It would be nice to have the same pull handle as the factory one, but it's permanently mounted and BMW wants a ton of money for a new one so I can do without. The storage space is useless, anyway.

The next tasks are to carpet the new floor panels, install the front speakers, and mount/wire the 1200.6.


259147



259148



259149



259151



259150
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
Lots of work this past weekend and yesterday. All speaker wire is run to the front doors and to the underseat midbass, and the cable is run to the center console for the subwoofer level control. The constant power wire for the DSP had to be relocated to tap into the 600.4 amp because the constant power on the factory amp harness turned out to be constant only most of the time.

Underseat midbass installed and enclosures dampened, midrange installed in the door panels with 1/4" MDF adapters, and the tweeters snapped into the factory locations.

Seeing the pics now I realize that I shouldn't have zoomed in so closely, and there are lots of pics that I wish I would have taken for the front door wiring. Getting two 16ga. cables through each door was really tough. The plugs didn't have enough space to drill anything out, so I ran the wires through a small notch in the bottom of each plug but space was at the very limit. WD-40 helped ease getting them through the boots. Once inside the doors, I wrapped the wire in tesa tape and zip tied to every factory anchor point.

I tried to get the 1200.6 mount bolted in the car, but there's so much wiring that I had trouble routing everything properly and I ran out of time. Really all that's left is installing that amp, upholstering the floor panels, and installing the sub level control.

259286


259281


259282


259283


259284


259285
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Looking good dude.
I had the same thing with the 3m vinyl I used especially on the smaller radius curves. Adding that extra relief with a 45 degree chamfer (or rounder) definitely helped but I still ended up with a couple of small imperfections.

Keep up the great work :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
Looking good dude.
I had the same thing with the 3m vinyl I used especially on the smaller radius curves. Adding that extra relief with a 45 degree chamfer (or rounder) definitely helped but I still ended up with a couple of small imperfections.

Keep up the great work :)
Thanks man, really appreciate it.
Yeah, there's a couple small wrinkles in a couple corners if you really look for them, but I was recently able to stretch out the main offender and the others are on the near side so I'm calling it good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
I finished up the sub level control knob today. I should have finished the trunk floor trim panels, but I got tired of not having my center console in the car and I wanted to try out my new flush trim router bit.

The first pic is of the stock rubber insert. I took this out and cut out a piece of 1/4" MDF to match the shape, then added two layers of MDF (3/8" then 1/4") to the front of the panel to raise it up so the circuitry of the knob would clear the vent underneath. This was my first time using filler to make a piece like this fit perfectly and it wasn't too bad. To secure it, I used one screw in the front and bent a piece of aluminum and used it as a clamp in back.

To finish the panel I sprayed on some high-build primer and then some Landau Black SEM paint. I was originally going to use some SEM texture finish to give the panel some texture, but since the inside is smooth (and I didn't have any texture) I ended up not sanding the final coat of primer. I'm not terribly happy with the result on this, and I think I know why people use acrylic for this type of thing. The paint has too much sheen on it and it highlights some otherwise minor flaws. In the end I'm just going to keep it because it's hidden and I rarely open the armrest anyway.

If I'm honest, it's a horrible place for a level control because it's awkward to get to. Ideally it would be in front of the gear shift, but I wanted that space open. Using only part of it and trimming the rubber insert was my first idea, but because it's a BMW that piece of rubber costs about $50 shipped to my house. So based on principle I opted to keep things hidden.

260109


260103


260104


260105


260106


260107


260108
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
On the BMW handle, those things are maybe $10 bucks at a junkyard. Can you just get one there? That would be a good budget option.
Haha too late now, but you're probably right about the junkyard. A quick online search for the part number didn't yield any results so I took the quick way out. Probably for the better since I would have had to redo it in acrylic and find different paint. So right decision for the wrong reasons I guess! It was a good learning experience and I'm pretty sure I can nail it next time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
I have sound!

After a bit of time I was able to figure out the Helix software and get a basic configuration in the car. Very happy to report no charging system noise. The noise floor is pretty high, at least compared to stock, and the noise of the CD player is actually not quiet at all. I do know it was present in the stock system but I'm wondering if there's a way to reduce it. Sub is super quiet but gains are not yet set.

Now the real work begins. I've never tuned a car with a DSP before and my ears are really out of practice. I'm just going to get the system broken in a bit this week, and I've started with crossover points at 80Hz @24dB, 250Hz @24dB, and based on the Morel's passive crossover design 2200Hz at 12dB (Butterworth). I'm very open to any suggestions here.

Time alignment is set by crude measurements but thanks to Nick Apicella's tutorials I think I can get a handle on that.

Another issue is that I have really only set gains before by ear. I'm not going to pop for a distortion detector so I'll have to read up on how to set gains another way. Which will probably involve purchasing a fancy multimeter.

This is the first time I've seen the sub enclosure in the car and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out!

260495


260496
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
Today I was able to get a really good tune in the car with the help of the Helix auto-EQ function and the car sounds great!. Even better, I can tell there's quite a bit more potential as well. The gains are set properly so the system noise is acceptable and the gong volume is only slightly louder than stock.

Another cool thing I haven't touched on yet was the park distance control. I wanted to have it function like it does with the stock system but I didn't want any rear fill. I was able to do this by running the front outputs of the head unit to the DSP and then on to the amp inputs for the front speakers and the sub, but the rear channels go directly into the amp with the gain turned all the way down (rear speakers are stock, of course). The fader is all the way forward so the music plays with no rear fill, but the head unit ignores the fader for PDC so everything functions like I hoped it would. It's also nice to have the option for rear sound when someone (my kid) is in the back.

There's quite a bit to learn with a DSP and I still have a long way to go, but it's been really fun learning about all the theory and how to get just the basics set. One of the best things I have read so far is the Audiofrog tuning guide:

And a massive thanks to Nick Apicella for the video on how to use auto-EQ, which can be found only on caraudiojunkies.com.

All that's left fabrication-wise is to carpet the trunk floor panel which I should have done next weekend. Go 49ers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
Yesterday I was fortunate enough to get some (a lot) of help from Nick (nadams5755) who knows a thing or two about tuning, and the sound on the car is pretty much dialed in.

We were able to drop the crossover frequency on the midbass from 80Hz down to 60Hz, and the sub now plays 45Hz and down. The bass is really up front now, and a nice bonus is that the 80Hz rattle he found in the rear deck is now gone. I'm really surprised at the performance of the Gladens and I guess Nick was a bit as well when we started to tune them: "Is the sub on? There's no way those things play flat down to 20Hz."

Turning up the amp gains would give a bit more detail, but that would require retuning so I'm going to leave it for now. At least I know how to adjust the input gain in the Helix software now... There's always something that can be done to make your system sound better, but this is far and away the best sounding system I've had.

Now about that trunk panel that isn't upholstered yet...

(We forgot to save the midbass graph, but here's a couple before and midway graphs)
261484


261485
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
Got the trunk floor panel carpeted today. To mimic the stock panel that lifts up (to reveal laughable storage space) I sewed two pieces of carpet together to sandwich the panels. The match looks poor in the photos but it's actually really close in person. I may experiment on a scrap piece to see if I can dye it closer.

With this, I'm calling the fabrication on this car done! Overall I'd say I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I definitely learned a few things that will help out for the next build I do, whenever that is.

I'll probably play with the tune a bit with the intention of just learning more. After quite a bit of listening I have a feeling it's going to be hard to improve on Nick's tune that's in there now, though.

261701


261702


261705
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,443 Posts
Got the trunk floor panel carpeted today. To mimic the stock panel that lifts up (to reveal laughable storage space) I sewed two pieces of carpet together to sandwich the panels. The match looks poor in the photos but it's actually really close in person. I may experiment on a scrap piece to see if I can dye it closer.

With this, I'm calling the fabrication on this car done! Overall I'd say I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I definitely learned a few things that will help out for the next build I do, whenever that is.

I'll probably play with the tune a bit with the intention of just learning more. After quite a bit of listening I have a feeling it's going to be hard to improve on Nick's tune that's in there now, though.

View attachment 261701

View attachment 261702

View attachment 261705
Contact me one day when you have time. I want to see this in person

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
41 - 56 of 56 Posts
Top