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Discussion Starter #1
This is a 2009 Z51 coupe with the LS3 engine and 6 speed manual transmission. I have plans for the powertrain, so the audio install reflects some of the performance oriented goals of the car. I'm paying a lot of attentention to thermal issues and weight.

I sold my e36 M3 and kept the majority of the good parts in anticipation of this install. The system is mostly carryover from the M3 with the exception of the new sub/enclosure and midbasses:
  • Stock 6 disc in-dash unit (Corvettes have unequalized line level output, and stock appearance is a HUGE plus for me)
  • JL 300/4
  • JL 500/1
  • Boxology enclosure w/IDQ10
  • Dayton 8" reference mids
  • Radian HLCD's in Image Dynamics minihorn bodies
That's pretty much it. No center or rears to muddy up the imaging. The only other hardware I may add is an EQ. I'm looking at either an AudioControl EQT or the Alpine PXE-H650, depending on how it sounds right out of the box with the horns in this car.
 

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I pulled most of the interior and got started on the insulation kit. I'm surprised just how heavy the carpet is in the C6 compared to every other car I've worked on. The passenger side is noticably heavier and they apparently added some reinforcement and extra insulation for 2009. Luckily, the whole insulation kit weighs only about 3lbs! It does wonders for reducing cockpit temps as well as road noise. It's about 8mm thick and spongy feeling.

The insulation kit is a bit of a jigsaw puzzle to put together. I had to patch and cut pieces to fit the two "pods" on the center tunnel near your ankles on each side. Not too bad, just a little time consuming to get it to my satisfaction. The aluminum tape is difficult to work with cleanly, but the result doesn't look bad considering my somewhat sloppy application of it.

I also swapped the Bose 10" subs in the door for the Dayton 8" midbass. I'm using the signal wires for the self-amplified subs as the speaker wire for my mids. I just soldered and heat-shrinked a short length of speaker wire to go inside the door cavity via the main grommet above the speaker. This gives me a pretty clean wire routing and I can pick up the other end of the signal wires near the stock amp in the passenger footwell where I'll make the connection to my high power amp output along with the tweeter/horn wires later.

Staring at the inside of the door, I also had time to think about how having the window down might color the midbass response with a highly reflective surface right behind the driver. My solution was to drape some rubber mesh (tool cabinet shelf liner) across the back of the mid and adaptor plate. It was initially held on with 3M super77 adhesive, but it's also sandwiched between the adaptor plate and the door frame when installed. This should be just enough barrier to break up direct reflections without impeding breathing. I trimmed the excess mesh after tightening down the adaptor flanges to the door.

 

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Owning a Corvette myself I am intersted in how you plan on getting a sert of horns under the dash esp. with it being a manual. There is no way I would try horns in my C6.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I spent a fair amount of time checking the C6's for under dash clearance at work before I pulled the trigger on buying one and doing the horns in it. There should be enough room, but your toes will be behind the horn body while driving. The footwell is deep enough that I shouldn't have to worry about kicking them even when enjoying "spirited driving" on track. I'll make it work, I know it's been done before somewhere...

I looked at a bunch of drivers before getting the Dayton 8's. I didn't see any 10's that looked like they'd be as clean from 80Hz-1.5kHz as these for anywhere near the price. I'm only doing a two-way (active) front stage, so they have to extend to wherever the HLCD picks up. I have plenty of sub, so I don't necessarily need the extension. I'm not convinced that bigger is always better. The 8's should hold their own. My previous install sounded great with Peerless 6.5" mids in the BMW. This should only do better.
 

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Love the color, I am painting my show truck a similar shade of blue. Looking good so far!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I finished both doors and moved on to the horn install. There's a surprising amount of room under the dash if you're willing to make some compromise. I could have mounted the horn bodies closer to the edge of the dash, but the idea was to push them as far back as possible to improve staging. There is also nothing good to attach the mounting straps to that far toward the dash. Moving them deeper starts to encroach on toe clearance for the pedals, which is a big no-no since I plan on road racing the car and need to be able to dance without thinking about missing the horns. There was more lateral room on the C6 than my previous M3, so I pushed the driver further to the outside and trimmed the edge of the horn flush with the mouth opening. I ended up trimming the hood release switch to clear the horn body. It's still functional, and I have the horn mounted as far back and out as possible. The final location is about 4.5" deeper than the bottom of the dash panel. I still have access to both the OBDII plug, footwell light, and HVAC vents.




So, yes the driver's horn fits fine. The passenger side should be much easier, but that'll wait until tomorrow. I may take a shortcut and just order a pre-made amp rack from the same place I got the insulation and midbass plates from. I honestly don't see me coming up with something better without spending way too much time to do it.
 

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Wow; just wow. I applaud you for tearing into a brand new vette! I get all kinds of crap when I tell people I'm going to tear into my brand new Sierra Denali. Especially since I only made it a month with the factory pcm/tcm tuning in it. :D I'm really curious about the horns. Everyone raves about them but I have yet to hear a set. Anyway the car looks great so far!
 

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Wow; just wow. I applaud you for tearing into a brand new vette! I get all kinds of crap when I tell people I'm going to tear into my brand new Sierra Denali. Especially since I only made it a month with the factory pcm/tcm tuning in it.
Oh, I have plans for the powertrain too... :eek:

Tearing into the PCM calibration doesn't scare me since I do that for a living.
 

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Mmm. Turbo. Now I'm really jealous!

What do you use for the tuning? I'm currently running EFI Live but I'm a novice at best. I'm getting a lot of help from another experianced tuner. I'm hoping sometime this summer I'll be throwing in a Mast Motorsport cam and a set of American racing lt's. Its amazing the differance a little tuning has made on the L92 motor. Even more so with the 6l80. Just the removal of the TM was night and day.
 

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Nice. I'll be keeping an eye on this install as I have some horns ready to go into my '63 Impala, although unlike you I have plenty of room :)
(I say ready, though I have another install on the list ahead of the Impala.)

Anyway, I had it in my head that the bass driver should ideally be on the same plane as the horn (?). (Mounting in the door or kick panel would suit me much better too.)
I'll be keen to know how yours sounds.
 

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I'll be using HPTuners for the reflash. This is actually the demo car that I use for my business where I teach EFI calibration classes to enthusiasts and shop owners. My day job is as a powertrain calibration engineer for one of the Big 3. I am very familiar with how these things work. The MAF will stay (but in a new housing), and I will also have the complex equation-based VE model tuned correctly for boost as well. All of this will be without going to a custom operating system, since the factory OS is more flexible than many realize.

The straps must only be copper plated, since they're very attracted to the neo magnets. It's just what I had on hand when doing the install. You literally can't see it unless your head is on the floorboard. The horn is not visible from outside the car or in the driver's seat. I can "paint" them with a black Sharpie if it helps. ;)

The Flu is kicking my ass right now and I'm working with an out of town client this weekend, so the project is on hold for a bit.
 

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Sorry for asking this but the picture doesn't really show it.
Is the horn parallele to the floor?
Doesn't the underdash obstruct the opening of the horn mouth?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That picture was taken with the camera sitting on the front edge of the driver's seat. The horn body is flush with the closeout panel directly above it, so it's darn close to horizontal. I can tweak the straps on either side if needed to level it, but we'd be splitting hairs here.

The other (angled) photo shows it better. The closeout panel is not perfectly smooth, but I think it'll be close enough. Does anyone here really have enough experience (or data!) to show where a perfect coupling of the horn body to the dash makes any sonic difference? I suspect that by the time I'm tuning it in and listening, any mismatch between the top of the horn body and the bottom of the dash will be the least of my worries. They're as far back, apart, and level as I can get them. Time to move on to amplification and signal processing.
 
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