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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This will be my official 2010 Accord Coupe install/build thread. I've been planning the build for several months acquiring parts and components. Plans have changed a couple times since the beginning and may again, who knows but for right now I think I'm ready to go.

I have been into car audio since the late 80's and have had several moderate systems over the years but this is going to be my first real install with the idea of competing in the future. I will be going all out with sound deadening the entire vehicle etc.

The system will be an active system built around an Alpine IVA-W505 feeding a Matt Roberts modified H701 processor via digital optical. I considered going with a 9965 but really wanted the all in one nav,dvd etc.. with the 505. Amplifier duty will be all Zapco Reference and DC Reference. Speakers are Dynaudio MW162 (mids), Scan Speak D3004/602000 (tweets), Tang Band 4" bamboo cone (rear fill) and a pair of JL Audio 12W6V2's (subs).

This is probably going to be a long term affair as I will only be able to work on it in my spare time. Those of you that have families with small children know how "spare time" is an oxymoron. In any event I will update this thread whenever I make progress.

Here is the car in question...

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
OK so first project is to install a new starting battery since the factory battery is pretty much a joke. After researching for a couple weeks I decided to go with an XS Power S3400 AGM. The Stock battery is a Group 51R which means the positive and negative terminals are reversed compared to a regular battery. I could have gotten a 51R from XS but I wanted more reserve capacity and since the battery tray will hold it I opted for the S3400.

The S3400 has top mount terminals but of course they are on the wrong side compared to the 51R. So I am making a busbar out of .250" thick 1" wide solid copper to extend the positive terminal over to where the factory terminal will reach. The reason for this is I really don't want to mess with the factory harness and re-wire everything. I will have two top mount terminals on the busbar, one for the factory and one for the Stinger HPM 1/0 terminal I will be using.

Today I picked up the copper from my local metal supply house. I could have just used the bar as it was but since I have a mill and lathe in the shop I decided to mill the material flat and square. The screw down positive SAE terminal that came with battery was off by 1.5 degs which doesn't allow proper grip by the Stinger HPM battery terminal so I will be making a post with the exact right taper hat matches the inside of the Stinger terminal shortly. I have some brass stock laying around but I may pick up some copper instead just to keep the material used the same. To those of you asking yourselves if this guy is anal the answer is undoubtedly yes! :D

I didn't get a chance to take any pictures of the new battery yet but here are a few of the stock battery in the car and the before and after of the copper piece that I milled. Man, copper sure finishes nice! I just wish it stayed looking like that. Shame I will be covering it with shrink tubing or something to prevent shorts. All I had was a small 1/2" 4-flute endmill hence the multiple passes. I really need to invest in a fly cutter or the like.









 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What's a "reverse polarity" battery? The positive terminal is negative and the chassis ground is actually live?
No they call it reverse polarity but it's just that the terminals are on opposite sides compared to a normal battery. The positive and negative terminals are flip flopped. Look at the battery in the picture above and you can see what I mean. Edited the post to clarify.
 

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I like how you've started; and the fact that you have a mill and lathe at your disposal means that you are now my new enemy and that I envy you.

a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I like how you've started; and the fact that you have a mill and lathe at your disposal means that you are now my new enemy and that I envy you.

a lot.
:laugh:

Well while my lathe is a pretty decent machine my "mill" is just a mill/drill. It's ok for basic operations.

Here's a couple pics of my lathe and mill.





 

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I really look forward to this build. Im really considering an accord for my next car
 

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nice car!

Here's mine


One suggestion - You probably want something bigger for the rear fill other than the 4 inchers. I myself don't like rear fill, but limiting yourself to the midrange with the 4 incher is going to really make your image funky unless you have some uber processing going on. In my experience with those Tang Bands - They don't really like going lower than 350hz loudly, which I assume they'll have to do with 2 JL subs back there.

A 6.5 incher can fit pretty easily onto that back deck, so you may be better off getting something beefier and playing it from ~ 80hz - 500hz. Should give you some "meat" to the sound back there, without pulling your image funkily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Looks like this lathe. About $1400. I mean if you use it a lot...

Anxious for the rest of the build :thumbsup:
Nope. It's THIS ONE actually. $7K not including the Newall DRO or any tooling or the rotary phase converter required to run it off household power. The one you linked to is $3800. The $1495 is for the DRO (digital read out)

The "rear fill" is something that is more of a ambiance recovery more than rear fill. It's something that Matt is helping me with and yes it will require extra processing :).
 
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