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Discussion Starter #82
I actually have all of the cars wiring diagram already.

The steering wheel controls all lead to one wire behind the radio. I just need to know whats going on with that wire to know if I can use it. I suspect I'll have to just put a meter on it to find out. It's probably just a different resistance for each function.

Anyone here know much about Arduino? :)
 

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Would you be using the DEH-80PRS and DEX-P99RS for their DSP as well as source units? Or are they really nothing more than a source? If you are using them for processing, how much processing power do you need if you already have the APL1 and TwK D8?

If I might suggest another "low cost" head unit option (though, without bandpass crossovers), I would take a look at the Alpine CDE-HD149BT. It isn't the latest and greatest, but it is THE single DIN head unit I would buy if I didn't need the processing power of the P99RS or 80PRS.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
The TwK is currently not in the system, I bought it for my Bronco and haven't installed it yet.

The current HU is doing X-Over, TA and volume control. With it dead, I need a new solution for that, and I'd prefer to keep the steering wheel controls. I have an idea for that, I've started ordering parts and I'll post more about it as I assemble stuff... :D
 

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Maybe I'm unclear, but were you using the ASWC-1 for steering wheel interface with the current(dead) head unit? If so, why would you not be able to use the same interface with a new unit? All of those mentioned above will support steering wheel controls via that interface and their built in jack on the back of the unit.


-Steve
 

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Oh, ok I see what you are saying.
Yes, I would replace with a HU to retain the steering wheel controls. That Alpine Dustin mentioned is a nice unit and looks a lot better than the 80PRS.
 

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If you don't need L/R EQ, but do need the bandpass crossovers, you can also take a look at the Alpine CDE-163BT and CDE-164BT. The screen isn't as nice as the 149 and I don't think the face layout is as nice, but they do have the TA, crossovers and volume control you're likely to need.

If you don't go with a new HU, I would be interested to see what you come up with to try and maintain your steering wheel controls with just the DSP(s).
 

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Discussion Starter #89
If you don't need L/R EQ, but do need the bandpass crossovers, you can also take a look at the Alpine CDE-163BT and CDE-164BT. The screen isn't as nice as the 149 and I don't think the face layout is as nice, but they do have the TA, crossovers and volume control you're likely to need.

If you don't go with a new HU, I would be interested to see what you come up with to try and maintain your steering wheel controls with just the DSP(s).
I've ordered some parts to start working on a DSP-only solution that retains steering wheel controls. I will have to learn some C or C++, and do some testing on both the factory steering wheel control wire and the output of the ASWC-1.

I leave tomorrow for a two week road trip, when I get back some of the parts should be waiting for me. I got a promotion this winter, with that comes new responsibilities. Now my "down time" at shows will be doing advance administrative work for other shows, and my time to research personal projects has diminished greatly. So I'll break this up into two phases: #1 is getting the manual controls working, #2 is automating those manual controls with the steering wheel controls. My idea is totally possible, I just need to learn how to make it work.

So, um, anyone here know anything about Arduino, C, or C++? :p :D
 

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Discussion Starter #90
I got home today and some toys were waiting for me.





What we have here is a couple motorized linear 10K pots, an ethernet breakout board, and a mini DIN to ethernet adaptor.

So here is the plan: I'll pick up a Helix P Six and use these parts to build my remote control. I'll gut the factory radio, and put the pots in place of it's volume and tune knobs, and put the voltage gauge behind the window on the factory radio.

But that's not all!



With this cute little Arduino board, I should be able to read the steering wheel controls, and run the motors on the pots. This gets me the ideal setup for this car: Small lightweight system, great sounding, retain the (added)factory controls, and keep the non-flashy looks.

I'm home for a month, hopefully that's enough time to get the steering wheel buttons working!
 

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Discussion Starter #92
I'm home for a few days, and I'm taking my car on the next work trip. If I'm quick I can have the new setup running for the trip, giving me lots of time to tune it.

A mock up of the new "headunit" setup:



I will eventually tint the window so only the clipping lights show though. I need to glue the old buttons in, and add the new volume knob.

From the back:



I'm ditching the old digital setup out of the phone. I was using a lightning to to HDMI adaptor, and HDMI audio de-embedder, then digital coax to the APL1. The biggest drawback to that setup is the super slow phone charging because a sinle USB cable has to split power between the phone and HDMI adapter.

Now I'm using an aptX Bluetooth receiver that has an optical output. The optical will go straight into the APL1. By going bluetooth that leaves the charging port on my phone to do just that, charge, so it should charge much faster. Also, by having just one device in front of the APL1, it really cleans up the wiring.

I was planning to us the Helix P Six DSP, but before I got around to ordering one, JL came out with the VXi line, my 800/8 arrived a couple days ago:





I've already installed it:





The install pics are terrible, and I couldn't keep the dead grass from blowing into the car while working, so it looks dirty as hell. Better pics will be coming. Overall, the install is much cleaner than with the old Slash 300/4, and the VXi fits MUCH better. Also, now that the AG200 is gone, the driver seat goes all the way back again.

I'm going optical from the APL1 to the VXi, making cabling MUCH simpler. Right now I'm running the mids and tweeters off the first 4 channels, and when I add subs I'll bridge the last 4 channels to them.

At the moment I'm waiting on some TOSLINK 90º adapters and a 90º USB B cable to arrive so I can toss the new "headunit" in.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Today I removed the board from the APL1 and drilled some holes in the side of it's case to mount it to the cage of the factory radio.



Then I cabled everything up:



What you can't really see is the power controller for my dash cam, and the USB power port.

I mounted the volume control, and glued the factory buttons in place:



I've lost a button, but I'm sure it'll turn up soon enough.

Also, I used a DB25 connector to loop the analog Aux outputs from the amp back into the analog inputs:



This gets me an extra 10 bands of parametric EQ per side.
 

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Pretty cool to fit in the OEM HU!

Did you try something like this?



Then USB to coax box, charging is fast on mine.
But I have the phone in the dash so I needed wired.
Maybe APTX is good enough, or could you fit the phone in the 3 holes area?
Like:



It’s really cool to have it accessible like that
 

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Discussion Starter #96
I did try the USB 3 camera adapter with a USB audio adapter, but it didn't stop the music when I shut off the key. The HDMI solution does stop the music. The new setup should stop the music too, but I don't know yet.

I REALLY like the idea of the factory look, because MOST of the time I'm driving I have the top down, and it's not uncommon for me to leave it down when I park. Looking stock has some big security benefits.
 

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I did try the USB 3 camera adapter with a USB audio adapter, but it didn't stop the music when I shut off the key. The HDMI solution does stop the music. The new setup should stop the music too, but I don't know yet.
Must be 12v/ACc related more than the usb kit no? Mine is on acc and then stops with the keys off.


I REALLY like the idea of the factory look, because MOST of the time I'm driving I have the top down, and it's not uncommon for me to leave it down when I park. Looking stock has some big security benefits.
Sure, I don’t really have this constrain as the phone is excatly the shape of the oem gps display. So even if for some reasons I leave it there it still looks close to oem.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Must be 12v/ACc related more than the usb kit no? Mine is on acc and then stops with the keys off.
I had the USB power setup to cut power to the phone when the key was off, so I suspect the USB soundcard was capable of drawing power from the phone. I don't believe the HDMI dongle can run without power. It actually took more effort than I thought it would to find a BT receiver that didn't have a battery built in.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
It's well documented that the APL1 will switch to the analog inputs when there is no digital signal present. That worked VERY well with the HDMI solution because I could just unplug the phone and the HDMI de-embedder would shut off it's output. Unfortunately, the BT device doesn't shut off it's output when there is no device connected. I don't know if this will actually be a problem yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
A good news post!

First the non-car audio related news. I got a promotion at work, I'm now a Project Manager instead of an LED Video Tech. This means I'll be running all of our golf shows and a handful of other shows. I have a handful of techs under me, and my direct supervisor is an awesome dude with a TON of experience and great attitude. Even better, I'll be home a LOT more. I travelled 255 days last year for 15 golf tournaments. Now I'll attend a handful of tournaments, and instead of being there for the whole two weeks it takes to do a tournament, I'll just be there for setup and a couple days during tournament week to make sure things are off to a good start, then I'll go home. I've been on the road(in various forms) since 2007, so it'll take a little while to get used to being home so much.

As far as the install goes, I have some mediocre news there. Before my last trip I was having some serious issues with my XVi, see here: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/5436858-post231.html

Several weeks ago JL agreed to swap the amp out, but I had already left on my trip, so that was put on hold. I got home on Tuesday and did some updates on my computer(I NEVER update on the road) and saw that TüN had an update. Today I plugged the computer into the amp and did the update. The distortion issues went away with the update, so yay! However, if I try to send the digital out the Aux outputs and back to inputs 1&2, it's still high passed, and the volume is VERY low. If I go direct from the digital input to outputs 1-4, it works fine now. So, I feel like I should still send it back, but fuck, I just want some music in my car, and I can get it to work on for now.

While contemplating pulling the amp I went ahead and put 4 sheets of KnuKoncepts Kolossus in each door. I out on sheet on the outer skin, one on the inner metal skin, one on the plastic inner skin, and one on the door card. I also swapped out the plastic inner plastic skins with one from a Bose system, so no more hack job to get the 8's in. I also used some prefab spacers for the 8's. The 8's still stick out way too far and prevent the door card from going on all the way. I ordered some SB Acoustic 8's that are shallower, but they have an 8" cutout, and the door has a 7" cutout that can't really be made much bigger without a bunch of extra work. Some Illusion Carbon 8's would fit the bill perfectly...

I did some basic tuning with the top up with REW, no TA, and no APL tuning, with Raimonds MP1 tune as my target. This is where I am right now:



It's pretty far off from the target, but sounds pretty good so far. I suspect the area 2k(where the x-overs are set) will get a little better once I set TA using TDA. That big dip at 105Hz was there before and after tuning. I suspect it's a modal issue and there isn't much I can do about it. I'll set TA with TDA and tune with Workshop over the weekend.
 
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