DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner
1 - 20 of 125 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
New member here and starting an audio build in my Charger. The factory “premium” alpine system is just horrible, I messed around with basic audio systems years ago in my first car, mainly all basic kicker stuff while I learned the ropes. Now I’m dipping my toe into somewhat higher grade components and installations. My plan is a 3 way front component system with custom A-pillars, a glove box mounted 10”, infinite baffle 15” and a trunk amp rack under a false floor. I’m trying to keep as much trunk space as I can. This will be a nice learning experience on tuning basics with a DSP. The end goal is a great quality SQ build for a daily driver, and if all goes well I would love to stop in at a SQ event and have it judged

Parts list, all a work in progress as I continue research and plan

Tweeters- Scanspeak D3004/602000
Mid-range- Scanspeak 11m
Mid bass in the door- Anarchy 704
Front sub- Dayton RSS265HO-4 10"
Rear sub- Custom Stereo Integrity 15”

Rear speakers- CDT Unity 8.0 for differential rear fill

Amps-
2x Zapco 150.4LX for all the speakers
Zapco 400.2 AP for the front and rear subwoofer


Helix Pro MK2 DSP with a director
Topping D10s with coaxial from the center console
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
Please take some good disassembly pics. I'm doing a '16 Charger later this summer. I have all my gear but I need to finish two other installs first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Please take some good disassembly pics. I'm doing a '16 Charger later this summer. I have all my gear but I need to finish two other installs first.
Let me know what you want and I’ll be happy to help. The front doors were a major pain, there is a completely integrated plastic door liner that all the electronics and window track is mounted to, I couldn’t completely remove it to sound deaden the door. I had to leave it hanging and work around it to reach inside. Not looking forward to fishing new wire through the door boot either



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
662 Posts
Let me know what you want and I’ll be happy to help. The front doors were a major pain, there is a completely integrated plastic door liner that all the electronics and window track is mounted to, I couldn’t completely remove it to sound deaden the door. I had to leave it hanging and work around it to reach inside. Not looking forward to fishing new wire through the door boot either



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Damn that 6x9 baffle is part of whole plastic cover... Look like you can fit some MLV on that panel...

I’m planning on picking up a 2018 shaker skat pack in a few days..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Damn that 6x9 baffle is part of whole plastic cover... Look like you can fit some MLV on that panel...

I’m planning on picking up a 2018 shaker skat pack in a few days..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yep it’s all molded in. I ended up cutting off the speaker bracket and making new ones from PVC. It wasn’t very pretty, maybe one day I’ll redo them



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,359 Posts
Let me know what you want and I’ll be happy to help. The front doors were a major pain, there is a completely integrated plastic door liner that all the electronics and window track is mounted to, I couldn’t completely remove it to sound deaden the door. I had to leave it hanging and work around it to reach inside. Not looking forward to fishing new wire through the door boot either



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
FWIW - There are clips that release the glass so that you can remove it completely. It's one of those hard to explain things that's confusing till you do it one time and then it's obvious. If you Google removing/replacing the glass you should be able to find yours... Completely removing the plastic inner door panel makes sound deadening the doors way easier and you can then treat both sides of the plastic as well.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
FWIW - There are clips that release the glass so that you can remove it completely. It's one of those hard to explain things that's confusing till you do it one time and then it's obvious. If you Google removing/replacing the glass you should be able to find yours... Completely removing the plastic inner door panel makes sound deadening the doors way easier and you can then treat both sides of the plastic as well.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Yes I definitely had to remove the glass, but I couldn’t completely remove the inner liner without removing the door handles and latches. I still had enough room to deaden the inside though



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,359 Posts
Yes I definitely had to remove the glass, but I couldn’t completely remove the inner liner without removing the door handles and latches. I still had enough room to deaden the inside though



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Understood - I've done it both ways and for big midbass from these plastic inner panels it takes a bunch of MLV or something similar to keep panel resonance down. But I'm talking 150-300+ Watts RMS Class A/B in to a good 6x9 or 8" speaker in the stock location playing down to 60-80Hz... there's a bunch of FCA/DCA cars that have these same panels and hardware.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
313 Posts
Yes I definitely had to remove the glass, but I couldn’t completely remove the inner liner without removing the door handles and latches. I still had enough room to deaden the inside though



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sorry mate - that looks like a royal PITA.

Wow.

-Eric


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I got the factory amp tapped, first time using the Posi-Taps and I was really happy with them, so much better then how I used to do them. I used a 9 wire cable to keep it nice and neat for the front speaker taps. I also got the new speaker wire ran to the front doors. It was actually fairly easy getting them through the connector at the door frame, but the rubber boot was very difficult to fish through. It’s very tight so I had to pull the whole rubber wrap off the plastic channel, and actually had to cut a slit in the back of the boot to help guide it around the 90° turn at the door.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
With the older uConnect in my 2011, the usb input doesn’t work with Spotify, it just auto skips every song. Updates didn’t work and I can’t find a solution online. After seeing the S/PDIF input on my processor, I spent awhile researching using that as the audio input from my iPhone. I think I should be able to use the iPhone camera adapter usb plug, a Topping D10 and a Toslink cable for input. Hopefully this will provide a much cleaner input then going through the factory system. I’m still going to use the factory center channel for Bluetooth calling. I think in theory, I can run audio from my phone through the Topping D10, and also still stay connected to the Bluetooth for hands free calling. I’ll see how well it works out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I am curious which input would be better, optical or coaxial. I had assumed the optical would be better, but I came across one post in a thread saying the coaxial would be the best option so I’m not really sure



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,359 Posts
Coaxial supports higher rates than fiber but the Twk 88 doesn't go higher than 48kHz anyway so there's really no difference in this case.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Coaxial supports higher rates than fiber but the Twk 88 doesn't go higher than 48kHz anyway so there's really no difference in this case.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
I’m a newb on understanding a lot of the digital jargon but from the manual it seems like both ports at least go up to 96khtz?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,359 Posts
That's correct but the internal processing is at 48kHz so it doesn't matter what the input is above 48kHz and for reference, the higher rates I was referring to are the ones above 96kHz ... IIRC Toslink won't go over 96kHz in most applications whereas coaxial goes up to 384kHz and beyond.
 
  • Like
Reactions: chrisp2493

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
Maybe I'm doing something wrong buy I prefer coaxial cables because the connection is so much more secure. I feel like the optical cable kind of just slides in and doesn't have much to retain it. I also feel that the coax cable is more robust than the glass fiber if you start bending, crimping it in something. And, if you ever do move to different equipment as stated it will support higher resolution.

Also, I used to disparage dash speakers as well but I experimented in a couple of installs including my 2006 300, and they are now my first choice for location. You might give them a shot before building some bulbous high effort pod on your a-pillar. Or at least compare them since the dash locations already exist.
 
  • Like
Reactions: chrisp2493

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Changed up a few things on the setup and got the majority of the parts ordered. Plus I’ve been getting the sound deadening done. I got the Rockford Fosgate prime R2 500x4 and the 1200x1 amp, and I sent back the Prime R2 300x4 to exchange it for the Punch 400x4 AB class amp instead of the D class Prime. I’m using that for the mids and highs, I don’t think it’s going to make much difference but it should be a nice amp. I move the Punch 8” speakers from the doors to the rear deck, I’m going to use them for differential rear fill with a band pass xover. I read about the Exodus Anarchy 7” mid bass speakers and they seemed to be better suited as a mid bass then the SPL style Punch speakers. I’ll eliminate the rear passenger door 3.5” speakers



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
1 - 20 of 125 Posts
Top