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Couldn’t wait to try them out. I gotta find a good fabric to use for all 3 pieces, I’m thinking something black to match the interior but needs to be stretchy enough to mold over the tweeters
I’ve noticed this set up is super popular. Did you ever consider pointing the mid range at you as opposed to flat. I’m pretty sure I will go with this exact set up myself just curious if you tried other angles. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I didn’t do any extensive testing. I was first planning on a dual piller build with a smaller midrange but decided on the dash speakers after a lot of research in SQ builds. I wanted to get the midrange out as far as possible, and so far it made the stage really deep which is pretty nice. Plus doing dual pods is a lot of work to make look right and to wrap. Getting a mid range speaker pointed on axis that close to the windshield would take a pretty big obstructive pod, and a pretty small mid range speaker. Is it the perfect setup? I can’t say for sure, but I am very happy with the sound so far
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
All wrapped up and installed! Man I sure hate wrapping fabric, what a pain in the butt. Now on to the trunk racks and sub. I’ll have to start measuring for the trunk baffle, and start a new layout for the amp rack. I got a nice Zapco 150.4LX headed my way for the mids and tweets, still waiting on the helix 6 channel amplifier to ship also. I’ll probably end up bridging 4 of the channels of the helix to run the mid bass, and the other 2 for the rear fill. I got the new helix MK2 DSP and director, so I need to get the director integrated into my console. This is finally starting to turn into something
 

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Looks good!!!


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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Making a mounting plate for the director, I plan on securing it in place with magnets on the back side so the dash isn’t cut up and can go right back to factory at any time if needed. I don’t know what to wrap it with though..the black headliner fabric I used on the dash and pillers just doesn’t seem right there. I wonder if it’s possible to have someone match this piece with a 3D printer, or if i should match it on a piece of HDPE instead of wrapping it
 

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2019 VW Jetta GLI
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I redid the mounting brackets and was able to do a much better job then the first time around. I’m so much happier with these then the Rockford punches that’s for sure.



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Only issue with how you have these mounted is your suffocating that driver. I know with your application it is very limited but If I were you I would deff be looking for a better option to move the midbass to... maybe custom kicks... I have my anarchys in custom .30+ kicks sealed... gamechanger
303316
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Only issue with how you have these mounted is your suffocating that driver. I know with your application it is very limited but If I were you I would deff be looking for a better option to move the midbass to... maybe custom kicks... I have my anarchys in custom .30+ kicks sealed... gamechanger View attachment 303316
I have been really thinking about doing kicks, I think I have the room. I might even consider vented kicks. For right now I’m concentrating on the trunk and sub build and getting that all finished. After that, I will consider doing kick panels. I’m not sure if the anarchy’s would be ok in a vented kick or not, I haven’t found many specs available. I saw the peerless SLS8 had a slightly higher QTS which might work better. Not sure yet
 

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Great work. One thing so many forget or just don’t want to spend money on is your insurance. You have done a nice high end job, it would be crazy not to show all your receipts to your insurance company and pay the extra money to have the system covered,
If your car was every ( fingers crossed and god willing that it never happens) you will not be allowed to remove anything that’s bolted down in the car. It will all be gone in a flash
So upgrade your insurance on your car, because your policy does not cover one single penny of your aftermarket system. You have to do what’s called a prorated add on policy


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Great work. One thing so many forget or just don’t want to spend money on is your insurance. You have done a nice high end job, it would be crazy not to show all your receipts to your insurance company and pay the extra money to have the system covered,
If your car was every ( fingers crossed and god willing that it never happens) you will not be allowed to remove anything that’s bolted down in the car. It will all be gone in a flash
So upgrade your insurance on your car, because your policy does not cover one single penny of your aftermarket system. You have to do what’s called a prorated add on policy


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How exactly does getting your equipment insured work?
 

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If you have full car insurance, you call them and tell them that you need to add insurance for your audio system, they will want to see the system in the car and any all all receipts that you have. You can get full replacement at time of lose or what the cost of the system was when you installed it. But sense you did the labor, you won’t get anything for that unless you have a shop write what the labor would be or if you know a shop that would write you a receipt for the labor. And that’s anything from 75 to 150 per hour of man hours


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Discussion Starter · #53 · (Edited)
I got a new tune put in for the new helix DSP and the Zapco 150.4 LX and everything is sounding amazing! Still needs some tweaks and still needs the subwoofer badly but I’m blown away.

One issue I’m having now is some snaps/crackles across the midrange drivers. I had some issues with turn on/off pops getting the helix setup, could those have damaged them? Or is that possibly just noise issues? Everything is still kinda temped in so none of the wiring is very clean, and still using some cheap Crutchfield RCA cables until I get the new ones made. I’m really hoping the speakers aren’t damaged

Edit- I changed the ground selection on the DSP to “Isolated” and they went away. Whew!
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
The isolated ground switch seemed to fix it until I realized I did the comparison with the car being on and off. The next day the noise came back while the car was driving, meaning it was picking up electrical noise. I was trying out having the Topping D10 in the trunk with the rest of the equipment, which meant a longer USB cable to go from the phone to the Topping. Well that USB cable was picking up noise. I moved the topping back up front and made a new coaxial cable from the console to the trunk mounted DSP and that actually fixed all my noise issues for good. Also fixed an issue of having the 12v power feeding the DSP on accessory power instead of constant hit. Since I was losing line voltage when the car was turned completely off, the DSP lost power and couldn’t delay the turn of pop settings. So that’s now fixed as well

Here are some better finished pics of the front end. Now on to building the trunk baffle boards and the amp rack



 

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He is building my system next...

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
All those hours and hours of watching tuning videos are starting to pay off. I got a custom 15" IB sub ordered from Stereo Integrity finally, waiting for it to be built and shipped. In the mean time I threw in an old Kicker CompR12" from my truck to see how it sounds with a sub. I still have a bunch of tuning to iron out, I need to get the gains set again to get alittle more headroom for quieter songs. I have the volume about maxed out on the director at my loudest listening volume, and sometimes some quieter recorded songs just don't cut it. I also have to figure out how to better align my mid-bass to mid-range speakers, I have a dip in the response at the crossover around 200ish I haven't figured out yet
304052
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I have a question on the DSP to amp hookup. With the Rockford mono amp it needs both RCA channels plugged in. What’s the correct way to accomplish it, use an RCA splitter at the amp, or slave 2 channels together in the DSP? I’m currently using 9 out of the 10 available channels on the DSP so I have the room to combine them.
 

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All those hours and hours of watching tuning videos are starting to pay off. I got a custom 15" IB sub ordered from Stereo Integrity finally, waiting for it to be built and shipped. In the mean time I threw in an old Kicker CompR12" from my truck to see how it sounds with a sub. I still have a bunch of tuning to iron out, I need to get the gains set again to get alittle more headroom for quieter songs. I have the volume about maxed out on the director at my loudest listening volume, and sometimes some quieter recorded songs just don't cut it. I also have to figure out how to better align my mid-bass to mid-range speakers, I have a dip in the response at the crossover around 200ish I haven't figured out yet
View attachment 304052
Just at a glance, if I were you along with diving into your phase issues at the crossovers I would attenuate that steep rise you have from 200 down and from the looks of it you have plenty of headroom there to have a more gradual rise all the way to 15 about... 3db per octave is the goal in the lowest octaves but obviously some people like more or however you like it but if you want to be able to experience those lower octaves equally at every level I would shoot for a more gradual rise that peaks at your lowest frequency. Just a thought for ya
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Just at a glance, if I were you along with diving into your phase issues at the crossovers I would attenuate that steep rise you have from 200 down and from the looks of it you have plenty of headroom there to have a more gradual rise all the way to 15 about... 3db per octave is the goal in the lowest octaves but obviously some people like more or however you like it but if you want to be able to experience those lower octaves equally at every level I would shoot for a more gradual rise that peaks at your lowest frequency. Just a thought for ya
Yes I do have some work on the mid bass to get a better rise, it was worse before with a very boomy, resonant midrange. The sub is just an old one I threw in just for some bass, once I get the SI sub installed I’ll spend more time tuning on the bottom end for sure. I’m aiming for a crossover point between mid bass and midrange around 200htz, and made the mistake of tuning the mid bass fairly flat which made way too much volume between 100 and 400 htz. So it’s getting closer to what it needs to be with some more time. With the SI sub in a trunk baffle setup, I’m expecting quite a bit more low end. One thing I noticed though is the Rockford amp has an infrasonic filter and the lowest I can set it is 15 htz, I don’t know if I can bypass it or not.
 

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Be greatful! My dsp has a highpass that cannot be set any lower than 25 and it cant be eliminated either so I'm jealous of that 15hz filter at this point! Well keep up the good work bro. Exactly what your doing is how you learn and get better results. Trial and error.
 
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