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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Here we go with the front sub. I hooked it up temporarily in an old box just to see if it would be worth the effort, and man it sure sounded amazing. It really helps put the kick into the midbass. But it was not easy making the box, trying to get the ring set just in the right place was a challenge





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Here we go with the front sub. I hooked it up temporarily in an old box just to see if it would be worth the effort, and man it sure sounded amazing. It really helps put the kick into the midbass. But it was not easy making the box, trying to get the ring set just in the right place was a challenge





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Hell yeah. If it wasn't for running horns. I'd be seriously considering an up front sub

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Started on the front sub box. It’s a tight fit for sure. I was able to easily add 3x 1/4-20 rib nuts to the crash bar and it holds it pretty solidly





I've always wondered about mounting and that's a genius way to do it.

Also, I'd throw some CLD on the inside of fiberglass part. FG is resonate.

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
I've always wondered about mounting and that's a genius way to do it.

Also, I'd throw some CLD on the inside of fiberglass part. FG is resonate.

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I’ll be adding in some kind of milkshake type resin to the inside of the fiberglass to help deaden it for sure


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Just a thought. I have a friend who's won like every single SQ competition he's entered and he did his build in an interesting way.

He had his midrange/tweet on dash. Midbass in kicks. Front sub and rear sub. Don't think he even vented the kickpanel driver. Reason being, you only need airspace if you're playing a driver down low. He had an up front sub and anything under 300hz in a car is mono anyway due to wavelengths.

So he ran his driver's like so.

Back sub(infinite baffle) 0-50
Front sub 50-150(maybe 200)
Kick panel midbass 200-1k
Midrange 1k-4k
Tweet 4k-20k

And it worked like a charm.

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
Just a thought. I have a friend who's won like every single SQ competition he's entered and he did his build in an interesting way.

He had his midrange/tweet on dash. Midbass in kicks. Front sub and rear sub. Don't think he even vented the kickpanel driver. Reason being, you only need airspace if you're playing a driver down low. He had an up front sub and anything under 300hz in a car is mono anyway due to wavelengths.

So he ran his driver's like so.

Back sub(infinite baffle) 0-50
Front sub 50-150(maybe 200)
Kick panel midbass 200-1k
Midrange 1k-4k
Tweet 4k-20k

And it worked like a charm.

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Yeah I was thinking about running some of the drivers up alittle higher. I’ll have to see how it all looks when I start tuning. Since I have a set of the Stevens MB-8’s for the kicks, I’ll see how high up they will play before I turn it over to the midrange


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Saw you in Peter’s video and liked your portion. I haven’t finished it so don’t tell me the end please! Looking forward to your finished project (although we all know they never end!). I know you mentioned the kicks but don’t remember if you said vented… Vented? And you also mentioned sails instead of the pillars… Is that Peter’s preference? Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing. Dave
 
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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
Saw you in Peter’s video and liked your portion. I haven’t finished it so don’t tell me the end please! Looking forward to your finished project (although we all know they never end!). I know you mentioned the kicks but don’t remember if you said vented… Vented? And you also mentioned sails instead of the pillars… Is that Peter’s preference? Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing. Dave
Thanks man! You might be surprised when you get to the end…..my plan is vented kicks, I will take some measurements just to see first with them sealed up. I don’t need them to play low with the front sub taking care of the heavier midbass. I’m considering the sail panels, that was from doing a demo in a similiar car at a SQ competition that had his tweets in the sail, it helped widen the stage on the driver side instead of stopping at the piller. Still debating on that right now


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Thanks man! You might be surprised when you get to the end…..my plan is vented kicks, I will take some measurements just to see first with them sealed up. I don’t need them to play low with the front sub taking care of the heavier midbass. I’m considering the sail panels, that was from doing a demo in a similiar car at a SQ competition that had his tweets in the sail, it helped widen the stage on the driver side instead of stopping at the piller. Still debating on that right now


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Guess I gotta go finish watching it! Yours was by far nicer and I’m about two hours in.
Anyway like everything it’s a trade off. You’re moving the tweeter further from the mid and closer to you at the same time. Sails are just adding a little width. Not to mention running additional wires through the friggin molex connected. A buddy went from dash to sails to pillars and I heard it plenty in all three iterations and sails was my least favorite. Anyway you have the skills so either way I’m sure will be killer!
 
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Oh dude congrats! Sweet! Didn’t realize it was by drawing. Lucky you! Mind sharing what y’all decided on to help your system? And tell me about his patrion if you don’t mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
Oh dude congrats! Sweet! Didn’t realize it was by drawing. Lucky you! Mind sharing what y’all decided on to help your system? And tell me about his patrion if you don’t mind.
Yep just a lucky drawing. You know, honestly I’m having a hard time deciding, I really have everything I need right now. I was thinking maybe a better midbass designed for IB like a micro precision 5 series, but with the front sub I don’t need the midbass to play low anymore so the Stevens MB-8’s should be fine. I might be able to use more sound deadening materials, or maybe just set up a consultation call or some help with remote tuning, I’m still deciding.
If you enjoy his YouTube videos, his Patreon videos are even more in depth. He does a weekly topic video, guys submit questions and he randomly picks 1 or 2 and goes over them for 20-30 minutes. Very helpful, lots of information. He has some more tuning/RTA videos from the various project cars, but still basically a vague overview of the finished project. As you can probably understand, he still keeps some of the techniques to himself. I still enjoy it and it’s been well worth it in my opinion
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
They say once you go floor, you never go door again, and I can see why. The enclosures are about .23 cubic feet sealed with a Stevens Audio MB-8 2 ohm driver on Zapco 150.4LX. The comparison are my old Anarchy 704 7” drivers in the doors. The right side was decent in the doors, but the driver side had the usual cancelations and never really summed perfectly with the dash mids. Yes, I did EQ it with a heavy rising response, I am trying out a heavier lower midrange tune for heavy metal/deathcore, and I’ll have another tune for SQ type music that’s much flatter. I still need to finish the fabric wrap and some touch up, but they are finally playing after months of waiting





 

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I ran 10in midbass in kicks vented outside. These were my measurements.

I believe that the giant lower midrange gain is from the super small enclosure and the small amount of air inside it of it resonating while the kick panels generally having a large gain in that area as well. What does nearfield look like?



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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
I ran 10in midbass in kicks vented outside. These were my measurements.

I believe that the giant lower midrange gain is from the super small enclosure and the small amount of air inside it of it resonating while the kick panels generally having a large gain in that area as well. What does nearfield look like?



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I need to grab a near field measurement just to see. I know these speakers are designed more for infinite baffle in doors, but I figured I would give it a shot sealed before I cut anything. I wonder if I opened them up if they would play alittle more flat so I wouldn’t have to EQ so much


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I need to grab a near field measurement just to see. I know these speakers are designed more for infinite baffle in doors, but I figured I would give it a shot sealed before I cut anything. I wonder if I opened them up if they would play alittle more flat so I wouldn’t have to EQ so much


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I had the same drivers as you. Did some testing before.

First pic was totally sealed. Nearfield

2nd pic was opened up venting outside. Possibly nearfield. might be at ear tho.


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