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Discussion Starter #1
So, figured I may as well start my build thread, although I'm about 50% installed already.

The equipment:

Head unit: I am keeping the factory head unit (730N, RHR). Why? A few reasons.
#1 is the supposed performance of the JBL MS8 in factory head unit installations. I haven't heard a bad thing about them yet.
#2 Cost. Ideally, an aftermarket HU & MS8 would be the way to go...unfortunately to get the options I like on the factory HU (bluetooth, wireless streaming, nav, steering wheel controls, etc etc) it would run me over a grand, on top of the MS8. I just can't afford to do it. I should also note that I have added the lockpick, for multiple camera inputs and DVD in motion.
#3 Appearance. My install will be completely stealth.

Processor/LOC/Equalizer: JBL MS8 Why?

#1. From what I've read, it's by far the best option when retaining the factory HU. No noise issues, etc that plague some of the other brands, at least from what I've read.
#2. Flexibility. This thing has 8 output channels, each with its own customizable crossover. It also has an internal amplifier (20WX8 RMS) if you chose to go that way.
#3. I don't know how to tune a vehicle for sound quality. The MS8 does it for me. As long as I do a proper install, and choose good equipment I'm hoping it gives me great sound quality.

Next....Speakers...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Love the user name... those were some funny movies. Lookin forward to the build log. I love truck builds.
:D He was a funny guy, Mr. Nielsen. RIP

Front Speakers
I stressed over this decision for weeks. Unfortunately for me, I don't have the time/proximity to shops to give all the brands I wanted to test out a proper listen. I actually really like the sound that the factory system puts out, I just wanted to make it clearer, louder, and more dynamic.

I had toyed with the idea of a three ways system to bring as much midbass up into the dash as I could, however, I wasn't in love with the idea of having the tweeters exposed, and the price was getting up there.

What I ended up going with: XR Duo from Audible physics. It is a 6.5"/3" driver set.

Why I chose it: I was inspired by this thread, and the results.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-member-build-logs/107622-pleasantly-surprised-2010-dodge-ram-regular-cab-sq-installl.html

*Bing and crew - I will be using a lot of your ideas from that thread. I am in no way trying to pass these ideas off as my own.*

I also loved the idea of going tweeterless. I got a great (IMO) price, (thanks Mark!) which also helped in the decision. These will be crossed over by the MS8, I'm thinking ~300hz crossover point @ 24 db.

Rear Fill

Originally I wasn't going to replace the rear door speakers, I was just going to feed them off the MS8 internal amp. I decided to do an amplified rear fill when I started reading more about the "Logic 7" surround sound from the MS8, and how it kinda needed equal power levels to all speakers. I'm not a fan of listening to music in surround sound, but apparently this Logic 7 sounds good. Also the CK6 Midbass won't hurt either.

What I chose - Massive Audio CK6

Why? Value/Price. Good set of speakers, bought used for less than $150. (Thanks Vitty)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Amps: Mounting the amps behind the rear seat. A little info on how to gain access to your rear wall on the Gen 4's without having to raise or remove the sea

1. Remove the seat. Each side is held down by 4 - 18mm head bolts. I used a breaker bar then a Ratchet.



2. When you fold the seat down, you'll see the clips. I don't have a clear pic of one before cutting. I would recommend using a hacksaw and taping the plastic guide to the metal so it doesn't break like it did on me. If you look closely at the plastic guide, you'll see two ridges. I cut the metal right in line with the second (lower) ridge. This was the perfect length. Cut longer the first time if you're not sure.



3. Reinstall the seat with the back folded down, test it out.





Heres a pic of the seat folded down, in the locked position. You can see how much of the latch is still engaged. That's why I say no worries about safety.

 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Amps

I had space to spare, and I wanted good, cheap, clean power. All amps were bought used either through ebay, or through various car audio forums.

I chose:

Massive NX2
(120WX2 RMS) for the front 3" drivers. (Thanks Mike Troll)
Massive Audio HD1600.4 (160WX4 RMS) for the Front Door drivers and the rear components. (Thanks BanHammer)

Why Massive? Good, cheap clean power! I was also dying to try out those tiny nano amps.

And for the sub channel, I picked up an older JL 500/1 (v1) off ebay for an unbeatable price. I had to have a JL piece in there somewhere...

I still need to run the RBC for the JL, and the set screw for the remote wire is stripped. I have the easyout, I just need to get around to doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Subwoofer and Enclosure.

I actually use the 1/3rd seat under seating storage area for booster cables, tie downs, etc. It was very hard to find a box that replaced the 2/3rd seat only. Foxbox had one but you have to raise the seat. I decided to try my hand at fiberglassing.

Subwoofer I chose was a 12" Image Dynamics IDQ V3 Dual 4 ohm I figure there is around 1.0-1.25 ft3 of cubic feet in the fiberglass enclosure and the ID seemed like a good pick for sound quality.

Finally, here are some build pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Sub box

Some info on this box: The baffle is made of 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF stacked on top of eachother. This is the maximum thickness that you can have due to the height. It rubs a little bit when folding the seat up and down, near the rear of the box. I also don't think you want your sub any closer to the bottom of the seat than that.

As far as fitting a 12" in there, I had no issues with the IDQ depth wise, but there is very little play with respect to front to back movement, it kind of looks awkward sitting so close to the front, but there is literally like 1/2" of play in that direction.

I need to buy a grille, for two reasons:

1. Protection in the case of groceries, etc. being stacked on top of the speaker.
2. To keep the sub from hitting the bottom of the seat and creating unwanted noise....the bottom of the seat is very flexible and I'm sure the grille will give enough room for subwoofer excursion.


Pics:

Cardboard template



Dual layer of masking tape (I sprayed with Pam, it still pulled up a lot of tape when I removed the enclosure)


First coat of glass done. I had a bit of a learning curve using glass, trying to keep the bubbles/mesh down and flat. You can see I was a little sloppy after the first coat.



 

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Discussion Starter #13
Great work on the enclosure. Lookin' good so far.
Thanks.

Ground wire. Ran it through the subfloor and attached to the frame.

I drilled a hole right beside the rear outside seat hold down bolt, and there was a very short run to the frame. I used a #12X1.5" metal screw to hold it in.







Sprayed with bedliner/undercoat:



View of it coming up through the sub floor to the dist. block. You can see what I was going to use as a ground location before...I think the frame ground is better? There is a tiny grommet in the subfloor, I will seal up with a bit of clear silicone.

 

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Discussion Starter #16
^^^

Thanks guys.

Did a little fabricating the other day. I suppose I should mention where I am at, at this current time.

Where I'm currently at:

Amps/rack are installed. The MS8 that I recieved did not work properly from the factory. On initial testing I experienced the following issues:

  • Power stayed on all the time, even with remote wire disconnected
  • While troubleshooting above issue, power light stayed on when ground was disconnected. Unit was being grounded through mounting screws?
  • REM out from MS8 sent amps into protection? Normal acc wire and amps ran fine
  • No display on screen
So that fukkers back to the manufacturer for repair/exchange. Until I get that back I have no sound.

Waiting on the XR Duo Drivers as well. Long story but I was going to run the CK6's in the front until I recieved the XR's, now with the MS8 out of commission I have left the CK6 midbass in the front doors. Once the XR's arrive I will install all speakers in their proper place.

Sub box complete. Test ran off the 500/1 with a schochse LOC from Walmart. Sounds good. Too much for the factory system.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Baffles.

Like I mentioned in the above post, I was going to use the CK6's in the front doors until I got shipment of the XR Duo's. I had made some baffles out of 1/2" MDF but I decided to use 1/8" hardboard instead. I just felt that the speakers were waay too close to the door grille with 1/2". Add that I want to mount the CK6 braxially and I don't have enough clearance.

Here's the former baffles I used with the CK6 in the door. (tweeters didn't fit in the tweeter hole, sealed with dynamat extreme.

 
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