Factory a Bose unit?
yes, I haven't really read up on how to bypass it yet for the stereo, and still retain everything else it runs. but it's not a deal breaker to bypass it entirely.Factory a Bose unit?
That's a bold statement, that I don't agree with. Oftentimes, 3-way is better, but not always. It has to do with the quality of speakers used, and how it's all tuned. I love a good 2-way setup for simplicity, and cost, and I would put my 2-way up against most people's 3-way setups any day.3-way is always the best. My last truck had 3 way active front. Going back to 2-way active was a noticeable downgrade but at least running the Key with some higher end drivers still keeps my music enjoyable!
I don't know what your budget for amps/DSP, after you factor in time and cabling and space constraints, something like the JL Audio VXi amps might be worth looking at.
I'm cheap, and really appreciate value and simplicity. I've run great 3-way setups but find that a well excecuted 2-way sounds nearly as good in a car. I don't really do a lot of engine off, critical listening in the car, and at 40mph the differences end up being pretty small. I like clean, tidy, simple builds whenever possible. Plus, I like the tuning process, so I'd rather spend my time doing something fun, than spend the money I earned by doing something a lot less fun.I won't disagree with you. I did a Civic coupe with Scan D3004s in the sails and AD W600s in a modified door panel to bring them more on axis and they just tuned perfect. Gave the 3 way in my Jeep a run for it's money. I will also not deny that I find slapping a midrange up in the sail or pillar "easy mode" when tuning. I have heard some 2-way setups that sounded incredible, but they all used kicks, custom door panels, larger format tweeters or widebands. I haven't had the pleasure of sitting in a vehicle using factory speaker locations where a 2-way sounded as good as those cars. Not that I'm denying the ability, I just have no first hand experience.