[jrobie79]

Finally found an Alpine x208u for a reasonable price for my 2011 Escalade, and before I install it, I decided to add a sub and upgrade the front stage. Looking for mainly SQ.

I will be building a custom sealed enclosure in between the second row captains chairs that will double as pseudo console (absolutely need the cargo space with 3rd row removed) but I don't want it to be extremely tall, so I'm looking for a fairly shallow depth 12" SQ sub.

Budget ≤ $400, not including amp (Small footprint amp recommendations welcome as well, it's going to be mounted under the captains seats).

Also want to upgrade the front stage to passive components (I'm building an active 3 way front stage in my other car, dont want to deal with that on this vehicle). I'd like to utilize the stock tweeter locations in the A pillars which are off axis, photos attached. I'll be sealing the doors for the midwoofer. Stock size is 6-3/4" but I'm open to larger for better performance, I'm fairly comfortable modifying the door to fit larger. A 3 way set isn't out of the question, I could put the midrange in the stock tweeter location and mount the tweeters in the sail panel on the doors.

Budget ≤ $400, not including amp (Small amp recommendations as well, same location as sub amp, just under the other seat) budget doesn't include amp.

Anyone other tips, suggestions, or comments are welcome if you've done something similar in a full size GMT900 SUV

 

[Thor23278]

Factory a Bose unit?

 

[jrobie79]

Factory a Bose unit?

yes, I haven't really read up on how to bypass it yet for the stereo, and still retain everything else it runs. but it's not a deal breaker to bypass it entirely.

 

[Thor23278]

You'll end up spending another $300 on a PAC harness just in getting every thing adapted to your car. If you don't care about OnStar and your warning chimes, and want to run new wiring bypassing the Bose system, you can get by with just a steering wheel control module to spend less.

Sounds like you're just wanting something quick and easy, so no DSP, correct? I'm doing the same until I have the time for a proper install in my Jeep. Take a look at the Kicker Key 200.4. Very small form factor (It's in my dash behind the radio) and does a pretty damn good job for auto EQ and TA. Just have to play around with the included mic a bit to find the sweet spot for your listening location. The bi-amp mode allows you to run a 2 way active front. Cuts the Tweeters at 3200k, so you'll want to pick a midbass with good response up that high. Morel Tempo Ultra and Audiofrog G60S are the only comp sets in that budget I've heard that seemed worth the cost. Morel's are a little more though.

Only shallow subs I've heard are the Audiomobile 12" svc and I got the chance to listen to an IDQS 10" dvc just yesterday. Both sealed. I remember the Audiomobile sub sounding really clean, but it was so long ago I cannot objectively compare it to the IDQS. The IDQS sounded very precise, and it's likely I'm going to be using one myself in the near future. As for the sub amp in small form factor, I have a Kicker Key 500.1 that I have yet to use so can't give any impressions of it other than it is very small. It will flatten out and correct the source signal so it's great for me tapping into a factory headunit like I'm doing, but something you probably won't need with the signal off the Alpine. Could use a cheaper NVX VADM1. Both are [email protected], so dvc sub would be best.

 

[jrobie79]

So I do have a Maestro ADS-MRR2 module retain all factory options, because I plan on installing the Alpine unit this weekend, and the main build is probably a month or two down the road. I guess if I could find a cheap enough DSP I am open to it. No sense not at this point, and then running full 3 way front stage active.

 

[Thor23278]

3-way is always the best. My last truck had 3 way active front. Going back to 2-way active was a noticeable downgrade but at least running the Key with some higher end drivers still keeps my music enjoyable!

I don't know what your budget for amps/DSP, after you factor in time and cabling and space constraints, something like the JL Audio VXi amps might be worth looking at.

 

[gijoe]

3-way is always the best. My last truck had 3 way active front. Going back to 2-way active was a noticeable downgrade but at least running the Key with some higher end drivers still keeps my music enjoyable!

I don't know what your budget for amps/DSP, after you factor in time and cabling and space constraints, something like the JL Audio VXi amps might be worth looking at.

That's a bold statement, that I don't agree with. Oftentimes, 3-way is better, but not always. It has to do with the quality of speakers used, and how it's all tuned. I love a good 2-way setup for simplicity, and cost, and I would put my 2-way up against most people's 3-way setups any day.

 

[Thor23278]

I won't disagree with you. I did a Civic coupe with Scan D3004s in the sails and AD W600s in a modified door panel to bring them more on axis and they just tuned perfect. Gave the 3 way in my Jeep a run for it's money. I will also not deny that I find slapping a midrange up in the sail or pillar "easy mode" when tuning. I have heard some 2-way setups that sounded incredible, but they all used kicks, custom door panels, larger format tweeters or widebands. I haven't had the pleasure of sitting in a vehicle using factory speaker locations where a 2-way sounded as good as those cars. Not that I'm denying the ability, I just have no first hand experience.

 

[gijoe]

I won't disagree with you. I did a Civic coupe with Scan D3004s in the sails and AD W600s in a modified door panel to bring them more on axis and they just tuned perfect. Gave the 3 way in my Jeep a run for it's money. I will also not deny that I find slapping a midrange up in the sail or pillar "easy mode" when tuning. I have heard some 2-way setups that sounded incredible, but they all used kicks, custom door panels, larger format tweeters or widebands. I haven't had the pleasure of sitting in a vehicle using factory speaker locations where a 2-way sounded as good as those cars. Not that I'm denying the ability, I just have no first hand experience.

I'm cheap, and really appreciate value and simplicity. I've run great 3-way setups but find that a well excecuted 2-way sounds nearly as good in a car. I don't really do a lot of engine off, critical listening in the car, and at 40mph the differences end up being pretty small. I like clean, tidy, simple builds whenever possible. Plus, I like the tuning process, so I'd rather spend my time doing something fun, than spend the money I earned by doing something a lot less fun.

 

[Kpierce1986]

There's a hertz ml power 5 for sale in the classified section right now. Very compact and has 550w on the sub channel. He's only asking $400.

HERTZ Mille Power 5- channel Amplifier (clean)

Nice little 5 channel amplifier which has good sound quality. This can run fronts active and bang a 10" subwoofer easily. Amplifier has 5months of light use, its clean and in great technical condition. It is never abused and zero repairs ever done. Price: 400$shipped +paypal fees 3 days to your...

www.diymobileaudio.com

 

[Kpierce1986]

There is also a guy local to me on OfferUp selling two audison shallow 10s for $450. Never heard them but I've read good things.

Check out this item on OfferUp. https://offerup.co/Hvhj1bATcnb

 

[Cisco473]

I just picked up a stealth box to go under the center console for my 2007 Tahoe. It’s also got the Bose which I will eventually get rid of. I am debating doing almost the same thing as you. Gb25’s in the current tweeter location and gb10’s to give me the 3 way set up. I want to stay stealth but not sure if it’ll sound good that way or if I’m wasting money. I’m going a jl 10tw3 that will give just enough low end to keep me satisfied. Good luck with your build!


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