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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, I have been a long time lurker and have used this site as a great source of information in the past. I've installed a few of my own car audio systems over the years and I think its high time to share my most recent adventure.

I am about to start my highest end system to date. While it pales in comparison to many on here, it is a good step for me. Let's call it a mild SQ build..... I have been amassing some equipment for this build and I will taking a dive into the next evolution in my car audio abilities. I am slowly teaching myself in depth understanding of audio tuning and hopefully I will get out of this build what my goal is. I hope I can learn anything from anyone who would like to contribute and look forward to sharing.

Here is the what my build consists of...

Stock entune Nav headunit
AudioControl D-4.800
AudioControl LC-1.800
AudioControl ACR-3
Morel Hybrid 602
JL Audio 12W6V3
KnuKonceptz distribution block
WireandSupply 1 awg OFC welding cable
WireandSupply 4 awg OFC welding cable
NVX 4 awg OFC Tinned power cable
HDPE Speaker Adapters
ABS Tweeter Adapters
Second Skin Damplifier
SoundSkins Pro
Speaker/Tweeter Rings
Custom Length Sub Channel RCA (Old Monster Cable 301 XLN)
16 awg OFC Speaker Wire
12 awg OFC Speaker Wire
Custom under seat amp racks (combo of Starboard and ABS)
Test box
Neutrik Speakon Male and Female Connectors

A couple specialized pieces of equipment I picked up for this build and other things.

Cross-Spectrum Calibrated MiniDSP Mic
Handheld Oscilloscope

My goal for this build is to get some tuning experience. I will be running the Morels active and there will be no rear fill. My previous build in a 2005 4Runner consisted of Pioneer headunit, Focal Flax speakers with JL Audio Amp and Sub. I was about to install an Audison BitTen DSP when it was rear ended and totaled. I was going to install the Audison in this build, but decided to go another route. I wanted simplicity and I really liked the AudioControl amps and couldnt bring myself to shell out for the new JL Audio amps (seriously JL...... VXI prices??? :laugh::laugh: good luck with that).

I will be using some speed wire to from the headunit to the D-4.800 with the custom length RCA to the sub amp. The amps will sit on a pair of custom made amp racks that I almost have competed. These will keep the amps out of moisture and dirt and allow the lower vents to still operate. The power will be run 1 awg to the fuse/distribution block with 4 awg going to each amp down each side of the vehicle. This was the easiest option based on my setup in my opinion. I will be running neutrik connectors for my sub box (I have a pro audio background and these are the standard) for when I need to remove the sub for vehicle capacity. The sub box is a 1 cu. ft. sealed for placement configuration tests, but I might be leaning towards a down firing sealed setup. The Sounds Skins is on the outer door skin and the SecondSkins will have inner door duty since it has the acoustic foam layer. I will also probably use some of the Second Skin on the inner door panel with a layer of jute. I have foam rings for the Morel woofers and will make custom rings for the tweeters. The ACR-3 will have a nice home in the center dash cubbyhole. This 4Runner year has a cover that will keep it out of site when I don't need access to it. Once everything is installed, I will be using the DSP software with REW and the calibrated mic to tune and plan on having a couple presets for listening positions etc.

This is a big step in tuning for me and I hope to learn a lot. I really enjoy this and have had great time in my years in pro audio. I will try and share as many photos as I can.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Well I know that a build thread without photos is no fun and gets no views. I was able to put some time into the build over the last couple days and thought i would share.

The locations for the amps are under the front seats. The D-4.800 is going under the drivers seat and the LC-1.800 is going under the passenger seat.

I built amp racks to allow the rear floor vents to remain functional. Keep the kids cool and warm. They also keep the amps elevated so they don't get wet. I made them out of starboard and ABS. Its much easier to bend 1/8 ABS than 1/4 starboard.

I also am preparing the speaker adapters for the Morel drivers. I made some shrouds out of a drain guard i picked up at the hardware store. I cut it apart and removed the grate portion. i will do some more trimming once I get to the door install. I will drill and tap the adapter to mount the shrouds.

I finished my adapter harness. I used male and female adapter harnesses and some speedwire. I de-pinned the harnesses going back into the vehicle harness since the speaker leads weren't needed. I crimped some ferrules onto the ends and finished it all up with some Tesa tape, braided wire sleeve and heat shrink. I used my trust Mac Tools Tektronix Multimeter with some new leads I bought to test all the connections. I've had this multimeter for 22 years now.... The only thing that I wasn't too impressed with on the AudioControl amps is the line level inputs. They are tiny tiny.

I also completed my power wire run and fuse/distribution block holder. The mount is made out of starboard. I'm running two 4 AWG power wires for each amp with 80 amp fuses on each run. The mount is long so that the power wires can be secured.

So much more to go, but i am getting there piece by piece. More to come.
 

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Additional Photos
 

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I was able to get some more work done on the build. There is always so much to be done outside of car audio.......

I completed my subwoofer cable and got it installed.



Coming from Pro Audio, i fully believe in Neutrik Speakon connectors. I used 12 AWG OFC speaker wire I had just sitting around.





I also had to build another set of legs for my amp rack. I didn't like the way the starboard had been bent after heating. It really doesn't like to be molded quite like ABS. I use a combination of Jig Saw and blade scoring of the 1/8 abs to start making my required template. Then I set the plastic up on a sharp edge and start heating the piece with my heat gun.



Finished product.....



Now i just need to secure it to the starboard.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
As I am moving into the speaker install and finishing up the door deadening, I pulled out the Morel Hybrids to get some figures I need.









Since I am running active, I wanted to get some figures and DCR readings for capacitors for the tweeters.



The MT230 tweeters are 6 ohms and measured at 5.28 ohms DC on each one. I used a capacitor calculator and determined that a 17uf non-polarized electrolytic capacitor should give me protection to 1771.39 hz @ 5.28 ohms. I think I am going to start my first crossover point on these at double the Fs. Since Fs is 1200, I am going to start at 2400hz crossover point with a 24db slope (have to start somewhere). Morel is crossing over at 2200 hz with different slopes. My minimal understanding of tuning shows that the tweeter might be 90 degrees out of phase to the woofer?

If i ran a 12uf and a 6.8uf capacitor in parallel, it would be almost perfectly 1600 hz @ 5.28 ohms. I dont know if this will really matter, but if I feel like the 17uf capacitor is affecting the sound I will adjust from there. 17uf is cheaper to start. I am still trying to learn, so hopefully I get it right on the first try.

I think the AudioControl D-4.800 will be a good match for power on the Morel's active. It should get me the power I need for the tweeter and woofer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've finally been able to get a little bit more done on the build. No one really seems to care, but I'll keep updating anyway in case this gives helps someone else for their 5th Gen. 4Runner build.

I mounted the shrouds to my speaker adapters. I drilled and tapped the adapters and used some weather stripping to seal the two pieces.



I also mounted the tweeter pods to the adapters. The tweeters will sit perfectly aligned in the dash and with some weather stripping, they will be fully sealed to the grills.



I also worked on the amp racks. I positioned the amps and set the mounting t-nuts. I used a heat gun and a screw to pull the t-nuts into the ABS and Starboard. I also started drilling my tie down holes for the wires.




 

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I used an old box for the 12w6v3. It is exactly at JL's recommended sealed enclosure. This is going to be my test box for positioning. I plan to make some different mounts to find the best orientation. I want to try down-firing. Once I'm happy with how I want the sub I will build a better box and maybe bump up the box volume a bit to get some additional testing.

I put in a speakon terminal for ease of removal. I've worked this box over and it is sealed tight......




 

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Today I worked on the final door deadening. Not my most favorite thing in the world to do. I already used Second Skin Damplifier on the inside of the door a while back. Today I used some Second Skin Damplifier over the access holes before i put the Soundskins Pro over the whole door. I am really impressed with Soundskins Pro. Its pretty easy to work with and is really high quality. It really changed the imaging and the door is solid and noticeably heavier now. It's slowly making that horrible stock speaker sound better and better.....

 

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Today I worked on the final door deadening. Not my most favorite thing in the world to do. I already used Second Skin Damplifier on the inside of the door a while back. Today I used some Second Skin Damplifier over the access holes before i put the Soundskins Pro over the whole door. I am really impressed with Soundskins Pro. Its pretty easy to work with and is really high quality. It really changed the imaging and the door is solid and noticeably heavier now. It's slowly making that horrible stock speaker sound better and better.....





Will you have this done by the 31st?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Today I worked on the final door deadening. Not my most favorite thing in the world to do. I already used Second Skin Damplifier on the inside of the door a while back. Today I used some Second Skin Damplifier over the access holes before i put the Soundskins Pro over the whole door. I am really impressed with Soundskins Pro. Its pretty easy to work with and is really high quality. It really changed the imaging and the door is solid and noticeably heavier now. It's slowly making that horrible stock speaker sound better and better.....





Will you have this done by the 31st?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm sure trying. I really want it done, but family and work come first.
 

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Got to work on the other door this weekend. I got some more shots of before and after. The dealership had been in the door before and this is how they dealt with the plastic barrier..... Nice!



Here is how i get this stuff off. A sharp blade makes short work of it.



After



Here are some shots of the Second Skin Damplifier I installed previously.



 

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Installed the SoundSkins Pro after some Second Skin Damplifier over the access holes.






Some of the wiring before running into the door and up to the dash mounts.

 

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Put a bit of SecondSkins Pro on the adapters and drilled the holes for the speaker wires.




Got the Sub Amp installed as well.......






Here is how the amp rack works with the WeatherTech rear floor mats.



I picked up the hardware to mount the Morel Hybrids and will hopefully have the 4 channel DSP amp mounted next weekend and the speakers installed. I need to pull the center console and get everything situated and the speed wire harness hooked up. I really hope I get to finally hear this soon.

Then comes the tuning!
 

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Very well done, sir. Great attention to detail.
 
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