[Jhperez81]

I'm using and SSI and cl441 cleansweep. So hopefully i'll be good tapping into only front two tweets and front two mids, not tapping into sub.

Then just hooking into front ch input on XD700/5, set amp for 2CH, and run in tri-amplified.

 

[Jhperez81]

Mike, have you ever messed with the center channel speaker in the Fords with the sony 10 speaker system?

 

[Extreme Audio Mike]

No, we sure haven't

 

[Jhperez81]

Thanks for all your help Mike. Any way I could get the stereo schematics for my 2013 F250?

 

[What?]

We have also attempted the LCQ-1 to Ford Sony F150 install. The digital noise was crazy. In Toyota Tundras, there are loud snaps and channels go out, etc on the stock non-jbl deck as well. However, you should be able to use the JL Audio CL-LSA $13 in front of the LCQ-1 so the factory deck/amp sees a load.

 

[07chino]

I am new to this forum but I am about to install same set-up I have the CL-SSI and the LCQ-1 and notice you guys said not to use the sub signal from amp where do we get it from sorry if its a dumb question I'm just a little confused...

 

[KBT2011]

I've got a 13 with sony and am about to start a build, I've done a non sony before....to the above poster, wouldn't you just send the FR, FL, RR, RL signals to the SSI, then those same to your LCQ1, and let the LCQ1 do the work for "adding" a sub so to speak?

So anyway to OP - a safe way to go about doing these installs is going from factory amp to JL SSI, then to an LCQ1, then to your amps? Any tips for the molex connectors they look like hell.

 

[MiloX]

Nice truck.

Love the box.

 

[13TuxEco]

Sorry to the open the thread I have the sony factory 10 speaker system with all the goodies. How would installing the aftermarket alpine ktp-445? It's a simple plug and play. Then I thought I would tap into the subwoofer with a lc2i for a sub under the seats ? Looking for a simple install ? I've already replaced the factory speakers with kicker dx's 6x8

 

[Extreme Audio Mike]

Sorry everyone, for some reason I wasn't getting notifications that there were now posts on this thread. I just happened to sign on and look for this link to send to someone else.

13TuxEco, I don't think you would gain much by upgrading to one of the power packs? I'm not 100% sure, because we didn't really test the output wattage of the factory amp on the regular front and rear channels, but I would think they would at least be close to the KTP445?

07Chino, The front door channels on the 12 were full range, so they were really the only thing we needed for the entire install.

KBT2011, If you can find some info that states the 2012 and the 2013 are the same then it should be a safe bet. As another poster listed you should be able to use the CL-LSA from JL instead of the SSI if the front channels are still full range.

 

[big_harv]

Can you elaborate on the need for the ssi? The LCQ-1 has 20k ohm impedance on the input channels which would surely show the factory amp a "load". Also, if not using the subwoofer outputs and disconnecting the factory sub, this would cause that amp channel to have no load. I am not trying to dump on your install because it looks very clean, but I can't seem to wrap my head around the logic for installing the ssi. Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I am attempting to install a similar setup after miserable results with the MS-8.

 

[Extreme Audio Mike]

No problem at all. There were multiple reasons for the SSI at the time, and its very possible that you could do without it, as long as you have the time to take care of it should you run into issues down the road.

Prior to doing the install, I did our usual "fishing" for info among our large network of 12v friends. Any time you can get some time saving tidbits before starting an install, it's obviously very valuable. One of our good friends relayed an experience he had with a Raptor Sony system, where the amp started oscillating randomly while driving down the road, that was fixed when something was added to show the amplifier a load as if a speaker was hooked up (20k ohm is not remotely close to say a 4ohm load). At the time, thinking there would be a decent amount of summing involved as well, the SSI was chosen to avoid the potential of having this issue. He had also mentioned the miserably distorted sub channel, to which he was dead on. You have to consider two main things, the source of the info is a former Installer of the Year, and the individual we did the work for lives 2 1/2 hours away. We couldn't risk everything seeming to be fine, and then it gives him issues later.

After having gone through the signals and found some of the distortion levels we did, we could have skipped the summing aspect and used the simpler load devices that JL makes for the Cleansweep mentioned earlier.

If you have the time to risk, and you're doing the install yourself, I would encourage trying without and see for yourself. The previous install has led to blown tweeters for the other retailer, so we couldn't risk it. You could probably hear the issue and turn it right off and add the parts later yourself if needed.

I also have experienced many of the Ford Sony's are different than this one, so if you have a different year the system may be completely different.

Just out of interest, what issues did you have with the MS-8?

 

[big_harv]

The issues with the MS-8 I believe was in the DE-Equalizer function of the MS-8. The problem was the Sony amplifier sends a much weaker signal in the tweeter (I believe) than the mid-range. I ran the calibration many times and it always created a clipped high frequency signal. My tweeters were scratchy and popping after the calibration process due to what I believe was an extreme boosting of the high frequency. I identified the problem in the calibration process because I attempted the same thing skipping the calibration process and the symptoms would be gone. But not running the calibration caused other problems, like missing channels since I had 4 inputs but I was only getting 2 of the 4 outputs. I also discovered that the time alignment caused feedback over the phone to the recipient as well as the turn on thump problem. Needless to say, the MS-8 caused a few miserable weekends for me before I decided to return it. I do believe the MS-8 has great potential but I just don't believe it has the compatibility with the Sony Premium system. The results may have been different if I used something to sum and level match the signals to input into the MS-8, but those features were supposed to be included in the product, which to me seems like a major design flaw.

I have since installed the LCQ-1 and it was essentially plug and play since I had already ran the wiring for the MS-8, my amp, sub, and front components. It took all of about 5 minutes to get the thing working correctly. I still have to make the fine adjustments to get the sound quality where I want it to be but overall I am very happy with it so far. At ~$200 for the LCQ-1 and ~$600 for the MS-8 my expectation were very high for the MS-8.

 

[dutchman79]

Extreme Audio Mike, Did you find a full range signal using the front mids and tweeters, or did you need to sum all 4 doors and tweeters to acquire a full range signal?

I am about to start a project on a 2014 F150 Platinum with Sony MyFord Sync system.

I plan on using a Audison Bit One for summing/EQing, and it seems I will need a JL CL-LSA for speaker load detection. Is anyone familiar with the Bit One and load sensing? Not sure if I need the CL-LSA or not.

 

[sclemmer]

Would you mind sharing where you guys got power for the SSI as well as the LCQ? About to start a build of my own and curious as where the best place to get power to these devices is.

 

[MiloX]

If you are tapping the signal under the console you will find constant and switched down there.

 

[sclemmer]

Any idea which wire to tap for switched power?

 

[MiloX]

There's a yellow wire in one of the harnesses that connects to the upfitter switch box. Just check with your meter first.

 

[matt68]

My name Is Matt and I was wondering if you could help me.I have a 2010 ford f150 platinum.I had A CLSSI installed,along with a lcq1 to a Jl 4/600 amp.My speakers are 2 sets of image dynamics in front doors and image dynamics in rear doors,for a total of 6 speakers.and a stealth box for sub.Any way I kept the stock head unit and the system was set up exactly like the Ford Raptor on this post.The problem is that my front door speakers have very little mid bass playing on them.At one time, I had them hooked up to a lc6i and they played amazing and the signal got lost so I tried the jlclssi and lcq1 to help bring back the mid bass and the speakers still have very liitle punch ,if any at all.The installer tried everything and they still sound bad,the installer said the stock amp and head unit is the problem.Could someone please give me some help on this.There is no mid bass on my front door speakers.