Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1

I finished my JL system install a few weeks ago and thought I would share how I did it. Here is the list of equipment that was installed:

4 volt preouts
motorized removable faceplate
XD6001 Class D 600 watt RMS at 2 ohm x1 Mono
XD4004 Class D 400 watt RMS 4 Channel
JLC3650 6.5" Coax with 0.75" Tweeter
CDIU230V Ipod Cable For Pioneer
10" W6 sub, its badass​
Custom fabricated box

I went into this build with a few objectives:

I needs small amps to fit with the spare tire
removable faceplate on deck
quality components
make it slightly stealthy.

I wanted to have this build as stealthy and clean as I could get it. When I was shopping around for equipment, i found the JL XD amps attractive due to their power output, thermal protection, and most importantly, they were tiny. I could hide them where I would never have to look at them, and where others wouldn't be able to see them either from the outside of the vehicle. I also wanted to hide my sub, but also have significant power. So that meant buying a sub that was big, but diameter wise, could fit into my greater plan.

Essentially, I needed to obtain at least 17.7 litres of sub enclosure (net) but keep the vehicle functional for storage and passengers. This meant I had to build a very custom sub enclosure to fit snugly against and under my driver side seat. There it could remain largely hidden from view, and I wouldn't lose any storage. I apologize that there aren't more pictures of the actual installation process; it was winter, cold, and my garage doesn't have power, so daylight was limited, I just wanted to get it over with. Anyways, onto my build process!

Running cables

I spent a lot of time researching this. This vehicle is my first newer one (last one was 1979) and my first Jeep. I had no idea what I was in for. Didn't even know how to pop a body panel. But I managed to do a quality job for my first try. I watched a lot of youtube and looked at other vehicles with the shared crossover platform if I could find a definitive answer.


This is the big one, I read online there are a few spots to go. On the driver side, if you have 8GA and under, you can run it somewhere with part of the AC, or route it with the rest of the main power cables through the fender and into the firewall. I went on the passenger side and popped the grommet that holds the read washer fluid line in place. It was by far the easiest option in my opinion. Just follow one of the lines off the washer fluid storage. This of course followed the floor plastic panel on the passenger side. I made sure to tuck it as close to the top of the "channel" as possible, as I would need to run a speaker line through the same area, and needed to create some separation. There's lots of room under there though!

RCA and Remote

I bundled 3 pairs of audiophile quality RCA of 17ft with a remote line using a few zap straps. I ran these under the plastic panel that runs along the floor on the driver side. Lifting the rear seat cushion allowed me to space to route the cable bundle under it into my spare tire area. At the same time did the same thing with the power line. super easy, loving this install already as I haven't had to struggle too much so far.

Front speaker cable

I only have the 2 new speakers so far for the fronts. They were a bit pricey, so I was only going to upgrade the fronts. I ran all new 16 GA speaker cable under the same plastic channel, however I let them sit closer to the bottom to create separation distance. The left speaker was run down the left channel, and the right side for the right cable. That's why i needed separation distance between my power, didn't want any interference from it. I spooled enough cable on either end to give me options, I had to finish my build that day and put the car back together so I could drive it.


The following day I had to figure out where the crossovers where going. I had a few options:
Mount them above the kick panel on either side
Mount them somewhere in the doors
under the seats

I ended up putting the crossovers in the door storage cubbyholes after some significant time struggling with placement. I really did not want to drill a place for them, or zap strap them in (the had crappy mounts for zap strapping) and there wasnt an easy place inside the door

I'm actually quite proud of this, as it solved a few problems:
I want to minimize how much speaker cable im running
I don't want to have to run 2 sets of speaker cable through the doors
I want to be able to easily access the crossovers
easy placement

To get them to stay put, I bought some sticky sided velcro, works like a charm. And they stay nice and hidden, you cant see them from the outside. To run the wires, I drill sizable holes in the bottom of the cubby. I had to run 3 sets of 16Ga afterall (source, tweeter, woofer)

Running cable through the door

What a pain in the ass this was. It was easy once I had it figured out, but it took me forever.

My obstacles:
rubber sleave/boot
wiring harness (i forget the common name for it, but it's a pain)​

The biggest problem, is that I wanted to run my cable through the rubber boot, but its too kinked up to do this without taking it apart, and after taking the boot off on the pillar side, and the door side I realized that getting the cable aaaaalll the way through would be impossible without some serious work. On the door side of the boot, it flattens out, and the cables for the rest of the door electronics are actually pressed under a metal plate that is flush with the door. So pretty much, I went outside the boot by making a small incision and pushing the cabling through. If you look at the picture below, you'll see the wire that doesn't belong, its barely noticeable though.

The best way to really do this is to follow this advice: dont be afraid to take it apart. I only figured out how to wire from the inside to the doors by taking the wiring boot apart, I pulled it off its mount, which revealed a nasty wire harness. When I saw the harness my heart sank, Its huge, and it didn't look like there was any way through it, but there is. Just enough clearance to get a nice 16 GA wire though. You really just have to take it apart and look at it, there are slots around the outside of the harness, lots of slots.

Fishing the cabling through the doors will only be possible once you pull the wire harness out of its hole. It will also let you SEE where you have to aim with a coat hanger to get the wire from the inside to the outside. Once my wire was through I pulled all my slack through, and then fished my line through the wire harness. Then I made the incision I mentioned and pulled the cable slack through that.

From the picture, you can see that I ran the cable along the boot, under the weather stripping, and then under to door panel, where it loops under the speaker to the crossover cubby. The rest was just wiring up the crossover and cleaning up the wire placement.

Amp Placement

once all the cabling was in the hard part was over. Time for amp placement.
I wanted them by my spare, but where? I ended up taking out the cargo carpet, there there was a perfect nook the the amps on either side. I used double sided tape (lots) to keep them still.

I'm still in the process of finding the best ground. I did have its grounded to the rear latch plate, but the cabling it long. I just have to test if there is any interference. The place I have it hooked up to in the picture is a seat bolt, I'm currently running that and it sounds fine, just have to find the time to trim the cable.

During the summer I may have heat problems, but there is a lot of bare metal to soak it up. If i do have issues, I'll install a remote relay and a few computer fans.

The Deck

I had this installed through the place I bought my stuff at. Had to provide a labour invoice for warranty purposes. I had everything wired up ahead of time, so they just finished it up and installed my speakers with some 6x9 to 6.5 adapter plates. I hate installing decks, and making plates, so I was fine to pay for this. Once it was done, my steering wheel controls still worked, and it was pretty much done, except for the sub.

Sub box construction

This was a 2 day labour of love. Not only had I never made a box before, but I had no idea if my design would work, if it would fit, or how to carpet it nicely. Luckily all of that turned out. The box is a sealed 10" box designed to snugly fit under and behind the driver seat. To get the volume it had to fit around the seat mounts. There are a total of 12 pieces, some with crazy angles. the material is 3/4" MDF

Some of the dimensions, if you can see them are inaccurate. Partway through my cutting, I realized that I screwed up. I didn't leave enough floor clearance for the down fire, or enough internal clearance for heat dissipation. Some rough calcs on the spot and I was back in business. Finished product below:

This build took me a long time. I am a rooky at equipment installs, so it took me a while, but learned everything after extensive searching on the internet. I quite proud of it :) the guy who sold me all the gear was stoked to see it completed (he had never seen a W6 yet). I had quite a few compliments on the install. very little grounding hiss, clear sub hits, and the C3's scream.

What I still need to work out:
capacitor placement
will my amps overheat this summer?
where shall i permanently ground?
do I have room for one more XD amp for another W6 :)

Hope the read wasn't too painful, its late. if you have any specific questions, Ill be happy to answer them.

96 Posts
Did you deaden the doors. I'm about to take my door panels off, if so does it come off in sections or 1 piece? My speakers sound good now, no rattling, but when I play music and feel the outside of the door I can feel the vibrations. So I got some dynamat extreme.
1 - 3 of 3 Posts