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Hello fellow enthusiasts, I am doing a SQ build for a 2013 Genesis coupe. I actually started this build a little bit after I purchased the car but because of life, I postponed the build but now I am pretty excited to get back into it. My build is going to be pretty different from most of the builds I have seen so far so I don't claim to know everything there is to know about this. I have done several builds before. I am not in the business but do have an act to figure things out. Lots of research always is the best route and of course your budget. I decided to go with all high end equipment which does not mean everything but it certainly helps to get what your after. Learning curves are everything since this is how you can go faster when your doing the work. I am a bit slow but very methodical so as I post I will show you what I am doing. I drew out the signal path on Visio and printed it to a PDF so this is the attachment on this first post. As an overview I elected not to do ANYTHING with the stock head unit or the stock amplifier that comes with the car. As you probably already know, newer cars have a lot of functionality in the stock head unit. Mine controls the phone, NAV, radio, clock, cd and displays the heating and cooling features. After thinking about it, I really do not care about the radio or CD player to be connected to a high end system so this is why I am building a system outside the factory head unit. The factory head unit will remain with all its functionality in tact including the blue tooth connections to the phone. Instead I am going to use an iPhone as the music source and through various pieces of equipment transfer the DIGITAL source to a DSP/DAC and ultimately push a balanced line to SQ Amplifiers.

I have completed a big 4 upgrade. I am using Wirez brand for all my wiring with an exception of AudioQuest Cinnamon CAT 7 and COAX cables. I have not yet done anything to the alternator and running a stock 130AMP but may need to upgrade this piece. I ran 0 AWG power and ground under the vehicle using a flexible conduit that was wrapped with braided cable sleeves. These wires were secured to the vehicle with aluminum brackets that a shop installed for me by removing the exhaust pipes to install the nut plates. All the wiring is secured under the vehicle and is fed up through a grommet in the truck. The battery was upgraded to a Kinetik HC-1800PRO battery. 2 batteries were purchased one under the hood and the other in the trunk. Grounds attached to the chassis, engine block and alternator. Positive cable to the alternator as well.

I have started to build the infinite baffle for the 2 - 15inch Hybrid Audio Technology Clarus subs. I am not finished with it but I have put the rings together. The subs are 15.25 inches so I made my 2 baffle rings that size (1.5"). I rabbet the ring that the sub sits against to allow the lip of the sub to lay flush with the two 3/4 baffle rings. There are 4 - 3/4 spacer rings that will allow the subs to set back away from the metal opening that the baffle board will be attached to. They are glued and glassed together and attached to the baffle rings along with the infinite baffle board. The idea is to get a complete seal between the trunk and the cabin. All together there is 6 rings making the entire depth 4.5 inches. This will allow the sub to have full excursion without the risk of it hitting the metal opening. The metal opening is a bit smaller than a 15 inch sub woofer.

Sound deadening takes the most amount of time to do but it is so important to do it right. There are 4 types of deadening that are essential. Most do the basic of attaching the sticky tar substance directly to the metal but the other 3 are very important - Barriers help reduce transmission loss. If you think about a piece of paper it's transmission lost is 0db on all frequencies since noise will just transfer through. A barrier will keep noise out and music in. Decouple foam helps with vibration inside the cab with panels. Absorption deadening fills the hollow areas with a moisture wicking material that absorbs noise. 3M makes "Thinsolate" which is found in gloves.

I am at this point sound deadening the trunk. I plan on creating a floor after the deadening is applied so that I can plan and position all the amps and equipment. It is going to be a cool ride so let me know what you think....
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Big 4 upgrade - Stock battery, positive on right side

Battery01.JPG

Positive starter breaker modified to allow 4AWG wire and terminal ring

IMG_0204.JPG

Negative 0AWG connected to chassis, engine block and brought to the negative side of the alternator

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Positive line directly connected to the alternator

IMG_0216.JPG

Negative and Positive lines ran under the vehicle through a flexible conduit

IMG_0213.JPG

Negative and positive fed through a grommet, an additional neg line ran and connected to the frame.

IMG_1450.JPG

Fused at the battery terminal along with an ANL fuse at the t-block that takes the positive line under the vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No if you look at the signal Path PDF you will see that I am using a L.K.S. Audio – USB-100 Audio Interface that improves the USB audio signal and converts it to Digital COAX. Dragonfly is a DAC that delivers the signal into Analog which connects to a headphone. I am keeping it all digital until the PS8 unit from ARC Audio does the DSP configuration via Lap top
 

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When I had my '10 2.0 Premium, I did a very in depth build on my stereo on gencoupe.com Same username. Also, Dogstar has post there and here about his. 15" subs IB should be interesting, since the height of the trunk is only about 11 inches. lol I'll be following.
 

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Yes we will see Jay, I built an extended ring to set the subs back from the opening about 5 inches, we will see if there are any negative effects, everything is sound deadened so I am hoping there is no issue as I do not have the entire cone exposed in the cab. Please send me the link to your build I would love to see what you did. I am close now to start building the floor, I also figured out the design so I will be adding more pictures soon. I am going to go with a floating amp rack design that positions the 4 amps close to the rear of the truck.
 

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Does all of our pics go to Photobucket? I hate to put all this work into this log if all the pics turn out bad
 

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Photobucket used to be free, and was probably the most used pic hosting site out there. Then they got greedy a couple years (ish) ago, and tried to charge everyone. Most people have either elected to pay for the service, or switched to other pic hosting sites. I switched to Flickr (which was free when I switched, but I ran out of space, so I pay for it now.) It was kind of a big deal when it happened, since Photobucket basically messed up every forum out there. Everyone has adjusted by now, so from here on out, it will probably be fine.
 

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Does all of our pics go to Photobucket? I hate to put all this work into this log if all the pics turn out bad
I've used pbase to host my images for well over a decade. I assume there are other great options but it has worked well for me. It does require a small fee but I have thousands of images on the site.
 

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Hey everyone, been working on the false floor. I made it out of fiberglass and constructing attachment points on it for mounting all the gear. Working on Power now, almost finished. I have (1) 0 AWG Power and (2) 0 AWG Ground. Power and one ground is coming from the front of the vehicle and one ground from the rear frame. The connections are a bit complicated and I will chart that later. I was wondering if anyone knows how to test to see if you have a good enough ground. I am running multiple distribution blocks because I have a lot of components to ground so I would like to know how I can test to see if I have a good enough ground. The major components that I am grounding are:
  1. Battery
  2. Ultra-capacitors
  3. 4 Amplifiers (3300 watts)
  4. Various small items
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well that was silly, nothing like researching the internet for answers to basic questions. I watched a couple of videos and went to my manual for the ARC amps and I am below 1 OHM so all is good. I am very happy about finding a central grounding point and using Distribution blocks to get the connectivity needed, sure is a lot easier doing that then making multiple grounding points especially since I have 2 layers of sound deadening and a fiberglass molded false floor.
 

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I thought I would post a preliminary pic of how this should look once everything is hooked up. Of course it could change a bit as I work on getting everything connected. The routing of these wires is pretty time consuming making sure everything can fit and be removed as I build. I highly recommend using ferrules to connect blocks and fuses with. The build is coming together and looking pretty good. Power is about done and as I am working through that I am building the various pieces along the way. The Amp Rack will have the base amps on the bottom. XS Power Ultra Capacitors (16.1 volts - 500 Farads) are on the left. Power connections for the amps are in the center left. This makes all the 4 gauge runs pretty short since the are all in the same area. The Mid Bass amp will be elevated and between the 2 Bass amps. The 2150 which will run the 3s in the A pillar will be mounted on an angle, resting on the top of the battery with a securing stand in back. The 2nd battery is in the center of the vehicle and since the battery rack has bolts it is securing the false floor along with the spare tire bolt which also secures the amp rack Grounds are below on the false floor. DSP and all the signal connections will be on the right side of the truck. Power, ground and remote turn on distribution blocks for all the misc equipment will be mounted to the false floor. Fans will be near the rear where the Four amps touch
 

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It’s always great when you have a well thought out plan, and things actually work that way. :)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Hey guys, I finished my amp board, power board, input board, and will be hooking up all the components in the trunk minus the capacitors to ensure that the units all work and turn on properly. I have to order a 12volt to USB 5 volt for the LKS unit so that really is about the only thing left to purchase. I have some pictures to post so will be doing this shortly. Ideally if I had a whiz bang shop the boards would be made out of clear Plexiglas which I could light with the blue LED rope lighting I have from StreetGlow. It would show off the connectors and nylon braiding that is under the amp board but for now its MDF that has been painted to protect the boards. Most of this is not shown because of all the equipment. After I get this all hooked up and ensure that everything is working, I plan on taking the car to my local auto upholstery shop and have the truck done in Pewter suede and black carbon fiber vinyl. This combo is going in the cab when I redo the interior. I plan on posting the pics of the amp board pieces and the false floor in a couple of days.
 
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