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Hello fellow enthusiasts, I am doing a SQ build for a 2013 Genesis coupe. I actually started this build a little bit after I purchased the car but because of life, I postponed the build but now I am pretty excited to get back into it. My build is going to be pretty different from most of the builds I have seen so far so I don't claim to know everything there is to know about this. I have done several builds before. I am not in the business but do have an act to figure things out. Lots of research always is the best route and of course your budget. I decided to go with all high end equipment which does not mean everything but it certainly helps to get what your after. Learning curves are everything since this is how you can go faster when your doing the work. I am a bit slow but very methodical so as I post I will show you what I am doing. I drew out the signal path on Visio and printed it to a PDF so this is the attachment on this first post. As an overview I elected not to do ANYTHING with the stock head unit or the stock amplifier that comes with the car. As you probably already know, newer cars have a lot of functionality in the stock head unit. Mine controls the phone, NAV, radio, clock, cd and displays the heating and cooling features. After thinking about it, I really do not care about the radio or CD player to be connected to a high end system so this is why I am building a system outside the factory head unit. The factory head unit will remain with all its functionality in tact including the blue tooth connections to the phone. Instead I am going to use an iPhone as the music source and through various pieces of equipment transfer the DIGITAL source to a DSP/DAC and ultimately push a balanced line to SQ Amplifiers.

I have completed a big 4 upgrade. I am using Wirez brand for all my wiring with an exception of AudioQuest Cinnamon CAT 7 and COAX cables. I have not yet done anything to the alternator and running a stock 130AMP but may need to upgrade this piece. I ran 0 AWG power and ground under the vehicle using a flexible conduit that was wrapped with braided cable sleeves. These wires were secured to the vehicle with aluminum brackets that a shop installed for me by removing the exhaust pipes to install the nut plates. All the wiring is secured under the vehicle and is fed up through a grommet in the truck. The battery was upgraded to a Kinetik HC-1800PRO battery. 2 batteries were purchased one under the hood and the other in the trunk. Grounds attached to the chassis, engine block and alternator. Positive cable to the alternator as well.

I have started to build the infinite baffle for the 2 - 15inch Hybrid Audio Technology Clarus subs. I am not finished with it but I have put the rings together. The subs are 15.25 inches so I made my 2 baffle rings that size (1.5"). I rabbet the ring that the sub sits against to allow the lip of the sub to lay flush with the two 3/4 baffle rings. There are 4 - 3/4 spacer rings that will allow the subs to set back away from the metal opening that the baffle board will be attached to. They are glued and glassed together and attached to the baffle rings along with the infinite baffle board. The idea is to get a complete seal between the trunk and the cabin. All together there is 6 rings making the entire depth 4.5 inches. This will allow the sub to have full excursion without the risk of it hitting the metal opening. The metal opening is a bit smaller than a 15 inch sub woofer.

Sound deadening takes the most amount of time to do but it is so important to do it right. There are 4 types of deadening that are essential. Most do the basic of attaching the sticky tar substance directly to the metal but the other 3 are very important - Barriers help reduce transmission loss. If you think about a piece of paper it's transmission lost is 0db on all frequencies since noise will just transfer through. A barrier will keep noise out and music in. Decouple foam helps with vibration inside the cab with panels. Absorption deadening fills the hollow areas with a moisture wicking material that absorbs noise. 3M makes "Thinsolate" which is found in gloves.

I am at this point sound deadening the trunk. I plan on creating a floor after the deadening is applied so that I can plan and position all the amps and equipment. It is going to be a cool ride so let me know what you think....
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Big 4 upgrade - Stock battery, positive on right side

Battery01.JPG

Positive starter breaker modified to allow 4AWG wire and terminal ring

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Negative 0AWG connected to chassis, engine block and brought to the negative side of the alternator

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Positive line directly connected to the alternator

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Negative and Positive lines ran under the vehicle through a flexible conduit

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Negative and positive fed through a grommet, an additional neg line ran and connected to the frame.

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Fused at the battery terminal along with an ANL fuse at the t-block that takes the positive line under the vehicle
 

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No if you look at the signal Path PDF you will see that I am using a L.K.S. Audio – USB-100 Audio Interface that improves the USB audio signal and converts it to Digital COAX. Dragonfly is a DAC that delivers the signal into Analog which connects to a headphone. I am keeping it all digital until the PS8 unit from ARC Audio does the DSP configuration via Lap top
 
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