2014 Avalon Limited Build

24252 Views 412 Replies 33 Participants Last post by StaudiA6, 8 d ago

TheTodd

Discussion Starter · 10 mo ago

5

So I literally just picked this up a few hours ago. Since I work at the dealership I got it from I went right from signing papers to the back for applying ceramic protection. One old lady owner, loaded and only 35k miles.

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For the first 2 months or so it’ll move a little slow but after the VA meet in September the Malibu will finally be retired and most of the equipment will get transferred into this car. It’s also going to be my daily driver so down time/disassembly will be minimal.

Car:
2014 Avalon with JBL/nav system

Goals:
Supreme SQ while keeping as much useable/cargo space as possible and use OEM speaker locations and minimal modifications

Equipment:
Head unit: Kenwood Excelon Reference DMX-1057XR
Processor: JL TWK88
Amps: Alpine PDX-V9 & F4
Front Stage: SI TM65mk4, SI M3 Carbon, SI M25mk2
Sub: SI… either SQL 15 or SQL 12

All of the equipment, with the exception of the front stage & subs is currently installed in my Malibu. Once the Sept VA meet is over I’ll start pulling gear.

The decision on sub will depend on where there’s available room for it. I’m hoping for spare tire well but I’m limited on mounting depth there (I’ll measure that out in the next few days), if that doesn’t work either side of the trunk might work.

Most people will say you can’t replace the
radio in the JBL/Synthesis cars and, from what I’ve read, it’s because the circuit board for the passenger airbag light is integrated into the board with the tuning knob so it can’t be transferred to the new dash kit. So after some investigation I am under the understanding that the plug for the airbag light is the same for all models of radios so I procured a non-JBL radio so I can dismantle THAT & I can keep my original radio intact.

Sleeve Gadget Grey Collar Audio equipment

I should be able to start accruing install parts for this over the next few weeks so this will hopefully start moving along about the end of September. I’ll update as it moves along.

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dkc7

· #161 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

I would use 1/16 steel or 1/8 aluminum. I like the plan. I feel inadequate now with only one sql12.
look for a metal store. HD price for metal is crazy. U near a harbour freight.
I just started my sq5 build yesterday.
we can catch up in May.

Reactions: 1

TheTodd

Discussion Starter · #162 · 3 mo ago

Freakquency said:
Man....you might have this thing ready by May. I need to step it up

I might try to get er done by then BUT I was thinking about saving a bit on shipping and picking up the second sub at the meet. I don’t know… I’ll have to see how quickly things progress. I don’t see the baffle taking long at all and I should be able to do the amp rack in about a few weeks or so just doing a little bit every couple days, but I’m absolutely dreading running bigger power wire. The other problem is (obviously) the cost of EVERYTHING has gone up and we have a vacation to Jamaica to pay for now. I think I have the balance down to about $7k at this point so I really picked a bad time to do this. Little bits at a time…

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dkc7

· #163 · 3 mo ago

Dude, u have one sub just build the baffle and put a mdf plate over one hole. Wire it all up and install the 2nd sub at the meet. There might even be someone there that can help😏

Reactions: 1

naiku

· #164 · 3 mo ago

TheTodd said:
BUT I was thinking about saving a bit on shipping and picking up the second sub at the meet. I don’t know

You won't save much on shipping, it's free shipping on SQL12s.

No excuses now, I'll be looking forward to checking out your updated install in May!!

Reactions: 2

TheTodd

Discussion Starter · #165 · 3 mo ago

naiku said:
You won't save much on shipping, it's free shipping on SQL12s

Dammit! I guess it’s on now

Reactions: 3

Truthunter

· #166 · 3 mo ago

I used 1/8" AL angle for the baffle in my car. It was only needed on the top side though as there is a raised stiffener part of the unibody that goes across the bottom. I was able to drill and set riv-nuts in it to fasten the bottom. I would assume the Avalon has something similar going across the bottom?

Freakquency

· #167 · 3 mo ago

Truthunter said:
I used 1/8" AL angle for the baffle in my car. It was only needed on the top side though as there is a raised stiffener part of the unibody that goes across the bottom. I was able to drill and set riv-nuts in it to fasten the bottom. I would assume the Avalon has something similar going across the bottom?

I may have to pick both of you guys' brains about how I could potentially do my new baffle....my current one is ****. This new one has to be extremely solid considering the stupidity i'm pursuing.

Reactions: 1

TheTodd

Discussion Starter · #168 · 3 mo ago

Truthunter said:
I used 1/8" AL angle for the baffle in my car. It was only needed on the top side though as there is a raised stiffener part of the unibody that goes across the bottom. I was able to drill and set riv-nuts in it to fasten the bottom. I would assume the Avalon has something similar going across the bottom?

Yup. Not my car, but this is a picture of a 14 Avalon (same year) with all of the trim removed…

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The plan was rivnuts along the rear deck & floor (and the obvious question about the sides), secure angle braces and then mount the baffle to the angle braces. In the pic above the braces are going to go where the deadener is on the center of the floor and in the same spot on the under side of the rear deck. My seats don’t fold so I don’t want to mount them right up against the back of the seat. Mounting them where I’m thinking gives me only about 3” or so to the back seat.

I’m also debating on whether to tap the angle braces or install rivnuts into them for the baffle. If I go aluminum it’s probably best to use the rivnuts so as to not accidentally strip out the threads on the aluminum.

The baffle in my Malibu was only secured at the top but I did have to climb in the trunk and kick & beat it into place. I want this one to be just as secure but a LOT easier in/out.

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TheTodd

Discussion Starter · #169 · 3 mo ago

Freakquency said:
I may have to pick both of you guys' brains about how I could potentially do my new baffle....my current one is ****. This new one has to be extremely solid considering the stupidity i'm pursuing.

We can absolutely discuss it further in May or feel free to pick away. I’m by no means an expert but sometimes even just a different perspective can make a difference. My problem is usually trying to make things too complicated in my head when there’s MUCH easier ways to get the job done.

Reactions: 1

Freakquency

· #170 · 3 mo ago

TheTodd said:
We can absolutely discuss it further in May or feel free to pick away. I’m by no means an expert but sometimes even just a different perspective can make a difference. My problem is usually trying to make things too complicated in my head when there’s MUCH easier ways to get the job done.

I'll take that over me going into this blind as a bat with no real idea where to even start. So I appreciate that.

Truthunter

· #171 · 3 mo ago

2

It is actually quite similar to mine except for the large diagonal braces that are not in the Camry. Looks like you want to mount the baffle further back than where mine is... I assume so there is clearance to reverse mount the subs or to keep the cone from blasting straight into those diagonal braces which makes sense.

Anyway, the outline in blue is where my baffle is attached and the red dots where fasteners located (Top fasteners not shown.

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For the attaching the baffle to the angle I used 1/4" construction lags (circled in Red) fastened through the angle directly into the baffle.

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Freakquency

· #172 · 3 mo ago

When I pull my trunk setup out for good, I'll make sure I start my own thread and also send them to you 2 for assistance. I apologize for the derail.

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dkc7

· #173 · 3 mo ago

I was thinking steel angle so you can tap holes. I like riv nuts when they are hidden. I like aluminium when i have to make fancy cuts cause i can use my mitre saw. Steal i have to do by eye with an angle grinder. Such a first world problem steel or aluminum for my fancy sub in my car😊

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TheTodd

Discussion Starter · #174 · 3 mo ago

Truthunter said:
to keep the cone from blasting straight into those diagonal braces which makes sense.

This.

Freakquency said:
When I pull my trunk setup out for good, I'll make sure I start my own thread and also send them to you 2 for assistance. I apologize for the derail.

No worries at all. I don’t mind the side track. Like I said, maybe we can trade ideas & help each other out.

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dkc7

· #175 · 3 mo ago

You could cut out that cross piece and make your baffle out of carbon fibre. That would stiffen things back up. Damn I should never have read OCD’s spare sub build! 😊

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TheTodd

Discussion Starter · #176 · 3 mo ago

2

Well, this weekend I did some measuring & designing and got some 1/4” & 1/2” mdf.

Using 1/4” as a base, sitting on top of the spare you can see how it puts the very top surface of the amp even with the floor.

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So I know I’m going to be raising the floor somewhere around 1/2-3/4”. My first plan was to do a stack construction so the rack would sit on that little lip surrounding the tire well. Once I started getting in depth with the design I realized it wasn’t going to look the way I wanted even though it actually used the least amount of wood. I was also having a very hard time figuring out the rest of the floor while being able to easily remove the spare if needed, as well as the layout was a bit cramped to get all the necessary gear in. On to plan 2… while I think it would look the way I wanted, it started to become very complex to construct and it would use way too much wood. So today while at work an idea popped into my head which should prove to use minimal materials, be easy to construct and I can probably knock it out in about a day or 2. I snatched a decent amount of cardboard from work so the next few evenings will be mock up and hopefully I can get some assembly done on my day off on Thursday.

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TheTodd

Discussion Starter · #177 · 3 mo ago

2

So, taking advantage of the unseasonably warm temps today, I started to attack this thing head-on this morning. I got the trunk gutted and started double checking all my measurements.

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Got the amp board base and sides cut & checked fitment.

Hood Rectangle Gas Tints and shades Beige

Now I’m sitting in a holding pattern while glue dries. I’m hoping I can get to the point where I have the top panel made today before I button things back up.

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MinnesotaFats13

· #178 · 3 mo ago

TheTodd said:
Now I’m sitting in a holding pattern while glue dries. I’m hoping I can get to the point where I have the top panel made today before I button things back up.

As a woodworker, this is the worst. Not sure if you know about this but a simple way around this is CA glue with activator. The wood glue is for long-term hold and the CA allows you to move forward. The big thing to remember is CA glue doesn't do well with shock and will let go quickly.

Reactions: 1

dkc7

· #179 · 3 mo ago

TheTodd said:
So, taking advantage of the unseasonably warm temps today, I started to attack this thing head-on this morning. I got the trunk gutted and started double checking all my measurements.
View attachment 368626

Got the amp board base and sides cut & checked fitment.
View attachment 368627

Now I’m sitting in a holding pattern while glue dries. I’m hoping I can get to the point where I have the top panel made today before I button things back up.

Air brad nailer.

Reactions: 1

dkc7

· #180 · 3 mo ago

Looks like you have some gaps in that front board, clamp em up

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