DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
2021 GMC Sierra AT4
Joined
·
356 Posts
From a subwoofer standpoint, you are going to be very limited without a seat lift. Probs a max depth 3.5 to 4 in without a lift and 5.5 to 6 in with one.

Im assuming you are looking mainly at subs or full system?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
not really rattle the windows because I still haven't got a better sub to put in the box but I did this. I can still lift the rear seat for the tools I store under the seat and both front seats still go all the way back. The middle rear seat was never used anyway. I have a 12" MB Quart from a past system until I find a sub that better matches the 0.9 ft3 sealed box volume. 2016 Silverado double cab.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
266 Posts
not really rattle the windows because I still haven't got a better sub to put in the box but I did this. I can still lift the rear seat for the tools I store under the seat and both front seats still go all the way back. The middle rear seat was never used anyway. I have a 12" MB Quart from a past system until I find a sub that better matches the 0.9 ft3 sealed box volume. 2016 Silverado double cab.
Man you have some skill fitting a 12 right there. I fit a10" re sub and the box is still too small. And it was about the same cu but square and tall. Sub sat level with the arm rest. Any other pics?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
I have tons more pics but I'm frankly ashamed of this install. I had my truck gutted for two weeks and couldn't go any longer without it so I had to slap everything together half assed. The box was built well ahead of time so that came out ok. It was winter 2021, everything was delayed. the sound deadening for the front doors didn't arrive, the replacement clips I broke came months later, the Pioneer DEQs1000 has always been glitchy and it took me over a month to find an old Galaxy S5 to interface with it decently. I was given a pair of Alpine PDX amps, a 4x100 and a 1000 mono amp plus their top 6.5 inch component speakers from the 2008 era and decided to make use of them in the truck. I bought a walmart sub grill I can place over the sub but it looks like **** so I leave it off unless I'm worried about hitting it. Maybe some experts would laugh at this but for my skill level I would never have attempted tying into the factory deck without the METRA pass through harness. BTW it's NOT the same from 2015 to 2016, I've got the 2015 harness still sitting DOA on marketplace ever since. I was lucky that GM left an open fuse that's on the courtesty power circuit, I ran that to a 40 amp relay to power on the amps, DSP and the switch panel for my auxillary lights

I got a center seat from the junk jard that I gutted and ran the USB and controller wires to to hide the amps, processor and crossovers. The original is in a box to put in when I sell the truck some day. Next winter I'd like to pull the seats and try to smooth the fabric wrinkles, declutter some last minute wiring, solve a ground loop issue, put the doors together properly, get an appropriate sub for that box ect.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
266 Posts
The sub was supposed to be covered in matching fabric or a filler I could smooth out later, but I may just build a different box with the same external dimensions and get some monster 10" sub
Nice man. I too am/was in the same position. In a rush as ma garage is in front of the house and I did not want to leave the interior bare lol. Goes to show just how quick these trucks can be stripped of the interior tho...

I started two years ago and gave up on upgrading the stereo after that 4-8" started adding up and still would not have excellent sound quality. Finally got a dsp an walla. Heck no more loud azz door chimes either. Idk. But without this dsp it was a ish show with the chimes. And sound quality was crap. Still nothing like the old stuff but better then factory.

Anyhow that setup looks great man. I have been pondering my next center console sub box build. I'm gonna ditch the current sub and find one on-site. Issue is I would now like to face the sub downward to keep it out of my ears 😆
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
The various beeps and chimes were an issue for me too. I put in those "seat belt extenders" to stop the worst of it and one of my main decisions to go with the Pioneer DEQ is that it has a source fader bar on the app, you have have it anywhere from 100% OEM system source and 0% phone for input. I'd set the source unit as 30% and pause the GM source music and listen to files direct from my phone to the DSP and then the amps. Phone rings you hear it over the music you pause the song on the phone and you're listening to the phone call at a reasonable volume. It had the added bonus of the music wasn't put through the GM factory wonky EQ curve. For $250 that Pioneer had so much potential.

As for the subs I started with the idea of a slim box under the seat and 4 front firing SKAR 8" or something like that but the whole hassel of raising the seat and how little room there is under a double cab seat i just went with the box I did.

Which DSP did you go with?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
266 Posts
The various beeps and chimes were an issue for me too. I put in those "seat belt extenders" to stop the worst of it and one of my main decisions to go with the Pioneer DEQ is that it has a source fader bar on the app, you have have it anywhere from 100% OEM system source and 0% phone for input. I'd set the source unit as 30% and pause the GM source music and listen to files direct from my phone to the DSP and then the amps. Phone rings you hear it over the music you pause the song on the phone and you're listening to the phone call at a reasonable volume. It had the added bonus of the music wasn't put through the GM factory wonky EQ curve. For $250 that Pioneer had so much potential.

As for the subs I started with the idea of a slim box under the seat and 4 front firing SKAR 8" or something like that but the whole hassel of raising the seat and how little room there is under a double cab seat i just went with the box I did.

Which DSP did you go with?
Yeah man I thought 8s too. Then said go big or go home lol. With space avaliable in mind. Plus I have always been a fan of 10s and 15s forever.
Since I trashed that first console box I plan on building another that will extend under the seat to get more cubes. Sorta want to keep sq so a sealed box it'll be.

I picked up a zapco dsp z8 here on the forums. Having an a couple issues but when it plays all I do is smile. Lol. I think it has the same features if not more. I would have to look tho.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
696 Posts
2015 GMC crew cab. I cut a hole through the rear floor, reinforced it with a 1/4" steel border, and bolted a box on the top and bottom to hold an Alpine 15" Type-R. You could also forego the underfloor box and run IB.
Seat folds down, is not raised, and I have all the underseat storage on the passenger side and still a little bit on the driver side of the sub. I fiberglassed the box and covered it with rubberized undercoating, if you get under the truck it looks totally OEM, actually looks more integrated than the stock DEF tank.



Automotive tire Motor vehicle Fixture Trunk Car


Gear shift Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Gas



\
Here is the box before mounting under the truck. Came about to about 2.3 ft3, just right for the Alpine Type-R 15:" sub

Automotive tire Waste containment Road surface Asphalt Wood
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
266 Posts
2015 GMC crew cab. I cut a hole through the rear floor, reinforced it with a 1/4" steel border, and bolted a box on the top and bottom to hold an Alpine 15" Type-R. You could also forego the underfloor box and run IB.
Seat folds down, is not raised, and I have all the underseat storage on the passenger side and still a little bit on the driver side of the sub. I fiberglassed the box and covered it with rubberized undercoating, if you get under the truck it looks totally OEM, actually looks more integrated than the stock DEF tank.



View attachment 334754

View attachment 334755
View attachment 334758


\
Here is the box before mounting under the truck. Came about to about 2.3 ft3, just right for the Alpine Type-R 15:" sub

View attachment 334757
Bro..... 🔥 💯💯💯 now you just got me thinking of getting a 15" sub again!!! I think I may just do this instead of battling the console again. I can't even imagine the bass output. How does that sound outside the cab?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
2015 GMC crew cab. I cut a hole through the rear floor, reinforced it with a 1/4" steel border, and bolted a box on the top and bottom to hold an Alpine 15" Type-R. You could also forego the underfloor box and run IB.
Seat folds down, is not raised, and I have all the underseat storage on the passenger side and still a little bit on the driver side of the sub. I fiberglassed the box and covered it with rubberized undercoating, if you get under the truck it looks totally OEM, actually looks more integrated than the stock DEF tank.








\
Here is the box before mounting under the truck. Came about to about 2.3 ft3, just right for the Alpine Type-R 15:" sub
Holy ****!

That's an impressive dedication to getting bass in a truck but I couldn't lose any ground clearance or risk cutting up my floor. At worst I was going to make a quick connect at the sub amp and seat belt in a monster Band pass box with two Alpine Type R 12" I have in the basement for big bass / no passenger drives.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Yeah man I thought 8s too. Then said go big or go home lol. With space avaliable in mind. Plus I have always been a fan of 10s and 15s forever.
Since I trashed that first console box I plan on building another that will extend under the seat to get more cubes. Sorta want to keep sq so a sealed box it'll be.

I picked up a zapco dsp z8 here on the forums. Having an a couple issues but when it plays all I do is smile. Lol. I think it has the same features if not more. I would have to look tho.
I'm intrigued. I just did a bit of reading on the Zapco DSP, somehow in my months of online research I didn't even know it existed. Helix, Dayton, Pioneer, AudioControl, JL Audio and Taramps were the only ones on my radar. What phone are you communicating to it with? Does it communicate consistently? With my Pioneer DEQ I have the old S5 to run the DSP but my actual phone is a Galaxy S10 connected bluetooth to the OEM system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
266 Posts
I'm intrigued. I just did a bit of reading on the Zapco DSP, somehow in my months of online research I didn't even know it existed. Helix, Dayton, Pioneer, AudioControl, JL Audio and Taramps were the only ones on my radar. What phone are you communicating to it with? Does it communicate consistently? With my Pioneer DEQ I have the old S5 to run the DSP but my actual phone is a Galaxy S10 connected bluetooth to the OEM system.
Skip the Zapco man. Not worth the trouble. I'm sure the newer ones are fine minus the remote cable. Mine is like first Gen and I got it here for 20% the cost of a new one. Sounds beautiful tho. Thing is the seller did not say he was having issues, just that it had an issue communicating.BS... even

I would stick with all the other brands out there Helix or something else. Besides tech support other then what little a guy can get here is slow and sorta nonexistent.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Skip the Zapco man. Not worth the trouble. I'm sure the newer ones are fine minus the remote cable. Mine is like first Gen and I got it here for 20% the cost of a new one. Sounds beautiful tho. Thing is the seller did not say he was having issues, just that it had an issue communicating.BS... even

I would stick with all the other brands out there Helix or something else. Besides tech support other then what little a guy can get here is slow and sorta nonexistent.
ok thanks, leaves me in the same mess. I'm already planning a system for a car I won't even get for a few weeks, maybe even not see it for several months the way work is going and was hoping for a new DSP solution. I know the Helix is supposed to be the only answer but I'm in Northern Ontario and have no options for anyone I'd trust to tune one let alone have the gear to tune it. For that matter I have a LOT more reading to do before I fully understand what it can and can't do. I might just get a second Pioneer DEQ (the devil I know) cheap and suffer until I find a better solution.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
266 Posts
ok thanks, leaves me in the same mess. I'm already planning a system for a car I won't even get for a few weeks, maybe even not see it for several months the way work is going and was hoping for a new DSP solution. I know the Helix is supposed to be the only answer but I'm in Northern Ontario and have no options for anyone I'd trust to tune one let alone have the gear to tune it. For that matter I have a LOT more reading to do before I fully understand what it can and can't do. I might just get a second Pioneer DEQ (the devil I know) cheap and suffer until I find a better solution.
I hear ya. If you have never heard a vehicle with a dsp let alone setup properly dude its unexplainable. Clarity, bass and treble are ridiculous😁seriously

To sorta give an idea. When you are dealing with the current setup take and fade the sound to one speaker. Now fine tune for clarity a low volume. Next tune the eq and see if you could get anymore out of the speaker then you did prior. You may even get more gain out of the amp.

That alone isn't even the half of what a dsp can do.

I used to be in the mind set of I can't justify the cost. Now I am like WTF was I thinking 🤣🤣🤣
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
I don't think I've had a good sounding system since the mid 2000s when I had a good head unit playing CDs feeding the signal to 90s era gear. Xtant, Rodek, Orion amps with MB Quart front stage and JL Audio subs. Playing MP3s from my phone or USB or streaming Youtube really lowered expectations but now the addition of horrible OEM head units makes it unlistenable.

I can honestly say I haven't heard a good car sound system in years and none with a DSP. I explored a few car audio shops in my area and they were pretty much limited to speaker swaps, the fabrications looked no better than stuff I can already do and they were terrified of delving into the wiring in the dash.

Maybe I'll take a road trip to a worthy shop and see if I can get a demo worthy to give them some business - if I ever find one. 30 years ago every city had 10 shops with an IASCA banner out front, now there might be two and they do fleet CB installs, remote car starters or put sound bars in off road vehicles.
 

·
Registered
2021 GMC Sierra AT4
Joined
·
356 Posts
Having done many iterations of both non-dsp and dsp included builds. First stop on any install for me going forward is dsp and proper sound treatment/rigid installation. The power of a DSP can’t be understated.

Invest into a UMIK-1 and reach out to Skizer (Nick and his business Vanguard Automotive Services). He offers remote tuning and does a stellar job and you’ll learn a lot just watching him operate.

Just my two cents.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top