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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've been meaning to get this log up here for a while, but I've been so amped to get this thing installed that I never found the time to make the post. Without further ado, here it is, my 3rd install on my 2014 Double Cab Tacoma.

Goals:
1. 100% stealth look (keeping stock HU barring floor noise, tweets probably down low but not sure just yet, anything to deter theft and attention)
2. Quality sound, but with a bit of adjustable bang.
3. Easily noticeable difference between my previous system (CTX65CS components pushed by no-name amp, same subs, same sub amp, Pioneer AVHP4200 DVD, no processor)

I went into this thing with the intention of running passive with the following:

OEM Head unit - I want the build to be as stealthy as possible
Audison BitTen DSP
ID CXS64 Chameleon comps (upgraded from CTX65CS from previous vehicle)
2 ID10v3s (from previous vehicle)
1 Cadence ZRS C65 pushing subs (from previous vehicle)
1 ARC Audio FD2200, planning to eventually add another down the road for active

Well, after starting my first box I really got a feel for how little space I have in this truck, so I decided to attempt to return the FD2200 for something smaller, and low and behold I ended up getting a 4-channel amp planning to run active... Cool side note: I tried to exchange the FD2200 for the KS125.4 Mini to run active, and all was going well for a full refund, but then I got a call saying "Hey, we paid commissions to Amazon, paid to ship it, now we have to restock it etc. How about we refund $100/200 that you spent on the FD2200 and you keep it. Of course I don't need it, but I couldn't not buy the FD2200 brand new for $100, so I did it. Looks like the old lady scored on this one.


Anyway, got the KS125.4 mini and decided to go active and then I started tearing everything apart once I had my merchandise in order:

Dash


Rear Firewall - Seats out - Started first box


Got all of my wire ran (at this point I was in such a hurry to get things rolling, I didn't take many pictures), finished my first box, put it in and wouldn't you know I had a space issue mounting my amp on the rack




So on that note I contemplated spending another couple days on a box and decided I would make some modifications, justifying it with "nobody will see this thing anyway, so [email protected]#k it... Did I mention I [email protected] it to the point of not remembering to glue over half the box? Yeah, not good but I had the screw it attitude going on.

Well, I get everything wired up after the modifications to fit all the wires and stuff and the top portion of the box is too thick and the seat can't latch. At this point, I have no choice to but to make another box, because I can't just cut the face of the box where the subs mount. Although I'm pissed about it, I know this next box will turn out great since I've done it once and I can also use this learning experience to make some minor modifications: Bigger amp rack, more airspace for the subs by widening the entire box (unfortunately requiring me to cut into the plastic paneling in the back, but not a big deal). So here is the new box starting with solid plans designed on AutoCAD:


Box is coming along.. Used a sawdust/glue paste to seal any possible air leaks:


Rear view - Don't what the black stuff is on the MDF because I've not a clue. Painting it anyway, so NBD.


Side View:


Front view (front face is not screwed on, just resting there)


Annnnnd the finished product, no seats:


Behind the seats


Side view - Perfect fit (Notice I roughed up the bottom of the amp on that seat mount because of the poor design of my first box. A bit upsetting, but I'll paint it and it's hard to see. Just a note for anybody making their own box.. BE CAREFUL!


Side view zoomed out - It looks like there's no space for the cone, but there's plenty. When the seat folds up there's plenty of excursion room. folding down obviously it does touch a tad, but as long as there aren't any sharp objects the cone will be just fine.


Side View #2 - Kind of a bad pic, but it's an overall look




That's it for now. I've already got the doors deadened, baffles made and mids mounted/wired. haven't connected the amps to the battery yet, but that happens today. I will have the BitTen hooked up today as well. In fact, I'm off to Radio Shack to grab some butt connectors and heat shrink tubing. I'll fuse up the power wires, connect the wires from behind the head unit to the BitTen harness, plug it in and hope for the best. This time I won't make the rookie mistake of not disconnecting my negative terminal so I don't blow another head unit fuse.

Please shoot me your thoughts and such on this and I hope this helps anybody else in their installation journeys. One particular question I have is in relation to my tweets. I haven't mounted them yet because people have convinced me to put stick tape on them and mount them in different places... I've always mounted them in my kick panels (it's easy, never noticed bad sound and most of all stealthy), but I'm being pushed into the a-pillars but I'm just not sure it's worth it to lose my stealth and pay ~$250 to get these made to support the tweets. Thoughts?

By the way, thanks to Horsemanwill, who helped me tremendously with my first install which taught me a good deal of what I know. Of course a thank you to the DIYMA community as well for putting up with dumb posts I've made and helping me along the way... While I'm a car audio rookie, I will help anybody I can as the community here has been great.

I'll report back tomorrow to keep everyone updated and post pics of the BitTen and tunining sessions that will take place this evening
 

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Nice job squeezing that amp in there. I was going to say turn it sideways but I see you had another amp to put in.

With DSP you can correct for path length and loudness, can't correct for your leg moving in front of the kick panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response!

Looks like I'm going to go ahead and fabricate the tweeters into the a-pillars. I was never a proponent due to how piercing they are that high up, but I've also never run active. I also don't like the idea of sacrificing my stealth look by putting the tweeters in plain sight like that (I've always mounted in the kicks), but I think a higher stage would be good.

More pics to come as soon as I get some time. Been doing a side job the last few days to pay for this stuff so I haven't been able to get up and running yet.
 

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I have my tweeters in the a-pillars on axis in my Tacoma and they also seemed ear piercing but after adjusting the levels and a little bit of eq they blend nicely now and seem to disappear. def added to stage height and overall better sound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have my tweeters in the a-pillars on axis in my Tacoma and they also seemed ear piercing but after adjusting the levels and a little bit of eq they blend nicely now and seem to disappear. def added to stage height and overall better sound.
Thanks for the info man!

I'm gonna put them slightly off axis I think. Maybe like 15 degrees. I haven't finished all my testing at this point to know for sure though.

My problem is I've currently turned the tweets all the way down at the amplifier. While I can turn them down lower at the BitTen, I feel I shouldn't need to go that far. I think I just need to spend some time with the EQ while they're on axis and slightly off and see what happens.
 

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I thought the same thing cause all my amp gains are turned all the way down and I still have to cut the tweeter levels on my dsp by 10-13 notches, or db's if that's what it is. I have both driversd on the left side just slightly lower leveled than the right and everything is blending great. justy having problems getting my dsp to save these settings so my tweeters aren't screaming at me. I figure in the end who cares where the settings are at as long as it's safe and it sounds good.
 
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