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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks, I've been trying to work out how to secure mine better, there aren't any holes where I need mine to be unfortunately

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if the carpet is pretty stiff, another thing you can do is resin it to make it even stiffer, and then glass in a stud (could be bolt and washer from the backside), and the box slides onto it and you put a nut in place. its not as secure as a rivet nut into metal, but it is to me better than simply wedging it in place or have a tab that holds onto the weatherstripping.

good luck :)

Bing
 

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if the carpet is pretty stiff, another thing you can do is resin it to make it even stiffer, and then glass in a stud (could be bolt and washer from the backside), and the box slides onto it and you put a nut in place. its not as secure as a rivet nut into metal, but it is to me better than simply wedging it in place or have a tab that holds onto the weatherstripping.

good luck :)

Bing
Ah that's an interesting idea. My enclosures have mdf at their base, and actually sit on an mdf false floor to which they're screwed too, but pushing 1kw through each enclosure they tend to still rock a bit on the low notes when playing loud, looking for a stronger mounting like yours.

I could probably get one of those rivet nuts in behind the trim and have a threaded rod poke through it with a bolt and washer on the outside against the enclosure then another on the inside of the enclosure, if that makes sense. Did you use a proper rivnut tool?

I should also add, your installs are amazing. Such good quality work with no shortcuts. I think I remember seeing this answered in another thread but I can't remember which one. Are you making custom rca's?

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Discussion Starter #25
Ah that's an interesting idea. My enclosures have mdf at their base, and actually sit on an mdf false floor to which they're screwed too, but pushing 1kw through each enclosure they tend to still rock a bit on the low notes when playing loud, looking for a stronger mounting like yours.

I could probably get one of those rivet nuts in behind the trim and have a threaded rod poke through it with a bolt and washer on the outside against the enclosure then another on the inside of the enclosure, if that makes sense. Did you use a proper rivnut tool?

I should also add, your installs are amazing. Such good quality work with no shortcuts. I think I remember seeing this answered in another thread but I can't remember which one. Are you making custom rca's?

Sent from my D5833 using Tapatalk
We've been using the hand manual rivet nut tool, I think astrology brand, since fellow diyer shinjohn showed them to me many years back...I've seen the electric or pneumatic ones but I'm scared those can bend metal if it catches.

We make our own rcas on the higher end cars or if the cable absolutely needs to be of a certain length..other wise we use pre made ones as it is far more economical on time. I haven't been able to hear much of a difference I've either case :)

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Yeah your rca's look really cool with the twisted wire. I'd be interested in making my own next build just so I don't have a meter or 2 excess I have to snake under the back seat haha

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Another beautiful instal, Bing.
Glad to see the writeup on the DA3 - and the quick update so it'll do 4-way with a pair of bandpasses.
Don't know if you have any others lined up in the meantime - I have a wireless mouse and external trackpad to loan you when you do mine! ;)

Have you ever had a chance to compare to Gladen underseat to the Jehnert XE200 as dedicated midbass? Curious to know the differences - and see how much power each really wants to see.
 

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being an avid copier of some of your other installs for my own personal vehicles, I was happy to see that you did an M5 since I just bought one a couple months ago. I thought I would be happy with the bass with the B&O system, but I'm not. So I'm looking for alternatives.

You'd mentioned that there are better options than the gladen in terms of bass output. I'm debating leaving the B&O completely in tact, and just putting a subwoofer in the pocket in the back, similar to what you did.

Can I ask :

1. does the mobridge leave the system as-is and just allow you to add a subwoofer as needed? If not can you just tap the existing subs and pass them to a Highoutput in on a sub amp (ex. hertz amps)?

2. If you were looking to add more bass than what you put in there, and maybe add just a touch more cu ft to the enclosure, what sub would you look at?

excellent installation as always!
 

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Hey Simplicityinsound, Incredible Install!!

If you can PLEASE help me out as I am struggling to choose set up in my car...

I am looking to do an install for an f06 650i gran coupe and am following your build to map it out! If you could answer a few simple questions I would be very appreciative.

1. Since there are no rear speakers, do you lose the OEM parking sensor sounds (e.g. when reversing)

2. Would you recommend the Mobridge DA3 over using a Mobridge DA1 with a Helix DSP or Helix P Six

3. Do you get any floor noise using the Arc Audio Amps? I am concerned after some complaints I've seen on this site

4. Are the Morel Hybrid mids you used 4" or 5.25"? My doors only have a maximum mounting depth of 1.75" (44mm). I can likely manage a 5.25" in there without much modification.

Given my restrictions, I could only find a few options. What would you recommend from these options...

a) Morel Hybrid 4" Slim
b) Focal ES 100k (4")
c) Hertz EMV 100.5 (5")
d) Illusion Audio Carbon C4s Slim
e) anything else that can fit my door restructions

I would prefer to avoid the Illusion Audio since it seems quite price, unless it is substantially better product.

5. Which exact woofer from Gladen did you use? I would also like to use two 8" drivers under the seat.

Like you did, I want to run a 3 way active up front with a sub in the back. I hope I would not lose my parking sensor functionality as well.

I would really appreciate it if you can guide me in the right direction.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
1. in all the mobridge units, the retain the beeps, usually coming out of the fronts, on the DA2 or 3, if i remember correctly, they go to the rear channels if you have them active into another dsp input or amp direct, if not, then goes to the front, the DA1 does not have front or rear.

2. i personally would say use a DA1 or 2 going into a separate dsp, the dsp on the da3 is decent, but takes a long time to get used to and the other dsps you mentioned have more features.

3. the arc amps, as i have found, is the same as most class D full range amps, and even some lesser class AB amps, is that when you pair it up with certain tweeters that are very very sensitive, it can give you as higher noise floor than class AB high end models. but, on tweeters such as morel, they are dead quiet and you cannot hear anything at all. but if you are using high sensitivity high drivers such as maybe audiofrog or some focals or especially HLCDs, then id suggest going with a good class AB if noise floor is something you want to avoid. and i want to emphasize that this noise floor is not audible if youre driving or playing music above a very quite level. but its there if you have the car off with nothing playing.

4. its a 4, and we have always used the morel hybrid to good effect. i cannot speak to the other drivers as i have not used them in bmws.

cheers,

b

Hey Simplicityinsound, Incredible Install!!

If you can PLEASE help me out as I am struggling to choose set up in my car...

I am looking to do an install for an f06 650i gran coupe and am following your build to map it out! If you could answer a few simple questions I would be very appreciative.

1. Since there are no rear speakers, do you lose the OEM parking sensor sounds (e.g. when reversing)

2. Would you recommend the Mobridge DA3 over using a Mobridge DA1 with a Helix DSP or Helix P Six

3. Do you get any floor noise using the Arc Audio Amps? I am concerned after some complaints I've seen on this site

4. Are the Morel Hybrid mids you used 4" or 5.25"? My doors only have a maximum mounting depth of 1.75" (44mm). I can likely manage a 5.25" in there without much modification.

Given my restrictions, I could only find a few options. What would you recommend from these options...

a) Morel Hybrid 4" Slim
b) Focal ES 100k (4")
c) Hertz EMV 100.5 (5")
d) Illusion Audio Carbon C4s Slim
e) anything else that can fit my door restructions

I would prefer to avoid the Illusion Audio since it seems quite price, unless it is substantially better product.

5. Which exact woofer from Gladen did you use? I would also like to use two 8" drivers under the seat.

Like you did, I want to run a 3 way active up front with a sub in the back. I hope I would not lose my parking sensor functionality as well.

I would really appreciate it if you can guide me in the right direction.

Thanks!
 

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Thanks for the reply!

I just bought the HELIX P SIX DSP MK2 as my first piece for the install off the marketplace here. Super excited... I'll combine that with the Mobridge DA2 as you suggested.

I am going to take the door off to see if I can fit something bigger than the 4". If not I will use the Morel Hybrid tweeters and 4" mids and gladen woofers for under the seat.

Would I be better going off doing a 6.5 by the kick panel or by making a custom enclosure in the door? If the difference is nominal, I'll stick with gladens under the seat.
 

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I know this is an older thread, but can you comment on the coding required to make the mobridge da1 work in a bmw? I have a F10 535i w/ HK sound, and I installed a mobridge da1 --> JL VXI amp. I have not yet coded the car to the mobridge, but everything is wired to the car. I have no power to the amp using the mobridge supplied remote.

Will coding the car to the mobridge also activate the remote turn on?

Any other thoughts on coding for the mobridge? I dont even know where to begin looking for someone in my area that can perform this coding.
 

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I know this is an older thread, but can you comment on the coding required to make the mobridge da1 work in a bmw? I have a F10 535i w/ HK sound, and I installed a mobridge da1 --> JL VXI amp. I have not yet coded the car to the mobridge, but everything is wired to the car. I have no power to the amp using the mobridge supplied remote.

Will coding the car to the mobridge also activate the remote turn on?

Any other thoughts on coding for the mobridge? I dont even know where to begin looking for someone in my area that can perform this coding.
I have an F10 535i w/ HK. You don’t need to “code” the car. Just need to download the software, boot it up and in settings make sure the vehicle is set to BMW. Use a PC for it.

But this should not effect the remote out wire turning on your amps I don’t believe.
 
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