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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Been lurking a bit, first time posting. I just bought a 2015 Chevrolet SS that comes with a Bose system. The stock system is absolutely terrible and lacking in bass and detail. I live in a fairly remote town so driving down the local car audio shop and listening to speakers and systems is not an option for me. I am however a reasonably handy DIY kinda guy (and love to tinker) so with a bit of advice and guidance I am certain I can put together a system that will exceed my own expectations.

As far as music, I really listen to a wide variety of Country, Rock (hard and softer), Pop, Classical, Hip Hop, Classic Rock, etc. so I will need something that performs well in all categories. With that said, the amount of time spent listening to each genre generally matches the order I presented them in above (if that matters). I do like a good bit of bass (dont want to shake the cars around me though, thats obnoxious) and I notice that if I ever reach to turn the music down its due to shrill and fatiguing highs so will definitely need a tweeter that is not too harsh (but still accurate).

I need to keep the stock head unit, but I am looking for the best way to upgrade the front stage (6.5” in doors and 1” tweeter in pillars) and add a subwoofer in the trunk. This will probably be a bit long winded, but I want to give you as much information to work with as I can.

I have not really set a budget because I’m not sure where to start. I will say that I am looking to achieve a system with good SQ at as low a budget as I can. Essentially, once the prices of components begin to hit a level of diminishing returns we are probably in a good place. I could probably stomach $500 in front-stage speakers, and then the rest of the supporting components just cost what they cost.

I have been reading about the Dayton Audio DSP-408. Is this something I should incorporate into this build or is there a better option out there for me? My initial thought was that I could utilize the factory bose amp to power the new speakers and use whatever DSP I end up with to correct and EQ the signals being sent to them (is this a poor idea?). Additionally, how do I determine what kind of signal (high or low level) my HU is sending to the factory Bose amp?

I have a subwoofer (12” Sony Xplod) and a mono amp (Alpine, 1x500W RMS) to put in place for the time being and allow me to focus on the rest of the system. Should I consider upgrading the subwoofer in the future? Not sure how the Sony compares to other subwoofers on the market.

I will be picking up some CLD, MLV, and foam (forget the acronym) to properly sound deaden the doors, trunk, and cabin floor. I’ll certainly take advice here, but think I pretty much have it covered already thanks to some great info available on this forum.

A few additional questions I have:

- Is there any benefit to replacing the 8” woofers in the rear deck since I will
be running a subwoofer in the trunk? Or should I just remove these
altogether?

- Should I look to see if the NavTV M650-GM interface is compatible with my
HU? Is this something that would benefit me, or what is the best way to go
about retrieving the best signal from the HU to send to a DSP?

- Which speakers should I consider for a semi-budget minded build with
sound quality in mind? Best value for the money essentially. I have seen
Audiofrog thrown out quite a bit, and have also seen some SB Acoustics
speakers thrown out there as excellent value for the money.


If I missed something feel free to ask. I look forward to discussing this build and am wanting to get going on it pretty soon. Thanks in advance!
 

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If you're on a budget I have a brand new set of mercury audio components for sale (in about a week) that would work very nicely. Give you a deal. As for sub also budget minded. Depending on output the image dynamics ID or IDq or even dayton audio ho or UM subs
 

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Bad ass car man, if on a real budget and you got some skills to do it yourself go ib with pyle blue wave 15s Acoustic Elegance sbp for the high end. Stevens mb8 or 6 if you can fit them. For tweets your going to need either kaxbltwts possibly Stevens tweets or spend for audiofrog, Stevens horns would work too if you go with the extra work.

Unfortunately cld, mlv, ccf, thinsulate are a must and will be ongoing chasing down rattles

They Dayton, mini dsp or helix on the high end
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info guys, I'll definitely keep it all in mind. Tried to reply earlier but for whatever reason it doesn't look like it posted...

If you give me the model numbers of those Mercury components so I can look into them a bit more I may be interested. Do you mind if I ask why you're selling them?

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Thanks for the info guys, I'll definitely keep it all in mind. Tried to reply earlier but for whatever reason it doesn't look like it posted...

If you give me the model numbers of those Mercury components so I can look into them a bit more I may be interested. Do you mind if I ask why you're selling them?

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Hard to find info on them. But it's the mercury c62 set. I have 4 sets of them. I love them

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks. Curious if anyone else has heard the Mercury C62 series and has any insight?

Also still open for answers to my original questions and additional component recommendations.

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1st - your head unit has to stay. Its not really optional on this car.

2nd - The SS is a balanced head unit and basically no matter what you do you have to use balanced input/output DSP and amplifiers so cross the cheap stuff off you list.
Failing to do this will give you a nasty steady hiss and pops galore.
the factory head unit puts out a dead flat 4-5 volt preout signal so its glorious for good equipment down the signal path. This means that Alpine amp may need to go.

3rd - even with a proper amp/dsp combo, there will be some minor hiss and a turn off pop since there is no true remote power wire for the radio since every chime in the car runs through the headunit. I have the JL TWK 88 and I maybe trying a Masconi instead to see if that can cure any of the hiss/pop.

4th - the speaker placement, specifically the tweeters are god awful on this car. A speaker swap alone doesn't do much to help. You may find like most of us that you need to correct the tweeters angle.

5th - the trunk is HUGE. I have 3 12"s and I still don't block the spare.

For the speaker selection set a budget and go listen to some stuff. I fall into the trap of everything sounds better when you read about it but the reality speakers don't sound the same to everyone so use your ears not your eyes.
There are a lot of component sets out there for around $300 that do a great job and with all different sound characteristics so you have a lot of choice. After that $300-$350 mark; I feel you start getting less and less per dollar spent.

For your sub, if you liked it before, keep it. Also, take the 8s out of the car. its better to open up the trunk to vent more into the cabin for your new sub. You don't want those 8s basically being passive radiators and you definitely don't want them playing.
 

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Thanks. Curious if anyone else has heard the Mercury C62 series and has any insight?

Also still open for answers to my original questions and additional component recommendations.

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Larry chijner did a review on them. But that's probably all you'll see.

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
1st - your head unit has to stay. Its not really optional on this car.



2nd - The SS is a balanced head unit and basically no matter what you do you have to use balanced input/output DSP and amplifiers so cross the cheap stuff off you list.

Failing to do this will give you a nasty steady hiss and pops galore.

the factory head unit puts out a dead flat 4-5 volt preout signal so its glorious for good equipment down the signal path. This means that Alpine amp may need to go.



3rd - even with a proper amp/dsp combo, there will be some minor hiss and a turn off pop since there is no true remote power wire for the radio since every chime in the car runs through the headunit. I have the JL TWK 88 and I maybe trying a Masconi instead to see if that can cure any of the hiss/pop.



4th - the speaker placement, specifically the tweeters are god awful on this car. A speaker swap alone doesn't do much to help. You may find like most of us that you need to correct the tweeters angle.



5th - the trunk is HUGE. I have 3 12"s and I still don't block the spare.



For the speaker selection set a budget and go listen to some stuff. I fall into the trap of everything sounds better when you read about it but the reality speakers don't sound the same to everyone so use your ears not your eyes.

There are a lot of component sets out there for around $300 that do a great job and with all different sound characteristics so you have a lot of choice. After that $300-$350 mark; I feel you start getting less and less per dollar spent.



For your sub, if you liked it before, keep it. Also, take the 8s out of the car. its better to open up the trunk to vent more into the cabin for your new sub. You don't want those 8s basically being passive radiators and you definitely don't want them playing.
Thanks for the info. Yeah I had planned to keep the HU.

Do you have a build thread anywhere showing what you ended up putting together?

How did you go about adjusting the tweeter angle? I had considered that, but haven't gotten far enough along yet to try anything obviously.

Yeah the trunk is definitely massive. I was also thinking removing the 8's was the best plan, thanks for confirming.


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2nd - The SS is a balanced head unit and basically no matter what you do you have to use balanced input/output DSP and amplifiers so cross the cheap stuff off you list.
Failing to do this will give you a nasty steady hiss and pops galore.
the factory head unit puts out a dead flat 4-5 volt preout signal so its glorious for good equipment down the signal path. This means that Alpine amp may need to go.[/QUOTE]

Why would he need a balanced in/out dsp? Wouldn't the JL TWK work with balanced inputs only?
 

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Why would he need a balanced in/out dsp? Wouldn't the JL TWK work with balanced inputs only?
Why does the car still hiss and pop with a completely balanced circuitry?
In all honesty I have no idea and I have failed to get an electrical engineer to give a damn to investigate.

I found that even the TWK was not enough to buffer the REALLY bad noise caused by my ST-X amplifiers and a loaner amp I used for testing. I had to swap in the power RF amps to get it livable. Its worth a try but make sure to put on lights and actually drive around under load.
 

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Why does the car still hiss and pop with a completely balanced circuitry?
In all honesty I have no idea and I have failed to get an electrical engineer to give a damn to investigate.

I found that even the TWK was not enough to buffer the REALLY bad noise caused by my ST-X amplifiers and a loaner amp I used for testing. I had to swap in the power RF amps to get it livable. Its worth a try but make sure to put on lights and actually drive around under load.
Hard to say as long as your cable runs are good and you have the proper cables in/out. Maybe one of the installers on here can answer that. I have a friend with an Accord with a balanced HU. He uses the JL TWK and doesn't have noise problems. It's kinda hard to find a dsp with balanced in and out
 

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PS8 Pro has balanced inputs: The PS8-PRO includes eight channels of balanced differential RCA input, capable of up to 32 volts of signal from low-level RCA or speaker-level inputs.
 

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I know the minidsp balanced has balanced in/out but do any other have balanced outputs? I think that is what op is wanting to try
 
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