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Discussion Starter #1
I own a 2015 Porsche Carrera, and this is my build log. Welcome!




The car came with the stock Sound Package Plus (no Bose or Burmester upgrades). The head unit has stock low-level output and remote to an ASK amplifier that lives under the passenger seat, and that amplifier drives 9 speakers. There's a center channel in the dash, two tweeters in the dash (that a wired in parallel with a 4" in the each door), 4" in the doors, 8" in the doors, and two 4" in the rear.



Schematic of the PCM (head unit) output, and amp/speaker wiring.


You can see my journey up this point in my previous thread, over in the "Help me choose" forum: https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/system-design-help-me-choose-equipment-my-car/413729-3-way-system-2015-911-a.html

Cliffs Notes: I wasn't impressed with the stock Sound Package Plus package in my C2. I replaced the tweeters in the stock locations first with some inexpensive DA tweeters that impressed me, but I had plans to go further. Removed the stock amp, made wiring harness adapters, and installed a Helix V Eight DSP and ran some new speaker wires for the tweeters. Still not enough, I installed some DA RS100p's and Focal ISS-200's in the doors. Did some Noico deadening on the outer door, inner door skin, and door panel. That leads us to here.

Some pics so far...




 

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Discussion Starter #2
So what's next?

I'm going to swap the front stage for Esotec MD-102 tweeters, MD-142 mids, and MW-172 woofers. I'll 3D print new brackets for the tweeters and mids, and I'll re-use the adapter I made for the ISS-200. These should be in by end of next week. I also plan to pull the inner door card when I have the panel off again & add some more Noico; when I did it the first time I just reached up through the 8" woofer hole, and only part of the outer door is covered. May as well do the rest, I have a ton of the stuff left.

I'm also going to have Mobile Toys in College Station, TX design & build a subwoofer box for me. It's going to go on the rear parcel shelf. I know this is DIY mobile audio, but I want it to look GOOOD, and I trust them to do exactly that. It'll be an Illusion Audio C10 driven by a Mosconi D2 500.1. The Mosconi will be installed under the seat with the Helix.

Hope to have this all installed by the end of the month. I have plans to have the sub box built & installed the week after next, so if everything goes right, in two weeks or so, this should be a fully installed. I can't wait.

I'll update the thread with pictures & info as I make progress.
 

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Followed the bread crumbs over. I look forward to seeing the updates.
 

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Good stuff! Looking forward to seeing the speaker swap update. As I mentioned in the other thread the boys at Mobile Toys will do a good job with the sub box. Maybe they could get a base tune on the car as well.

They have some amazing comps in College Station - I’ve been to a couple of them - there’s some guys you need to hook up with like Howard and Chad - several others. Look up the Aggieland comps on DIYMA - could compete or just go and listen to great cars.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Where did you source the OEM style speaker connectors? Or is it an actual Porsche part? If so, could you share the part number?
There are two different connectors in use. The tweeters and front/rear 4" use one, and the woofer use a different. I just cut them off and replaced them with different connectors. The others are clipped into the speakers I took out, they'll be easy to replace.

Here are the connectors I'm using for the speakers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XBLLG5S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I didn't cut the amp wiring harness, though. I got a 987 Cayman amp and removed the connectors; they're nearly identical. And I made wiring adapters from those connectors.



 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Sunday evening update.

I pulled the door panels off to do some more Noico on the outer door wall. I pulled the door panel, removed the speakers, and then mostly removed the inner door skin - enough for me to reach in & add some more Noico to the sides of the doors I couldn't reach through the woofer hole.

PS> Yeah, I know my pics suck. They're always an afterthought and the lighting in the garage sucks. :shrug:

Pile of door panels:

Door with speakers out:

Between the inner door panel & the outer door metal:



After I got the inner door panels back on, I started thinking about mounting the MD-142's. Turns out, they won't fit in the holes I have. And I don't know if you can remove the speakers from the cup they're shipped in, to mount them in something custom. I posted about it here: https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/general-car-audio-discussion/415105-dynaudio-md-102-md-142-mounting.html

So yeah, I'm 50/50 about whether or not I think you can de-cup the MD-142. And so I decided to go with speakers I know will fit, and i was able to change the order from MD-142's to Esotar 430's. So I've got that going for me, which is nice.

Since I had the doors apart, I decided to go ahead & mount the MW-172's. I wasn't happy with the brackets I made the first time; the HDPE rings were great, but CA glue WILL NOT adhere to HDPE, and I ended up rings screwed to the ABS adapter, and it just bugged me. So I re-used the rings, routered out new ABS adapters, and glued them together with some JB Weld plastics epoxy I got at the Home Despot. I also drilled & tapped 6 4mm holes for metric fasteners as well from the back side. Those adapters are now super-solid. I could drive over them in my car & they'd be fine. For posterity & google searches: The ABS brackets are .236" thick, and the HDPE rings are 1" thick. The window doesn't hit the speakers, which I was little concerned about at first (they're deeper than the Focal's they replaced).

So here's a bad picture of the MW-172's in the doors:


The car now has the DA ND20FB-4 tweeters in the dash, MW-172's in the doors, and a pair of DA RS100p-4 in the rear speaker positions. I'm waiting on the MD-102 tweeters for the dash swap, and the Esotar 430's for the doors.

I've also been prototyping a DIY remote for the Helix. Here's the first prototype of the box; I've wired up an ethernet cable to an 8-pin Mini-DIN connector to connect to the Helix already. This has changed a bunch; I'm making something more complex to mount under the passenger seat within easy reach of the driver's seat. I don't want it visible, putting it in the glovebox sounds like a PITA to get to, and I don't want to give up any center console storage space. I only want the one remote for sub volume, and a switch for swapping DSP presets; I don't care about the system volume, so a second knob like the URC.3 is almost a downside for me. The LED changes color based on which way the switch is thrown; think I'm going to delete that, as you don't need it under the seat. And I'll be able to feel which way the switch is pointed.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
MD-102's and Esotar 430's should be delivered tomorrow! Things are progressing nicely.

My custom Helix remote control is nearly done. I'm done with the box and cabling, all I have to do is solder in a couple of connections in the box, and then it's testing in the car time. There's a convenient ledge under the passenger seat that I'm planning on velcro-ing it to. There's a potentiometer to control sub volume, a switch to swap between two presets, a cut-through to secure it tightly with velro, and a mount for an ethernet keystone jack (the type you see in a wall plate). I used an ethernet cable, and went from Mini-Din 8 (the connector at the Helix) to a Cat5 ethernet plug. This will plug into the remote box, so I can disassemble & change if I ever want to.

Box with a 3-D printed potentiometer knob:


Cable:


A mock-up for the mount of the keystone ethernet jack... needed to prototype it before burning it into the full box:


And I'm getting ready to kick off the printer with two adapters for the Esotar 430's. This is Tinkercad; it's a free, simple, online CAD that any dummy can use and learn quickly if you can stack shapes and holes:


As long as those E430 adapters work, I just have to finish up the tweeter bracket design, print them, and put it all together! Exciting. They system sounds remarkably good with just a pair of MW-172's and the DA 3/4" tweets in it; I can't wait to see how it sounds with the MD-102's and the E430's. And then next week, the sub goes in if everything goes to plan!

Speaking of the MD-102, I'm planning on putting 22uF caps in series with them and "oh shit I screwed up a crossover" ejection handles. The DC resistance of the MD-102 is 5.6ohm, and with a 22uF cap, it gives me 1300Hz. This is exactly the Fs of the MD-102, and it's ~1.5 octaves below where my crossovers will likely be set. I have 33uF (lower freq than I'd like) and 10uF (less that 1 octave clearance from 5kHz). If anyone thinks I should use a different cap, I'd love to know.
 

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I really like that car, looking good!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The fucking holes don't line up. Did I read the drawing wrong? It says 4mm holes on 110mm centers. ARGGGHH more hours of printing before I can install them now.



I did get the tweeter brackets drawn. I'm printing a low res version of the cup to make sure I got it right....

 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
The holes are 101. The outside diameter of the speaker is 110.
Yeah, I see what I did wrong. That was a bad joke above. I had the drawing up on my second monitor while doing it, so I'm not sure how I screwed it up. Can't divide 101 by 2 maybe? Or I just got 110 in my head like a dummy. Who knows? Anyway, I screwed it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Progress! Since I had to redraw & reprint the Esotar 430 brackets, and I had the door panels off, I took the time to add some Noico around the MW-172's. I've had the door panels on & off enough now that I was reasonably comfortable nothing would hinder me getting the panel back on by doing it. The panels aren't like others I've worked on; they have hooks on the outer panel that slide into retainers on the inner panel. So there's some vertical motion getting the panel off & on; it doesn't just bolt straight on. It's just these hooks/loops retainers and 4 bolts. This is one of the several reasons I'm also not going to mess with Fast Rings; I'm pretty sure they'd just get fubared when the outer panel goes back on.



Then I spent some time finishing up the remote control. It's done! Came out pretty well, for what it is.





And finally, the new brackets finished printing. I recessed some 3mm nuts into the bracket this time for mounting the speakers; it worked great.




 

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Very nice, man!!!
 
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