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2,452 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Sold my Audi A4 Avant last week, and while sad to see it go, I know it has gone to a great new home and it was time for something different, but the same, enter another white wagon, only this time in the shape of a 2015 Volvo V60 T6 R-Design. It's AWD with a 325HP turbocharged inline 6, only slightly heavier than my A4 was, it's a rocket, driving home from picking it up I had to constantly be careful of my speed as it was all too easy to be at 80+ Couple pictures of the car:

I already debadged it, other visual changes are going to be tinted windows and lower it about half an inch or so. I don't want it as low as my A4 was, but want it lower than the stock height it currently sits at.

It came stock with the "Volvo High Performance" system, which is 3 way in the front doors, 2 in the rear and a center (I read somewhere that it is a 12 speaker set up, but I cannot figure out the 12th speaker as it has no factory sub). Eventually that will all be replaced with the below, and a Stereo Integrity SQL12 (not pictured):

So today, I decided to remove the door card to take a look at what I will be starting with. The tweeter in the sail panel just pops off, but it looks like the tweeter is somewhat sealed into the housing. In the picture below you can see the cross hatch pattern where it looks like the 2 halves were melted together. Since I don't want to demolish this, looks like I need to order some new tweeter housings:

The factory midrange is screwed to the doorcard on a little plastic mount, hopefully as long as there is enough depth (99% sure there is) then I can simply make my own mounting plate and install the 20MX in this location:

The midbass is mounted to the door itself, but located directly beneath the mid. Looks like plenty of depth to mount the TM65's so no major concerns there:

Here's where things get a little confusing, at least for me. So, the molex plug boot is in a sort of Z shape, getting 3 sets of wire through is going to be a massive headache. I had hoped to tap into the stock speaker wiring, I don't run huge amounts of power, so the stock wire should be fine for me and I will just splice my own wire into it inside the kick panel. But, at the moment I cannot figure out how it's wired (not yet pulled the molex plug, hoping I can get lucky). So, here is the wiring for the tweeter and mid:

The wires are the exact same color, even the plugs are identical. Here's the wiring going to the midbass:

4 wires, no clue why. I am going to try to find some wiring diagrams, hopefully that sheds some light on things and ideally I can use existing wire through the molex. I cannot stand trying to fish wires into the doors, so am hoping for some luck. Once I get that figured, I will deaden the outer skin as much as I can and then the inner skin (the drivers door rattles like crazy).

Last picture is a quick measurement with REW of the stock system, all the EQ is flat (has a 5 band in the head unit). In all honesty, it does not sound that bad other than the complete lack of anything below 35Hz.

Over the next couple weeks I am hoping to pick up power cable and deadener and then start getting things installed. Make sure to follow to see all my screw ups!!

Human (not a robot)
2,365 Posts
I'm excited for you! Do you think all the wires are the same since you only need the 2 wires from the radio and then all the speakers are just run passive off of that pair of wires? I don't know anything so keep that in mind...

2,452 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I don't know anything so keep that in mind...
Makes 2 of us, that could make sense though. It has a factory amp under the passengers seat, maybe a single set of wires goes into the door with a full range signal and gets split somewhere inside the door. While a neat solution, it won't help me with getting 3 sets of wire into the doors.

185 Posts

This may help out:

Post by packetfire » Tue Jul 07, 2015 10:28 pm

Here's the wires (my 2001 v70 should be exactly the same as your 2003, but note that these are my notes from a 2001 v70)

Green Connector (Connector A)
Pin 1 - Fat red wire - Power from fuse 11C/16 (Fuse panel behind headlight switch, #16)
Pin 2 - Violet wire - Power from fuse 11C/15 (Fuse panel behind headlight switch, #15)
Pin 7 - White wire - Data bus
Pin 8 - Green Wire - Data bus
Pin 9 - Blu/White - Power to antenna amps
Pin 10 - Red/Gray - Plus lead to center dash speaker, if any (16/26)
Pin 11 - Gray - Minus lead to center dash speaker, if any (16/26)
Pin 12 - Fat Brown wire - Ground

Gray Connector (Connector B)
Pin 1 Gray/Red - Plus lead to Front Left Speakers (16/4)
Pin 2 Gray - Minus lead to Front Left Speakers (16/4)

Pin 5 Gray/Red - Plus lead to Front Right Speakers (16/3)
Pin 6 Gray - Minus lead to Front Right Speakers (16/3)

Pin 7 Gray/White - Plus lead to Rear Right Speakers (16/6)
Pin 8 Gray - Minus lead to Rear Right Speakers (16/6)

Pin 11 Gray/White - Plus lead to Rear Left Speakers (16/5)
Pin 12 Gray - Minus lead to Rear Left Speakers (16/5)

Looking into the pins of the connectors, Pin 1 at upper left, pin 7 at lower left, but look on the back, the pins are numbered where the wires enter the connector. "Up" is the surface with the clip.

Speaker Designations in Wiring Diagram
16/3 - FR
16/4 - FL
16/5 - RL
16/6 - RR
16/17 - Deck Left
16/18 - Deck Right
16/26 - Center Dash Spkr (if any)
16/57 - Left Far Rear Spkr (V70s)
16/58 - Right Far Rear Spkr (V70s)

Subwoofer wiring is connected to the rear speaker wires, if your car is fitted with a subwoofer, so the subwoofer crossover must be at the subwoofer, not up behind the dash.

You will face several problems:

Problem 1: You have no wire to tell the radio when your headlights are on, so the radio display can dim. You'll have to run one.

Problem 2: You have to feed 10 volts to the blue white wire to power the antenna amps, or you have to install an actual antenna.

See this thread for details on the "10 volts" issue: ... eption.htm

But I did not like the antennas and amps, and just unplugged the cable from the antenna amp associated with the rear window in the cargo bay roof behind the driver, and ran a simple wire as an antenna up through the roof (gasp! I drilled a HOLE!), and inside the driver's side load rail. Works far better than the amplified antennas in the window glass.

Problem 3: There is just no way to make the steering wheel buttons do much of anything without a lot of work. I installed a little remote control for my aftermarket AM/FM/HD/Bluetooth/CD/SD card radio, and wired the volume and up/down channel buttons to the buttons on the steering wheel buttons, but this was a real craft project, not for anyone but an electrical engineer, and I have to replace the battery every 6 months or so, working very near the airbag. Maybe let the buttons be. There are kits out there, but they do not seem to be compatible with Canbus cars.

Problem 4: The CEM will complain that it cannot find the AUM when you plug in VIDA, and there is no way to tell the CEM that the AUM is not ever coming home. So, ignore the error.

Problem 5: You will now have much better sound, and you will then feel the need for much better speakers, at which point you will find that all the speakers are RIVETED into place. You will drill them out, and buy self-tapping sheet metal screws, and wonder what the Volvo designers were thinking when they put "rivet" and "speaker" in the same sentence.

Also from Volvo FOums US.

THanks to:
Kiss4aFrog is offline

Administrator at Volvo Forums.

Also from Mathews site:

Another user here has done the same car albeit a Coupe.

Also...From that thread:
On to what turned out to be a much bigger job than expected: the doors.

Originally plan was to run some wires through the boot and make a quick adapter, seal, deaden and be done. After taking a look at the molex, and considering my desire to run 3 sets of 16ga wire, this happened:

Hardest part was resolving to do it. There was even already a plugged grommet on the outside of the kickpanel that I was able to use (you can see it in the first pic). Luckily, my wife was out of town for a few days so I didn't have to explain why I was taking the doors off my weeks old car.

Some techflex, grommets, silicone and a snake and I had my very own boot.

As you can see from the door pic, the inside panel is one big piece of plastic. No holes, which is good, but no access to the outer panel for applying dampening, which is bad. Getting these things off was a real PITA—window actuator, handles, everything is attached to it.

Couldn't for the life of me figure how to get it off until a lot of googling led to another install manual here. A lot of cursing and a few beers later, and I had the doors deadened and back together. Can't honestly say I would do this part again now that I know what it takes.

Now for the baffle. I didn't feel comfortable mounting the speaker to the plastic panel—was afraid it would flex too much. Enter the Mother of All Baffles.

Got some inch think HDPE and cut a shape that would use the factory bolt holes on two of its three sides to mount directly to the metal of the panel. Not pretty, but strong like bull. If/when I upgrade the front stage I'll make a new one with room for the mid-range.

Bolted it down on top of the CCF, and used some butyl rope to seal the inside.

The tweeters were easy. They were just squeezed right up into the sail panel and "secured" with some more butyl rope.

He used techflex.

That should get you up and running.

2,452 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, I actually sent @swiffcliff a PM about a week or so asking him questions about his install. While I like the idea of just running a new boot for the speaker wire, in his experience drilling the new hole in the sheet metal of the door was challenging enough that he would try the molex if having to do it again.

Worst piece of an install, running wires. Not even yet looked at how I am going to get the power wire to the trunk!

2,452 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Slow progress, but progress....

Got the holes drilled into the door for the new rubber boot and speaker wire. Going to pick up some touch up paint tomorrow to paint the bare metal to protect it against the elements a little. Drilling was not as simple as hoped, but not crazy. Had to remove the door card, then pop the molex plug out from inside the door to make sure that none of the factory wiring was going to be impacted by the drill. Once that was done, the metal is 2 layers, which made drilling not quite as straight forward, but not terrible either. Getting the doors off and back on was actually incredibly simple.

Here's a better shot of the grommet on the kick panel side of things:

And here is why I was not going to even attempt to drill the molex, no way was I going to be able to get 3 sets of speaker wire through there.

So, next is going to be running some wire towards the trunk. I can't deaden the doors just yet, there is a recall on Volvo door latches, which the repair involves them stripping the inner door entirely to get to the latch. If I put deadening over there, then they will have to rip it all off. I am slightly reluctant to even put the speakers in to be honest, but apparently Volvo will not even have parts until April.

2,452 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Another little update, previously I have always used spade connectors onto the speaker at the end of the run coming into the door itself. Decided to try XT60 connectors and make little pigtails to make life a little simpler:

Was getting annoyed with things until I picked up some decent solder, made life a whole lot easier then. These should actually come in handy if I do decide to install the speakers before the recall work as I can quickly unplug the speakers to get them out of the way of any dealer tech before taking it in.

683 Posts
Popcorn ready, looking forward to more.
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