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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Sold my Audi A4 Avant last week, and while sad to see it go, I know it has gone to a great new home and it was time for something different, but the same, enter another white wagon, only this time in the shape of a 2015 Volvo V60 T6 R-Design. It's AWD with a 325HP turbocharged inline 6, only slightly heavier than my A4 was, it's a rocket, driving home from picking it up I had to constantly be careful of my speed as it was all too easy to be at 80+ Couple pictures of the car:




I already debadged it, other visual changes are going to be tinted windows and lower it about half an inch or so. I don't want it as low as my A4 was, but want it lower than the stock height it currently sits at.

It came stock with the "Volvo High Performance" system, which is 3 way in the front doors, 2 in the rear and a center (I read somewhere that it is a 12 speaker set up, but I cannot figure out the 12th speaker as it has no factory sub). Eventually that will all be replaced with the below, and a Stereo Integrity SQL12 (not pictured):



So today, I decided to remove the door card to take a look at what I will be starting with. The tweeter in the sail panel just pops off, but it looks like the tweeter is somewhat sealed into the housing. In the picture below you can see the cross hatch pattern where it looks like the 2 halves were melted together. Since I don't want to demolish this, looks like I need to order some new tweeter housings:




The factory midrange is screwed to the doorcard on a little plastic mount, hopefully as long as there is enough depth (99% sure there is) then I can simply make my own mounting plate and install the 20MX in this location:




The midbass is mounted to the door itself, but located directly beneath the mid. Looks like plenty of depth to mount the TM65's so no major concerns there:





Here's where things get a little confusing, at least for me. So, the molex plug boot is in a sort of Z shape, getting 3 sets of wire through is going to be a massive headache. I had hoped to tap into the stock speaker wiring, I don't run huge amounts of power, so the stock wire should be fine for me and I will just splice my own wire into it inside the kick panel. But, at the moment I cannot figure out how it's wired (not yet pulled the molex plug, hoping I can get lucky). So, here is the wiring for the tweeter and mid:



The wires are the exact same color, even the plugs are identical. Here's the wiring going to the midbass:



4 wires, no clue why. I am going to try to find some wiring diagrams, hopefully that sheds some light on things and ideally I can use existing wire through the molex. I cannot stand trying to fish wires into the doors, so am hoping for some luck. Once I get that figured, I will deaden the outer skin as much as I can and then the inner skin (the drivers door rattles like crazy).

Last picture is a quick measurement with REW of the stock system, all the EQ is flat (has a 5 band in the head unit). In all honesty, it does not sound that bad other than the complete lack of anything below 35Hz.


Over the next couple weeks I am hoping to pick up power cable and deadener and then start getting things installed. Make sure to follow to see all my screw ups!!
 

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I'm excited for you! Do you think all the wires are the same since you only need the 2 wires from the radio and then all the speakers are just run passive off of that pair of wires? I don't know anything so keep that in mind...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't know anything so keep that in mind...
Makes 2 of us, that could make sense though. It has a factory amp under the passengers seat, maybe a single set of wires goes into the door with a full range signal and gets split somewhere inside the door. While a neat solution, it won't help me with getting 3 sets of wire into the doors.
 

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I LOVE VOLVO's!

This may help out:

RE: 2003 V70 RADIO WIRE LABELS
Post by packetfire » Tue Jul 07, 2015 10:28 pm

Here's the wires (my 2001 v70 should be exactly the same as your 2003, but note that these are my notes from a 2001 v70)

Green Connector (Connector A)
============================
Pin 1 - Fat red wire - Power from fuse 11C/16 (Fuse panel behind headlight switch, #16)
Pin 2 - Violet wire - Power from fuse 11C/15 (Fuse panel behind headlight switch, #15)
Pin 7 - White wire - Data bus
Pin 8 - Green Wire - Data bus
Pin 9 - Blu/White - Power to antenna amps
Pin 10 - Red/Gray - Plus lead to center dash speaker, if any (16/26)
Pin 11 - Gray - Minus lead to center dash speaker, if any (16/26)
Pin 12 - Fat Brown wire - Ground

Gray Connector (Connector B)
=========================
Pin 1 Gray/Red - Plus lead to Front Left Speakers (16/4)
Pin 2 Gray - Minus lead to Front Left Speakers (16/4)

Pin 5 Gray/Red - Plus lead to Front Right Speakers (16/3)
Pin 6 Gray - Minus lead to Front Right Speakers (16/3)

Pin 7 Gray/White - Plus lead to Rear Right Speakers (16/6)
Pin 8 Gray - Minus lead to Rear Right Speakers (16/6)

Pin 11 Gray/White - Plus lead to Rear Left Speakers (16/5)
Pin 12 Gray - Minus lead to Rear Left Speakers (16/5)

Looking into the pins of the connectors, Pin 1 at upper left, pin 7 at lower left, but look on the back, the pins are numbered where the wires enter the connector. "Up" is the surface with the clip.

Speaker Designations in Wiring Diagram
=================================
16/3 - FR
16/4 - FL
16/5 - RL
16/6 - RR
16/17 - Deck Left
16/18 - Deck Right
16/26 - Center Dash Spkr (if any)
16/57 - Left Far Rear Spkr (V70s)
16/58 - Right Far Rear Spkr (V70s)

Subwoofer wiring is connected to the rear speaker wires, if your car is fitted with a subwoofer, so the subwoofer crossover must be at the subwoofer, not up behind the dash.

You will face several problems:

Problem 1: You have no wire to tell the radio when your headlights are on, so the radio display can dim. You'll have to run one.

Problem 2: You have to feed 10 volts to the blue white wire to power the antenna amps, or you have to install an actual antenna.

See this thread for details on the "10 volts" issue:
http://www.volvo-forums.com/t15342-st-2 ... eption.htm

But I did not like the antennas and amps, and just unplugged the cable from the antenna amp associated with the rear window in the cargo bay roof behind the driver, and ran a simple wire as an antenna up through the roof (gasp! I drilled a HOLE!), and inside the driver's side load rail. Works far better than the amplified antennas in the window glass.

Problem 3: There is just no way to make the steering wheel buttons do much of anything without a lot of work. I installed a little remote control for my aftermarket AM/FM/HD/Bluetooth/CD/SD card radio, and wired the volume and up/down channel buttons to the buttons on the steering wheel buttons, but this was a real craft project, not for anyone but an electrical engineer, and I have to replace the battery every 6 months or so, working very near the airbag. Maybe let the buttons be. There are kits out there, but they do not seem to be compatible with Canbus cars.

Problem 4: The CEM will complain that it cannot find the AUM when you plug in VIDA, and there is no way to tell the CEM that the AUM is not ever coming home. So, ignore the error.

Problem 5: You will now have much better sound, and you will then feel the need for much better speakers, at which point you will find that all the speakers are RIVETED into place. You will drill them out, and buy self-tapping sheet metal screws, and wonder what the Volvo designers were thinking when they put "rivet" and "speaker" in the same sentence.

Also from Volvo FOums US.

THanks to:
Kiss4aFrog
Kiss4aFrog is offline

Administrator at Volvo Forums.





Also from Mathews site:




Another user here has done the same car albeit a Coupe.



Also...From that thread:
On to what turned out to be a much bigger job than expected: the doors.

Originally plan was to run some wires through the boot and make a quick adapter, seal, deaden and be done. After taking a look at the molex, and considering my desire to run 3 sets of 16ga wire, this happened:




Hardest part was resolving to do it. There was even already a plugged grommet on the outside of the kickpanel that I was able to use (you can see it in the first pic). Luckily, my wife was out of town for a few days so I didn't have to explain why I was taking the doors off my weeks old car.

Some techflex, grommets, silicone and a snake and I had my very own boot.



As you can see from the door pic, the inside panel is one big piece of plastic. No holes, which is good, but no access to the outer panel for applying dampening, which is bad. Getting these things off was a real PITA—window actuator, handles, everything is attached to it.

Couldn't for the life of me figure how to get it off until a lot of googling led to another install manual here. A lot of cursing and a few beers later, and I had the doors deadened and back together. Can't honestly say I would do this part again now that I know what it takes.



Now for the baffle. I didn't feel comfortable mounting the speaker to the plastic panel—was afraid it would flex too much. Enter the Mother of All Baffles.



Got some inch think HDPE and cut a shape that would use the factory bolt holes on two of its three sides to mount directly to the metal of the panel. Not pretty, but strong like bull. If/when I upgrade the front stage I'll make a new one with room for the mid-range.

Bolted it down on top of the CCF, and used some butyl rope to seal the inside.






The tweeters were easy. They were just squeezed right up into the sail panel and "secured" with some more butyl rope.



He used techflex.

That should get you up and running.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, I actually sent @swiffcliff a PM about a week or so asking him questions about his install. While I like the idea of just running a new boot for the speaker wire, in his experience drilling the new hole in the sheet metal of the door was challenging enough that he would try the molex if having to do it again.

Worst piece of an install, running wires. Not even yet looked at how I am going to get the power wire to the trunk!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Slow progress, but progress....




Got the holes drilled into the door for the new rubber boot and speaker wire. Going to pick up some touch up paint tomorrow to paint the bare metal to protect it against the elements a little. Drilling was not as simple as hoped, but not crazy. Had to remove the door card, then pop the molex plug out from inside the door to make sure that none of the factory wiring was going to be impacted by the drill. Once that was done, the metal is 2 layers, which made drilling not quite as straight forward, but not terrible either. Getting the doors off and back on was actually incredibly simple.

Here's a better shot of the grommet on the kick panel side of things:



And here is why I was not going to even attempt to drill the molex, no way was I going to be able to get 3 sets of speaker wire through there.



So, next is going to be running some wire towards the trunk. I can't deaden the doors just yet, there is a recall on Volvo door latches, which the repair involves them stripping the inner door entirely to get to the latch. If I put deadening over there, then they will have to rip it all off. I am slightly reluctant to even put the speakers in to be honest, but apparently Volvo will not even have parts until April.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Another little update, previously I have always used spade connectors onto the speaker at the end of the run coming into the door itself. Decided to try XT60 connectors and make little pigtails to make life a little simpler:



Was getting annoyed with things until I picked up some decent solder, made life a whole lot easier then. These should actually come in handy if I do decide to install the speakers before the recall work as I can quickly unplug the speakers to get them out of the way of any dealer tech before taking it in.
 

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Popcorn ready, looking forward to more.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
A couple more updates, getting power wire through the firewall into the cabin first. This was a giant headache due to the lack of room, thickness of insulation etc. First thing I had to do is find a grommet, I knew there was one as @swiffcliff had managed to run power wire. But just had to find it, what I had to do is pop this cover off here where the strut brace is. The red circle indicates a grommet you are looking for:



Here is the grommet:



Inside the car, with the glovebox and a couple other bits of plastic removed around the door (kick panel trim, side of dash) I was then able to pull the carpet back and then some thick foam padding in order to see where the power wire should hopefully come in at. Feeling through the grommet at the top, I could feel the foam so knew it would be there somewhere.Initially I spent far too long trying to feed the power wire in from the top, bear in mind if you have even remotely large arms, fitting your arm in that hole by the strut brace to get at the grommet is going to suck. My forearm feels like it was shut in a door, you have to sort of put your arm parallel to the cowl there and bend your wrist to access the hole. So, after much cursing I gave up. The next morning I figured I would try and come in from the footwell with a wire coat hanger, feed it up under the insulation and hope I could see it at the grommet to pull it out there. Nope, not a chance. I then decided to try feeding the coat hanger in from the grommet at the top, while making sure to be careful so as not to damage anything. The first couple tries it felt like the hanger hit something solid, that pushed it horizontally along the dash. I was about to give up when I heard a sound of a wire coat hanger hit something in the foot well. Walked around to look and I saw this:



Success! I followed the hanger back and could feel where it came into the cabin behind the PCM here just to the left of the wiring harness bundles.



Back under the hood I used a bunch of electrical tape to secure the power wire to the coat hanger. I had my wife pull the coat hanger from inside while I tried to feed the wire in from the top. Even doing this it was slow going and I had this sense the wire would slip off, which sure enough, it did. Since it felt like we had managed to get the wire someway into the car I decided to reach up behind the PCM just to see if I could feel anything, while the power wire had slipped off the hanger there, it had come through enough that I was able to get my hand behind the box and pull the wire all the way through.



Under the hood it's a straight shot from where the grommet is located across to the battery box beneath the plastic cowl. I am not sure yet how to secure it without it interfering with anything under there, but I think it is clear of the wiper motors anyway so should be simple to run it over to the battery. I think there are heater pipes there as well, my concern with those is them getting hot enough to melt the wire, I don't know that they will, but am not sure (if anyone knows how hot those get and if it would be safe, let me know)

Next was onto the speaker wire, I had already drilled the hole in the doors and had planned to use a pair of these Electric-Life Flexible Inclined Rubber Door Wire Looms 4301-70-011 and then feed the wires through this large grommet in the kick panel area:



The center of that grommet is perfectly sized to seal against that boot. Thinking I could just snake the wires through the grommet and into the cabin, I started hunting around for an entry from the grommet. Which, apparently there is none. At least not a usable one in any visible location. Another quick message to @swiffcliff and he confirmed that yep, have to drill another hole on the inside. Peeling back the carpet at the front edge of the doors, I drilled another hole here and was then able to feed the wire through.



Pulled the back seat cushion, upper and lower B-pillar trim, lower front and rear door trim and was then able to route my speaker wire and power wires alongside the factory wiring until finally they appeared here:



Finally, it feels like I am making some progress. The only other wires I now need to get into the trunk are going to be the signal tapped from the stock amp under the passengers seat, which hopefully (hahaha) won't be that difficult. Started trying to think of how to mount things in the trunk yesterday, the floor of the trunk lifts up to reveal quite a lot of space, I am tempted to make use of the insert under there as a sort of ready made amp rack. It's fairly thin, so I am thinking of attaching some wood/plastic beneath it and bolting the amps / DSP etc down through that.



Pro's with going this route, it's virtually ready, cons are it being flimsy. It's molded fairly tightly to everything underneath it, for example at one point I had the speaker wire resting near the air compressor and it would not go back down. The other option is to build something to go here:



Then simply mount everything to that. If it fits, I could make a large enough board that will cover the air compressor still and carpet it to match the trunk. I need to take some measurements though to see if I can get a flat piece of board to cover everything under there. Once I get the trunk figured out and the signal wires to the trunk, then things should go fairly quickly as it will just be a case of mounting speakers (not doing any sound deadening until recall is complete) and plugging everything in.
 

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Subscribed! The wife has a 2016 S60 T5.
 
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I did something similar in my Nissan Titan truck. I mounted my amps on the factory carpeted covering that is kind of like carpeted, plastic cardboard. It‘s on the back wall of the cab. I used some DAP Weldwood Landau glue and 1/4” plywood cut to the shape, and then some bolts, nuts, and washers to mount the amps. Then that covering and plywood is secured to factory mount points and a couple of other places with rivnuts.

Looking good, buddy! Keep the updates coming!
 

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I haven't seen the door-less mod since the 90's. :eek:

Slap a layer of fiberglass mat on the back of that factory tray. One layer outta stiffen it up to satisfaction. Then some paint and done.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Slap a layer of fiberglass mat on the back of that factory tray. One layer outta stiffen it up to satisfaction. Then some paint and done.
I think I have enough fiberglass mat laying around to cover the back as well. I forget exactly what kind, but it's fairly thick mat. Just need resin. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
This car can be maddening at times.... since there is no low level signal available (and no MOST interface available either) I have to tap into the factory amp for a speaker level signal to feed into the DSP. Since I am trying to avoid cutting into factory wiring, a few weeks ago I ordered this adapter Connects2 CT10VL05 Parrot SOT T-Harness Adaptor ISO Wiring Lead VOLVO | eBay

Now, of the 7 plugs shown I only actually needed one of them. The green one all the way to the left plugs into the output on the amp, so I cut the others off and yesterday decided to try a quick test to make sure it would work. Unplugged the factory green connector from the amp, plugged that one in and twisted the wires onto a speaker I have. Works perfectly. Great. Since I only needed 4 wires I decided to try and remove the other 12 wires giving me a slimmed down connector to work with. Removing the wires was a headache, but I ended up removing about half of them before saying screw it.

Went back to the car, exact same test as yesterday only now a few less wires on the connector and it's no longer working. Took it out and made sure it was plugged in fully, nothing. Essentially the head unit loads the navigation screen but is completely unresponsive. Plugging the factory connector back into the amp and it works fine.



What I can't figure out is why this worked yesterday and not today with the only difference being that I removed some wires (that did not actually go further than about 4"). I added a couple of the wires back in so that for every pin that is used on the factory plug (it only uses 11 of the 16) that I had something back on my aftermarket plug. Still nothing. Weird. Now I am trying to decide do I want to cut the factory wiring or not, I plan to keep the car a long time, so on that side cutting into 4 wires is not a big deal, I can strip the factory tape back and pull enough slack that I can either solder or crimp on some connections and have plenty of tesa tape to wrap everything up again. But, on the flip side it would be nice to have had this adapter ready to go with enough wire to reach the trunk, (factory amp is mounted under the passenger seat) that all I needed to do was take it to the car and plug it in, then if I ever sold the car or wanted to revert to stock it's a plug and play to put things back.
 

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I would want to know why before I go cutting wires.
 

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For 34 bucks I would. Shoot I'd probably take one pin out at a time with the new one until it quit working or stayed working just so I would know.

Messed up a harness for my Maxima and I'm ordering another at $60. Just not worth cutting factory wires to me. Seems like a hack job, metaphorically speaking.

I was in the same boat. Had four connectors and I only needed two. I accidentally broke a needed connector.

What gave you a hard time pulling the pins? A good trick is to use a twist with the paper burnt off to hit the release tabs on small pins.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm with you on the hack job, that's why I liked the idea of making a nice harness outside the car and just plugging it in. If I buy a new harness, I'll likely just leave all the pins in there this time and tape it up.

The pins were just refusing to budge, a couple came out fairly easily, others not so much. I have a depin tool I was using as well as various picks.

If I have time this weekend I'm going to use 2 of the wires I removed and connect those individually to the amp output pins, then use a DMM to see if it's still getting a signal. If it is and the head units functioning correctly, I may try using the plug I already have and see if a pin is loose or something. Failing that, I'll just order the new one and be done. At least it's really the last thing I'll need, have to mount everything in the trunk and install speakers before I need this piece. Was just hopeful to get that and the last wiring from the console into the trunk this weekend.
 
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