DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 41 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
687 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Been a while. I last posted some iterations of my previous car (2004 Acura TSX) which included a lot of fabrication. Now, new car and less time and patience for fabrication, so planning to use factory speaker locations for the most part, and stock HU to retain infotainment functionality.

This will probably be a slow build since I don't have a lot of time. Plans are below:

HU: stock (non-Bose system)
Processing: RF 360.3 (carry-over from previous car)
Tweet amp: Zapco ST-2X
Mid and Midbass amp: Infinity Kappa Four
Sub amp: Infinity Kappa One
(amps replace my old Boston Acoustics GT's, which I would have kept except I want amps to fit under the front seats)

Tweets: Dayton ND20FB-4
Mids: Scan 10F
Midbass: Scan Discovery 7"
Sub: Boston Acoustics G3 10"
(all speakers are carried over from previous car)

As it turns out (pictures later), the mids and tweets are as close to a perfect fit for the stock dash location as I could get. Hopefully I am as lucky with the door locations for midbass.

The only fabrication I can see doing is mounting area for amps under front seats, fiberglass/MDF box for the sub in a corner of the trunk (to minimize space used and retain access to spare tire), and probably mounting adapters for the midbass.

Soundproofing is desperately needed in this car. I am trying to keep weight to a minimum so will try to isolate the offending area(s). The main problem is road noise, and it seems to be from the front of the vehicle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
687 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
New car pic (it's 1 week old now...)



My co-pilot



Transducers



Transducer movers (minus Zapco amp (don't have yet)). Note the 2 Infinity amps are about the same area as one of the BA GT amps. Love those BA amps though...



Here is where I got lucky - speaker fitment in dash





Note the stock tweeter actually mounts to the grille portion, not the dash. And the hole in the dash for the tweeter is not round. There are several open places in the corners of the dash I need to cover up to avoid rear wave cancellation from the midrange.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
450 Posts
good choice on the non bose version. I was debating between the mazda 3 and the impreza last year but ultimately decided on the impreza because the leather version of the mazda only came with bose and bypassing that looked like a nightmare. Progress looks good so far. Keep the pictures coming!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
687 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Pretty much all the parts are in now. Updated plans below...

Signal path:

Stock infotainment -> RF 360.3
Zapco ST-2X -> Dayton ND20FB-4 in stock dash location @ 4kHz-up, with protective capacitor in line with the tweets
Infinity Kappa Four -> Scan 10F in stock dash location @ 300Hz-4KHz
Infinity Kappa Four -> Image Dynamics OEM 6.5 in front doors @ 70Hz-300Hz
(decided on ID, if they will fit, over Scan Discovery since they have better midbass capability)
Infinity Kappa One -> BA G310 in 1.2 cube ported @ 70Hz-down

I'll spend some time initially on soundproofing. The tires are a major source of road noise. I've got 1/8" MLV and 1/8" CCF along with leftover carpet padding to take care of that. Will also do some door treatment (Hushmat here and there and deflective foam or other material right behind the midbass). The stock dash speaker locations are great, but the surface is very irregular, with many openings (some of which the grille uses for attachment to the dash, and for the stock tweeter which actually mounts to the grille). I need to get those closed up to avoid cancellation from the midrange.

I bought some Seaboard to use for the midbass speaker mounts in the doors as it will be impervious to moisture and have butyl rope and a bunch Thomas and Betts duct seal handy where needed.

I'm torn between using a 2nd set of midbass in the rear doors to smooth out the midbass response as it's sure to be irregular from the front doors and have cancellation issues from the center console, versus removing the rear door speakers and covering the openings with Seaboard to further reduce road noise.

I'll make mini amp racks under the front seats. Kappa One and RF 360.3 under one seat and Kappa Four and Zapco ST-2X under the other. This should work nicely with the dimensions available under the seats.

Under the hood, the battery has a handy spare fused outlet/connector. It's only got a 30A fuse so I'll replace with a larger value.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Nice choice in car. I'm considering one of these now. I like that there is a decent amount of space in the dash for speakers. How does it sound with the Scans up there?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
687 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Really like the way it drives. Reminds me of my '04 TSX but even tighter.
Rear legroom is generous. More room than my TSX for my 3 (turning 4) yr old son to stretch out his legs in his child seat.

I made some good progress on sound deadening...more on that later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
687 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Ok folks, I have done some work on my 2016 passenger's front side and had some revelations along the way.





The above pics are of the B pillar. There are two large openings into the pillar; one mid-pillar which just has wiring coming out from the rear door, and one at the bottom which partially houses the seat belt assembly. There is some foam at the very bottom of the seat belt opening but aside from that, no sound deadening of any kind.

Pulling out the trim and lifting up the carpet, I find this:



On closer inspection, it is a thick piece of styrofoam, held in by a plastic screw. It is probably over 2" thick in some places. Aside from lessening legroom, it also resonates loudly when tapped on. Behind this piece, further up in the firewall and part of the wheel well is some cheap packed fabric material. Interestingly, the rectangle that is not covered by asphalt(?) deadener has inscribed the vehicle's VIN, and equally as interesting is there is a plastic piece stuck into the carpet (under floor mat) which when removed exposes the VIN below. Unfortunately, this area of the metal is very tinny sounding, so I applied a good amount of Hushmat.



Unfortunately, the underside plastic piece of one of the "buttons" that holds the floor mat in place on the carpet comes in direct contact with the plastic ducting that goes under the front seats. If this is the same on the drivers' side, it (and perhaps the cheap-o cardboard carpet) may explain why I feel the grooves it the road.



So...I glued some carpet on top of the plastic duct to isolate it from the "button".

I removed the large styrofoam insert and cut some spare home carpet pad I had laying around to fill the space immediately forward of the front seat beam to the firewall under the dash (I doubled up the pad in the area where the styrofoam was).
On top of that, I placed 1/8" MLV, then the factory carpet.

I also covered up the open areas of the B pillar as much as possible with closed cell foam and Hushmat, but not coming in contact with the seat belt mechanism.

Still need to put some vertical MLV around the kickpanel area. I hope these steps will help reduce the road noise; I'll repeat on the driver's side.

BTW the wiring harness that is attached under the passenger seat is interesting. First, unbolt the seat then tilt it back to access the metal "arm" that the harness attaches to, and slide off the harness. In the back of the harness are 3 mini harnesses that can be slid off by using a tiny straight screwdriver in their latch mechanisms.



I didn't take any pics of the carpet pad I added, but it's in there, under the MLV.

With the factory carpet and floor mat on top of everything, it now has a soft/cushy feel when stepped on and the carpet was able to fit back on reasonably well. I may need to do some tweaking to get the kickpanel trim piece in once I add MLV there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
687 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Next I worked on the driver's side. Pretty much a similar deal as the passenger's side - styrofoam "deadener" against the firewall/wheel well. The styrofoam also supports the "dead pedal" which was a bit of a shocker to me as my old Acura actually has a sturdy steel mount under the rubber dead pedal which bolts to the chassis in 3 places. I tripled up the carpet pad in the area of the "dead" pedal in place of the styrofoam, and a layer of MLV above all.

I also found a "bare" spot on the firewall just left of where the steering wheel rod goes thru. Turns out it exits near the edge of deadening material on the engine side of the firewall, close to the wheel well - and is not close to any wires or hoses. So I drilled a hole and ran 4-ga power wire thru that spot and put a grommet in. I cut, test fit and upholstered the "amp boards" for under the front seats.

I forgot to mention I had also bought a set of external torx sockets to remove the front seat bolts - and they were screwed on super tight. Ridiculous that the torx sockets cost $40 but they're really needed to avoid stripping the bolt heads.

Next I'll finish the deadening and wiring for my amps and DSP and put the front seats back in. That's 9 runs of speaker wire, 4 runs of RCA wire, and power/ground for 3 amps and DSP.

I'll tackle the front doors another day - they should be a relatively small project compared to the front floor.











 

·
Registered
Joined
·
687 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I put the carpet and trim pieces back in.
I need to work on the driver's side kick panel still since the fuse door is a bit tricky to apply sound deadening. I may remove the fuse panel and deaden behind it.

I took a long test drive on the highway last night. There is notably less road noise, though coarse pavement still causes vibration in the car's frame and road noise. However, I was able to carry on a conversation with my 4-year-old in the back seat when on the pavement highway - something that was difficult to do in the past. Now I am hearing some wind noise from the driver's side door which I guess the road noise had been masking. There is also high frequency road noise that sounds like it's coming from the upper dash - that may be partly because I removed the midrange speaker "plates" and tweeters from the dash. I'll tape some foam and MLV over top of the dash grilles as an experiment. There is some type of deadener material in the engine bay, below the windshield wipers. I wouldn't be surprised if noise is entering the cabin there.

So far, a good improvement in road noise but still not as quiet as my 2004 TSX on rough road surfaces. I don't hear a lot of noise from the rear of the 6, so I am on the fence about treating that part of the car. I will be treating the front doors for aftermarket midbass installation. As another poster mentioned, simply replacing the OEM tires should provide further improvements in road noise...I'll have to wait until the Dunlops wear out.


MLV/CCF sandwich:








Putting trim and carpet back in. Everything fit without much fuss. The raised carpet made it a little difficult to put the round carpet clips back in though.
I needed to cut some carpet pad and MLV around where the gas pedal mounts to the floor, for a secure mount.





Now that I think about the seatbelt opening in the B-pillar and the openings in the kickpanel metal for CPU (passenger side) and fuse box (driver side), I may remove them and build an MLV "cup" behind them to block noise better.
For another day...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
687 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Update:

Putting MLV over the dash speaker grilles cut down on that high frequency road noise mentioned above...so it is getting inside the dash. Another thing to tackle...I will see if I can remove the flimsy/uneven speaker mounting locations in the corners of the dash and replace them with proper baffles and acoustic grille cloth.

At this point the sound treatment is almost enough to where the noise level is acceptable, and all signal and power wires have been run.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
107 Posts
Update:

Putting MLV over the dash speaker grilles cut down on that high frequency road noise mentioned above...so it is getting inside the dash. Another thing to tackle...I will see if I can remove the flimsy/uneven speaker mounting locations in the corners of the dash and replace them with proper baffles and acoustic grille cloth.

At this point the sound treatment is almost enough to where the noise level is acceptable, and all signal and power wires have been run.
Any more updates to this build?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
687 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Some updates, though progress is slow.

I treated the doors with some Dynamat Extreme and closed cell foam blocks inside the door. This helped cut the upper bass boominess. I also fabricated mounts from HDPE and birch for Dayton RS 8" midbasses in the front doors. They BARELY fit. Though they modeled well in WinISD in a large sealed enclosure, I wasn't impressed with their performance in the doors. The stock 4 6-1/2" mids are actually punchier in the midbass and much more efficient than the pair of Dayton 8's. The Dayton's do dig lower but I'll be using a dedicated sub so not important. For now, I've left the stock mids in the doors and am seriously considering keeping them for midbass duty (if they can handle more power). Having midbass in both front and rear doors intrigues me as I might be able to get by with smaller drivers without them rattling the heck out of the doors and acting as an array to smooth out frequency response anomalies that door mounted midbass are infamous for.

The amps and 360.3 are wired up and in place under the front seats. 3 amps, processor, and power distribution = a tight fit.

I am planning a different approach for the sub after checking available volume in the rear driver's side of the trunk. Removing the plastic storage cubby in the floor should get me around 1 cuft gross volume and after hearing an SI MKIV 12" in 0.6 cubes net sealed, I'm planning on using that driver or something similar for that space.

I'll post up some more pics later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
687 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I ended up going with Dynaudio MW172's instead of the Dayton RS8's. The Stereo Integrity sub was hard to find without jacked up price, so I bought an Infinity Kappa 120.9W.

Baffles for the midbass are finished.





The sub should work well in around 1cuft net. I just need to wait until the weather warms up to start glassing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
687 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
The MW172's are in. Still running off stock HU power for now.
The Dyns have more pronounced midrange than the stock door speakers and better low end extension, while not so bad of an upper bass peak. They work well with the 10F's in the dash and are much better suited for this application than the Dayton RS225s though they model similarly in WinISD. Running tweeterless still, but with many songs you'd never know it.





Next tasks:
- route stock HU signal to 360.3
- add Dayton tweets in dash
- sound deadening/damping in dash speaker areas
- sound deaden wheel wells in trunk and maybe trunk floor
- sub enclosure for the Infinity 120.9W - sealed box 1cuft net molded behind rear wheel well
- 360.3 control knob installation
- tweaking!
 
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Top