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Discussion Starter #1
I've been lurking here for weeks planning out my build. The information here has been very helpful for selecting components. Since I now have everything, I figured I'd share the build out with the board.

To say I'm excited would be an understatement. I've had numerous "systems" in the past, but this is my first full build out in a few years. This may be my last also, so I want to do it right. I love the truck and plan to keep it for the foreseeable future. Now I want the stereo to give me goose bumps whenever I drive it. Hopefully I've selected the right assortment of components to accomplish that task.

Factory 8.4 Uconnect without Alpine 
JL Audio Fix 82 (OEM Integration)
JL Audio Twk D8 (DSP)
Hertz MLK 165.3 Mille Legend's (Front Components)
Hertz MPX 165.3 Mille PRO's (Rear Coaxial)
Alpine R-Series R-W12D4 (Subwoofer)
Rockford Fosgate Power T400X4ad (Front and Rear Speakers)
Rockford Fosgate Power T750/1bd (Subwoofer)
Fox Acousics Single 12 (Vented) Enclosure

I purchased a bulk pack of Dynamat, Stinger FAST Rings, a JL Audio FiX-LSA-4 (in case it's needed), a Rockford 1/0 amp kit, 6x9 to 6.5 brackets, and will be using mostly EFX interconnects.

The amps, Mille crossovers, Fix 82 and Twk D8 will be mounted on a rack behind the rear seat. I'm modifying the rear seat to fold forward. I'll probably display the ditribution/fuse block also.

Again, since I'm getting older, who knows if I'll do this again. I just hope it delivers. I've coveted the Mille Legends for years, so my expectations are through the roof. If the passive setup isn't what I need it to be, I'll purchase the T/4002 and go active. I'd rather not have to go active though.

Thoughts? 😁
 

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It’s sounds like you are going to power each set of speakers off single channels of your T400X4, so each door would be powered by one channel. If you are dead set on using passive crossovers (which I see nothing wrong with) than you should at least bi-amp your 3-way sets in the front. And it’s my opinion you should throw a ton of power at them. Passive crossovers are inefficient and you lose considerable power using them.

You can always “temporarily” install things and see how you like it. Speakers and everything but the amps and crossovers will remain so you won’t be ripping the entire build apart or anything) I can almost guarantee the biggest gain you are going to get is by either going active, or increasing channels/power from your amps. Either way you’ll need another amp (T400X4 or whatever) or a different 6/8 channel amp to properly bi-amp and send sufficient power to those Milles.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
It’s sounds like you are going to power each set of speakers off single channels of your T400X4, so each door would be powered by one channel. If you are dead set on using passive crossovers (which I see nothing wrong with) than you should at least bi-amp your 3-way sets in the front. And it’s my opinion you should throw a ton of power at them....

Thanks for the reply and recommendation. I have the Mille Legend MLK 165.3. It's not the three way...just the woofer and tweeter (I only wish I owned the 1650.3!).

That being the case, do you still feel as strongly that an active crossover is needed? I agree 100% that active would be needed with the 1650.3...or at least strongly desired.

I don't mind bi-amping and running the front stage on its own amp, but would not want to incur the added expense unless it was absolutely necessary. You make an excellent point that using a four channel for the front stage would be best (one channel per woofer and tweeter). I'd buy and use the T400/2 on the rear doors.

With the current setup, I'd run one channel of the T400/4 to each "door". The amp bench tested at about 120 watts per channel at 4 ohms. The 165.5 set has an RMS rating of 150 watts. I'm close, but I know the Mille's like power, so they'd be fine with more.

I believe I'm okay using the FiX 82 and TwK D8 either passive or active. The TwK has an optical input from the FiX and up to 8 analog outputs. Adding the second 2-channel for an active setup wouldn't cause any DSP related issues...that I can see.

Even though the truck is a daily driver, I'm trying to out-do anything I've had in the past, and I desire for it to sound very impressive when complete. That being said, I have no plans of competing in any SQ or SPL competitions...this is purely for my daily enjoyment.

Thanks again for the feedback. What are your thoughts, taking the above update into account?

Edit to add: If I was to bi-amp the front and rear doors, what combo of amps would you recommend, assuming that the existing 400/4 would be one of the two amps? They're all basically the same price, so it just comes down to which amp (number of channels) would be best.

I only assume it would make sense to put the 4 channel on the front and the 2 channel on the rear doors.

Thanks again!!
 

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Are you mounting the amps on the back wall and running all new wire to each speaker position? When I was running passives the installer put them on the back wall and ran everything back there. It made it much easier to troubleshoot things and eventually switch to an active system.

I'd also recommend leaving yourself a foot or two of slack on the cables so you can move things around after a month or so if you decide to change a few things. That way you're not having to run new wires because you decided to change up how your amps are configured. You can always clean it up later once you're happy with everything.
 

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I also have 16 Ram cc and a set of mlk2 waiting for install. I couldn’t get the UConnect to send signal even with 47ohm resisters as others have used with success. I have heard that it only checks load during startup. I have the components to put a 8 ohm load with a timer. I just haven’t found the time to play with it. Please update with progress.


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I also have 16 Ram cc and a set of mlk2 waiting for install. I couldn’t get the UConnect to send signal even with 47ohm resisters as others have used with success. I have heard that it only checks load during startup. I have the components to put a 8 ohm load with a timer. I just haven’t found the time to play with it. Please update with progress.


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If you use 100ohm resistors across the speaker lines, you will be golden. I have done it several times.

Always in for a RAM build.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I also have 16 Ram cc and a set of mlk2 waiting for install. I couldn’t get the UConnect to send signal even with 47ohm resisters as others have used with success. I have heard that it only checks load during startup. I have the components to put a 8 ohm load with a timer. I just haven’t found the time to play with it. Please update with progress.


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Will do. I talked to JL, and they said it's almost impossible to know if a specific Chrysler HU has load sensing prior to testing. That's why I went ahead and purchased the JL Fix-LSA-4...I'll have it if I need it. I'm not sure if the LSA-4 can be used "stand alone" without one of the FiX OEM Integration DSP's or not. If so, it may be what you need. As stated above, going with the larger resistor will most likely accomplish the same thing.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Are you mounting the amps on the back wall and running all new wire to each speaker position? When I was running passives the installer put them on the back wall and ran everything back there. It made it much easier to troubleshoot things and eventually switch to an active system.

I'd also recommend leaving yourself a foot or two of slack on the cables so you can move things around after a month or so if you decide to change a few things. That way you're not having to run new wires because you decided to change up how your amps are configured. You can always clean it up later once you're happy with everything.
Everything is being mounted on a rack behind the rear seat. Easy access and will allow me to show the magic "behind the curtain". I'll definitely leave some slack for future additions.

Also, yes, I'm running wires straight from the amps to the crossover and new wires to each individual speaker. All "extra" wire will be hidden behind the amp rack so leaving slack is no problem. Great recommendation!

Thanks!
 

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If you use 100ohm resistors across the speaker lines, you will be golden. I have done it several times.



Always in for a RAM build.


Thanks, I’m limited on time due to kids. I didn’t want to waste time trying to find the perfect resistor for my radio so I figured 8 ohms should definitely work. But with such a low resistance I can’t keep it connected constantly. So I figured I’ll add a timer and micro relays. My only concern is introducing noise to the signal.


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Discussion Starter #11
What do you think guys? Anyone with experience with this component set? Looking for feedback on running them passive using the front channels of the T400/4. In for a dime, in for a dollar. If I need to purchase the 2 channel I will. I'll need professional help to tune an active set up though.
 

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I used a set of older Millie's in my 2011 Ram and man they loved power I had 300 wrms available just for the woofers. I ran mine active as well so my suggestion is to do that if you want that eye opening holy crap moment.
Now staying with the passives I would absolutely make sure you have extra power on tap so when you tune you won't be wanting more. I'm a big believer that more is always better lol.
 

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I absolutely promise that you will not be disappointed with giving yourself extra power, side from the extra work of putting an extra amp in. I would put as much power as you can afford/fit in your car. Do it right the first time and you shouldnt have to pull crap back out and it should put a smile on your face every time you get in your car.
From experience, I nickel-dick equipment and/or labor/effort on install and I regret it until I fix it, which half the time I don’t even do. So you spend all this money on nice equipment and are not as happy with the results as you’d like to be.
Also, if you are going to run the passive crossovers with your JL DSP, they will help you from making a lot of mistakes on your first time tuning an active system. They will allow for some error in your tune/power settings. JL has different levels of tuning with their “TUN” software, starting with a quick basic setup tune that takes less than 10 minutes, all the way up to advanced/expert which would require more experience and know-how.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I absolutely promise that you will not be disappointed with giving yourself extra power, side from the extra work of putting an extra amp in. I would put as much power as you can afford/fit in your car. Do it right the first time and you shouldnt have to pull crap back out and it should put a smile on your face every time you get in your car.
From experience, I nickel-dick equipment and/or labor/effort on install and I regret it until I fix it, which half the time I don’t even do. So you spend all this money on nice equipment and are not as happy with the results as you’d like to be.
Also, if you are going to run the passive crossovers with your JL DSP, they will help you from making a lot of mistakes on your first time tuning an active system. They will allow for some error in your tune/power settings. JL has different levels of tuning with their “TUN” software, starting with a quick basic setup tune that takes less than 10 minutes, all the way up to advanced/expert which would require more experience and know-how.
Thanks guys! Looks like I'll try to go active, as suggested. That being the case, assuming I keep the T/400/4, should I purchase the 2 channel T/400/2, or another 4 channel?

I "assume" I'll run the two channel amp to the front woofers (more power to the woofers), two channels from the 4 channel to the the front tweeters, and the othe 2
Channels from the 4 channel to the rear coaxial PRO's?

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It's difficult to describe the quality of the sound from the Mille Legends...just simply amazing!

The TwK D8 is the nicest DSP I've ever owned. In previous vehicles, I've had three top of the line Audio Control DSP's. They were all analog, and of course the TwK is digital. Whole different ball game when it comes to ease of tuning.

As you can see, I did the rear seat modification. Just FYI, the mod works perfectly with 5/8th inch spacers and cutting 1/2 an inch from the four hooks. It functions as if it came this way from the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
More pics of install...the LED is nice as long as it's not aimed directly in the cabin. I aimed it down in a pcoket.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I couldn't be happier. I've owned nice systems in the past, but none of them measured up to the Legends. I used Alpine Type X in the previous build, with PDX amps. They weren't close to the Hertz, IMO. I love driving again...and with every some available at the top of my finger, I'll be looking for any excuse to drive somewhere.

Also...these Rockford amps are wonderful. They do their jobs without any issues. Very clean and powerful.
 
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