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Discussion Starter · #321 ·
use a OpenDrc
It’s toslink/coax in and out and capable of 6144 taps
And it’s FFT convolution! And it’s floating point! And you can run at 96K

No pc needed !
Hmm maybe as a winter project i will look into this stuff in more detail! Always willing to keep pushing forward 🤓
 
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There is a saying that you can take the girl away from the farm but you can not take the farm out of the girl and i guess it is true!! Growing up on the farm and doing everything i could including working on equipment with my dad has rubbed off i guess, lol!
You sound like my wife who also grew up on a farm... We play well off each other, I rely on her for common sense and she relies on me for technical stuff!
 

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Hmm maybe as a winter project i will look into this stuff in more detail! Always willing to keep pushing forward 🤓
yeah you’ve come a long way really really fast
your measurement rig speaks volumes, I really do think you would have fun with it.

and you have all the right tools to measure things properly and make a good sounding correction.

it’s right up your alley
 

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Okay, I am now playing with the proper version of the rack. All amplifiers have been accrued.

Brax 2400 - Left side of car mid and tweet. I am going to run the left sub on DVC using two separate channels at 2 ohms each.
Brax 2400 - Right side of car mid and tweet. I am going to run the right sub on DVC using two separate channels at 2 ohms each.
Helix C-four - rear fill and perhaps a future center channel just to play nothing more or something else TBD
Helix C-One - rear sub ( TBD) for 15-30 Hz duties :)

Helix Ultra on the main shelf layer under the helix amps. I am going to build a tilting top shelf .

Power distribution and grounds are on the main base later as well under the 2nd helix.

I am also planning some fans , just have to figure out what i want.

I will have some sort of custom beauty panel which is in the works concept wise.

the amps will not overlap as the floating amp rack will be extended about 2 inches so there is no overlap. The pic just shows a mock-up of that i am thinking.. I really like the floating amp rack above the rear tire area. It has worked wonderfully this last year. So i am keeping the basic concept.

Left the fun begin hopefully this weekend !!


View attachment 341513
Hello,

Do you know how much amperage drawn in medium to loud volume of one of your GX2400?
 

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That depends on what driver they are running and program material, tweeters will be different to midbass for example, on medium volume I’d expect less than 60A with normal music, so maybe 20a each I’d guess
Thank you. I just want to know roughly estimate, since she is running one GX2400 for high, mid, and midbass. The number should be very close to mine. I changed my set up from running 3 Mosconi 2/10 for high, mid, and midbass to one GX2400 for high and mid. One GX2000 for midbass. Just found out the idea current of GX2400 is 3.5A last week, it is very high compare to Mosconi 2/10 and I just worry that if my electric car can take it.
 

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Thank you. I just want to know roughly estimate, since she is running one GX2400 for high, mid, and midbass. The number should be very close to mine. I changed my set up from running 3 Mosconi 2/10 for high, mid, and midbass to one GX2400 for high and mid. One GX2000 for midbass. Just found out the idea current of GX2400 is 3.5A last week, it is very high compare to Mosconi 2/10 and I just worry that if my electric car can take it.
I’d be using something like a helix p6dsp ultimate if I had an electric car, class d isn’t the devil and it does sound excellent with modern amp tech and design… I wouldn’t even entertain class ab in an electric car

but to give you an idea I run a mosconi amp setup… AS200.2 on subs at 2ohm bridged, plus a pair of pro 4/10, I can play most music off a 20a power supply at medium volumes and get no voltage drop… if I up the volume and get enthusiastic I can get voltage drop at my battery and draw more than 20a… but 20a is great for most music
 

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Thank you. Yes, I found out those idle number last week and just worry if my EV can take it. Thanks god I didn't pull the trigger on MX4.
A few friends of mine run 2 x MX4 from more or less original electrical system (original alternators/big three/and a bit more capable battery)without any issues in their SQ systems
 

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I’d be using something like a helix p6dsp ultimate if I had an electric car, class d isn’t the devil and it does sound excellent with modern amp tech and design… I wouldn’t even entertain class ab in an electric car

but to give you an idea I run a mosconi amp setup… AS200.2 on subs at 2ohm bridged, plus a pair of pro 4/10, I can play most music off a 20a power supply at medium volumes and get no voltage drop… if I up the volume and get enthusiastic I can get voltage drop at my battery and draw more than 20a… but 20a is great for most music
Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #333 · (Edited)
I have not measured this system yet, however i would add that although it may seem i am running a 3-way with mid-bass i am more or less running a 2 way with door subs that go down to mid 35hz range so that changes the calculus.

The Brax line is a significant step above Class D amps in SQ so depending what your priories are, that drives things. The GX 2400 is a high bias class AB design so the idle current is higher for sure and the MX is biased even higher, In an electric car i have not spent any time on the math of what percentage of battery would be consumed by a Brax amp install compared to the car capacity and range reduction. In a commuter car it may not matter as the trips are short and the car sits charging most of the time, but in a car used for highway driving it may really matter i do not know.

I do think the type of music you listen to will be a determining factor. If you listen to acoustic music, and music with real instruments the current draw will be far less than EDM, techno, electronic and other tech synth music with exaggerated low end which will drive up the current a lot. That being said a reasonable compromise is class AB for the front stage, cross the MB at 80hz or a little higher and run the sub stage at class D where the bulk of the current draw is anyhow. If i had an electric and i was going to do a serious SQ build i would entertain this option highly. The electric for me would be a commuter car only. To use an electric to drive outside of the city where i live , while it can be done is highly impractical due to distances and total lack of infrastructure and the seriously cold temps in the winter.
 

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I thought i would post an unlikely improvement i installed for my enjoyment of music in my car. The Venza seemed really susceptible to wind noise through the front of the side windows. I tried everything. The doors are fully deadend and sealed, I installed extra weather stripping around the door edges. This past week I tried something different and I installed wind deflectors on all my windows. The benefit has been wonderfully positive and the side wind window ingress noise has been significantly reduced and basically eliminated. What was driving me nuts for over a year has been fixed once and for all. Maybe other cars have similar issues and this may help out. To say I am super impressed with the results would be an understatement 😀

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Wind deflectors is a hack I learned years ago to cut way down on highway wind noise. I've added these to every vehicle I've owned since and it always makes a significant difference.
 

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Okay, I am now playing with the proper version of the rack. All amplifiers have been accrued.

Brax 2400 - Left side of car mid and tweet. I am going to run the left sub on DVC using two separate channels at 2 ohms each.
Brax 2400 - Right side of car mid and tweet. I am going to run the right sub on DVC using two separate channels at 2 ohms each.
Helix C-four - rear fill and perhaps a future center channel just to play nothing more or something else TBD
Helix C-One - rear sub ( TBD) for 15-30 Hz duties :)

Helix Ultra on the main shelf layer under the helix amps. I am going to build a tilting top shelf .

Power distribution and grounds are on the main base later as well under the 2nd helix.

I am also planning some fans , just have to figure out what i want.

I will have some sort of custom beauty panel which is in the works concept wise.

the amps will not overlap as the floating amp rack will be extended about 2 inches so there is no overlap. The pic just shows a mock-up of that i am thinking.. I really like the floating amp rack above the rear tire area. It has worked wonderfully this last year. So i am keeping the basic concept.

Left the fun begin hopefully this weekend !!


View attachment 341513
If I won the lottery, I wouldn't tell anyone, but there would be signs... 😂

Amazing build log AudioGal! Thank you for allowing us to live vicariously through you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #336 ·
Wind deflectors is a hack I learned years ago to cut way down on highway wind noise. I've added these to every vehicle I've owned since and it always makes a significant difference.
lol i cannot believe it took me so long to try wind deflectors out, tbh, however i am glad i did thats for sure :)
 
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I have not measured this system yet, however i would add that although it may seem i am running a 3-way with mid-bass i am more or less running a 2 way with door subs that go down to mid 35hz range so that changes the calculus.

The Brax line is a significant step above Class D amps in SQ so depending what your priories are, that drives things. The GX 2400 is a high bias class AB design so the idle current is higher for sure and the MX is biased even higher, In an electric car i have not spent any time on the math of what percentage of battery would be consumed by a Brax amp install compared to the car capacity and range reduction. In a commuter car it may not matter as the trips are short and the car sits charging most of the time, but in a car used for highway driving it may really matter i do not know.

I do think the type of music you listen to will be a determining factor. If you listen to acoustic music, and music with real instruments the current draw will be far less than EDM, techno, electronic and other tech synth music with exaggerated low end which will drive up the current a lot. That being said a reasonable compromise is class AB for the front stage, cross the MB at 80hz or a little higher and run the sub stage at class D where the bulk of the current draw is anyhow. If i had an electric and i was going to do a serious SQ build i would entertain this option highly. The electric for me would be a commuter car only. To use an electric to drive outside of the city where i live , while it can be done is highly impractical due to distances and total lack of infrastructure and the seriously cold temps in the winter.
Thank you. Yes, I will be running GX2400 and GX2000 for front stage high, mid, and midbass and two Mosconi 1/10 class D for two 12" sub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #338 ·
Thank you. Yes, I will be running GX2400 and GX2000 for front stage high, mid, and midbass and two Mosconi 1/10 class D for two 12" sub.
Very nice!!! The Brax amps are awesome and designed like high-end home audio amps to extract max musical enjoyment. A very worth while upgrade in my system for what i am after, and i hope you get the same level of enjoyment out of them as i do. They are most likely overkill for car audio but who cares, lol!
 

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Discussion Starter · #339 ·
If I won the lottery, I wouldn't tell anyone, but there would be signs... 😂

Amazing build log AudioGal! Thank you for allowing us to live vicariously through you!
lol, thanks :), and ya i am stupid territory now, no doubt about it!!!
 
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