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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2016 WRX Premium with Base HU and Speakers

### Disclaimer... This is my first every sound system DIY attempt ever!! ###

So I hated the weak sauce oem dinky speakers and powerless non HK HU.. some Clarion with a super slow startup speed!

First is getting rid of rattle fest! Sound deadening and dampening. First take the interior apart! Seats, door panels, trunk and floor liners, under the firewall, pillars, rear-middle tail light thingy, etc.. I used a double layering of Soundskins and Dynaliner, then had to reinforce the sound deadeaning around my Gearbox and firewall a bit more..

Power was a 0 gauge from Battery. running behind drivers wheel-well into car by the pedals (there is a rubber grommet there).. I then run all power on the drivers side under the door railings (there is nice gap to run wires and cables) to a distribution block under the passenger seat.
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DSP is connected to the RCAs from the Android Head Unit (Idoing variant) low level out channels 1-2 front and 3-4 rear. (the HU also has a 12 volt out that only turns on when the car key is on on.. so the DSP only comes on when you want it, super easy to connect, then I ran a inline fuse to that power cable) Make sure you run ground cables to all powered parts.. just a cable to the block.. scrape the paint a little..

Head Unit: Idoing Idoing 4+64g android 9 Android Head Unit for 2016 WRX..
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DSP: Mosconi 8 to 12 Aerospace with RCD and Bluetooth adapter (for highend audio)
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AMPS: Mosconi 5/30 Pro (cut an mdf board to allow tire removal and fit amp under the carpet with breathing room) and Mosconi AS.100.4 fits perfectly under the seat and shortens wiring length from dsp and speakers
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Speakers: Front Stage, Dash AudioFrog GB 25, A-Pillar Hertz 280.3 ML, Drivers Door Hertz 1650.3 ML
Real fill: Passenger rear doors Door Hertz 1650.3 ML and rear Sub woofer in enclosed trunk box (removable with ease) 5/30 Pro amp sits under the 10" sub enclosure.. complete hidden and I retained full spare wheel space!
I eliminated the Crossovers to run Active... I used custom rings from "carstereoadapters" from nasoic forums..

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Zero gauge from Battery terminal to a distribution block. then 4 gauge to both amps.
All new speaker wires 12 gauge and 14 gauge. Wires where a combo of Stinger 8000 RCA's and Knuconcepts Speaker wire


There was some removal of speaker grill plastic for the dash speakers, get a good knife and sand paper. AudioFrog GB25 came with hardware ring to accommodate the install (you will have to drill a new hole in the ring to line it up correctly. I also lined the inside of that space with some Soundskins. Apillar holes I made with a knife.. lol got some criticism for that as I guess these speaker are sold with hardware to mount.. yet I got mine here used so I never got the hardware! I actually got everything except the HU here so thanks members who gave me killer deals on your bnib or slightly used equipment, it all works 100% at half or less the price of a new setup!

Setting the input gain lvls on the DSP was super easy (it has a nice clipping light to help out) on the HU I used a (used from here DD+1).. the Idoing HU started clipping @ Volume 26 for channels 1 +2 and Volume 25 for channels 3+4, so at around 85% volume.. Next set lvls on the Amps (5/30 pro is set to DSP input so nothing to do here) AS100.4 I used DD+1 to set amp gain lvls.

Next up is tuning the system. It sounds amazing as it is yet way too loud on highs and no mids.

First step is making sure my input lvls from the HU are flattened in the dsp so tuning can actually take place. I have had several professionals reach out and offer to tune this for me, yet in the whole DIY spirit I think that is kinda lame, please give advice and not just $$$ offers to make a buck! I will be following the very nice tuning guide from AudioFrog "A Straightforward One-Seat Stereo Tuning Process and Some Notes About Why it Works" Using a calibrated mic UMIK-1 along with a usb sound card. I will update with further information once I get my USB sound card from Amazon ;-).. not like I'm suing my car during the stay at home order!!

Any inputs and helpful hints are welcomed (In the DIY spirit, please no offers to tune my system at a cost!! unless you do a zoom lesson I can share with others freely!!)
 

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Those Mosconi pieces are gorgeous man. If you want to re do the a pillars at some point new panels are only $17 bucks each. I was looking into those "carstereoadapters" rings, how'd they work out? Are the fronts angled at all? Love using the SoundSkin stuff really did a great job and super easy to use. I'll follow this along the way, and I'm going be tuning mine some this weekend (I hope).

Sent from my HD1905 using Tapatalk
 

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I don't remember if they where angled or not? Lol yet I did modify mine a little and they did angle after I was done with them :).. material was like a hard plastic so I shaved bits off here and there so it would mount flush on all sides. Yet they came labeled per door etc.. if i had a 3D printer, Id prop. Just scan the door and make a part.. (funny I have the scanner but not the printer).. yeah them Mosconi pieces I got for a steal here from other members. Pretty much half off without tax!
 

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What great timing!!

About to do the same with my 2017 STI!

(Also first time diy system)

How are the tweeters holding on to the pillars?
 

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I mounted them by sticking them on with a strip of Soundskins and some double sided 3M tape ;-).. I have driven pretty hard with these in and they dont move at all!! I will prop get the bracket to mount them properly (yet tiss what you get when buying semi new parts.. some of the do dads will be missing) btw nice car! I made mine a FA20DIT STI in the end!
 

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Got any advice for running new cable through the doors? It looks like a huge pita so I temporarily mounted the tweet on top of the door
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panel...
 

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I used coat hanger wire taped to my 12 guage wires and sprayed them down with vaseline spray. Works like a charm.. just slips ans slides right on through ;-)!!
 

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Nice work!

Going to be swapping out my windows 10 CarPC for an android unit soon, what music player are you using? So far after trying a few, I like Foobars app.

The random feature on several apps would skip between random songs in different folders rather than random songs in the SAME folder. Kind of annoying. But foobar worked well for this purpose. And I was already use to Foobar on PC so it helps. Any suggestions?
 

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Nice work!

Going to be swapping out my windows 10 CarPC for an android unit soon, what music player are you using? So far after trying a few, I like Foobars app.

The random feature on several apps would skip between random songs in different folders rather than random songs in the SAME folder. Kind of annoying. But foobar worked well for this purpose. And I was already use to Foobar on PC so it helps. Any suggestions?
So I have a DSP that allows me to bypass the HU and as a player I used a fiiO player via a highend bluetooth (I can run optical etc.. but I hate more wires) I play Spotify Premium (have to download them). and I can also run Spotify via my HU, yet I loose sound quality that way (My wife can't tell the difference.. lol) I have 4 presets in which I can run different setups, yet each you have to set the input gains etc.. kinda have to tune each individually.
 

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Finally tuned during the staycation of Covid 19 life!! I'm loving my GB10D4 running off the Mosconi 5/30 Pro. For my first everbuild, I think it sounds amazing! Only thing left is remove some small annoying rattles (B pillars, and sunroof and dome light areas). I finally have a system that can downed out my engine noises ;-).
 

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I used coat hanger wire taped to my 12 guage wires and sprayed them down with vaseline spray. Works like a charm.. just slips ans slides right on through ;-)!!
Always late to the party but I saw a dude on the Tube do this an interesting way...I have always gone with a decent single cable taped like hell to the speaker cable and push/pulled through. Mixed results and always language involved! Instead this dude (ExoControlto I think his name is? I personally think he is a bit of a dumbass and if he isn't tweaking then I'm a lesbian, but if you like the guy then all good (y) ) used a very long zip tie. He wrapped the zip tie around the speaker cables to be fed through the car to door grommet and 'zipped' it up on them; then fed the taper end into the grommet. Looked like a good idea so I'll try that next time...maybe will work OK and maybe will help someone...

Peace
 

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Always late to the party but I saw a dude on the Tube do this an interesting way...I have always gone with a decent single cable taped like hell to the speaker cable and push/pulled through. Mixed results and always language involved! Instead this dude (ExoControlto I think his name is? I personally think he is a bit of a dumbass and if he isn't tweaking then I'm a lesbian, but if you like the guy then all good (y) ) used a very long zip tie. He wrapped the zip tie around the speaker cables to be fed through the car to door grommet and 'zipped' it up on them; then fed the taper end into the grommet. Looked like a good idea so I'll try that next time...maybe will work OK and maybe will help someone...

Peace
I used a similar method to route my midbass wires into the doors using the OE wire routing. A bought a roll of this stuff at my local hardware store. Instead of Vaseline spray, I used dish detergent. Took a bit of effort to work it up the rubber conduit, but it worked like a charm.

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I used a similar method to route my midbass wires into the doors using the OE wire routing. A bought a roll of this stuff at my local hardware store. Instead of Vaseline spray, I used dish detergent. Took a bit of effort to work it up the rubber conduit, but it worked like a charm.
Gee that's a bloody good idea as well...as long as you can get the tube in then you should be pretty happy from there...nice thinking mate (y)
 
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