I’ve been lurking over your install and I dig it for sure, simple and to the point. I’ve installed for about 30 years now and everyone of those head units that come out promising to do this and this and that are all gimmicky pieces of sh#t and they never work correctly the way they claim. I can say once you install a name brand headunit with possible Idatalink connection or some sort of interface made to work with your car you will get the sound and interaction you’ve been waiting on this whole time, I’m not telling you anything you don’t already know sorry to drag it out man. I dig it can’t wait to see it done, no more than you do I’m sure
2017 Civic Hatch - Stuff & Things
3
I graduated a few months ago and as such decided I was tired of the Altima so I got a new car. 2017 Civic EX-L Hatch with most of the bells and whistles (just under the touring edition). This build will come to fruition as I accrue the items (and time) needed, however since I got a brand new car I want to do it right the first time. I brutalized my previous cars and don’t want to torment the Honda like them 
As such, Im taking my time with this build.
Here’s the goal; as stated the stuff will come over time but I’m pretty set on the equipment. I hope to get some help tuning and make this car a truly beautiful sounding car:
-Stock head unit. Honda’s new radio is GORGEOUS and I couldn’t justify an aftermarket deck. If the output truly sucks I might try a JL fix, but I don’t think it’ll need it.
- Helix dsp.2 with modified urc.3. The urc.3 has a switch that’ll allow me to switch from the analog input to the digital input which I’ll use when I really want some high res music. But for daily driving to work and stuff the stock head unit with usb to my phone will suffice.
- not set on amps yet. My buddy is an image rep and I want to help him out, but I might end up using the leviathan again since it’s been so good to me. Who knows.
- Stevens Audio sa6-cs. Eric’s new component set in the active config. Mids will go into custom kick panels vented to either the carpet or the body of the car. Tweeters will be moulded into either the pillars or sails, will decide after listening. I’ve been talking to Eric over email and he’s got me super excited to try them out and has been a big help thus far.
- (x2) Stereo Integrity bm mkv’s in a false floor config. Since I’m not commuting to school so often I feel better ditching the spare, so I’ll put the subs, helix, and amps in the false floor. Obviously this means I won’t have a complete install until at least 2018
My goal is to make this the best sounding car I’ve ever listened to. Considering I’ve listened to cars such as Steve’s Mazda and Jason’s Subaru I know I’m setting a very high standard, but it’ll be a nice goal to strive for even if I don’t meet it.
Here’s a few pictures of the car when I got her. I got 20% tint on all the windows and rear windshield but I haven’t taken good pictures of that yet.
![]()
![]()
![]()
I’m super excited about this build Stay tuned!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As such, Im taking my time with this build.Here’s the goal; as stated the stuff will come over time but I’m pretty set on the equipment. I hope to get some help tuning and make this car a truly beautiful sounding car:
-Stock head unit. Honda’s new radio is GORGEOUS and I couldn’t justify an aftermarket deck. If the output truly sucks I might try a JL fix, but I don’t think it’ll need it.
- Helix dsp.2 with modified urc.3. The urc.3 has a switch that’ll allow me to switch from the analog input to the digital input which I’ll use when I really want some high res music. But for daily driving to work and stuff the stock head unit with usb to my phone will suffice.
- not set on amps yet. My buddy is an image rep and I want to help him out, but I might end up using the leviathan again since it’s been so good to me. Who knows.
- Stevens Audio sa6-cs. Eric’s new component set in the active config. Mids will go into custom kick panels vented to either the carpet or the body of the car. Tweeters will be moulded into either the pillars or sails, will decide after listening. I’ve been talking to Eric over email and he’s got me super excited to try them out and has been a big help thus far.
- (x2) Stereo Integrity bm mkv’s in a false floor config. Since I’m not commuting to school so often I feel better ditching the spare, so I’ll put the subs, helix, and amps in the false floor. Obviously this means I won’t have a complete install until at least 2018
My goal is to make this the best sounding car I’ve ever listened to. Considering I’ve listened to cars such as Steve’s Mazda and Jason’s Subaru I know I’m setting a very high standard, but it’ll be a nice goal to strive for even if I don’t meet it.
Here’s a few pictures of the car when I got her. I got 20% tint on all the windows and rear windshield but I haven’t taken good pictures of that yet.
I’m super excited about this build
Stay tuned!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
421 - 440 of 482 Posts
Back from the dead!
Maybe I'm just OCD but I've taken a picture of my odometer at every 7777 landmark (7777, 17777, 27777, 37777, and most recently 47777). To celebrate hitting 50k miles I decided to revisit my car audio and get a nice system going again. I took a break from audio for about a year to clear my mind but the bug has bitten again.
Here's what I have on the way:
JL RD1000/1 and RD400/4
Audiofrog GB60 midbass and GB15 tweeters
Here's what I'm keeping from the old build:
All the wiring, amp rack, sub enclosure, and other misc. hardware
The Stereo Integrity RM-12
The Android head unit (I learned how to deal with some of the quirks and I get a digital coaxial output going into the processor)
Here's what i have for now:
Audiocontrol DM-810. Not what I want long-term but my buddy let me borrow it until I can afford a Minidsp 8x12 for DL. (Yeah, yeah, "why dirac for a 5-channel system?"...why not?)
Pictures to come soon
Maybe I'm just OCD but I've taken a picture of my odometer at every 7777 landmark (7777, 17777, 27777, 37777, and most recently 47777). To celebrate hitting 50k miles I decided to revisit my car audio and get a nice system going again. I took a break from audio for about a year to clear my mind but the bug has bitten again.
Here's what I have on the way:
JL RD1000/1 and RD400/4
Audiofrog GB60 midbass and GB15 tweeters
Here's what I'm keeping from the old build:
All the wiring, amp rack, sub enclosure, and other misc. hardware
The Stereo Integrity RM-12
The Android head unit (I learned how to deal with some of the quirks and I get a digital coaxial output going into the processor)
Here's what i have for now:
Audiocontrol DM-810. Not what I want long-term but my buddy let me borrow it until I can afford a Minidsp 8x12 for DL. (Yeah, yeah, "why dirac for a 5-channel system?"...why not?)
Pictures to come soon
My new stack is starting to take shape. Waiting for the 4 channel amp and tweeters. This weekend I plan on deadening the front doors and running wires into the doors. Still haven’t decided how far I want to go with the doors yet because I really want to show off the grills of the frogs with some totally customized door panels.
![]()
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I decided to take the hard route..fully custom door panels. I’ll make some machined aluminum rings to secure to the door, then secure the Audiofrog ring to that ring; glass the Audiofrog ring to the door panel to make it one unit.
Then the speaker and the custom aluminum ring will sandwich the door panel/ frog ring in place. So I’ll have a fully stable, secure mount to the door and not have any of the back of the panel stealing my audio waves.
I started by drilling out all the plastic rivets and dis-assembling the panels
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
This is gona be fun..
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Then the speaker and the custom aluminum ring will sandwich the door panel/ frog ring in place. So I’ll have a fully stable, secure mount to the door and not have any of the back of the panel stealing my audio waves.
I started by drilling out all the plastic rivets and dis-assembling the panels
This is gona be fun..
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
15
Today I deadened the outer door and made the aluminum rings.
I put 3 sheets of raammat on each outer door skin.
![]()
![]()
![]()
The rings took all day to make but I love how they turned out. I utilized one factory screw to get my center and placement correct.
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
So I’ll have one factory screw plus eleven 1/4-20 bolts/nuts holding the ring in place. Of course I’ll have raammat and ensolite acting as a gasket.
Here’s the part I didn’t explain well yesterday:
After the above ring is bolted and (very) secure, I will bolt the Audiofrog ring to it (see below)
![]()
![]()
![]()
With this finished, I will glass the frog ring to the door panel. All of my body work will be on the door panel and frog ring.
Then when that is wrapped, I will mount the door panel to the door which will place the frog ring exactly where I want it. So that when I secure the speaker, I will have a fully bolted assembly with the front of the speakers entirely visible (except for the frog grill).
If I’m still not making sense you’ll just have to wait until I finish
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I put 3 sheets of raammat on each outer door skin.
The rings took all day to make but I love how they turned out. I utilized one factory screw to get my center and placement correct.
So I’ll have one factory screw plus eleven 1/4-20 bolts/nuts holding the ring in place. Of course I’ll have raammat and ensolite acting as a gasket.
Here’s the part I didn’t explain well yesterday:
After the above ring is bolted and (very) secure, I will bolt the Audiofrog ring to it (see below)
With this finished, I will glass the frog ring to the door panel. All of my body work will be on the door panel and frog ring.
Then when that is wrapped, I will mount the door panel to the door which will place the frog ring exactly where I want it. So that when I secure the speaker, I will have a fully bolted assembly with the front of the speakers entirely visible (except for the frog grill).
If I’m still not making sense you’ll just have to wait until I finish
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
11
Managed to knock out some work tonight after work.
Started by removing all the factory plastic tabs and wrapping the wire in ensolite.
![]()
![]()
Put some sheet metal over the holes.
![]()
(Deadened on the backside with raammat, then places ensolite as a gasket)
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
Secured to the door with some self-tapping screws. I made sure that the window rolls up and down unobstructed before calling it quits so I think it should be fine.
This weekend hopefully I can finish deadening the door and getting the ring mounted. Next on the list is bodyworking some a-pillars for the tweeters and the door panels for the mids.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Started by removing all the factory plastic tabs and wrapping the wire in ensolite.
Put some sheet metal over the holes.
(Deadened on the backside with raammat, then places ensolite as a gasket)
Secured to the door with some self-tapping screws. I made sure that the window rolls up and down unobstructed before calling it quits so I think it should be fine.
This weekend hopefully I can finish deadening the door and getting the ring mounted. Next on the list is bodyworking some a-pillars for the tweeters and the door panels for the mids.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I realize this is a pretty rough concept but I was trying to visualize what I wanted the curves to accomplish on the panels.
![]()
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
421 - 440 of 482 Posts
