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I’ve been lurking over your install and I dig it for sure, simple and to the point. I’ve installed for about 30 years now and everyone of those head units that come out promising to do this and this and that are all gimmicky pieces of sh#t and they never work correctly the way they claim. I can say once you install a name brand headunit with possible Idatalink connection or some sort of interface made to work with your car you will get the sound and interaction you’ve been waiting on this whole time, I’m not telling you anything you don’t already know sorry to drag it out man. I dig it can’t wait to see it done, no more than you do I’m sure
 

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Discussion Starter · #422 ·
Back from the dead!

Maybe I'm just OCD but I've taken a picture of my odometer at every 7777 landmark (7777, 17777, 27777, 37777, and most recently 47777). To celebrate hitting 50k miles I decided to revisit my car audio and get a nice system going again. I took a break from audio for about a year to clear my mind but the bug has bitten again.

Here's what I have on the way:
JL RD1000/1 and RD400/4
Audiofrog GB60 midbass and GB15 tweeters

Here's what I'm keeping from the old build:
All the wiring, amp rack, sub enclosure, and other misc. hardware
The Stereo Integrity RM-12
The Android head unit (I learned how to deal with some of the quirks and I get a digital coaxial output going into the processor)

Here's what i have for now:
Audiocontrol DM-810. Not what I want long-term but my buddy let me borrow it until I can afford a Minidsp 8x12 for DL. (Yeah, yeah, "why dirac for a 5-channel system?"...why not?)

Pictures to come soon :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #425 ·
My new stack is starting to take shape. Waiting for the 4 channel amp and tweeters. This weekend I plan on deadening the front doors and running wires into the doors. Still haven’t decided how far I want to go with the doors yet because I really want to show off the grills of the frogs with some totally customized door panels.




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Discussion Starter · #426 ·
I decided to take the hard route..fully custom door panels. I’ll make some machined aluminum rings to secure to the door, then secure the Audiofrog ring to that ring; glass the Audiofrog ring to the door panel to make it one unit.

Then the speaker and the custom aluminum ring will sandwich the door panel/ frog ring in place. So I’ll have a fully stable, secure mount to the door and not have any of the back of the panel stealing my audio waves.

I started by drilling out all the plastic rivets and dis-assembling the panels












This is gona be fun..


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Discussion Starter · #427 ·
Today I deadened the outer door and made the aluminum rings.

I put 3 sheets of raammat on each outer door skin.






The rings took all day to make but I love how they turned out. I utilized one factory screw to get my center and placement correct.












So I’ll have one factory screw plus eleven 1/4-20 bolts/nuts holding the ring in place. Of course I’ll have raammat and ensolite acting as a gasket.

Here’s the part I didn’t explain well yesterday:

After the above ring is bolted and (very) secure, I will bolt the Audiofrog ring to it (see below)




With this finished, I will glass the frog ring to the door panel. All of my body work will be on the door panel and frog ring.

Then when that is wrapped, I will mount the door panel to the door which will place the frog ring exactly where I want it. So that when I secure the speaker, I will have a fully bolted assembly with the front of the speakers entirely visible (except for the frog grill).


If I’m still not making sense you’ll just have to wait until I finish


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What was the trick to getting the Joying working for you ? I'm really interested in this head unit for the SPDIF, carplay, and potentially streaming directly from a SIM card. One thing I don't need is integration into factory functions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #430 ·
What was the trick to getting the Joying working for you ? I'm really interested in this head unit for the SPDIF, carplay, and potentially streaming directly from a SIM card. One thing I don't need is integration into factory functions.
The main problem is just learning to deal with the little things: tire gauge sensor doesn't work, maintenance reminder is like 15k miles overdue because I have to reset it on the factory radio, there's a lag on the right-turn signal camera, etc.

It took a while to get the Carplay to work, too. Turns out the wired connection doesn't work well; I had to use Wireless carplay. That ended up working fine eventually.

I haven't tested the SPDIF yet but should be in the next few weeks.

Also, I tried to use the SIM card slot but it requires a large SIM and I didn't have one that size. I wanted to just add a line to my phone plan for $30/month and have full data access on the unit but my company doesn't have the correct SIM (Visible phone company). I also tried a SIM adapter but it didn't work; that might be user error. Honestly I didn't try too hard on this one since I've been fine with Carplay.

All things considered I think it was well worth it to just deal with the quirks just to have a nice big screen, google apps, android interface, wireless carplay, and SPDIF output. And the wiring harness they include with the unit is the best I've ever seen; essentially every possible connection to the factory radio had an adapter included.

Edit: Forgot to mention that the steering wheel controls still work. My radio doesn't have a sliding/rotary volume knob so I either have to use the steering wheel controls or slide down from the top (like on a phone) and slide the volume bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #431 ·
Managed to knock out some work tonight after work.

Started by removing all the factory plastic tabs and wrapping the wire in ensolite.






Put some sheet metal over the holes.


(Deadened on the backside with raammat, then places ensolite as a gasket)










Secured to the door with some self-tapping screws. I made sure that the window rolls up and down unobstructed before calling it quits so I think it should be fine.

This weekend hopefully I can finish deadening the door and getting the ring mounted. Next on the list is bodyworking some a-pillars for the tweeters and the door panels for the mids.


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Discussion Starter · #433 ·
That is amazing!!! Solid aluminum baffles? Wholly schmoly!
Heck yeah solid aluminum. I could never justify the time and effort to make them until I started getting some high end speakers. The Stevens got the kick panel pods but I didn't like having all my foot room taken, so when I got these GB60 I knew it was the right time. The aluminum baffles plus the aluminum Frog rings makes for a nice pair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #434 ·
I was able to finish deadening the doors this evening. That included mounting the rings and test fitting the speakers.















I did the other side too but after 9pm I cared more about the work than taking pictures





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Discussion Starter · #437 ·
Nice....did you rough up the plastic on the backside so the fiberglass sticks?
Yeah I did, one of the pictures shows it. I used the edge of my dremel wheel and melted a full layer of plastic all around.

When I get to bodyworking the front I’ll use a grind wheel to get some deep gouges in the plastic so the filler can mate to the plastic.


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ABS and Fiberglass dont bond together. Best way to deal with this is to predrill a bounch of holes and apply fiberglass from both sides...kinda create a sandwich of fiberglass/abs/fiberglass.
Epoxy will be a bit better choice for this first step.

BTW nice work and I bet they will look very nice when finished
 

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Discussion Starter · #440 ·
ABS and Fiberglass dont bond together. Best way to deal with this is to predrill a bounch of holes and apply fiberglass from both sides...kinda create a sandwich of fiberglass/abs/fiberglass.
Epoxy will be a bit better choice for this first step.

BTW nice work and I bet they will look very nice when finished
I had the sandwich thing in mind because I’ll use the grinding wheel and dig into the fiberglass and the panel on the front side before laying glass filler on the front.

But also this panel needs almost zero structural integrity. The clips hold the plastic and the (4) screws hold the ring so all this is doing is holding the two together until it’s installed. So worst case scenario the fiberglass pops off behind the vinyl but the speakers can’t move.


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