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Discussion Starter #1
New vehicle new stereo right?!

What aftermarket parts I currently have
- 10w3v3 stealthbox 500 rms @ 2 ohms

What I’m thinking about adding
- pac amp pro for oem headunit integration and pre
amp outputs
- kicker IQ1000.5 really interested in dsp feature, it
would be my first, and having everything in one
package is a plus for me. Plus, the price is
tolerable
- door speakers? I haven’t decided on one yet.
My truck has either 7 or 8 speakers excluding the
sub. I plan to only run two speakers in the dash
(3.5”), front door 6x9 or 6.5, and the same for the
rear.

Where I need help is figuring out, if I’m to use a 5 channel amp, how should I wire my speakers to take advantage of the dsp per set of speakers? I realize that I may need a two amp setup if I want this to work with the current number of speakers. My goal is to be able to use the dsp for the dash, front and rear separately. I’d also like to use the least amount of devices possible. Would it be such a terrible thing to just run the rear speakers on the factory amp? I don’t notice them with the current setup anyway.

Thanks ahead of time for any suggestions




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If you are going to go 5.1 amp go 2 way active component set up front and either leave the rears off for now or run them through the factory amp. You can do this, and it will sound OK, but the time delay will be a bit off most likely. Cool thing about this is you can usually fade them out if no one is sitting back there. I did this in my GMC crew cab until I installed a 2nd amp to power them.

Can't speak to that kicker amp, but for a bit more the JL VXi series amps are really sweet. I have the 1000/5i in my truck and it is tiny and does exactly what you want it to.

Not sure what your budget is, but if you wanted to go higher to mid-range SQ in that truck some AudioFrog GS690s in the doors and GS25s in the dash would be amazing and should fit almost perfectly :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
If you are going to go 5.1 amp go 2 way active component set up front and either leave the rears off for now or run them through the factory amp. You can do this, and it will sound OK, but the time delay will be a bit off most likely. Cool thing about this is you can usually fade them out if no one is sitting back there. I did this in my GMC crew cab until I installed a 2nd amp to power them.



Can't speak to that kicker amp, but for a bit more the JL VXi series amps are really sweet. I have the 1000/5i in my truck and it is tiny and does exactly what you want it to.



Not sure what your budget is, but if you wanted to go higher to mid-range SQ in that truck some AudioFrog GS690s in the doors and GS25s in the dash would be amazing and should fit almost perfectly :)

First of all, thanks for the response!

Active meaning to use the components crossover, right? Is this the preferred method or a passive setup?

The vxi is a $550 jump in price! I’m a middle of the road guy when it comes to price. Is it really worth that much more? Also, considering the audio control D-6.1200.

Budget is flexible. I’m hoping to sell a few things so I don’t have to come out of pocket too much. I seen, either on diyma or the Ram forum, a guy, hillbillysq I think is his name, selling his gs690s because they would not fit. Without modification I’m assuming. There is a set of gs693s being sold locally for 175. Great deal but not sure I’d want coaxial speakers.

I’ll have to do some research to see if ppl are running 3ways in their Rams, where are they mounting the tweets.

The down part about going with an active setup is that I wouldn’t have individual dsp tuning capabilities for each speaker. Thinking the audio control would be a better option for this. Plus, I can send a Dsp signal out to a second amp in the future for the rears if I decide that it’s needed.


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The VXi gives you the ability to DSP every speaker if need be, plus gives you ability to DSP the outputs to additional amps.

Active implies no crossover, just using the DSP to split the sound up. If you want to stick with the 5.1 amp and power front and rear, you could get a 2 way passive setup and power that with 2 channels and power the rear with the other 2 channels.

If you want to keep the truck looking stock you could mount the tweeters in the dash location and just fabricate some brackets. I think the Rams look similar under there to what my GMC does, where the dash speakers are slightly angled. My truck has 2.5" factory mid range and I replaced with GB15 tweeters. I fabricated the brackets myself with a dremel tool. You could mount anything up there in a similar fashion and

I swear I saw a build log on here or somewhere where someone did this exact thing with a late model RAM like yours
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The VXi gives you the ability to DSP every speaker if need be, plus gives you ability to DSP the outputs to additional amps.



Active implies no crossover, just using the DSP to split the sound up. If you want to stick with the 5.1 amp and power front and rear, you could get a 2 way passive setup and power that with 2 channels and power the rear with the other 2 channels.



If you want to keep the truck looking stock you could mount the tweeters in the dash location and just fabricate some brackets. I think the Rams look similar under there to what my GMC does, where the dash speakers are slightly angled. My truck has 2.5" factory mid range and I replaced with GB15 tweeters. I fabricated the brackets myself with a dremel tool. You could mount anything up there in a similar fashion and



I swear I saw a build log on here or somewhere where someone did this exact thing with a late model RAM like yours


There’s at least one good ram build that I found. I’ll have to go back through the threads and search again. I can’t keep separate what I’ve seen on diyma and the Ram forum.

I think I’m going to go active. If I don’t, getting a DSP would be somewhat of a waist of money. Thanks for the clarification.

I see the gb15 tweets are 1.5”. I’d be replacing 3.5” speakers in my dash. When talking about speakers of like quality how do you feel about reducing the speaker size by 2”?


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There’s at least one good ram build that I found. I’ll have to go back through the threads and search again. I can’t keep separate what I’ve seen on diyma and the Ram forum.

I think I’m going to go active. If I don’t, getting a DSP would be somewhat of a waist of money. Thanks for the clarification.

I see the gb15 tweets are 1.5”. I’d be replacing 3.5” speakers in my dash. When talking about speakers of like quality how do you feel about reducing the speaker size by 2”?


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The GB15s are getting 75W from the VXi are an animal of their own. Combined with the GB60 (getting 200x2 from a focal amp) my truck sounds like you are front row at a Tool concert. I have absolutely 0 regret from downsizing to the 15s. That being said, that setup was pretty pricey, but I think any of the AF gear is going to sound amazing.

1 more thing to consider if you skip the DSP - Time alignment - One of the most important things the DSP does besides crossover frequencies. Without proper time alignment your new system will just get loud, it wont sound anywhere close to how good it will sound with proper alignment. Definitely something to think about.

Here is a good read on the subject (and basic tuning) by the guy that owns Audiofrog. I wish I would have read this before I purchased my first set of speakers, would have saved me some hassle! This guy has tons of articles on time alignment on his website as well. Quick google will find it all.

https://testgear.audiofrog.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/A-Straightforward-Stereo-Tuning-Process-and-Some-Notes-About-Why-it-Works.pdf
 

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These Rams really lend themselves to a three way front stage (I have a 2015). Drop midranges in the factory dash positions and tweeters in the sail panels.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Don’t know how to share the link but I think this is the thread we’re both thinking of by Saltyone. I think I’m going to follow this blueprint as far as speakers used. Probably simplify the install buying using one of the amps previously mentioned. And as TomT suggested, just go with a 3 way up front. Down the hole I go.





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Discussion Starter #10
Well, the 10w3 stealthbox will be for sale soon. Just picked up a netaudio dual 12 tall box for 200! Yep, 200! This also means that I can keep my RF t1000-1bd for the subs. Gonna try to find a deal on a pair of 12W6s or something similar.
 

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Well, the 10w3 stealthbox will be for sale soon. Just picked up a netaudio dual 12 tall box for 200! Yep, 200! This also means that I can keep my RF t1000-1bd for the subs. Gonna try to find a deal on a pair of 12W6s or something similar.
Wow! That’s a great deal on that box. My one 12W6V3 is enough to shake the hell out of my truck while sounding great. I can’t imagine two of them. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wow! That’s a great deal on that box. My one 12W6V3 is enough to shake the hell out of my truck while sounding great. I can’t imagine two of them. :)


That’s good news to my ears!

I wasn’t planning on this type of setup but when I seen the box for sale I had to jump on it. I would’ve regretted it if the stealthbox ended up not being enough.


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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
As TomT already knows, I purchased a pair of GS12s for my subs. So the amp, sub and box are set.

Still up in the air about the amps. I’ll need 8 channels for an active 3 way and the rear. I have a line on a vxi 800/8 used for about the same price as the audiocontrol(AC) d-6.1200. Figure I could an an additional 2 channel if I went with the AC. I’m considering the 6 ch AC when I need 8 because it has built in input and output RTAs. This will be my first time tuning and I feel like this is a big deal. Is it? The RTAs that I’ve looked up are pretty expensive and easily cost more than a 2 ch amp.

Another option that I’m now considering is having separate dsp and amps. What has me thinking about this is if I went with AC I’d only have 2 CHs of line output which would feed the 2ch amp for the rears. I wouldn’t have a dsp line output for my subs. Now I could use my LCQ-1 to eq my sub but I wouldn’t be able to utilize the RTA of the AC. So this has me thinking maybe I should look at a dsp with 10 channels of output and that would allow me to go with two 4 ch amps in addition to my RF t1000-1bdcp.

I’ll most likely be running all AF GS line for my 3 way and rear, GB line is too much for me. GS 10 tweets, GS40 in dash hopefully it fits, GS60 for door or GS690 again depending on fitment, seriously considering picking up the set of GS693 set I found locally used for 125 for the rear. The GS690 is 100 wrms so everything else is similar or lower in requirement.

Amp pro AP4-CH41 came in yesterday. Still need to order the APH-CH01 speaker harness connection. I’m just picking away at this project and picking things up as I find what I think are good prices. Eventually, I’ll move this to a build thread but for now I’m still trying to decide on my dsp and amp setup.

As always, I’m open to all ideas and thanks for the advice.


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I do like all-in-one solutions so maybe the Helix Amp/DSP combo is the best option?
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/helix/amplifiers/v-eight-dsp

If you are going three way front with multiple amps you’ll most likely run a single line from the PAC to the DSP mounted in the rear. From there you would run all new speaker wires to each driver. All of this is to say you may not need the PAC Speaker Harness since you won’t be using the factory wires.

Also, the Helix accepts digital input and the PAC has a Toslink out option. Running a single fiber cable from front to rear is easier than running multiple RCAs. Also eliminates possible noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I do like all-in-one solutions so maybe the Helix Amp/DSP combo is the best option?

https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/helix/amplifiers/v-eight-dsp



If you are going three way front with multiple amps you’ll most likely run a single line from the PAC to the DSP mounted in the rear. From there you would run all new speaker wires to each driver. All of this is to say you may not need the PAC Speaker Harness since you won’t be using the factory wires.



Also, the Helix accepts digital input and the PAC has a Toslink out option. Running a single fiber cable from front to rear is easier than running multiple RCAs. Also eliminates possible noise.


This seems like a great option. I downloaded the software. Can’t wait to play with it after work. I saw that it mentions a RTA plus a mic to use with it, sold separately I assume. Sure I’ll figure out how it works once I’m into the software. I haven’t spent much time looking but where are people buying there Helix equip from? A quick search came up with a lot of ebay hits. I do shop on eBay but it isn’t my first choice.

Thanks again TomT.


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Discussion Starter #16
Ordered Hertz ML 1650.3 and 280.3 for 590 shipped. Should be here this weekend. Now just need to find a decent price on a set of 700.3 to complete the three way.

The only things I’m missing now is a dsp and amps for the for the 3way and rear speakers. Oh, need rear speakers too. Yea I know they’re not necessary but I prefer to have rear fill. Everything is coming along nicely.


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Ordered Hertz ML 1650.3 and 280.3 for 590 shipped. Should be here this weekend. Now just need to find a decent price on a set of 700.3 to complete the three way.

The only things I’m missing now is a dsp and amps for the for the 3way and rear speakers. Oh, need rear speakers too. Yea I know they’re not necessary but I prefer to have rear fill. Everything is coming along nicely.


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I prefer rear fills also. I like the Ram's, you have a lot of options with them. I sent you a PM!
 

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The Hertz 1650.3 arrived today. What I was worried was the order for the 280.3s not being fulfilled due to being oversold. Fortunately with abt.com, unlike dicks.com, that wasn’t an issue. They should arrive Monday!

A quick note about Abt. I had a question so I used the chat feature to reach out at about 7pm ET. I think they’re CT so an hr behind. The person responding to my message did not know the answer so he/she sent my question via email to a person in that dept. I had zero expectation that I’d get a call that night bc customer service these days just isn’t a priority for some companies with a large online presence bc a new customer is always a click away. I was prepared to make the purchase without an answer bc the item was on sale and for sure was going to sell out. To my surprise, within 15 mins abt called and answered my question! It’s such a simple gesture but often times the call back is never received. I appreciate a company that does what they say they will do. It says a lot about the company culture. Perhaps, my bar is set a lil low but thats just where I’m at at the end of 2019. Hopefully these sort of things will be more common place for me in the new year. I will be looking to buy from abt again.


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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Getting closer to having everything that I need. I still need amps for the hertz speakers. I'm currently considering audiocontrol LC-4.800 for the doors and an ACM-4.300 for the dash and tweets. The tweets are rated 90 wrms. Is this realistic? I'm thinking that I should be fine to run them with the ACM providing 50 wrms x 4 @ 4. I've found both of these one new and one refurbished with warranty on different sites for a total of 550 from Audiocontrol. I'm not stuck on this brand I'm just very familiar with their lineup. Sticking close to the 550 amount, I've found a used Alpine PDX-F6 for a very reasonable price. Im sure alpine has a 4x50, or something close to it for the other four speakers. I prefer to power the Hertz speakers with the same brand and generation of amps. What are your thoughts/suggestions for powering the tweets and dash speakers 50 wrms? What are your recommendations for amps that will fit my needs and (flexible) budget?

Current equipment:
Headunit - OEM
OEM interface - pac amp pro
DSP - Helix Pro MKII with director
Tweets - Hertz ML280.3
Mids dash - Hertz ML700.3 (not purchased yet)
Front Door - Hertz 1650.3
Read Door - undetermined probably a low end hertz coax just for continuity
Subs - 2 GS12s sealed 2cf
Sub amp - RF t1000
 
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