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Discussion Starter #1
On our new 2017 F350 we decided to do an over top demo this year. Just wanted to get the build thread started early

Front stage

Hybrid Audio
Legita L8SE
R2 tweeters

rear
Legita L6
R2 tweeters

Subs
2-Clarius 10 inch D2 subs
ported box 2.00 cubic feet tuned to 34hz

Helix DSP Pro
Helix SPXL 1000 sub woofers
Helix AFH 400X rear doors
Brax Mx4 front stage

wiring
Kimber Kable RCA and 8 stand speaker wire

Sound deadening

Second skins damplifer pro (all over )
Luxury liner pro on the floor and back wall
Overkill Closed cell foam, doors and back wall

here is a picture of our last demo truck
 

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interesting choice of not using a dedicated midrange..is the r2 a wide range driver? if placed right, the eight and a 2 wide range could do very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I couldn't stand the flimsy doors on our new 2017s, Also after driving in the rain Saturday the rear doors were still dripping water Monday at lunch time. So I said screw it, Im doing my audio build over the next two weeks so I said lets do this early.

Each door got a layer of Second Skins Damplifier Pro on the inside and outside skin.

Spray glue was applied over the Damplifier and Overkill Pro Closed cell foam was glued on to the door skins,

spray glue was applied to the Overkill and luxury liner was installed over that.

Door Panels

Factory diaper pulled off,

a layer of Damplifier Pro
spray glue and Overkill Pro was glued on.

The difference is day and night. Ive taken 2 people for a ride in the truck and both of them have booked appointments to get their 2017s done.

I have to do the floor and back walls next but that will come when I pull the interior out.

drew a fine line around outside plastic so I knew where to stay inside of panel



pulled drivers side panel off



inside factory front door, 1 piece of sound deadener and seam sealer



layer of Damplifier pro going on inside skin



wrapped the bracing in the door



Overkill foam glued on



inside skin wrapped with damplifier pro



diaper pulled off factory door panel



damplifier pro added to door panel



glued overkill foam on door panel



front door back together and nothing is visible




wanted to show the amount of moisture in the rear doors





starting install






 

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Discussion Starter #7
moving along nicely should be done tonight, So far have not had to cut any metal to get the L8se's in the front doors and the L6se's fit like a dream!

So far minimal cussing and nothing being thrown







 

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Looking good brother!!! That back wall is huge.... Never would have thought you could fit an MX4 back there. Good job.
 

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I'm glad to see rear door speakers. I went through holy hell installing speakers into my rear doors in my 2006 F250.
Don't know what Ford was thinking installing them in the rear pillars.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i wanted the rear tweeters up higher in the door but it didn't work out because of the window regulator and having to drill a 2" hole through the door skin on small chance of being able to keep the wires safe. So I moved them just above the rear midbass.



Still have to cut the floor mat and secure sub box
 

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L8's in the front door!! I just ordered my 2017 F350 Platinum and find this. I'm stoked! I wanted to in my 2011 build but it was more than I wanted to deal with. Build is looking good. Subscribing for impressions with the L8 & 2" combo. Where are you putting the tweets in the pillars? Doing a center channel?

Eric
 

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Discussion Starter #13
L8's in the front door!! I just ordered my 2017 F350 Platinum and find this. I'm stoked! I wanted to in my 2011 build but it was more than I wanted to deal with. Build is looking good. Subscribing for impressions with the L8 & 2" combo. Where are you putting the tweets in the pillars? Doing a center channel?

Eric
You don't do a center channel on a high end build it will muddy the sound stage way to bad! Yes I did the r2pro tweeters in the factory location, I'm thinking about building a pod and doing an l3se in the area between the tweeters and sail panels.

The L8se and the L6se fit like a dream and couldn't have been any easier. I have an extra pair of L8se on the shelf I can make you a good deal on, and I'll take care of the rest of stuff If you need it
 

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You don't do a center channel on a high end build it will muddy the sound stage way to bad! Yes I did the r2pro tweeters in the factory location, I'm thinking about building a pod and doing an l3se in the area between the tweeters and sail panels.

The L8se and the L6se fit like a dream and couldn't have been any easier. I have an extra pair of L8se on the shelf I can make you a good deal on, and I'll take care of the rest of stuff If you need it
Unless you have logic 7
 

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I been running an MS8 in mine and never did get to try the center, have a set of L3's NIB that I was going to try. Guess they could slip in like you are planning. I may take you up on the L8's. Truck will be 6-8 more weeks.
Now to decide how much of the equipment I use from the '11 build.....

Thanks for your reply,
Eric
 

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Nowhere near as pretty as the new 2017 truck but I'm working with what I got.

The 2006 truck has the lock linkage right where the speakers need to go. Along with the motor and regulator was in the way. I modified the regulator and made a 3/4" MDF ring to keep the magnet out of the window itself. Ford was foolish to place the rear speakers in the back pillars. Just dumb, speaker is behind the rear seat.
I must admit your install looks nice.
 

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I'm curious, does water get inside your door panels?

According to this guy's Ford install, there's no way water is going to get inside your doors because it's a Ford and not a Dodge.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feGYxa4Ir3Q&feature=youtu.be&t=100 <-- explains why he used MDF for his speaker rings

He confuses himself here when he sound dampening his doors
https://youtu.be/jYs64ZMQArU?t=129

Later he finds signs of moister in his door panels...
https://youtu.be/jYs64ZMQArU?t=421
No I have not seen any water at all inside my doors and it troubled me to see the amount of water in his pictures. I would look at where the rubber door seals look like up to. My friend that has a 206 Chevy has the same problem and we found the upper window seal was too short and it was running down the glass and dripping in at the rear of the seal. We used some black rubberized silicone on the corners and it seems to have cured it.
That would freak me out because I have $1,000.oo Dynaudio's in my doors and in no way do I want moisture inside my doors. I also left my 1" CCF off the bottom area of all my doors so just in case I do get moisture inside my doors it can run out of bottom drain holes.
The Ford front door window seals have that dip in the front so the rear view mirror can be seen better. Drawback there is when that seal dries up over time it looses its ability to squeegee off water and keep inside door dry. I make a habit to replace every 3 years to keep them pliable.
I would track down the source of the leak and fix it for SURE.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Nowhere near as pretty as the new 2017 truck but I'm working with what I got.

The 2006 truck has the lock linkage right where the speakers need to go. Along with the motor and regulator was in the way. I modified the regulator and made a 3/4" MDF ring to keep the magnet out of the window itself. Ford was foolish to place the rear speakers in the back pillars. Just dumb, speaker is behind the rear seat.
I must admit your install looks nice.
here is how I did the rear doors on our 13 and 16 model superduty trucks.

I couldn't be happier with this stereo, its my favorite one to date
 

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Your truck is looking great. For the subs (2-Clarius 10 inch D2 subs
ported box 2.00 cubic feet tuned to 34hz) you are running them in a fox acoustics box?

I ask because I can't decide on equipment for my truck (2017 F250). I have a budget of around 2200 or so dollars for equipment. I don't need the loudest truck on the block but I want the sound stage upfront not to be drowned out by the subs.....any suggestions would be great.

Your build is amazing but out of my price range.
 
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