Unfortunately, it’s a completely different mounting surface. I’ve seen both of theirs and they have it easy!I would reference @Truthunter's and @Chris12's build logs- while they are not the same generation of camry both have done an excellent job of the entire install, including Infinite Baffle, and you may be able to gather ideas to take over to your generation of camry.
Hello All, My name is Chris and I’m from the Bay Area. I figured that I’d start a log after mulling around the site for a few months. I’m preparing to start my most in depth build since 2Pac was on the radio. I’m confident in my 12v skills, but this will be my first time using a DSP. I must...www.diymobileaudio.comI’ve always been interested in building a moderate SQ system ever since I heard a competition vehicle back in the 90’s, but never got around to dedicating the time/money to do so. Recent years have been dedicated to home improvements/repairs and I still have some more, uh, a lot more of that to...www.diymobileaudio.com
Thank you! Mainly replacing the carpet. Could care less about rivnuts in the metal since it’ll either be hidden or just always there. I just hate replacing carpet if there are a bunch of holes in it. Goal is 2 Dayton Ultimax 12s. There’s enough width there to fit the 2.How many subs? What size?
You mentioned trying to limit holes into the car, does that specifically mean drilling into the metal or cutting trunk trim? Both?
What other constraints apply to your install? I can see a few different ways to make this work, I'll start drawing in MS paint on your pic once I hear back!
That’s basically what a VW cc trunk looks like even where the baffle will be ..View attachment 321773
Here is the trunk. One with carpet and one without. I’m having a hard time as far as how to connect it to the bottom of the car. My idea was to make a flat baffle where the crossbar is at the top of the picture and secure it to the car somehow but still a tad skeptical. Was trying to not make a bunch of holes in my car but it is what it is I guess.
Yeah. My idea was to mount a flat piece on the place where the rivnut are now and have the sub facing into the trunk. Do a double baffle from there and do a bottom piece to secure to the car. Sides would be there for strength only then flush trim baffle to the sides for no leakage.So you could do something like this with a multi layered baffle, the first two baffles shaped like the yellow, the the final two shaped like the red dashed line to give you a surface to bolt into the metal up top. Potential rivnut locations shown in blue and a piece of 90* metal to bolt into the car and baffle for support on the bottom shown in green.
You could also utilize T-channel aluminum to accomplish this like Peter (pssounds) did in a build. Using a T-channel aluminum frame he was able to use a single baffle which would save a lot of weight if that is a concern.
My amp rack is done already. The only problem with that is that black thing hanging down but I dont know what’s in it. I can only fit 2 0.75” baffles before getting in there but can fit 2 15s that way. I know where 2 Ultimax 12s are that are cheap (like BOGO) which is the current plan right now.On top attach a board to the metal and use that to attach the baffle. Yoi can also make this several layers and then fit bigger subs into the car. This the only place my baffle is attached and quickaudi also has done his VW cc this exact way. I copied him exactly on the baffle. But we then cut the baffle so it’s a press fit into place. It’s so tight we’ll have to get into the trunk and kick and leg press it into place. It doesn’t budge and is almost impossible to get back out since there’s nothing to lean against and kick and press back out 😂
we managed to fit 18” and it’s amazing View attachment 321921
What is the actual cut out opening dimensionsMy amp rack is done already. The only problem with that is that black thing hanging down but I dont know what’s in it. I can only fit 2 0.75” baffles before getting in there but can fit 2 15s that way. I know where 2 Ultimax 12s are that are cheap (like BOGO) which is the current plan right now.
Main reason for the 12s is for budget. I can fit 2 15s. I’ve heard nothing but good things for the ultimax IB for the price. I’d love to get 2 IB3 15s ideally. That’d be the end game plan. I can fit 18s, it’d just take some more room depth wise. I have to fit a stroller in the trunk so trying to stay awake from that if I can.What is the actual cut out opening dimensions
you want subs with a qts as close to .7 or at least over .5 for IB The uktomax is kinda low for IB and doesn’t have as much as xmax as others.
stereo integrity makes IB subs if you call and ask. He doesn’t have them on the site but there’s many of us that run his custom IB18s and they are nuts. 30 or 33 xmax also compared to the Dayton which is aroind 18mm
fi car audio makes IB subs also there 15 and 18” have 33 xmax and a qts aroind .7 the stereo integrity Ib are also .707
here’s the fi link.
you want to go as big as possible with Ib. The more cone area and xmax the better.
skip the ultimax even though it’s a good deal. It’s not designed for what ya want to accomplish so the results wouldn’t be nearly as good. They will bottom out too fast with the low qts and xmax.
can you fit a single 18 like many of us did? The basket won’t be 18” so if ya space the baffle back the two 3/4” boards you might fit a 18”
here’s a fine area chart to give ya idea the difference when comparing say two 12” to a single 18”
a single 18 is more cone area than two 12” Two 15” is more than three 12”
View attachment 321923
View attachment 321922
Reverse the 18 so the magnet goes into the car so ya have the trunk space stillMain reason for the 12s is for budget. I can fit 2 15s. I’ve heard nothing but good things for the ultimax IB for the price. I’d love to get 2 IB3 15s ideally. That’d be the end game plan. I can fit 18s, it’d just take some more room depth wise. I have to fit a stroller in the trunk so trying to stay awake from that if I can.