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Discussion Starter #1
First and foremost I'd like to thank all those that have posted their stereo builds on these 2015+ GM trucks! It's been a great help!

Second and in all honesty, this will be my first crack at fairly involved stereo install and because of that I'll, no doubt, have plenty of questions as I go along.

Thirdly, I think I've collected just about everything I'll need to get this install completed or well on its way.

Lastly, my idea for this effort is to break the install up into manageable (smaller) jobs as much as I can to keep moving in the right direction and so that I don't get overwhelmed.

As for the gear I've selected; it's all pretty standard stuff for these later model GM trucks; mine has the 8" screen without Bose so I bought the AmpPro AP4-GM61 and JL Twk-88 for signal processing.

For amplifiers I'll be running two Pioneer units (a 4 channel and a mono)

For system speakers I chose 2x Kicker 10" L7 subs, a set of JBL components for the front speakers and some JBL coaxial for rear fill.

So that's it in a nutshell....looking forward to spending many hours getting this all figured out and installed!
 

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Sounds like a good start! I've been really pleased with the AmpPro and my non-Bose setup. The lack of stereo signal for the radio does sound pretty lame to be honest, but I really only tune in for morning radio shows, any music is coming from my phone via Android Auto. It was a compromise I was willing to make in order to have a good signal to start with and the ability to turn down the chime volume (also a single optical cable to the DSP was nice).

Good plan on the smaller manageable chunks. I tried to follow the same approach. Started with power wiring, then AmpPro/harness, then amp rack, so on and so on. It made it a little easier to try and accomplish small tasks, and it also helped to do it in pieces that could be completed and benefits realized immediately.

Best of luck with the build!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds like a good start! I've been really pleased with the AmpPro and my non-Bose setup. The lack of stereo signal for the radio does sound pretty lame to be honest, but I really only tune in for morning radio shows, any music is coming from my phone via Android Auto. It was a compromise I was willing to make in order to have a good signal to start with and the ability to turn down the chime volume (also a single optical cable to the DSP was nice).

Good plan on the smaller manageable chunks. I tried to follow the same approach. Started with power wiring, then AmpPro/harness, then amp rack, so on and so on. It made it a little easier to try and accomplish small tasks, and it also helped to do it in pieces that could be completed and benefits realized immediately.

Best of luck with the build!
Thank you! I followed your build thread for reference....pics aren't showing up anymore though. Planning on running 1/0 main power through the firewall; the big rubber grommet seems the most common but its fairly covered up in my truck.

So you ran the toslink? What length did you need and how do you like that vs the rca's?
 

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Thank you! I followed your build thread for reference....pics aren't showing up anymore though. Planning on running 1/0 main power through the firewall; the big rubber grommet seems the most common but its fairly covered up in my truck.

So you ran the toslink? What length did you need and how do you like that vs the rca's?
Yea, for some reason all my Google photos links broke after the forum update, haven't had the time (or motivation) to go and fix them all yet. If you have some specific things you need or want to see, let me know and I can repost them.

Yea, I was able to use that big rubber grommet, however the rubber "flap" piece was definitely a bear to get out. I had to work it for a good 10 minutes or so to get it out. It helped to unbolt that box underneath if you haven't done so already.

Yes! I ran both the optical AND some 6 channel RCA's. Honestly I don't have a fair comparison between them because the RCA's I had running directly into the amp at first whereas the optical swtich was done in conjunction with the DSP of course. I think really the difference I hear is the addition of the DSP to the mix. You will find some that have said the RCAs out of the AP4 can be noisy, though I didn't really notice that while using it directly into the amp. I guess it just comes down to preference, tho if I'm being honest I feel like the optical has the "cool" factor going for it, all digital straight to the DSP!

I ended up going with a 15' optical cable, it gave me enough to run from the AP4/radio under the dash and down the drivers side with about 2' to spare on the back wall where I mounted my amps. It's hard to tell here because it's not quite zoomed out but I think I still have one or two coils of length on that toslink that I tied inside the rear pillar and it reaches the DSP that's almost in line with the seatbelt bolts:
268487
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have a small sheet (24" x 48") of 1/4" thick ABS on its way and like you, wanted to utilize the back wall for mounting the amps, DSP, etc. I think I will follow suit and get my power wires run to the back wall first. Any pics and/or tips for that first operation is greatly appreciated!
 

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Hmm...where to start. The little plastic covers on top of the wire chases in front of the doors were kind of a pain in the butt for me for whatever reason. Also, it was easier for me to pull the wire first and then terminate it once I got the end through those chases. I think I ordered something like 22ft of wire for the main power run but used less than 20ft.

I'm assuming you are using some distribution block(s), so maybe think about where you want to mount those. I kind of made a mistake by not taking into consideration the "features" of the truck when I laid out that rack. The way the main power comes into that combo block it makes it go right across the cab vent on the drivers side. I didn't think much of it until I tried to put the factory sound insulation back and now it won't seal around the vent properly. This causes some road noise that creeps in from that vent, it's slight but noticeable when no music is playing.

The rubber "nipple" in the engine bay that most have used to get inside the vehicle was big enough for me to fit some 1/0 Kolossus Fleks that I sleeved in some PET. Worked great. I can definitely recommend using ferrules, they made life a lot easier (once I finally managed to stuff that oversized 1/0 into one...) when connecting to the distro block.

Have you given any thought to how you will attach that ABS to the back wall? I will say that I do NOT recommend the JB Weld/epoxy and elevator bolt method, could not get it to hold. If you plan on using some nutserts in that channel, be sure to check inside the channel first for any supports that may be hiding, definitely hit one on the drivers side.

I'm sure there is a bunch I'm forgetting, but if you have specific questions I'm happy to share what I learned.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hmm...where to start. The little plastic covers on top of the wire chases in front of the doors were kind of a pain in the butt for me for whatever reason. Also, it was easier for me to pull the wire first and then terminate it once I got the end through those chases. I think I ordered something like 22ft of wire for the main power run but used less than 20ft.

I'm assuming you are using some distribution block(s), so maybe think about where you want to mount those. I kind of made a mistake by not taking into consideration the "features" of the truck when I laid out that rack. The way the main power comes into that combo block it makes it go right across the cab vent on the drivers side. I didn't think much of it until I tried to put the factory sound insulation back and now it won't seal around the vent properly. This causes some road noise that creeps in from that vent, it's slight but noticeable when no music is playing.

The rubber "nipple" in the engine bay that most have used to get inside the vehicle was big enough for me to fit some 1/0 Kolossus Fleks that I sleeved in some PET. Worked great. I can definitely recommend using ferrules, they made life a lot easier (once I finally managed to stuff that oversized 1/0 into one...) when connecting to the distro block.

Have you given any thought to how you will attach that ABS to the back wall? I will say that I do NOT recommend the JB Weld/epoxy and elevator bolt method, could not get it to hold. If you plan on using some nutserts in that channel, be sure to check inside the channel first for any supports that may be hiding, definitely hit one on the drivers side.

I'm sure there is a bunch I'm forgetting, but if you have specific questions I'm happy to share what I learned.
Did you have to remove the C-Pillar plastic piece to trim the stock sound insulation and route wires?
 

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Did you have to remove the C-Pillar plastic piece to trim the stock sound insulation and route wires?
Yes, you kind of need to in order to get the factory sound mat off. There's 3 plastic washer/nut deals on each side that is much easier to access with the pillar off.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, you kind of need to in order to get the factory sound mat off. There's 3 plastic washer/nut deals on each side that is much easier to access with the pillar off.
Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions! Greatly appreciate it. I'll check in when I'm a little farther along. I did install a rear seat lift bracket kit to get more room in an attempt to get close to the specified sealed subwoofer volume needed for the two 10" L7's. Not a perfect solution just yet as some adjustments need to be made to make it function better.
 

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I'm interested to see how the LMI kit works for you, I've really been struggling on how to design a better box that will fit in that shallow of a space. Their description was a little hard for me to understand, does it include some latch extenders for the seatbacks? And then are they short enough to "unlock" when the set is raised and allow the seat backs to come forward?

I feel like eventually I may go this route. Outside of the additional height, it'd be really handy to have access to the back wall where the amps are, though once everything is set and dialed in I'm not sure how often that'd happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The LMI kit is nice in that it provides a fairly clean way of spacing the rear seat up it what appears to be a reasonably safe manner. It is, however, not without a few issues on the newer trucks. 1) the seat folds down just fine but the nut on the seat frame gouges the side decorative plastic trim when doing so. My thought to fix this is just to trim a 1/2" or so off the plastic panel to allow the nut to travel through its full arc without making contact with anything. 2) The rear seat can fold down after the bottom is folded up because the seat back rises when you do this. There are no bracket extenders on the newer trucks because there is enough contact when open (bottom seat down) and the back seat rises enough when the bottom is folded up to allow the seat hook to release from the metal slot on the back wall to fold down. Problem is, where the seat-back metal hook engages the metal slot is so tight the plastic insert that attaches to the inside of the metal slot (so there is no metal to metal contact) dislodges with this movement. My plan is to use some old school (black) weather stripping adhesive in the hopes it locks the plastic pieces in place such that they don't come out with the movement.

If you'd like, I can take pics of what I am describing to give you a better idea of what's going on. At the end of the day, if all works out, the fixes are simple and I really don't know of any kit better than the LMI. I've had the rear seat loaded; no issues.
 

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Sure, I think I'm tracking so far but a picture always helps.

Good information to know though, I wouldn't have thought about clearance issues between the nuts and plastic panels. And yes, those plastic inserts on the seatback hook "loops" are kind of a pain, I knocked them off several times just taking mine in and out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here's where the nut makes contact with plastic; just going to trim that portion off....should be mostly unnoticeable

 

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Discussion Starter #17
MTI acoustics had a 20% off sale so I ordered and full length sub box up-firing to fit under the rear seat for the two kicker L7's. Nothing fancy like most of the boxes I see them make, just simple black carpet so it mostly fades away under some dark window tint. I'll snap a few pics and post them when it shows up!
 

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Awesome ! This is some good info ! I just picked up a 2016 Z71 LTZ Crew cab Duramax myself. I have a list of stuff to go in it.
Hybrid Audio
L1v2 Pro tweetera
Unity U3’s mid range for the dash
Unity U69s for the mid bass for the front doors
Unity U61c-2v2 (convertible components) for the rear doors
Zapco ADSP-Z8 IV II (8 ch amp/DSP)
Hybrid Audio Unity U1A amp
2 JL Audio 13TW5-4’s
MTI Acoustics sub box
KnuKonceptz 0 gauge power wire with some 4 gauge wire
KnuKonceptz Krystal 4 ch & 2 channel RCA’s

not sure if I want to run the AmpPro unit or the Nav-TV unit.
I’ll be running everything active thru the DSP. I cant wait to get everything installed. I’ll be sound deadening all the doors too.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Awesome ! This is some good info ! I just picked up a 2016 Z71 LTZ Crew cab Duramax myself. I have a list of stuff to go in it.
Hybrid Audio
L1v2 Pro tweetera
Unity U3’s mid range for the dash
Unity U69s for the mid bass for the front doors
Unity U61c-2v2 (convertible components) for the rear doors
Zapco ADSP-Z8 IV II (8 ch amp/DSP)
Hybrid Audio Unity U1A amp
2 JL Audio 13TW5-4’s
MTI Acoustics sub box
KnuKonceptz 0 gauge power wire with some 4 gauge wire
KnuKonceptz Krystal 4 ch & 2 channel RCA’s

not sure if I want to run the AmpPro unit or the Nav-TV unit.
I’ll be running everything active thru the DSP. I cant wait to get everything installed. I’ll be sound deadening all the doors too.
I'm interested to see how the install goes for you, hope you post a build thread so I can follow! Good luck! I will post my updates as I go!
 

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Thanks ! Yea I’m still acquiring parts at the moment. I have most of what I need. Then it will be a decision between the PAC unit or the NAV-Tv unit. Then, once all parts are acquired ..... it will be finding time to do the install !! That’s the tedious part !
 
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