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Discussion Starter #82 (Edited)
Updated all the pieces Ive needed for this install with links incase any lurkers are interested. Again my setup is bassed off of keeping everything hidden and stock looking inside with a decent audio boost over the premium Beats or Alpine systems. JL Powerwedge will replace the factory sub and fits perfectly in its place and the electronics will all fit underneath the floor right behind the last row seats. The only piece you might have to relocate is the tire jack which will fit in the storage spot in back underneath the floor.

PAC AmpPRo 4 AP4-CH41 https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-ch41
PAC APH-CH01 https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amplifier-integration-harness/aph-ch01
Morel Tempo Ultras 692 https://www.crutchfield.com/S-EEcbbwp7kFQ/p_210TU692/Morel-Tempo-Ultra-692.html
HAT Mirus M61-2 Mirus M61-2 6.5" Coaxial Speaker Set - 12v Electronics
Focal FDP 4.600 https://www.crutchfield.com/S-GgOW4nmd16y/p_091FDP4600/Focal-FDP-4-600.html
JL Powerwedge+ ACS110LG-TW1 ACS110LG-TW1 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Systems - PowerWedge+™ - JL Audio
KnoKnoise Kolossus Deadener Kno Knoise Kolossus Edition Car Kit 35sq ft - Merchandise
KnoKnoise Amp Kit Complete 4 Gauge 4 Channel Amplifier Installation Kit - Merchandise
Metra 82-660 Rear Speaker Adapters https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1BO90A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Metra 71-050 Speaker Wiring Adapters https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Q3ckxHBvw7A/p_12071050/Metra-71-050-Speaker-Wiring-Adapters.html
Road Kill RKFR69 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0768MVCCR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Road Kill RKFR6 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076MM4DJV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
TIYANG Car Audio Stereo Distribution Fuse Block https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078SCQJNM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Parts Express Speaker Gasketing Tape https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPLPM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Total cost: $2,000
Did a bit of shopping around for best pricing. Would have been around $2,400 otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Quick question if I were to just run new wires for the door speakers to the amp leaving the factory door speaker connectors just unplugged/unused would that work as well? Not sure if I wanna tackle the Pac Aph-ch01 wiring. It would be easier just to run speaker wire I'm thinking. Would I have to splice any wires or hack the harness if I went this route instead? Or would it be run the wires,hook up the amp and done?
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Another update got the front doors finished this past weekend.

Front passenger door interiors. 10mm,7mm,screwdriver needed to get all doors off. Once the panel is off,remove door handle assembly(slides out) and unplug tweeter clip up top and unclip window controls clip. Same for back doors minus tweeter clip.




Foam/deadener placed under these panels.




Plenty of deadener coverage for the plastic panels



Got quite alot of deadener inside on the metal around 2 sheets of Kollossus per door, didnt take pics this time though. Also didnt apply any on the interior frame of the door,except around the speaker enclosure part. We'll see if its needed as Im not pushing tons of bass...yet!


Next weekend Ill hit the rear hatch door with deadener and start the wire running for the speakers.

Also anyone know what the sheets of sound blocking material are called? And/Or a decent priced brand? Im thinking I might install some in the doors
 

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Finally pulled a door off!


Any reason why you didn’t take this panel off to deaden the inside? Fourthmeal care to chime in as well? I’m contemplating lol!

Ooooh, yeah bad timing for me, I've been moving for the last couple weeks and have been very limited on internet time. So yeah, I did NOT pull that panel on the Durango. I have done it on a Mazdaspeed3 with the same basic fiber-reinforced plastic inner skin, and man it is NOT worth it. I guess as you found out that the window track rides in/on it, and it can be really tough to get back. There's just so much weight to contend with, in awkward positions.




I just made my way through the rest of your build, looks great thus far!
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Not much to report lately,things have picked up at work so I haven't had anytime to do much. All that needs to be done is to install the amp and finish deadener in the rear hatch door. I also need to build a mount for the amp n crossovers to rest on. After removing the tire jack and its mount,I see there is a downward slope there for where I'm placing everything,so making the mount will be a bit more challenging especially since I have no tools to do so lol.
 

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Not much to report lately,things have picked up at work so I haven't had anytime to do much. All that needs to be done is to install the amp and finish deadener in the rear hatch door. I also need to build a mount for the amp n crossovers to rest on. After removing the tire jack and its mount,I see there is a downward slope there for where I'm placing everything,so making the mount will be a bit more challenging especially since I have no tools to do so lol.

That is correct, locating everything can be a little tricky. That's one reason my amps were nested in the rear there, behind the subs. But it was a "get there somehow" type of setup I did. In fact it was supposed to be a temporary setup (still looked OK with LED's and a stacked design) but it ended up being permanent for 3 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
So after much back and forth I've decided to just have the amp professionally installed. Unfortunately I dont have the time or tools to finish up the install myself. I've got a cross country family vacation coming up in a week and a half and I was hoping I'd finish before then but its just not possible with work and all. Hate to pony up the cash and not finish the build myself but it is what it is. Had fun with the rest of the build! I'll throw some pics up when I get it all finished.
 

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Discussion Starter #97 (Edited)
Okay another update,finally got the amp installed and everything is sounding EXCELLENT. Still some tweaks needed through the PAC and AMP but as is, Im pleasently surprised. Good god those Morels sound great,especialy the tweeters,everything sounds so focused and clean and LOUD! Focal amp is holding it down without even breaking a sweat. No rattles from any of the doors at all. There are a couple I need to chase down in the back. I think some of it is the seatbelt clasps up top. Plus I still need to deaden the cargo door. Stock chimes,blutooth,and functions all work just as before.

Still toying with the idea of adding another amp and sub for the times I want obnoxious bass. But the new door speakers and amp really pulled the sound together nicely,filled in the gaps. For my daily commutes this setup is really enough.DSP is still in the future as well,probably the next step once I get back from vacation.

Full system Installed..
Trunk all stock in appearence. Rear seats, tire jack and cargo still function as normal.





Underneath the spring loaded panels, Focal amp left, JL Sub on the right


Storage space still all there. Tire Jack and its components are wrapped in the orange raincoat. Still plenty of cargo space available too.







Amp fits with space to spare. Amp mount uses the tire jack bolt mounts to keep it stable. Crossovers are mounted underneath on the mount. Controls are positioned to the front for easy tweaking.The mount is not all that visually pleasing,Ima take it out and repaint it maybe build up the sides,make it look better. It is hidden tho so for now I can live with it.








Looking at everything from inside the ride underneath the seats



JL sub tucked away



Focal Amp. Plenty of space for airflow to keep it cooler.



Pretty much all consealed,hidden away unless you get down to look under the seats.



 

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Looking good man! Curious what you think that you may need to do on the AmpPro after the fact though. Glad to see a happy DD owner!
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Looking good man! Curious what you think that you may need to do on the AmpPro after the fact though. Glad to see a happy DD owner!
Thanks! With the AmpPro there are just the little eq settings I haven't played with,and within them is a Q-factor for each band? I'm not familiar with the term. So I can either disable the Factory eq and use the AmpPros eq settings or leave it as. Curious if there will b a difference worth noting between them. Can anyone explain q-factor?
 

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Thanks! With the AmpPro there are just the little eq settings I haven't played with,and within them is a Q-factor for each band? I'm not familiar with the term. So I can either disable the Factory eq and use the AmpPros eq settings or leave it as. Curious if there will b a difference worth noting between them. Can anyone explain q-factor?

Parametric EQ's have Q-Factor adjustments to determine how "peaky" or "trough-y" the EQ filter is. The higher the number, the sharper the peak or trough. You can also think of Q-Factor as the bandwidth dial; how much of the frequency response range will an EQ affect around the center frequency will depend on the Q factor.



So the point here is to take microphone measurements of the listening area, discover the issues with the response that are beyond ideal high or low, and correct them with the EQ. It is the same process as an advanced EQ from any of the big boys, but obviously less EQ bands means less you can do to correct issues.
 
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