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2018 golf R
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Discussion Starter · #264 ·
the sub crossover scheme in andy's tuning guide
thanks for clarification - was about to re-read his guide now that I am into the tuning phase. Already read through it once a few months ago, I'll give it a proper read through while I go through tuning of each speaker set.
 

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2018 golf R
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Discussion Starter · #265 ·
Another small update to share - got to working on the DSP remote, mounting it in a nice stealth location that was otherwise unused. Not perfect but I am pretty happy with the results. This was an imperfect shape to copy so I did my best.


Started with a cardboard template, then transferred over to ABS plastic, straightened out the sides with a straight piece of MDF to get a nicer finish and rounded top corners.


Wood Gas Rectangle Electronic device Gadget




Rectangle Gadget Wood Gas Bumper







Did a 1/8" chamfer all around the front side to ease wrapping it in carpet.





Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Gadget






Table Automotive lighting Trunk Automotive design Automotive tire




Vehicle Car Steering wheel Plant Motor vehicle



Plant Car Gear shift Vehicle Motor vehicle
 

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Trying to figure out where i was in my life and what i was trying to contribute to that thread. Gotta learn to shut up sometimes.
Yo all love bro! I enjoyed talking with you back and forth. There’s not a lot of dialogue on our vehicle and I appreciated it. I was surprised to learn that there still was little info still on the GTI when I was looking the last couple years.

I just saw some random car installer website copy pasting my wiring diagram verbatim on their site without mentioning me lol. Which is fine just unexpected from a formal installer with a website.

I previously had a Acura TLX and I was almost the only one discussing and figuring out how to mod the audio system.

Ive gotten very very sick for a few years and medical bills out of pocket skyrocketed so my progress halted. So frustrated. The last step for me was just needing someone to fab some a pillars for the speakers I already bought , and find the right fabric, and tune it myself with what’s already installed, and I can finally be done :)
 

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2018 golf R
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Discussion Starter · #268 ·
Man I so want custom pillars with mods and tweets. Next car. These A pillars are a nightmare to fit - even Peter from PSSound (YouTube) did a 2022 mk8 VW GTI and was saying they were so difficult to build and fit - I find their angle to be quite aggressive and they’re so annoying to fit back into place to verify for clearance.
 

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2018 golf R
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Discussion Starter · #269 ·
Dang you don’t happen to have another one of these lying around I can buy? My fuse holder currently sits between the battery and the unit to the side of it.
No :( I used up my ABs with this one. Only had smaller pieces left. Not super difficult to make though, used my router and torch :p
 

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Man I so want custom pillars with mods and tweets. Next car. These A pillars are a nightmare to fit - even Peter from PSSound (YouTube) did a 2022 mk8 VW GTI and was saying they were so difficult to build and fit - I find their angle to be quite aggressive and they’re so annoying to fit back into place to verify for clearance.
Look up 2018 gti mk 7.5 a pillar speakers and there is a shop that used the little window to incorporate some GB25s and GB10s. It's pretty slick. My first attempt ended up with everything at weird angles. My second attempt used a teardrop template and came out pretty nice. Good luck!
 

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2018 golf R
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Discussion Starter · #271 ·
Look up 2018 gti mk 7.5 a pillar speakers and there is a shop that used the little window to incorporate some GB25s and GB10s. It's pretty slick. My first attempt ended up with everything at weird angles. My second attempt used a teardrop template and came out pretty nice. Good luck!
very nice! Funny because when I started removing the first A-pillar, and was having trouble initially, I thought to myself 'that little useless window is an excellent spot for a pod, maybe I should just throw the tweeter in there so it is more on axis' - but it would have been quite a lot more work. I have tackled MANY build obstacles with this build and achieved many personal goals, which I am very happy about, learning some new skills and upping my install game - my next challenge will be pillar pods for a 3-way setup, however this will most likely be in the next vehicle, since I only plan to own this one for 3 more years max and I have a baby incoming in 2 months so no more personal time for projects for a while :p

Not only will I be trying pillar pods next build, but I will also attempt woofers outside of the doors (if possible) in their own pods (footwell corners most likely). Following PSSound on youtube has really inspired me to push myself towards more professional builds and higher quality SQ systems. This would be the next stage in my mobile audio journey.
 

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i've pulled the pillars in my mk6 golf, definitely seems like they installed the windshield last when assembling the car. i could see removal/installation would be much easier without the windshield. :)
 

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2018 golf R
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Discussion Starter · #274 ·
FINALLY found a work-around for my DSP issue - although I think it is a major glitch in the processor GUI, unfortunately. Looks like not a ton of people are running the DSP-V8 original (more seem to be on the V8 II which has an updated GUI)

I had to basically connect to the DSP, delete all presets, then go to "factory settings" which seemed to do something funky to the DSP. I then exited the GUI on my tablet, shut off the car to power down everything, then re-connected and re-started inputting all my settings from scratch (I had a photo of course) and wrote it to the DSP and BOOM it worked. I really hope I don<t have to do this each time I want to change the crossover points as it is a pain BUT after measuring with REW I assume I would get a better final idea of where the drivers perform well and do one final adjustment on the crossover points, so not a deal breaker.

My crossover slopes all set to 24dB now, tweets at 3000 Hz up, mids at 80-3000 Hz - rears full range from 100hz up (they have built in crossovers), and subs at 80hz low pass.

Now I have a base setup I need to take the time to start measuring and tuning. Hopefully this weekend - I assume it's a good couple of hours job to get a basic tune in there. I will need to get some renos done on our upstairs unit first, so I may have to wait a week or two to tune this. At least I can listen though!

I don't seem to be getting much midbass from the door drivers; I tried just playing them on their own and observed this - not sure if it's just me or because they're small 5-1/4 and placement is in the doors which is imperfect. They're just not as punchy as I would have thought. . If I put them down to 60HZ crossover hey are a little more punchy, but their specs say 58hZ minimum frequency response and so I don't want to go too close and push them too much.

I may have to re-do the gains on the amps because the DSP master volume was previously at max, but in reality it is supposed to be set to 0dB (third tick from max) which gives me more headroom at my head unit's max volume. It's pretty loud to begin with, but I have a feeling I will get used to it quick and when I am driving on highway I may want a little more - we shall see. I haven<t tried it much over half volume.

Tried without the rears and I can confirm they do add something even if at lower volume than the rest - if gives a kind of larger image of sound stage - I like it but I really need to do more research, reading and watch some videos on how to optimally tune rear fill to have the greatest effect in my system.
 

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I run 5.25” up front and found crossing higher gives more punch and as I don’t expect them to play low I prefer the punch.

I used 125Hz LR24 high pass.

Then I used the sub to bring back the low end.

I had to turn down the tweeters (2 way) to balance it - currently at -11db on the tweeters.

Just need to play around with it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #276 ·
I run 5.25” up front and found crossing higher gives more punch and as I don’t expect them to play low I prefer the punch.

I used 125Hz LR24 high pass.

Then I used the sub to bring back the low end.

I had to turn down the tweeters (2 way) to balance it - currently at -11db on the tweeters.

Just need to play around with it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey thanks For sharing that info!
I feel like my tweeters definitely need to be turned down some as they do play pretty loud in comparison. I’ll definitely play around with it. Love the overall clarity and intensity of the system as a whole though! Definitely in the right track.

i think I will try something similar to your settings as another preset and see how I prefer it. Just from listening, these subs definitely seem to Peak higher and don’t get super low (low profile) but sound really full and punchy, quite dynamic.
I really need to get an RTA measurement going to see exactly what the system is doing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
I run 5.25” up front and found crossing higher gives more punch and as I don’t expect them to play low I prefer the punch.

I used 125Hz LR24 high pass.

Then I used the sub to bring back the low end.

I had to turn down the tweeters (2 way) to balance it - currently at -11db on the tweeters.

Just need to play around with it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
forgot to ask, was curious what your sub is crossed over at?
 

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I know you dropped the doors to 60hz but maybe do 12db 80hz. Should be safe and might give you a little oomph. I don't know if that would force the low pass into 12db as well though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #280 ·
I know you dropped the doors to 60hz but maybe do 12db 80hz. Should be safe and might give you a little oomph. I don't know if that would force the low pass into 12db as well though.
I am at 80hz currently as the 60hz would be too close to their minimum and I don’t want any beaming at higher volume. I mean, they can take a little more power than my amp can give so maybe I’m not pushing them hard enough too! Lol
 
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