DIYMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner
Cancel

2018 Grand Cherokee build help for beginner

3159 Views 75 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  daloudin, 
S
Looking to upgrade the sound in my 2018 Grand Cherokee which currently has the factory Alpine 9 speaker setup. I intend on running the factory head unit for now.

I’ve been reading the forum threads and understand I need to run a clean line out because the factory unit mixes the speakers for the current setup. For this I’ve chosen the JL FiX 86. The following are the rest of the components I’ve put together for this upgrade. Please make any suggestions as far as compatibility or if there is a better, comparable choice. Or any other tips and tricks I probably don’t know about.


Equipment:

Fronts: JL C1-690 Components

Rears: JL C1-650 Components

Sub: JL HO110-W6v3 ported wedge

Amp: JL VX1000 5i

Signal Converter: JL FiX 86

DSP: TuN built into the amp

Knob: DRC-205 adjusting sub volume

Deadening: around the speakers in the doors

4 Gauge amp kit

16 gauge speaker wire; 12 gauge to Sub?

JL Audio Fix-LSA-4 for the FiX 86 to keep the head unit from shutting down when it can’t sense a center speaker any longer? Do I need this?


Questions:
  1. It says the Fix 86 gets its signal from the speaker wiring - do you just splice into the speaker wire for each speaker behind the head unit or factory amp? And then run it into the 86? And then RCAs from the 86 to the VX1000 amp? And then the new speaker wire from the VX1000 back out to the speakers?
  2. Is the FiX 86 better than the PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41 or the Rockford DSR1 which are also compatible with my car? Figure it makes sense to keep the system all JL, but wasn’t sure if it mattered.
  3. Should I just disconnect the center dash speaker and built in sub? From what I understand, the VX1000 5i and TuN software will only do a stereo L/R mix? So that center channel is not compatible with that?
  4. Do people ever run coaxial 2-ways in the doors and separate tweeters in the pillars as well? Is that overkill or can it be tuned well?
  5. Will I miss the center dash speaker’s output or will the center soundstage with the new setup be so awesome I won’t care about that center?
  6. Does it make sense to run components speakers in the rear doors since I have the rear pillars as well? I’ve seen some just run coaxials in the rear and disconnect the pillars.
  7. I’ve considered Audiofrog, but they are significantly more expensive. And I like the idea of all the same brand speakers and don’t know enough about mixing them.
  8. Can I make spacers to flush mount the 1” tweeters in both front and rear? I like the tweeter being less filtered and also like the badging showing.
  9. I’ve seen the setups some people have done with the spare tire cavity and might do something like that one day, but want to start with something simple, which is why I chose the W6 in the premade wedge enclosure. I’ve seen some people bolt them down; I’ve been thinking velcro might work well.
  10. Should I run wires in flex tubing or any other type of insulation to avoid engine noise/interference? Any recs on wire? Battery is under passenger seat so I shouldn’t pick up any noise from the engine cavity.
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
61 - 76 of 76 Posts
daloudin
sonicbooms said:
Do you use a special charger to charge the AGM XS power battery? Is this really necessary when the alternator is charging all the batteries in parallel? Is it just for the initial install?
Click to expand...
No - and when I'm doing a long tuning session or GtG the charger I use is nothing special. This is the current version of the one I use and on 40A charge mode I've never had a problem.

www.harborfreight.com

2/10/40/200A 6/12V Automatic Battery Charger with Engine Jump Start

Amazing deals on this 2/10/40/200A 6/12V Auto Battery Charger at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
S
So is charging absolutely necessary? Just when the capacity gets low?
Reply
Save
Like
daloudin
sonicbooms said:
So is charging absolutely necessary? Just when the capacity gets low?
Click to expand...
The only time I use a charger is when I'm listening for more than an hour without the engine running.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
S
For making clean wire ends, do you like crimp-on ferrels or just tinning the wire with solder?

For adding lugs, I'm debating about the kind with set screws (and just using heat shrink over the set screw) or crimping and heatshrink. Not sure if I can trust the cheap 0 gauge crimpers on amazon.
Reply
Save
Like
daloudin
For big power wire I solder the terminal directly on to the wire but I have the proper tools and experience to do that without making a mess or burning up the wire.

Tinning wire is only appropriate for small gauge wire that's easily compressed by terminal or set screw connections.

So that leaves compression crimping and obviously you get what you pay for with tools. But, having said that, the difference between the tool required to crimp a copper or brass terminal and the one to crimp a stainless steel stain relief on tower guide wire is vastly different.

The fall back becomes high strand count ofc wire with high quality set screw terminals and when done correctly is good enough.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
  • Helpful
Reactions: 2
M
Nick_15_KL said:
Not yet, but that's next on my list for my 2017 Dodge Charger (same UConnect).

In my 2018 JGC I tried a Pac LoC first, then switched to a FiX-86. Neither gave me good sound due to the Factory EQ and Time Alignment. I spent 3 years trying to EQ and dumping money at shops around the state before ultimately trading it in on a new vehicle out of frustration. On my Charger I went with an AmpPro using the Toslink adapter hoping to not have the same issue. I can confidently say it's far better than the Pac and Fix, but still suffers from Factory EQ between 60-120hz and again above 10k. The sound of the AmpPro is far superior and cleaner than stock though.

The only reason I mentioned the Heigh10 is because it has a Toslink output and retains full factory control. There are a few other headunits out there that allow you to retain full control of your factory buttons, but I have not done the research so I cannot speak to those.

DSP Note: For ease of use and learning curve, the JL TuN software is very easy to use. MiniDSP is a touch more challenging but has more advanced filters. Helix has the steepest learning curve but can do the most. I cannot speak to the other brands.
Click to expand...
Would also adding a kicker keyloc in the system somewhere be a possible fix for the factory roll off? Seems there’s still a roll off or non equal frequency response even after using the amppro and toslink out ?
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
S
Thinking about NVX deadening as it claims it's the thickest and it's also priced well. 90 mil.

Any opinions on deadening manufacturers? Just saw Amazon has some that is even less expensive.
Reply
Save
Like
S
I can run the center speaker through the DSP and new amp while still retaining the voice, door chime, etc, in the center speaker, correct?

And then I adjust the volume of the door chime with the Pac menu, right?

Does it matter if the input is from the speaker wire or a digital signal from the optical? I'd like to run optical as the input for all channels if possible.
Reply
Save
Like
S
I'm thinking of building an amp rack with a rectangular piece of material, maybe 14" x 30". Wanting to do a matte grey - any ideas on material? Is there a better way to do this than using auto vinyl wrap?
Reply
Save
Like
S
Okay I drew up a diagram for you guys to laugh at and had some questions:

Do I have to run all the remote wires from each amp and the dsp through a distribution box and to the head unit?

If I run optical to the dsp, do I only have run one set of RCAs (stereo L/R) to each amp? And of course only the mono rca channels to the mono amp.

Colorfulness Rectangle Font Screenshot Parallel
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
daloudin
sonicbooms said:
Thinking about NVX deadening as it claims it's the thickest and it's also priced well. 90 mil.

Any opinions on deadening manufacturers? Just saw Amazon has some that is even less expensive.
Click to expand...
Deadener is like most things... you get what you pay for and do it right the 1st time.

Flat packs are better than rolls.

Understanding the concept and what does what is key.

Resonix is the best and Nick has published the process of how to properly deaden a vehicle.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
daloudin
sonicbooms said:
I can run the center speaker through the DSP and new amp while still retaining the voice, door chime, etc, in the center speaker, correct?

And then I adjust the volume of the door chime with the Pac menu, right?

Does it matter if the input is from the speaker wire or a digital signal from the optical? I'd like to run optical as the input for all channels if possible.
Click to expand...
The Pac unit digital output downmixes all Chimes, GPS, cell phone and anything else to 2 channel stereo. You then have control over relative volume in the Pac interface and have to use your DSP to then create a mix for the center channel.

High level you need to input the original center and 1:1 the output.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
daloudin
sonicbooms said:
I'm thinking of building an amp rack with a rectangular piece of material, maybe 14" x 30". Wanting to do a matte grey - any ideas on material? Is there a better way to do this than using auto vinyl wrap?
Click to expand...
I'm not the one to comment on finishing techniques - black automotive carpet or duratex or exohyde are my goto finishes.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
daloudin
sonicbooms said:
Okay I drew up a diagram for you guys to laugh at and had some questions:

Do I have to run all the remote wires from each amp and the dsp through a distribution box and to the head unit?

If I run optical to the dsp, do I only have run one set of RCAs (stereo L/R) to each amp? And of course only the mono rca channels to the mono amp.

View attachment 372052
Click to expand...
How you run the remote wire is not as important as making sure that you don't need a relay. As far as wiring goes, you can daisy chain or home run or spider (distribution block) as long as the HU supply is capable of feeding all of them... Find out what the current capacity of the remote wire is on your HU and how much each component sources and as long as the HU output is greater your golden. If it's close or questionable then fusing at the HU output level is an easy way to make sure you don't burn up the output.

Re: RCA cables - one cable per channel. Mono center and sub usually share a set of RCA stereo channels and then 2-ch amps get one set of stereo RCAs and 4-ch get 2 sets, 6-ch = 3 sets, etc. Unless your running custom made RCA cables and then it's 1:1 cable:channel.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
S
On your GC, did you use any spacers with the speakers? I plan on wrapping the bare metal with adhesive-backed foam, then possibly using spacers for further dampening and to also move the speakers closer to the grill. Would 1/2 inch fit?
Reply
Save
Like
daloudin
sonicbooms said:
On your GC, did you use any spacers with the speakers? I plan on wrapping the bare metal with adhesive-backed foam, then possibly using spacers for further dampening and to also move the speakers closer to the grill. Would 1/2 inch fit?
Click to expand...
No, my preference is to run some sort of coupling (foam rubber, ccf speaker rings, even weather stripping) rather than spacers (unless you need added depth or are switching from ovoid 6x9 to another size.)

BTW - no metal.

Look up the procedure on how to remove the inner door panel (the black nylon piece in the attached photo) as it is not for the faint of heart (you have to remove the window glass 1st...) make sure you put some kind of sealing tape on the access door in this panel cause if you don't the rattles will drive you crazy. And then look to at least do some basic deadening inside the door and also on the outside of the inner panel. If you make this plastic panel inert enough and then seal the speaker to the door card you will have much less panel resonance and rattles.
Hood Automotive tire Automotive design Motor vehicle Bumper


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
61 - 76 of 76 Posts
DIYMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum
A forum community dedicated to all mobile audio enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about capacitors, amplifiers, subwoofers, marine and automotive audio, troubleshooting, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Technical & Advanced Car Audio Discussion Car Audio Classifieds General Car Audio Discussion Build Logs & Project Install Gallery System Design: Help Me Choose Equipment For My Car
Top