[brett]

Hey guys, so it's that time for the build to start. I had my 2011 JGC Overland for about a year and half and that whole time I couldn't quite figure out what to do and how to move forward. So, I just sat on gear and planned things out. I even went so far as to cut a bunch of metal behind the factory sub, but ended up trading it in.

I now have a 2018 JCG Altitude. My Overland had 3 accidents and just went over 100k mi back in the fall, so I figured it was time to let it go while it still had any shred of value. I ended up leasing this new Jeep, so my system will have to avoid too much cutting, or in areas where it's obvious just in case I don't end up purchasing at the end of the lease. I also opted out of 4x4 which allows me to go without a spare tire. Plus, 99% of my time is just commuting, etc, so road-side assistance should be there for me if that happens. So, with the spare out, I was able to actually move forward.

Now, any of you Jeep WK2 owners know that, aside from the spare tire area, there's actually very little room to do things. The passenger quarter panel where the factory sub is/was offers some space, but I'm trying to avoid that area now for ease of installation. I've been researching on here for the last few years and found the following build threads to be extremely helpful, so thanks to all for posting.


https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/412183-2019-jeep-grand-cherokee-sq-build.html

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/410303-2014-jeep-grand-cherokee-diesel-system-build.html

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/181641-aerospace-sq-2014-jeep-grand-cherokee-build-gladen-mosconi-illusion-audio.html

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/160723-2014-jeep-grand-cherokee-idmax-jl-audison.html

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/405113-2014-grand-cherokee-overland-install.html

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/414013-helix-director-fiio-m9-building-center-console-housing.html

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/415629-sealed-box-gb12s-2018-grand-cherokee.html

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/404897-new-build-2018-grand-cherokee.html

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/224713-bradknobs-14-grand-cherokee-limited-build.html

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/system-design-help-me-choose-equipment-my-car/373834-subwoofer-2018-jeep-grand-cherokee.html

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/169634-2013-srt-jeep-long-time-coming.html

 

[brett]

So far my gear consists of the following...

Source - digital, most likely iPhone using lossless files, yet to be purchased
H/U - factory 8.4 Uconnect system
DSP - RF 360.3
Amps - Soundstream Rubicon Nano; RN4.1400D (2), RN1.5000D
Sub(s) - Dayton Titanic MKIII 10" 4 ohm (3)
Midbass, Mid, Tweet - I have a few that I'll audition, nothing solid yet.
Distribution - Knukonceptz
Wiring - Knukonceptz, might make my own rca, undecided
Treatment - likely just use noico cld, and some reflectix for heat control, and mlv if it's in the budget.

... One of the reasons I wanted to get a newer Jeep was the 8.4 system. And, in the 2018 carplay comes standard. For a long time I wanted to integrate an iPad in my 2011, but I like a stationary design that looks factory. And, while I could've fabricated something, the truth is that the Phoenix weather would not allow me to keep it installed without damaging it. Plus, I'd need some sort of control unit for volume and I wasn't stoked about it being so bright at night. It just never felt right and fell into place, so the 8.4 checked off alot of boxes for me. I've not yet purchased the iPhone, but I'm looking at a higher capacity phone so I can send lossless files via carplay. This just seems like the path of least resistance and will still offer quality signal. I also bought this adapter ...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ISO-SOT-2050-j-Cable-for-iO-Play-2-Talk-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-14/322455863490?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


... so that it will give me an in-between (duplicate) harness that I can tap into the factory speaker wires without having to cut any factory wires. This will then feed into the RF 360.3, but I'll need to get the 5 w 47 ohm resistors for the load sensing on the H/U.

For amps, I had been looking for a long time and the Soundstream was something I wanted to try. They had great form factor/size, ratings seemed good (likely over-rated, but acceptable) and they fit my budget. I wish I could've gone with something higher end, but it's just not feasible at this time. So, we'll see how these amps perform before checking out anything else.

I've had these three Dayton subs for a while now and they worked well in my last system. I wanted to sell/trade these for a 15", but didn't get any bites. I still may go this route in the future, but for now, this is what I have. It also works out well because the depth of the box might be too shallow for most 15's at this point. I had them in a sealed box before, getting appx 1cf per each, which may have actually been a little on the large size. It worked well, but lacked output below about 30hz or so. I was hoping to do a vented enclosure, but winisd is suggesting a box about 4-5 cf for a tuning frequency in the 20s. I could tune it a little higher and my box size can be cut down to appx 3cf and the output graph still looked better than sealed. Anyway, this will happen soon, so take a look at what I've started with and give me any suggestions please!

 

[brett]

I finally started building in the spare tire area. I'm trying to maximize as much space as possible. This is forcing me to cut pieces that are odd. I've had to cut templates out of frozen pizza boxes to help me out. I'm trying to do all of this on my apartment patio with very limited space and basic tools.

 

[brett]

.... my notepad has lots of drawings at this point!

 

[brett]

I'm really burning calories when I have to carry this thing from the patio, through the apartment, down the hall and back into my Jeep for intermittent fitment. And, it's getting heavier each time! Thankfully the weather in Phoenix has been unseasonably cool, making it a perfect time to do this.

 

[chithead]

Congrats on the new Jeep! Those Altitude look soooo good with the blacked out trim and emblems. Very nice choice!

Are you just looking to swap out some of the factory stuff and keep it relatively stock in appearance?

 

[brett]

Congrats on the new Jeep! Those Altitude look soooo good with the blacked out trim and emblems. Very nice choice!

Are you just looking to swap out some of the factory stuff and keep it relatively stock in appearance?

Thanks man, I really like the Altitude package as well. Kinda wish I could've done the High Altitude or Limited X, but just wasn't in the budget.

I mean, yes, for the most part. I'm really just trying to avoid having to cut anything that is not easily replaceable. I'm going to play around with the stock mid location. The tweeter will stay where it is, but I'm either going to put the mid in the pillar with the midbass in the door, or the mid in the door and build kicks for the midbass. Still undecided on this one.

Also, for other WK2 owners, that spare tire area is deeper toward the front than toward the rear. So, building this thing out of rectangles was not really the best option and I kinda was looking for a challenge!

 

[DavidRam]

Damn good work so far! I'm in for more...

 

[chithead]

I really admire that fabrication work you did. Very cool work with all those complex shapes and angles.

Man, putting midrange in the door locations crossed my mind too. Especially a nice 4" or 5.25" and then stuff an 8" in the kicks or under the seats.

Do you have the empty storage area under the driver's seat since you don't have the Overland now?

 

[brett]

I really admire that fabrication work you did. Very cool work with all those complex shapes and angles.

Man, putting midrange in the door locations crossed my mind too. Especially a nice 4" or 5.25" and then stuff an 8" in the kicks or under the seats.

Do you have the empty storage area under the driver's seat since you don't have the Overland now?

Thanks man, there are quite a few odd angles and shapes on this piece. I don't have a table saw, so using the circular saw for 90% of the cuts and then jig for the rest. The angles mate up pretty well, and where there was small gaps, I filled with glue and smashed some sawdust in there pretty tight.

You know, I think it's really going to come down to a trial/error situation. I have some 5" mids that I want to try and use, so the door makes sense. This effectively eliminates the need for me to worry about too many rattles. If I have to build kicks, which I'm leaning toward, then I don't mind cutting a little bit of metal that will never be noticed by the dealer and buying some spare kick panels to modify. I was thinking of doing at least some 8's, maybe dual 8's if I can fit them and vent them.

There is a spot under the driver that is wide open and I'm not sure if I want to put my dsp down there or maybe another sub. It could easily fit a 10, which I have a few other options for. Passenger side, as you know, has the battery, so no go there.

 

[brett]

Damn good work so far! I'm in for more...

Thanks man, as you know I've used your thread for quite a bit of inspiration seeing as how we have the same Jeep.

 

[DavidRam]

Thanks man, as you know I've used your thread for quite a bit of inspiration seeing as how we have the same Jeep.

Like, the EXACT same Jeep! Lol

 

[brett]

Like, the EXACT same Jeep! Lol

Yes sir, or at least to start with. You've made awesome progress on yours btw. I really like the stance of yours after the lowering springs/spacers and I'd love to do the same to mine, but I'll probably wait until my lease is up before doing that. If I decide to keep this thing, then that's where all the fun fabrication begins. I'd likely cut the metal below the spare extending that area and likely cut behind the factory sub area like I did in my previous Jeep. But, for now, it's going to have to be minimal modification.

I've not tested any spots yet, but where are you WK2 owners finding the best ground location?

 

[brett]

another weekend, another round of progress pics. it's starting to get hot in phoenix, finally, and my southwest facing patio has not only become too small, but is now super hot, so it's becoming very frustrating to work. but, it's a labor of love, right?

i swear, i spend more time just staring at this project going over all the ways i could/should build it and lay it out than actually building it. i'm such a perfectionist when it comes to system lay out. for the reasons already stated i really wanted to keep the whole system in one spot making it easier to remove and retrofit into another jeep should i give this one up at the end of the lease. i strongly considered moving all electronics to the quarter panel area where the factory sub would be, but i wanted to have immediate access to controls and fuses. i could've fabricated something, but it involves more time and cost. so, i settled on an orientation similar to my original staging idea with the amps near the seats.

because i'm also a sucker for clean wiring and symmetry, i spent hours just arranging the components in ways that might work. i know im going to push these amps and i know they're going to get hot. so, i really wanted to incorporate some fans. ideally i'd like to have been able to put the fans on the heat sinks in a side-firing push/pull configuration, but there was not enough room on the sides or top. so, i got the crazy idea to cool them from below.

because the footprint of the dsp couldn't fit up top, there was only one place for it; under the amps as well. which means, they'll go under the fans too. i didn't get to the point of mounting it yet, but the pieces are cut and it will just barely fit. and, because i'll need access to the dsp, potentially the fans if one fails, and also the other wiring like relays that will be down there, this whole section of the amp rack is hinged so that it will swing up giving me access to all these components. if you've not noticed, i tend to make things more difficult than need be, but damn if i don't love the challenge!

i busted out my new router for the first time and did some plunge-routes for the fan openings by hand. they turned out ok. i also wanted to make things more professional in this install, so im trying out some threaded inserts. i bought a bunch of brass ones at lowes, but im still 'auditioning' options, so let me know what you guys use.

 

[brett]

and here's where i left off. hopefully you can see how it will be laid out in my drawing. up top there will be power distribution which will feed a blue sea systems distro for all the small things. then to each side i have a barrier strip, which are 10 spots each. this helps keep things symmetrical because i can send midbass, mid and tweet signals out and the remaining lugs can bring signal back from the head unit to feed the dsp. so far, this idea makes sense, but we'll see how it ends up working out.

 

[DavidRam]

Yes sir, or at least to start with. You've made awesome progress on yours btw. I really like the stance of yours after the lowering springs/spacers and I'd love to do the same to mine, but I'll probably wait until my lease is up before doing that. If I decide to keep this thing, then that's where all the fun fabrication begins. I'd likely cut the metal below the spare extending that area and likely cut behind the factory sub area like I did in my previous Jeep. But, for now, it's going to have to be minimal modification.

I've not tested any spots yet, but where are you WK2 owners finding the best ground location?

Thanks!

I grounded to the body on the driver side, behind the wheel well under that plastic cubby... Drilled a hole and sanded the paint away on both sides.

You are taking that AZ sun and heat seriously, huh?! Lookin' great, man!

 

[brett]

Thanks!

I grounded to the body on the driver side, behind the wheel well under that plastic cubby... Drilled a hole and sanded the paint away on both sides.

You are taking that AZ sun and heat seriously, huh?! Lookin' great, man!

thanks dude, and yes I am. I even tossed around the idea of incorporating a peltier device, but have never used one and I'd be concerned about potential condensation issues. the heat is real out here man and i figure it's better to err on the safe side, you know?

 

[chithead]

That is awesome work my friend!!!

 

[brett]

That is awesome work my friend!!!

thanks dude!

 

[DavidRam]

thanks dude, and yes I am. I even tossed around the idea of incorporating a peltier device, but have never used one and I'd be concerned about potential condensation issues. the heat is real out here man and i figure it's better to err on the safe side, you know?

I'd never heard of that and had to Google it... Kinda neat