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thanks man, much appreciated. this is just the lease version, if/when i decide to buy this out, i have already started planning the next version. because i'm a sucker for never ending builds, that's why.
You would be surprised how many leased vehicles I have tore the shit out of and then handed in :). Just make it look stock if you hand it back. They will never look under carpet or panels (y).

Ge0
 

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also considering these tweets


i currently have the following to experiment with...


if you've not noticed a theme, it's that i can't quite afford what i want and i'd consider others, but honestly there's some good options in that list. believe it or not, the celestion mids are surprisingly good. i'll probably have to make baffles for each of these and test them all in the doors, and potentially in the pillars. still, any thoughts on doing two mids in each door?
I still own a set of RS100's that I used in a past install. Love them for the $$$. They have been sitting in boxes for at least 5 years. Maybe I will find a use for them some day.

Ge0
 

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I still own a set of RS100's that I used in a past install. Love them for the $$$. They have been sitting in boxes for at least 5 years. Maybe I will find a use for them some day.

Remember, for the most part there are only subtle differences between similar drivers. 80% of how they sound in your car has to do with the install. Take care there and you can achieve excellent results on the cheap. Your speakers don't need to ribbit to sound good :).

Ge0
 

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I had a JGC Overland. I didn't have empty spaces under my seats. Those cavities were Filled with Battery and ECU's. I didn't want to give up my spare. So, I mounted a 500W Zapco mono Sub amp in the left size cargo area and installed a JL Audio Stealth box on the right side. That 10" Stealth box hammered pretty good.

Ge0
 

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I have 8’s in my GC doors. I have 1 rattle at a specific freq on the drivers side that I need to track down (sounds like the inside door handle). The factory plastic panel is pretty rigid and noise free, it’s the door card that will like to buzz unless treated with butyl, tesa tape, and ccf.
That being said, I’d prefer to have them in kicks but didn’t want to cut metal to make for an IB install. I’ve seen that on a GC around here...
I saw a Cherokee build where they made little right angle triangle braces to “shore up” the speaker mount basket. They just drilled a bunch of holes in the door plastic and the triangle wedge and epoxied it or JB welded it. Seems like a good way to add rigidity.

The stereo shop that did my initial install put 2 5.25’s in the 6x9 hole and cut up my basket to make it fit. “Sealed it” with MLV, asshats! I had to “repair” that by epoxying 1/4” ABS on both ends of the 6x9 hole. Then I put more ABS around the 6” sides of the hole so my 8” rings would seal. Ugly, but it works...

Don't fuss about that too much. Nobody see's the hack job with the door panel on. Just make sure it sounds good. Clear up those minor rattles and add some foam. Oh, BTW, put some closed cell weather stripping gasket around the mounting ring of that midbass.

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #146
i've hit a snag; the whole system is in and connected. for some reason the high level inputs into my rf360.3 isn't turning it on appropriately. it does come on, during last tests (it's hot af!), but it's not turning off. i've included the resistors in line so that the factory hu sees the appropriate resistance to turn on, but i don't believe it has the minimum voltage to appropriately turn the dsp on. so, do any of you wk2 owners know of a switch source that i can use for the remote-in?
 

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That sucks. I’m using an aftermarket deck and pulling the turn on lead from that. Wouldn’t any accessory switch power source work? Sure key there’s one, for the radio perhaps, under the hood in the fuse panel? My Jeeps not available currently or I’d take a look.
 

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Discussion Starter #148
well, see, that's the part i'm curious about. this is the only build i've retained oem hu, so i'm kinda learning the hard way i guess. i did some testing with my dmm last night, and checked things like the cigarette outlets and they appear to still draw current after the vehicle is off and accy power is off. i'm hoping to get some consistent testing done this weekend, but my biggest issue so far is that the dsp won't turn off and so i'm hoping to find a source that is switched off.
 

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Hopefully it was a slight of tongue, but you’re checking for voltage and not current correct? Cause DMM’s can only check for current in series with the device.

IIRC, the rear cargo cig lighter is only powered when on, but you can move the fuse 1 spot over to make it always on.

 

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Discussion Starter #150
i am by no means an expert at testing with a dmm, so there's every chance i may not be doing this correctly. however, i set it to 12v and it was reading a fairly constant voltage of 13-14 v. the dsp is under the driver's seat, so i was hoping for something a little closer than that. i'm really hoping i don't have to get a loc, because if that's the case, i'll just sell this dsp and get something newer like the audiocontrol units.
 

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You’re good, looking for 12-14 volts dc with the key in acc or run and it should drop to 0 when key is off. Your GC is a couple years newer than mine but I doubt they changed the rear cig outlet wiring. If it’s always getting 12v, swap the fuse over a position and see if that cuts it off when the key is off.

For something closer, there’s the cig lighter in the console under the armrest or the AC plugs in the back of the center console but probably not fun to tear that completely apart to get to the 12v signal. Easier to run a wire through the firewall from the fuse box!
 

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Discussion Starter #152
i actually dug into the console and tested the cig lighter and it was still getting 12v after it was off and door open. i'll try the rear one this weekend hopefully. i have no garage, and it's been 115 in phoenix recently, so the mornings are the only time i can realistically do any work and not die.
 

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But my brother says, “it’s not bad bro, it’s a dry heat!” Stay hydrated out there!

I’ll take 75 degrees with 50% humidity instead thank you very much
 

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Discussion Starter #154
ok, so i finally got this figured out. the 12v outlet in the armrest, as mentioned, was 12 constant so i couldn't use that. however the 12v outlet next to the usb inputs was switched, so i used that. but, after using that on the remote in, though it turned it on, the system still wouldn't turn off. so i tested the 12v outlet and, even after the car was off, it was seeing 2 volts which meant that somehow the 12v source from my amp rack, to the dsp, was somehow 'leaking' into the 12v output. i may not be explaining this well enough, sorry. so, i tried to disconnect that 12v source from the amp rack and sure enough, everything turned off. i then just used the 12v output from the console under the hu directly to power up the dsp, and bingo! everything works; turns on/off as it should. thank god that it is resolved.

now i need to do the setup on my 360.3, but my jeep doesn't have a cd player so i can't use the supplied setup disc. i normally just use my iphone as a source, so i'd like to keep using that, but i can't find the setup tracks on apple music. i thought about buying a usb cd player, but i'm not sure if that would work or even normalize the input from bluetooth/carplay. any suggestions on how to do the setup with no cd player especially if i'm using my phone as a source?
 

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Can you rip the tracks from the disc onto a computer as .wav or .flac and then transfer to your phone? Or put it on a usb drive, I forget what usb capability uconnect has.
 

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Discussion Starter #156
hey guys, i've started building kick panels. are there any recommendations for black vinyl that matches the interior color/texture of the jeep?
 
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