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thanks man, much appreciated. this is just the lease version, if/when i decide to buy this out, i have already started planning the next version. because i'm a sucker for never ending builds, that's why.
You would be surprised how many leased vehicles I have tore the shit out of and then handed in :). Just make it look stock if you hand it back. They will never look under carpet or panels (y).

Ge0
 

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also considering these tweets


i currently have the following to experiment with...


if you've not noticed a theme, it's that i can't quite afford what i want and i'd consider others, but honestly there's some good options in that list. believe it or not, the celestion mids are surprisingly good. i'll probably have to make baffles for each of these and test them all in the doors, and potentially in the pillars. still, any thoughts on doing two mids in each door?
I still own a set of RS100's that I used in a past install. Love them for the $$$. They have been sitting in boxes for at least 5 years. Maybe I will find a use for them some day.

Ge0
 

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I still own a set of RS100's that I used in a past install. Love them for the $$$. They have been sitting in boxes for at least 5 years. Maybe I will find a use for them some day.

Remember, for the most part there are only subtle differences between similar drivers. 80% of how they sound in your car has to do with the install. Take care there and you can achieve excellent results on the cheap. Your speakers don't need to ribbit to sound good :).

Ge0
 

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I had a JGC Overland. I didn't have empty spaces under my seats. Those cavities were Filled with Battery and ECU's. I didn't want to give up my spare. So, I mounted a 500W Zapco mono Sub amp in the left size cargo area and installed a JL Audio Stealth box on the right side. That 10" Stealth box hammered pretty good.

Ge0
 

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I have 8’s in my GC doors. I have 1 rattle at a specific freq on the drivers side that I need to track down (sounds like the inside door handle). The factory plastic panel is pretty rigid and noise free, it’s the door card that will like to buzz unless treated with butyl, tesa tape, and ccf.
That being said, I’d prefer to have them in kicks but didn’t want to cut metal to make for an IB install. I’ve seen that on a GC around here...
I saw a Cherokee build where they made little right angle triangle braces to “shore up” the speaker mount basket. They just drilled a bunch of holes in the door plastic and the triangle wedge and epoxied it or JB welded it. Seems like a good way to add rigidity.

The stereo shop that did my initial install put 2 5.25’s in the 6x9 hole and cut up my basket to make it fit. “Sealed it” with MLV, asshats! I had to “repair” that by epoxying 1/4” ABS on both ends of the 6x9 hole. Then I put more ABS around the 6” sides of the hole so my 8” rings would seal. Ugly, but it works...

Don't fuss about that too much. Nobody see's the hack job with the door panel on. Just make sure it sounds good. Clear up those minor rattles and add some foam. Oh, BTW, put some closed cell weather stripping gasket around the mounting ring of that midbass.

Ge0
 
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